Why do you think that your mildly amusing? you are really not!

I think you had a metallurgical failure, freeze at 23:51 where you have the two rod halves in hand. The bottom one, look at the split on the right; it comes in from the outside, and it's not shiny. Then it kind of crests, and there's an abrupt transition into shiny metal. That's a traveling fracture. Basically the rod broke in "greenstick" fashion and stretched enough while it was doing it to hammer the piston into the head.

I love how they considerately included a rebuild kit inside the oil pan for you. It's like a spare tire for your engine!

Almost died laughing when you reached into the bore and grabbed your 10mm socket through the hole in the block!

Based on the fact that the wrist pin is pristine, which it would not be had the piston failed first, my guess is going to be that the rod failed first. Not the bearing, *the rod*. I'd have to put the fragments under a magnifier to spot the fracture point, but I'm confident that the rod had to have failed first, and then the remainder of it bludgeoned the rest. This kind of failure was essentially unknown in engines of the past, but I see them happening more often as time goes on. I blame the engineers' reliance on materials perfection and the relentless drive for reduction in mass (with the goal of increased "efficiency") as the source of this tendency toward failures. As for why this specific engine failed, perhaps over-revving might have been involved,. but if the seminal failure point shows stairstepped fracturing, then the final-failure break could have taken place at almost any speed.

Water pump subtlety…your true gift Eric! We need a tragic water pump opera music suite. Great job Eric.

The waterpump removal...fu*king brutal...LOVED IT!

I've learned so much from this channel. This is by far, my most favorite channel ever.

‘Not fully hatched’ 😂

That was one of the most generously filled party pans we've seen!

Due to the lack of bore damage, that Conrod failed first. Piston to head contact is key here. Bearings are fine, no excessive wear on the wrist pin or bores. Only thing I can think of that could cause piston to head contact like that is rod stretch at high rpm. If that rod isn’t cast, hardened, and tempered properly, it may not have had the tensile strength to hold up long term to the stresses leading to a fatigue failure. Luckily cylinder 2 seems to be suffering a similar fate but stayed intact. It would be nice to see a closer look at it, and measure it to see if there’s any distortion in the rod itself.

Nothing like an order of piston nuggets with a side of wrist pin on a Saturday night

I have built/stripped engines for 50 years and I love watching you strip engines. Your production skills using time lapse are excellent integrating comments, love it. I also like reading the comments from the "desktop mechanics", they don't even know how obvious they are. Keep up the good videos!

I had one of those come in in a Range Rover Discovery Sport that died on the road I found a broken/ stretched Bolt that was meant to retain the Intake cam phaser to the camshaft, scoped all the cylinders, found no valve marks on the pistons and all the valves moved freely. All new timing set from Ford, plus the timing tool kit as there are no keyways holding the sprockets in time. Engine fired right up and the customer was happy we were able to save his engine for less than 20% of the Range Rover Dealer quote.

When the 3.5l EcoBoom blew at 19k miles on my 2013 F150, the bearing was perfect. I bought it brand new and always changed the oil religiously. Always used Amsoil in it. The rods Ford uses are weak. Think it’s the same rods used in a Briggs and Stratton.

So nice that Ford provides a spare parts container underneath the engine.

The crank turn was genius this week. Loved the view from the crankcase “window”

Having a good old time with blue! Great video for my Saturday night

I think it was a parts failure! I think the connecting rod failed first. Look at the way the rod fractured. Engine looks well maintained and no sign of coolant intrusion either!

the "Terminator " hammer and later the angle grinder to persuade the rod bolt, priceless!

I can’t imagine how the convo went in the ford engineering department when the new kid suggested keyless chain sprockets. Somehow he won the argument 🤯

When (if) a wrist pin deforms in ANY way, the piston stops pivoting on the pin & the piston from pin bore up gets yanked away from the bottom of the piston. This happened to the SuperStock AMXs back in the late 60s early 70s when the wrist pins went oval at high Rs (stock rods & cranks are forged steel, 8500 RPM capable). Fix was tool steel .200" wall pins. I got mine from JE for $200 in the previous century...

Ecoboost engine's make the most impressive sudden engine disassembly kits on the market!!!

18:11 This was priceless! I had to laugh - the milk almost squirted out the nose! Love this method of removing the water pump! Thanks for the laugh!!!

Nailed it! Every wrench turner laughed out loud when you "chased" the infamous 10mm deep well, LOL too good. Thanks.

The snap sound of torqued screws loosening is sooo satisfying, it's always the best part😂

Eric, you're just THE best man. I've been watching you for years. I never ever get tired of this.

Your content vibe is just right, keep it up

These videos come online mid-morning on Sundays for me, being in Australia, my weekly Church of Eric service, beats going to a real church.

I actually laughed when the oil pan came off.

It is hard to emphasize just how much fun it is, to watch you dissect these machines after they have retired from useful service!

Mystery blow up is usually high water and hydrolock. It can be over revving from time to time.

Looks like a fatigue issue or perhaps a flaw or void in the rod, and that perpetuated a crack that became a boom. In the days before rev-limiters, rods would let go by over-rev and do the same type of damage you have there.

Wow!!! Informative and entertaining. Always a pleasure to watch. Thank you, Eric and his team . keep it up

That's not an oil PAN. That's a pinyata.🎉😮

Just a slight crack on side 1 , a bit of jb weld ( and top ramen ) it'll be good as new 👌🏻

I would suggest doing a dye-pen or macro acid-etch of a cross section of the rods. Basically cut it in two, polish it up real nice, and look for cracks/porosity/metalurgical problems. Because metallurgy is the only way I can see something suddenly failing like that, short of hydrolock or something. Maybe the rods started to stretch over the years, and it struck the head hard enough to crack.

I don't think this was anything the owner did. Over-revving the engine is a possibility but modern engines have rev limiters that kick in to prevent this exact thing from happening. Sure it can be bypassed but that's only possible with a manual transmission and not a lot of cars have those these days. There's little if any evidence that points to neglect. Normally with neglect you see things like chewed up camshaft lobes, sludge buildup and the rod and/or main bearings will absolutely be smoked if the neglect was bad enough to cause total engine failure. Instead they're all in perfect condition even in the cylinder that grenaded itself. This leads me to my one and only remaining sound conclusion: that the engine blew up due to a factory defect. The way the rod broke (something I've never seen before) is what points to this. My theory is that the stress of normal engine use eventually exposed a weak point in the rod and caused it to break. With the rod broken, the piston struck the cylinder head causing it to break and shatter. The crank then pulled the shrapnel down with it causing it to saw its way through the engine block sending shrapnel and debris out the side and down into the oil pan.

Any chance of you recording the conversation between you and your tool vendor when you request a warranty on one of your tools? "Hey, it's a lifetime warranty, right? I'm still alive, ain't I?"

I am loving these modern Ford engines. Sure we are looking ones that have failed and been abused but Ford really makes great engines now. I love looking at the engineering.

Thank you so much for removing the water pump the correct way, by smashing it off... Whenever you get a engine with holes, water pumps need to be removed this way as it makes fantastic viewing... I really enjoy your videos and what you do... Thank you so much.

I'm guessing LSPI (low speed pre-ignition) that small GDI turbo engines have experienced. They call it super-knock. Premature ignition shattered the rod and lower piston allowing it to kiss the head on compression stroke. Cause could be as simple as wrong oil. This condition is why the API developed the SP classification and reduced the calcium content.

Split connecting rod shouldn't happen. Slight flaw in the material combined with 164,oo0 miles and a high rev equals equals boom.

Good update keep it up the good work 👍👍👍

LSPI from someone stepping on it and the tranny didn't downshift, or running too lean from an injector/fuel pump issue are one of the ways you can break a weak rod in am EcoBoost

The only thing besides a trashed rod bering I've seen that allows a piston to hit the head is trashed wrist pin bushings. If allowed to knock long enough they will hammer the piston to pieces. When the piston finally came apart the rod was free to fly around and destroy the block. Someone should have heard that knock they just ignored it.

Looks like the owner took very good care of that Escape. No carbon build up or oil sludge. And she still blew at 160K

Thanks for the Saturday Night Specials. 😃

There’s one mystery which remains unrevealed (unless I missed it…. =/). We all know the water pumps and chain guides end their days via rapid forced disassembly or binning, wrist pins have infinite life, but what happens to the cam drive chains? There’s always a compliment offered regarding their condition (uniformly excellent), then… nothing. They just… disappear… with nary a mention, nothing to see here. Everybody wants to know - what happens to the chains???

I never did like the modern 2.0L engines and you've shown us many examples of why I was right to avoid them. Many thanks for the entertainment!l

One of my old fleet 3.5 Ecoboost V6s ran low on oil (very quickly apparently) and did this. The driver said he turned it off immediately, got it back to find no holes in the block so we started taring it down to find 3 and 6 rod bearings bad, clearly a loss of oil issue, but interestingly the piston, wrist pin and about 1 inch of rod was up against the head in great shape, the rod had obliterated itself almost just like this between there and the crank.

The quincy of engines

Outstanding video.

Eric you seriously need a set of extractor sockets for some of these mutilated bolts!

As always, thanks for the Saturday night entertainment Eric.

You know when you said I can hear you now "But its still good" you've been tearing down Stuff since you where probably a lad, I think you probably know best what move's and what's good for scrap. Also every time I watch you remove a water pump I can hear someone in the comment's typing furiously "BUT IT'S STILL GOOD!" Yeah might Look good might have just been replaced less then 200 mile's ago.. you want a used water pump go get one from a pull a part place Probably won't cause they wouldn't trust it. Anyway Enjoy your content thank you Always making the weekend a little bit brighter!

I can help you out ecoboom for 2 main reasons: oil starvation and the other is heater hose connection randomly exiting the building.

Things I've never seen: 1. an engine without an exhaust manifold 2. Eric's tool box 3. Eric's timing chain collection 🤣

Thanks for your years of great narration of engine explosions/carnage Eric. You're so good at narrating the carnage in an interesting and humorous way, I think the History Channel should have you narate some of their war history documentaries. And whenever WWIII blows up the Earth, I would love to see you narate that too. 🤣🤣 You the man! Side note-Love the lesson about the front pulley and timing tools as I've seen this happen way too often in the shop with used engine installs.

Love your channel! I turned wrenches for 40 years. Made ASE Master Tech with L1 cert plus Master gasoline engine machinist. One solitary piece of advice for you my brother. Stop using more extension length than the minimum required. The longer the extension the more force required to turn bolts. Also applies when torquing bolts. Lose the LONG extensions!’

Thank you for another video

14:42 the slit you're referring to was phased in as part of a new block design with an open deck in 2015-17, along with a new head casting and the twin-scroll turbo; casting code for that block is FB5Z (accordingto Tasca Parts' website, though according to that same website the new block casting was phased in BEFORE The twin scroll engine came online for some applications). The block for this engine (and by extension all of the 'early' 2.0L EcoBoosts) is casting code AG9Z (again, per Tasca Parts' website). As an aside, the Focus ST never received the FB5Z block (or the twin scroll turbo engine as a whole, at least not for the North American market). There's a TSB for the twin scroll engines for coolant intrusion for cars made up to about mid-April 2019 IIRC. Ford says to replace the long block if coolant intrusion is found. No official word on what the problem was, but some of the comments I've seen on social media (admittedly not a great source) have speculated that the issue is excessive porosity in the block AND head castings, which would explain why Ford says to replace the engine as a whole. A new long block from Ford is apparently priced very attractively, FWIW. The coolant intrusion issue sometimes affects early 2.0L engines but it's hit or miss, again according to social media; the aforementioned TSB actually DID mention the 15-16 Fusions when it was originally issued, but it was revised two weeks later to remove those cars from the affected vehicle list; I don't recall if the early 3G Escapes were listed in it.

Yes, the rod failed, here's what I think factory defect, it fragged when the piston was on it's way up allowing the piston to hit the head

You forgot to mention you gained three new engine stand bolts from this! You've also convinced me that they need to start making the entire engine out of wrist pin. We'd never have another engine failure.

That was most impressive Eric. You get your hands on some dandy cores!

Door #3 is AWESOME

Due to coriolis force in the northern hemisphere, you should always turn your engines over clockwise, seen from the accessory end of the engine. That is why they spin this way, with the exception of some odd Honda engines.

Gotta say. First time I’ve seen Uncle Rodney before the engine teardown. Mans was hammered😂

The only thing I can think of for a cause is that connecting rod on #4 had an "inclusion" in the steel. Combine that with the mileage and you end up with a fatigue failure and they kept on driving in spite of the clattering it was making.

Gives a whole new meaning to cylinder cut out

Air hammer in tool list for water pump replacement, I learn stuff every day.

In the old days, when engines were first being designed, an engineer was looking at an old camera and decided to honor cameras and cameramen by designing an engine part that later became known as a wrist pin. And this is why the wrist pin never dies!

I always enjoy your videos. You make me laugh. Not fully hatched😂😂😂

I don't work on cars or in the industry. But, I watch a lot of videos on these types of things. My theory, from my armchair, is a metal fatigue / imperfection. Unless there is a way where FOD can enter the engine, IDK any other way this can fail.

Yes another tear down god damn I love this place 💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯

It's summer. Ventilated seats are all the rage & apparently engines wants to be aired too. Thanks for the entertainment.

Enjoy your teardowns.

Thank you for going the extra mile to look at that rod bearing. my opinion, the piston broke, the rod was intact. it looked like the pin was still in the rod from looking at the damage just below the cylinder. Why another piston would hit the head is a mystery?

AHHHH! You RUINED that maincap by grinding on it. I was going to get that, the tensioners, guides and timing chains along with the bearings and water pump.... JEEEEEEZ!!!

Nice inspectionports!

When I worked at a Ford Garage, had a 5.4 throw a rod, tore it down and I couldn't figure out why it threw a rod either, bearings were great, same with the cams, timing components were great, 2 valve so no phasers. I can only suspect it was some manufacturing issue.

Yes!

Your love for water pumps is apparent

"If you take the crank pulley off, you have to retime it!" Heavens forbid they index the crank pulley and have timing marks...

love this content

Best channel on YT!

I love this channel!!

For having 160,000 miles it looks surprisingly clean so it clearly received all its oil changes and then some...likely a freak metal fatigue issue...likely had it to the floor and it let go...

Thanks for another great video Eric, a Ford Hatchimal🤣(not fully hatched on one side). Was it a manual and suffered an incorrect down shift? Could possibly account for the piston to head contact before cylinder4 exiting the chat 😂, I've seen it on Mercedes V6 diesels before in the ambulance service until they switched to autos 👍 looking forward to next week's video 👍

Wrist-pins rarely die, they just get launched into the great unknown... And of course this all happened while idling at a stoplight on a Sunday afternoon trip to the grocery store.

I have seen this type of failure onec previously on a non turbo engine. The cause in that engine was transmission went into reverse while vechile moving ar unknown forward speed. In thar engine there did not appear to be any piston to head contact. A very interesting tear down.

That is the most brutal water pump removal to date! I wanna say this motor was over reved.

I was watching another one of your videos when this showed up

At the shop that I work at, I replaced 2 2.0 and 1 1.5. One of the 2.0 and the 1.5 the #2 piston left the chat, and there was no knocking to my surprise, just a misfire and no compression

The subtle way Eric uses to loosen the oil pump sproket nut...

That's impressive.

If you put the corner of the filter cartridge in a vice, you can peel the metal ends off. Works for me and safe

3:20 - the infamous piston delete feature!

We're so happy thta our 2020 Connect 2.0L GDI is NOT the 2.0L ecoboost system... So from what I've heard these eco's do not have clear passage through the block and heads as to allow for proper coolant flow.

I think that the broken rod had a flaw put in it when it was made, as indicated by the split. Instead of pushing the piston up while connected to the wrist pin, it pushed up on the skirt instead and pushed into the head, where it broke apart, falling into the block. This is a material failure, not anything else, in my humble and not expert opinion.