Jason Williams Greetings Jason Williams....You are Welcome, my Friend...............(while Hearing a Really LOUD "Marching Band Playing", off in the distance, and getting...ever...So...CLOSER...to where Ur at)...I say..."Congratulations"...for, not only, Do-in a...Job...Well Done, but also, for..."Finding" that "Gremlin", that was "Hiding" in its "Cave", in the first place...!!!...lol (well, the Cave, that I'm referring to is)..."Inside Your Distributor", where One of Us Humans, just won't be able to See "it" (the "Gremlin", be-in Your "Pick-Up Coil"), unless, we happen to "Remove", the Distributor Cap, first, that is...!!!...lol...................................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...there are many, did I say MANY...Turns of...Small Gauge/Very Thin...Wire...Coil Windings...that are Wrapped Around, what, shall I say, could be Compared to, something like, that, of a, good, Ole School..."Sewing (pronounced...So-ing...lol) Machine's"..."Bobbin"...but instead of "Wire", that there Sewing Machine's "Bobbin", will probably have...Many Turns of..."Thread"... Wound Around "it", that will Leave You in "Stitches"...Ooops...rather the Clothing, Drapes, etc., will be Left in "Stitches", well, after the, oh, I guess that, the Person, Who actually did the Sewing Machine Work/Operating, and maybe, just maybe, has really Earned the "Title", be-in, that of..."Seamstress"...perhaps...???.......................Were You able to see, or determine, what-ever it was, that made Your "Pick-Up Coil" (Hmmmm..."Pick-Up Coil"...in a..."Pick-Up Truck"...???...kinda has a certain "Ring" to it, don't-cha-think"...???...lol)...oh darn, I done lost my "Train of Though" (yet again...!!!...lol)..."All Aboard"...???...lol...seriously now, was it one or more, of the Pick-Up Coil's "Wire Windings", that "Broke"...or..."Shorted-Out"...or, perhaps, it had something to do with, where the Larger Wires (terminated at one end, with that Plastic Connector), but, what I'm Thinkin', at the moment, is on the End, Opposite, of that Plastic Connector..."Where" those (usually 2)..."Larger Gauge Wires"..."Make a Connection"..to, both, the..."Starting and Ending Points"...of those...Many Turns, of, Very Fine/Small Gauge "Wire", that are Wrapped Around, Our so-called "Bobbin", if You will...???............................................On the Older...(No On-Board Computer)..."V-8 HEI Distributors", that had the Ignition Coil Mounted, in the Top of the Distributor Cap, along with Ignition Timing Advance Weights & Springs (inside), that also had, a "Vacuum Advance Canister", mounted to the Distributor Body, and, when-ever the "Vacuum Advance Unit/Canister", was "Actuated", by Increasing, and Decreasing, Engine Manifold "Vacuum", the Vacuum Advance Unit's/Canister's..."Actuating"..."Rod/Linkage"...would..."Turn/Move"...the...Outer 8 Triangles of the..."Pole Piece"...that Also Turned the "Pick-Up Coil", at the very Same Time, and, by doing so, those Larger Gauge Wires, that were Connected to the actual Pick-Up Coil (Bobbin), would..."Flex/Move"...every Time, that the Vacuum Advance Unit/Canister..."Was Operating/Moving"...which, was..."One More Thing"...to be "Aware-of"...on the..."Ignition/Coil, in the Distributor/Cap..."HEI Models"..."Just in Case"...!!! (Damn...to lol, or not to lol...that is the question)...lol......................................Bottom line...."No Signal"...or, an..."Intermittent Signal"...from the..."Pick-up Coil"...can really Mess Things Up, and, make for..."Not such a Good day, after all...so..."Have Yourself a Nice (aka, Good) Day", my Friend, and.......Till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings...Big Boy............Thanks for watching..............Well, maybe some day, I will make a Fast Food/Drive-Thru version, on how to Ohms (resistance) Test, this, remotely mounted, type of HEI/High Energy Ignition, Ignition Coil, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

This is intermediate to advanced stuff, your average wrench turner will not be looking for this info. The few of us that are looking for this information, already know all of he stuff that you go on and on a outs I have to agree with the previous reply. Get to the point!! I’m sorry but I cannot sit through the whole video I’m tuning our. I only listened to you for the time it took me to write this comment

ya i think i aged fucking ten years dude,

Big Boy holy fuck no kiddding

Im half way trough the agony, I have to endure till the end because I'm broke as a joke.

I took my coil off and tested it, went bought a new one , and installed, der.

Greetings...Josh Pierce...……..You're welcome, and, thanks for the nice comment, and for, watching too...…….Here's some more information, about this type of ignition coil...……..Those four little "Slots", are not, four separate connection points, but rather, there are really, only, two connection points, that go into, the ignition coil's, primary coil of wire...……..The first two slots (might be across from each other, I'll have to re-check), are directly connected to each other, and the other two slots, are connected directly to each other as well (as far as my ohm meter was tellin' me, that is)...…….It was probably done this way, to make the wiring and connections easier...…...One connector (that, has two wires), goes to the ignition coil, and, the other connector (that also has, two wires as well), goes from the ignition coil, to the ignition control module...…….So, once I had a closer look, as to, what was really goin' on, I now see, why, the designers/engineers, did it this way...…….Even though, an automotive type of ignition coil, might test within specifications (ohm-wise), while it is at room temperature there-abouts, then, there might come a time, where, an ignition coil, might start acting, not so good, once it gets up to operating temperature, or, perhaps hotter, as in, misfiring cylinders, loss of power, while under a load, etc....just so Ya know...…..and...….till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

The customers truck I was working on had a issue with the vehicle misfiring on one cylinder. Everything was traced back to the distributor contacts or ignition coil. This particular situation ended up being bad contact on distributor and when the ignition coil heated up it was failing causing misfire. A lot of times it’s one or the other but not this time!

Maybe?...but time is valuable and when we need information, we need it quickly.

Same as my 03 s10 they changed them in 1996 to what you and I have, I'm still trying to figure out how to test it I get confused lol.

@@msh4281 The two outer prongs should have an ohm reading of between 0.5 and 2, that's your primary winding. The middle prong and negative post is the secondary winding and if it reads 0 it's bad. Is how mine was, and why I came across this video.

Jason Williams Greetings Jason Williams....Thanks for the Great comment, for watching, and for Your question as well............................Hang on, just a minute please, as I go looking for that "Crystal Ball" of mine (theme music from the Game Show, "Jeopardy", can be heard, playing in the background, as I do so)..............Oh darn, I just remembered, that, I sent "it" out, for "Cleaning and Polishing", as it was getting kinda "Hay-zee" lookin', where-by, I was finding it rather difficult, to actually "See", what was go-in on...!!!...lol....................................................So then, I guess, that I'll just have to "Wing-it", for the time being.................Now then, You happen to have a "Rapid Fluctuating"..."Meter/Multi-Meter"...that at times, is..."Displaying"..."Dancing Digital Numbers"...or...are You lookin' at, an Old School Meter, that has a..."Needle/Pointer"...that..."Waves at You"...just like a..."Happy Dog"...does, when the..."Pooches Master"...comes back Home, after being absent, for quite some time perhaps...???...lol................................Alright already, that's it for "Fun Time", lettuce, now, try to figure-out what's go-in on, shall we..............First off, did You..."Disconnect"..."All"...of the..."Wiring/Connectors"...that were..."Connected"...to Your..."Ignition Coil"..."Before"...You..."Connected"...Your "Ohm-Meter"...to Your Ignition Coil's..."Terminals/Connection points...???...as, there is a possibility, that, "if"...???...any "Wiring/Connectors" are still "Connected to", just about any Ignition Coil out there, then, as I see it, those "Still Connected Wires/Connectors", just might be..."Adding-In"...some of..."Their Own"..."Electrical Interference"...maybe...???............................Try "Testing" Your Ohm-Meter, all by its "Lonesome" (aka, by Itself, and "Not Connected" to Your Ignition Coil, at this time)...........All You have to do, is..."Connect the Two Probes" (usually one Red one, and, one Black one)..."Together"...while having Your..."Ohm-Meter's"..."Dial/Selector"...on the..."Low Ohms"..."Range/Scale" (0 to 200 Ohms Maybe...???)...that will give You the..."Best Resolution/Read-out"...for, the..."Low Ohms, Coil Windings Test"...my Friend, as by doing so, You'll be able to see, if Your "Ohm-Meter", happens to be the "Culprit" or not (as in, "if", Your Ohm-Meter..."Behaves Itself"...while Not being Connected to Your Ignition Coil, then, that be that)..............................Also, while You're at it, pay close attention, to Your Ohm-Meter's "Display-Numbers", while Your Ohm-Meter is on the "Low Range/Scale", when doing the "Connect-the-Two-Probes-Together"..."Routine"...as by doing so, You'll be able to actually see, if there happens to be, a "Miss-Calibration" of sorts, and, if so...???...Your "Low Ohms, Coil Windings Test"...Won't be all that "Accurate" at all...!!!..........................My, Yellow, Ohm-Meter/Multi-Meter, that You see, in this KZfaq Video of mine, as I recall, had a "Miss-Calibration "Total", of about .3-Ohms, while the "Range/Scale Selector/Dial", was placed in its "Lowest Position", being..."0 to 200 Ohms", and, my Yellow Multimeter's "Test Leads, including the Probes at the ends of them", pretty much, accounted for .2 Ohms, and, I figure that, that Yellow Multi-Meter of mine, had about .1 Ohm, of "Miss-Calibration", all by Itself, without the Test Leads being Connected to "it"...!!!............................This, so called "Miss-Calibration" (ohm-meter and test leads, Wire Thickness and Length as well), is only "Important", while doing the "Low Ohms Test", from an "Accurate Measurement" standpoint, as Compared to that "High Ohms Test", where that "Miniscule" (aka, very tiny) amount of Miss-Calibration, doesn't really have to be considered at all, seeing as how, we are now dealing in, the, Many "Thousands of Ohms"............."If"...You, happen to See, an..."Ohms Miss-Calibration"... on Your Ohm/Multi-Meter, then, You'll have to..."Subtract" that "Amount" (in Ohms/Partial Ohms, and having the Decimal Point, in the Correct Position as well), From, the Reading that You got, while doing the "Low Ohms Test", on that Ignition Coil of Yours ....................There are times, quite "Rarely", where some "Ignition Coils"...might..."Not Work so Well"...and maybe..."Stop Working All-Together"...when these, so called..."Faulty Ignition Coils"...Warm-Up to..."Operating Temperature" (or, maybe even Hotter, perhaps), even though, the..."Low & High Ohms Tests"...happen to be..."With-in Specifications"...and, if so, the Average Joe, should just try, Installing, a known..."Good"..."Ignition Coil"...and..."if"...the...Problem..."Diss-Appears"...then..."Problem Solved"...!!!...................What Year and Make of Vehicle do You happen to have there, and, what are the "Patient's" (Your Vehicle...lol)..."Symptoms"...???...as, the more that I know, about the Problem/Problems that You are having, the more, that I'll be able to help You Narrow-Down, that, or those Problems, with, or, for You............................So then, that's about all there is for now, and, if You care to, You can let me know, how You're makin' out...................If, You're in need of any more help at all, just give me a "SHOUT"...lol...and, I'll do what I can, to, help You..."Git-er-Done"..............Till next time............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

RockysRoadshow Thanks for the reply. I am working on a 1994 GMC Sierra 1500 truck. The truck sat for over a year, but I would start it and run it a few times a year. About two weeks ago it died while I was revving the engine. I checked to make sure it was getting fuel to the throttle body, which it was. I then checked for spark and none was found. The first part I checked was the Ignition control Module. The part store said it was bad, so I purchased a new one. still no spark. I then purchase a new distributor cap, rotor, and spark plugs mainly because they were shot. Now as far as the multi-meter is concerned. It is a digital type of meter and I did the calibration test as you show in your video. It gave a reading of .01. When I tested the coil it was unplugged from the wiring and then I also tested it again after removing it from the truck entirely. Both readings did the same on the low side. The next item I am testing is the pick-up coil inside the distributor. I am at a loss trying to figure this truck out, so any help is greatly appreciated.

Jason Williams Greetings Jason Williams....Lettuce see now...........All of the Wiring, to Your Ignition Coil was "Diss-Connected", yet, while Testing the "Primary Coil Windings", in Your Ignition Coil, while having Your Ohm-Meter on the "Lowest Range/Scale", was Displaying, a, shall we say, "An-om-oh-lee", that appears to be, some-what, "Ghost-like", so..."Who-You-Gonna-Call"...???.............."Ghost-Busters"...!!!...lol...............................Well, in all my years, I haven't come across, an Ignition Coil, that was able to make the Numbers on a Digital Ohm-Meter, or, even the Needle Pointer, on an Analogue, Ohm-Meter, Wave Frantically, as the "Dancing Numbers" on Your Ohm-Meter were do-in...!!!........................Both, the older, "Oil-Filled", and the some-what, newer, "Epoxy-filled", Ignition Coils, really, only have, "2 Separate Coil Windings" (having many turns of wire-windings) contained with-in "Them", as a completed Unit, and, about the only thing, that I can think of, is, perhaps, Your particular Ohm-Meter, might just be a bit different, from, most others out there maybe...???............................You might try, Your Ohm-Meter, on a few Different Ranges/Scales (using the Dial Selector), while Testing the "Low Ohms, Primary Coil Windings", in Your Ignition Coil, and, also, if You are able to get a hold of, a "Different" Ohm-Meter, You can hook that One up, and see if that Other Ohm-Meter "Behaves", as Yours was do-in.................................Might be, that, the Ignition Coil, that You have there, could be "Faulty", perhaps...???...........................Did You actually..."Visually"..."Verify"...that...there..."Is-Not Any Spark"...???..............What I do, is, just "Remove" One Spark Plug, then, once removed, re-install, that spark plug Lead/Wire, back on top of it/to it, and, take a length of 14 Gauge, copper house wire, oh, about, 6 inches long, there-abouts, and wrap a few turns of it, around the spark plug's Screw-Threads, then, the other end, of that copper wire, gets secured to a good, Engine "Ground", or the vehicle's Frame, or Body "Ground", to Complete the electrical Circuit.........................Then, have Another Person, Crank the Engine-over, while I watch, that Spark Plug, that I was just tellin' You about, for any Evidence of "Spark", or, lack-there-of.......................It's even better, and easier, to "See a Spark" (if there is One, that is...lol), if, the Vehicle is parked in a some-what, darkened, Shade-ee area, but, Not-So-Dark, that makes it "Un-Safe", for the Person, that's near the Vehicle's Engine Compartment...!!!........................Always have, plenty of Fresh Air and Ventilation, around a Vehicle, when-ever the "Engine Is Running", as...the..."Exhaust Fumes"...coming..."Out of the Vehicle's Exhaust Pipe/s"..."Is Deadly"...!!!....................................Sometimes, Fuel Related Problems, can Act, just like Ignition Related Problems, and, Vise-ah-Versa, as I've found out, quite a few times...............................Although, You were sayin', that, Your Throttle Body (Injectors in a "TBI", or "Throttle Body Injection" Unit), appeared to be "Discharging", some "Air/Fuel Mixture", into Your Intake Manifold, and, that, You were sayin', that, Your Engine "Died", as You were "Rev-in-it-Up", has me thinkin' that, Your, "Pick-Em-Up-Trucks"..."Fuel Pressure", is a bit on the "Low Side", perhaps, of what the "Fuel Pressure", should be, as per "Specifications", for Your "Exact" Vehicle, or, there might be, a "Restriction", in the Fuel Supply System, somewhere, perhaps, as in, something like a Plugged-Up, Fuel Filter...???...................Always "Safely"..."Bleed-Off", any "Fuel Pressure"..."Before"...."Disconnecting"..."Any Fuel System Parts"...and..."Wear Eye and Face Protection"...!!!...........................For that (2-Barrel, I think?)..."TBI", type of Fuel Injection System, that You were describing, would probably have a "Fuel Pressure", of about..."13-PSI" (Pounds per Square Inch) there-abouts...but..."Always Check/Verify the Specifications", for Your "Exact Vehicle and Engine"...!!!........................"Beware"...!!!...If You ever "Replace" Your, "In-The-Gas-Tank-Electric-Fuel-Pump", there are Other Fuel Pumps, that, just might look the Same, but, put out "Over 50 PSI of Fuel Pressure"...!!!...Yikes...!!!.............................2 Things, should usually be Done, from the get-go, for most "Fuel Injected" Vehicles out there, and, those 2-Things are......................"Scan the Vehicle's On-Board Computer for Trouble Codes"...and..."Check/Verify, the Vehicle's Fuel Pressure", to actually See, if the Fuel Pressure, falls with-in, the "Exact Specifications", for the Vehicle in question, or, like, I usually be sayin', about this time, is, to Avoid "Going On a Wild Goose Chase"...!!!...lol...........................If You haven't already, it would be a good idea, to Install a "Complete Set", of, Spark Plug..."Leads/Wires"...as, in the past, I had some of those Leads/Wires, cause some "Bad, Engine Running Problems"...!!!............................When-ever Installing an "Ignition Module", into a Distributor, make sure that, the Surface, that It gets Mounted to, is, Clean, and Make Sure, that, You, Smear, some "Heat Transfer, Paste/Goop", on the Bottom of the Ignition Module, or, "it' will probably "Over-Heat", and go "Kaput"...!!! (as in, Non-Functional any more).............................There are so many "Things" to consider, but, I'll end here, for the time being, and............Till next time..................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

in a gillzillion years i hav never seen anyone put anything under any ign module, ''ever''

Greetings...ken hart..........Thanks for watching..........Maybe, see if you can find (or buy?), a Factory..."Chassis Service Manual"...for your "Exact" vehicle & engine, as, I've found them to be very good (well, in the past, they sure were).........On most of the H.E.I. (High Energy Ignition) ignition coils, that I've ohms (resistance) tested in the past, usually had about, from just over 0/Zero ohms, to no higher than about 1 ohm, when measuring the Primary side..........Then, on the Secondary side, then, it will usually be measured in, the Thousands of Ohms..........See if you can find the Low & High Ohms "Specifications", for your "Exact" ignition coil, so you'll actually know whether or not, that, you are within the Specifications for that particular ignition coil.........Here's one for Ya....although an ignition coil Ohm's Tested "with-in" its Specifications, when "cool" (as in temperature), then, there are (rare?) times, where an ignition coil might not work very well, when it gets heated-up to operating temperature............There are about 100 turns (ball-park figure), of "very fine" wire, on the secondary side of the ignition coil, for about every 1 turn, of the much thicker wire, that usually makes up the Primary coil of wire, inside of the ignition coil (as far as I recall, that is).........I hope the above helps you out...........Good luck, and.......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings Barry Redman....Thanks for watching, and, for Your Auto-Ranging Information as well....Yeah, I know about those "Auto-Ranging" Multi-Meters, and, for the most part, they are the "Cats-Meow" (aka, Superb), when it comes to Measuring an Electrical Circuit, without adding in the "Mistakes", that can, and do happen, sometimes, when a "Non-Auto-Ranging" Multi-Meter, happens to get "Read or Interpreted", using the Wrong Range/Scale, as well as, sometimes Placing the "Decimal Point" in the Wrong Place, in that String of Digits!...lol....I'm thinking, that of "All" of the People, that have "Any" Type of Meter/Multi-Meter, as in "Analogue" (the kind that has a Needle/Pointer, that "Waves" at You!...lol), as well as the "Digital" Type, that Only shows "Numbers and Decimal Points" on their "Displays", will, for the most part, "Not Be" an "Auto-Ranging" Type of Meter/Multi-Meter! For those that "Do Have" an "Auto-Ranging"Type of Meter/Multi-Meter, they sure Do have a much better chance at, getting it Right the First Time, simply because of the "Auto-Ranging" Type of Meter/Multimeter "Sensing" the actual Electrical "Circuit" being "Tested", and, "Displaying" the (I Hope), Correct...Range, Volts, Amp's, Ohm's, Polarity, Numbers, Decimal Point Location, etc. If You take a Look at the "Yellow Multi-Meter", that I use in this Video, as well as, some of my Other Videos, that I use this same Yellow Multi-Meter in, "Close-Up", You should be able to See, that it's "Not", Your Usual, shall we say "Generic" Multi-Meter!...say what??? This Yellow Multi-Meter of mine, is "Specifically" Made for "Automotive" Electrical "Circuit & Component Testing!" I will start at the "12-Oh-Clock" Position, and Turn it "Clock-wise" (aka, Analogue, like a Clock with the Arms!...lol) on my Yellow Multi-Meter's Selection Dial, and tell You the "Different Things" that it's Capable of... ...(please note, that the following "Oh-Clocks" are Approximate!)... 12-Oh-Clock = OFF 1 to about 2 Oh Clock = DC Volts with "4" Different Ranges. 2 to 4 Oh-Clock = Ohm's with "5" Different Ranges. 4 to 5 Oh-Clock = Diode Checker with Audible (aka, Beep!...lol) Alarm (should indicate both, Open and Shorted Diodes, when said Diode, is checked in both Directions), and, it will also Indicate a Circuit or Wire with "Good Continuity" if it has "Low Resistance" as well. 5 to 7 Oh-Clock = DC Amp's with 3 Ranges. 7 to 8 Oh-Clock = Temperature, if "Optional Probe" is Purchased! 8 to 9:30 Oh-Clock = Tachometer (aka, Engine Crankshaft Revolutions Per Minute) with "4" Ranges & can Measure RPM's of Engines that are not already on any of the Ranges, with a Different Number of Cylinders, if the Available "Ranges" are "Multiples" of the Number of Cylinders, in the Engine, that is to be Tested & the required Mathematics that has to be done, to get the Correct RPM's as well. 9:30 to 11 Oh-Clock = Dwell, with 4 Ranges....I usually use the Dwell Scale for setting the good ole "Points & Condenser" Type of Distributor's "Dwell" (aka, the amount of Degrees, that the "Points" stay "Closed", when Actuated by the "Lobes"on the "Cam", that is on the Distributor's "Shaft"). ...and, last, but not least, is... 11 to 12 Oh-Clock = Duty Cycle, just a Fancy name for, an Electrical Device's "ON" Time, as Compared to its "OFF Time, "Expressed in %", kinda like, if someone was "Flicking a Homes "Light Switch"..."ON & OFF". Now then, although my good ole Yellow Multi-Meter "Is Not" able to do the "Disco" (aka, Auto-Range), it most certainly, will "Win", the "Dance Category" of... ..."SLOW DANCE!!!"...lol. Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

+Moh Laz Greetings Moh Laz....Thanks for Your great comment, and, Happy New Year, to You, and Your Family.............................When You were saying, that You had..."No Spark"...and, just how did You come to that conclusion...???............................Seeing as how You were saying, that, Your Engine Started and Ran, for 20 s (20 Seconds perhaps...???) the first time, then, after that, Your Engine Cranks-over, but will not start, can be caused by a Fuel (system) Problem, or, as You were saying, it might be an Ignition (system) no-spark Problem.......................Assuming that Your Engine has good enough Compression, in all of its Cylinders, then, Here's what I'd probably do......................Make sure that, Your Vehicle is...On Level Ground...Parking/Emergency Brake is On...Engine is Cold and Not Running...and, also, when-ever the Engine is Running, make sure that, there is Lots of Fresh Air and Ventilation around Your Vehicle, cuz, Exhaust Gas is Deadly...!!!...and, have a Fire Extinguisher, close by, just in case (and I hope not)..................................Is there Gasoline, in Your Gas Tank...???....and..."Oil in Your Engine"...???............................If Your Engine has (computer controlled) Throttle Body Injection (kinda looks like a Carburetor, some-what), I would remove the Air Cleaner Housing's Lid, and, with the little squirt bottle, that I have, that has a small amount of Gasoline in it, I would Squirt, oh, about 2 or 3 Table Spoonfuls, of Gasoline, into each of the Throttle Bores, just Under those (usually) 2 Fuel Injectors, then, Re-Install, and Secure, the Air Cleaner Housing's Lid...............Then, try to Start the Engine...........If the Engine sounds like it is trying to Fire-Up/Run some-what, then, I would be thinkin', that, it just might be a Fuel System Problem....................If the Engine (and hopefully, it's not really Flooded with Gasoline), Does-Not, try to Start at all, then, I would probably be, having a closer look at the Ignition System........................You can Listen, to Hear, whether or not, Your, In-the-Gas-Tank, Electric Fuel Pump, is actually tying to work, by doing the following....................First, Check the Fuses, in Your Vehicle's Fuse Box/Panel, to make sure, that One or more of them, Didn't "Blow" (aka, self destruct), as a result, of an Electrical Circuit Over-Load or Short Circuit.........................Then, if the Fuses are ok, then, it has to be very Quiet, so You'll be able to Hear, Your Electric, in-the-Gas-Tank...Fuel Pump, if it does actually try to make some Noise........................Usually, when-ever turning-on the Ignition Key, the Electric Fuel Pump (in most cases, and, depending on the actual fuel system's design), will usually "Prime", the Fuel System, with Fuel Pressure, as in, make the Electric Fuel Pump Run, for, oh, about 2 Seconds, then stop......................Turn Off the Ignition Key, and, just wait about 1 Minute, and turn On the Ignition Key, and, the Electric Fuel Pump, should, do the Prime/Run, for about 2 seconds, routine, each time, that You wait, and try again, but, will only be making some noise, if it is actually trying to work, and also, it still has to provide enough Fuel Pressure, oh, about 13 PSI/Pounds per square Inch, for a Throttle Body/looks kinda like a Carburetor, Fuel Injection System/Unit...........................To Test for Spark, have the Engine Cold and Not Running, and remove one of the Spark Plugs, and, wrap a piece of Wire, around the spark plug's Screw Threads, and secure the other end of the Wire, to a good, safe, Engine Ground...then...crank the engine over, and see, if there is a strong, healthy-looking Spark, showing between that Spark Plug's Electrodes................See any Spark at all...???..........................Make sure, that, Your Spark Plugs, are the "Exact Ones", for Your Engine, and also, Check the spark plug's "Gap", between the Electrodes, and, if they are the Adjustable type, Gap them to "Specifications"...........Fuel Filter "Changed", not all that long ago...???...cuz, a Plugged-Up Fuel Filter, can Starve the Engine for Gasoline, and if really plugged-up, has been known to cause an Electric Fuel Pump, to Burn-itself-Out...!!!...Yikes...!!!........................There are 2 Things, that really should be done, for a Gasoline, Computer Controlled, Fuel Injected Vehicle/Engine..................The Vehicle's Computer, needs to be Checked, for any Trouble Codes, that might be Stored, in the Computer's Memory......................Lettuce see now, 1987 Chevy/Chevrolet S-10 (Pick-Up or Blazer...???....and the Durango name, is usually a Dodge, I believe...lol)......................The 1987 Chevy/Chevrolet S-10, would probably be, OBD-1, as in, an, On Board Diagnostic/s Version 1, Computer System in it, and, usually, on a Chevy or GMC Vehicle, that I've worked on, would usually, have a 12 Terminal Connector, under the Dashboard, and, near the steering wheel, where I connect, 2 of those terminals together, with a short jumper wire/short piece of copper wire, "Before", I turn On the Ignition Key, but, Make Sure that, the "CORRECT 2 Terminals", get Connected Together, cuz, if not, maybe..."POOF"... goes the Vehicle's, On-Board Computer, and that, my Friend, can be Very Expensive to Fix...!!! (please note...from what I recall, some, of the Vehicle's, having GMC, as the Parent Company, might Not Use this 12 Terminal Connector, to Display the OBD-1 Trouble Codes, so, always Check, before proceeding...!!!)........................Once, the 2 Correct Terminals are Connected Together, then, I just turn-on the Ignition Key, and Watch the Light on the Dashboard, "Flash", a wanna be, Morse Code Signal, that will usually Repeat, each of the Trouble Codes (if there are any, that is), 3 Times each..........................For example, if there Are-Not, any Trouble Codes, Stored in Memory, I will usually, Only see, the Code 12, repeat itself, which is just tellin' me, that I'm in Diagnostic Mode, without any Trouble Codes at all.......................I see...1 Flash...pause...2 Flashes.....then, just repeats.........................If there are, any trouble codes, Stored in Memory, then, it usually, starts with Code 12...then, just count the Flash/s...pause...Flash/s...for that, 2 Number, Trouble Code, or Codes, as the case may be, and, each of these Trouble Codes (if present), will usually repeat 3 Times, then, move onto, any more Trouble Codes, if, there happens to be, any more, that is, and once, all of the stored trouble codes, get displayed, it should all end, with a Code 12 (then, will usually, keep repeating all over again), then, once all of those, (if any...???), Trouble Codes, are written down/recorded, just turn off the Ignition Key, and Remove that, 2 Terminal, Jumper-Wire........................Once the Trouble Codes are known, disregarding the "Code-12", then, it's just a matter of "Looking-Up", what the Trouble Codes actually mean, and, for OBD-1, those Trouble Codes, will sometimes, just give a General Area, or Circuit/System, to start looking at, as compared to, oh, about a 1996 Vehicle or Newer, which will usually have, an...OBD-2...On-Board, Computer System in it, that is usually, much more Specific, with the Trouble Code Information, but, "Does" require, the use of a Scan-Tool (kinda, looks like, a slightly larger, hand held Calculator).......................So, perhaps, Check for those, Trouble Codes (if any...???), and, Make Sure, that, You Use the "Correct Method", for Your "Exact Vehicle", to get them...!!!.......................Also, Your Fuel System "Pressure", should be Checked, with a Fuel Pressure "Gauge", so You'll know, that, there is, High Enough "Fuel Pressure", for Your Fuel Injectors, to work Properly, and as they should..................Always..."Wear Safety Glasses/Goggles...for Safety's sake...to Protect Your Eyes/Vision...!!!........................If You care to, You can let me know, how You're Makin' out, and...........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

thank you very much sir, you are very professional, I am investigating and I promise to tell you if I discover and solve the trouble thanks again for all

holy fuck, the gift of gab

Greetings cablemodemtech....Thanks for your comment....Ah yes, "Pin-Point-Accuracy", as you have indicated in your comment, well done....But, as for these good old Ignition Coils, they really aren't that fussy at all.....All that is required, is, to have both the "Primary Coil", and the "Secondary Coil", that is contained within the Ignition Coil in question, have "Both" of the Ohm's Readings (resistance), fall "Within" the "Specifications" for the Ignition Coil that is being Tested....Even if an Ignition Coil, Tests OK (as in Ohm's Specs), that happens to be, what I would like to call a "Preliminary" Test Only....Why you ask?....There are times, usually quite Rarely, that an Ignition Coil, and even some Electrical Devices, and, Electronic Devices, can, and will Act-Up, and start behaving strangely, or, not at all, when they "Heat Up", as in, warm up to Operating Temperature....Kinda like a Miss-Behaving "Thermistor" (Thermal Resistor), that Magically changes its Resistance when it is subjected to Temperature changes....All is well when that Thermistor is in perfect operational condition, but, like other things, it refuses to do its Job, when it goes Kaput! (non-functional). Thanks again, for your very accurate observation, my Friend. Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

RockysRoadshow still 8030 - 0.3 = 8029.7. Don’t know why all this long reply. Just admit you’ve made a mistake mister. This video is a total waste of everyone’s time

Greetings...sorakillswitchx.......Thanks for watching........So, you say that the secondary ohms/resistance is twice the amount, and, here's what I'm thinking.........Is you multi-meter on the correct dial setting and range?........Are your ignition coil's wiring connectors "disconnected" from the coil?...(if not, then, it might interfere with the actual reading)......Is your coil factory/stock, or is it an aftermarket one? (could be, that, it might be a high performance or other type), and, if it is, then, you'll have to find the specifications for that "exact" ignition coil.......It's also possible, that, the secondary windings, might have a slight short, that will show up as, a higher than normal, ohms/resistance reading........I hope this helps you out, and.....till next time......be safe, take care, and have a good one.

@@RockysRoadshow thanks! Multimeter was good, the ignition coil was removed completely, it was the original coil (never replaced it) I replaced it already

TheScrotus Greetings TheScrotus....Thanks for watching, and for, Your comment/question/s as well...............................It looks like that Mini-Van, in Your Thumbnail picture, appears to be, oh, 1994 or Older, judging, by what I'm seein' on that Mini-Van's, Front End/Grill Design, and, has me wonderin', if Your Engine, has that "2 Barrel-Throttle Body-Injection Unit, or, is it that good ole, "Single Injector, with those 6 Poppet Nozzles", type of Fuel Injection Unit ...???....................................Now then, as for Your Engine's "Ignition Coil"................................If You are able to find out the "Ohms Specifications" (as in the Ohms Specifications, for the Primary and Secondary, Coil Windings, inside Your Ignition Coil), for Your "Exact Ignition Coil", all the better, I say, in order to "Make Sure" that, You have the "Exact Specifications" to go by, rather than, just a Ball-Park Figure, which, as I see it, is just a "Guess-tim-a-Shun" at best..............................At the moment, I, myself, haven't actually seen, any Specifications, for the Ignition Coil, that You Saw in this KZfaq Video of mine, so, I did the "Ohm Testing", on this, good ole Ignition Coil of mine, just a short while ago, and, here is what I was Seeing, on my Yellow, Automotive Specific, Multi-Meter's "Display", as I did those "Ohm's Tests"......................................On the "Primary", Low Ohms Side, I was getting .4 Ohms, when I was probing those 4 Small rectangular openings, in most of the "Possible Combinations", with the exception of a couple of them, where I was seeing Zero Ohms/No Resistance, and, make sure that, You Check Your Multi-Meter's "Calibration", while doing the "Low Ohm's Test", or, the Ohm Reading, will probably be Indicating "Higher" then it "Really is"...!!! (my Yellow Multi-Meter & the two Test leads Show .3 Ohms, when I Connect the two Alligator Clips "Together", while Having the Ohms "Scale/Range", set to 200 Ohms, on my Yellow Multi-Meter, and this .3 Ohms, has to be "Subtracted From" the Ohms readings, that I was seeing on my Multi-Meter's Display/Readout, while Testing, the Low Ohms, Primary Coil Windings...or else...!!!...lol)..................Now, for the "Secondary" (High Voltage) Coil Windings....................I was getting 8.06 Ohms, while my Multi-Meter was on the 20K-Scale/Range (8,060 Ohms), while I had One Alligator Clip, Connected to that Metal Terminal, that the High Voltage Lead/Wire Connects to, that also Connects, to the Center Terminal, on the Distributor Cap as well, and also, I got the Same Ohm Reading, while Probing "All Four" small rectangular openings, connection points as well...............................Most of the Epoxy Filled Ignition Coils, that I've worked with, usually had a "Primary/Low Voltage Side"....Ohms Reading, of...Just Over..."0/Zero Ohms"...to no more then, about 1 Ohm, having All Wiring "Disconnected From it"...................................The "Secondary/High Voltage Side", Ohms Readings, as far as I recall, can be about as high as, oh, about 30,000 Ohms, and might be, as low as 2,000 or 6,000 Ohms, and like I was sayin' earlier, about, just "How Important", those "Ohms Specifications", actually are, for the..."Exact Ignition Coil"...that You are Ohms Testing, at any given time...!!!...Yikes...!!!...lol.....................Sometimes, Faulty Ignition Coils, when Heated Up to Operating Temperature or Higher, while operating, can at times/rarely, become, Not Working so good, or, maybe Not at all, as in, Ignition Misfires, and one that You'll probably hear quite often, and that is, No Power Under (engine) Load, or, even have an Engine, quit running, possibly..........................With Your Engine "Cold and Not Running", Disconnect the Battery Voltage, Ignition Circuit, Supply Wire, from Your Ignition Coil, and hook up a Volt Meter's, Red Test Lead, to that Wire/Connector, and, the Black, Test Lead, to a good Vehicle Ground, then, turn Your Key, to the "Run"..."Not Start"...position (Engine Not Running)...and see, if You are getting around 12 Volts, at the Wire, just to be sure, that Your Ignition Coil, is actually getting, the Battery Voltage, that it Needs, so it can give Your Engine, those Strong Sparks, at the Spark Plugs, to make some really good Power, and, Fuel Economy too.......................................If You have that rather Small Distributor Cap, with that really "Small Carbon Button", inside of it, they are (use Your own cuss word here...lol), and that Little Carbon Button, might only last about 6 Months, (if You're lucky, that is...lol), before they Wear Out Completely, and cause all kinds of Engine running Problems, as I have experienced in the past............................Also, if Your spark plug "Leads/Wires", are quite old/have lots of miles on "Them", they can also, cause, Ignition related, Engine running Problems, as I've experienced, as well.......................Have You had a look at Your Engine's Spark Plugs Lately...???....to see if they are almost as good as new, and are "Gap-ed" to Specifications as well...???...........................So, there You have it, for now that is, and....................Till next time......................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

94 Safari TBI. New mercruiser engine. New wires and plugs, cap and rotor. It was the coil. It was intermittent and was testing good. I was getting a surging when at part throttle. It popped in the exhaust once and I stopped driving it. Hooked a plug wire and plug to the coil and cranked it. I got a spark color that changed in a pattern matching the surging. Changed the coil. Runs like a dream now.

TheScrotus Greetings TheScrotus....Good to hear, that You were able to Solve, Your Not so good, Engine Running Problem, and, You didn't require a Mortgage, in order to Pay for it...lol...................................Thanks, for letting me know, how You were sayin', that, even though Your Faulty Ignition Coil, Tested alright Ohms-wise, that, that Faulty Ignition Coil, was the "Culprit", that was Responsible, for causin', that Surging, at Part Throttle, as, sometimes, some of these Faulty Ignition Coils, can Change, shall we call them "Personalities" perhaps...???...lol...when they are asked to Start Working/Warming Up, as opposed to Not Working, and being at, a some-what Cool Temperature, when-ever they are being Ohms-Tested...................................Good job, on Your "Spark Testing Method", and, actually being able to "See", that, Not so good Spark Color/Pattern, on that One Spark Plug, during Your Test....................................Sometimes, to Test for an Intermittent Spark, I just hook up my Timing Light's, Inductive/Clamp-like Sensor, on each spark plug Lead/Wire, as close to the Exhaust Manifold, as I can get it, with-out getting so close, that, I don't Melt, that, Timing Light's, Plastic, Sensor/Clamp....................................Not, that I will be Seeing any Sparks at all, but, at least, I'll be able to have a pretty good Idea, that, a High Voltage Pulse, is making its way, to where my Timing Light's Sensor/Clamp is..................................I have actually Seen, some rather, Erratic/Inconsistent, Flashes, from my Timing Light, on a V-6 Engine, using the Test, with my Timing Light, alright...!!!........................Mercruiser Engine You say (I'm thinkin'...Very Tough & Durable, Boat Engine, alright...!!!)...................Hmmmm....I remember a Friend of mine, some years ago, that got a hold of a 283 Chevy V-8 Marine Engine, to install, in His 1956 Chevy, and, I'm pretty sure, that, He was sayin', that, His Newly Acquired, 283 V-8 Marine Engine (back then), had a Stronger/Beefier, Bottom End in it..........................Stronger/Tougher, Industrial Strength, Crankshaft Bearings, and, maybe a Crankshaft, with Larger Main & Con-Rod Journals, as well, perhaps...???..............................If You have that Small Distributor Cap, with that really Wimpy/Tiny, Carbon Button, Inside of it, always Remember, to have a Look-See at "it", Quite Often, as, once that Spring Loaded, Wimpy Carbon "Wears-Out/Gets Way Too Short"...All Kinds of Ignition Related..."Gremlins"...might start Happening...!!!.......................Congrats, and enjoy, Your, Running, Really Well Again...Engine...............................Till next time............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings...wisco..........Thanks for watching..........It's a good thing that you asked a few questions first, as opposed to, just, shall we say, "going for it" (so to speak).........(please)..."Don't run the ignition coil's Negative wire, to an electrical Ground"...!!!...or, just like you were sayin', that, the ignition coil will probably Melt...well, more like Over-Heat itself, and get ruined/destroyed..........Yes, you are right, about the pink (or red) wire, being the (12 volt battery) "positive", and the white (or maybe, slightly grayish) wire, being the "negative"...........The "2-Slots", nearest to, the single round high voltage Output terminal (that, being the one, that the spark plug-like wire gets pushed onto, that will usually be made out of, either aluminum or brass...metal), will be the "positive" (pink or red wire slot/s)...where-as, the "2-Slots" (connection points), furthest away from, that, good ole high voltage output terminal, will be the "negative" (white, or maybe gray-ish wire possibly)..........If you shine a flashlight, down into the middle gap, of those 4 recessed connection points, you will probably be seeing a + (plus sign), which indicate the 2 Positive connection points (you know, those 2-Slots, that are closest to the high voltage output, shall we call it, a "tower" maybe)..........The "2 Positive" slots are linked together (not electrically separate), and so are, the "2 Negative" slots as well...........I believe, that, these extra "2-Slots" (1 extra, being positive, and the other extra slot, being negative), was incorporated into the ignition coil's design, to make the ignition system's "wiring circuit" somewhat simpler (Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...just snap in the "2 Connectors", usually with 4 wires/total, and Yur done...cool huh)..........These remotely mounted H.E.I. (High Energy Ignition) Coils, will usually have an "ignition control module" (sometimes, along with a vehicle's on-board computer), switching the electrical "Ground" circuit..."On and Off"...faster than you can Blink (an eye)...as in, time, being measured in "miliseconds", and that be...one thousandths, of one second (time-wise), or, just count to "1,000" in "One Second"...!!! (super fast huh)...oh, and, it only takes, maybe, 1 to 3 milliseconds there-abouts, for an ignition coil, to charge up (saturate), before it goes (high voltage)..."Zap"...!!! (goes Zap, when the electrical Ground, goes Open circuit/not connected)...........Automotive ignition coils, can't take too many amps of electricity for very long (as in, too many milliseconds of charge-up/saturation time) , or, they will probably just overheat and quit...........So then, Ya have to have the "Exact" (correct) ignition coil, for the "exact" ignition system (circuit) in question, or maybe, a weak spark, at the spark plugs may result, or maybe, the poor ole ignition coil will get too hot, and destroy itself possibly.............If you are getting battery voltage (12 volts), at the pink wire, while it's "disconnected" from the ignition coil, when the key is in the Run position, then, that's a good thing, and is one less thing, that you'll have to deal with...........If you can tell me about your vehicle, as in...Year...make...model...type of engine/size of it/number of cylinders...etc., then, I will probably be able to help you out, much, much more, and.......till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings...CB Carper.........Thanks for watching........The "negative", or - side, on this type of ignition coil, might be, a white wire, or maybe, possibly gray colored (at the connection point, on the ignition coil itself)........The "red" or "pink-ish" colored wires, are usually, the +/or positive, 12 volt, battery voltage wires...!!! (to be safe, use a volt-meter, and test for voltage, at the ignition coil's wiring, with the engine "not running", then, place (turn), the ignition key, to the "Run"...not...Start position...!!!)........This type of ignition coil, seems kinda weird, by having 4 connection points on it, where-as, most of the older, oil filled ignition coils, only had, 2 primary/low ohms, terminals........When looking at this 4 terminal ignition coil, with the two wiring connectors, installed onto it, then, the two red or pink-ish colored wires, are connected together, inside of the ignition coil (as in, internally, where you can't see it), and, the white or gray wires, are also connected together, inside of the ignition coil as well........It kinda, looks like, the vehicle manufacturer, made this 4 terminal (on the outside of it), style of ignition coil (which, really, only has, the common, 2 terminals, on the inside of it), for the reason, that, they, would be able to connect, the "2" separate, wiring connectors/harnesses, side-by-side, right onto, the ignition coil itself (in electrical/electrician's speak, this electrical terminal design, is sometimes known as, a..."convenience terminal", or, convenience terminals, as the case may be).........Be aware, that, some tachometers, might not work properly, with an HEI (High Energy Ignition) distributor/coil.........Sometimes, Ya can get em to work, if a "tach filter", is installed, on the wire, that leads to the tachometer (I've actually seen, this, tach/tachometer "filter", on a wiring diagram, in a book, some time ago)........Hopefully, you will have some (printed-on-paper) instructions, that usually comes with the tachometer, and, if so, read it very carefully, so, the tachometer, doesn't get "damaged"...!!! (if need be, look for some wiring diagrams, on the tachometer manufacturer's "website", well, if they have one, that is).........Good luck, and.......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings...Trevor Clapsadle.............Thanks for watching............Well, the following, will hopefully, help You out some-what, and will probably, Only Apply, to this "Exact Type" of, Factory/GMC/Chevy, remotely mounted, HEI/High Energy Ignition coil, that is seen in this KZfaq Video of mine (Always check, the Ohms Specifications, for a Performance, and/or, After-Market ignition coil, cuz, there can be, all kinds of, Different ignition coil, Ohms-Specifications, depending on, just what, that particular, ignition coil Manufacturer decided upon, and, it has to be the Correct ignition coil, for that Exact ignition system/circuit, or, if not, the result might be, an engine, that runs poorly, or doesn't wanna start, and, hopefully, an engine, that doesn't sustain any damage as well)..............Always make sure, that, You "Check" Your Multi-Meter's "Calibration"...on the Low Ohms Scale (200 Ohms?)..."Before"...Ohms-Testing, the Low ohms/Primary (ignition coil) Windings, cuz, my Multi-Meter, has a Miss-Calibration of .3 Ohms total (my Multi-Meter itself, is out by .1 Ohm, and the two Test Leads/Wires, add another .2 Ohms, and, when those two numbers are added together, then, that equals .3 Ohms/Total, which is what I get, when I touch the two tips, of the test probes together), and, when I test the Low Ohms/Primary coil Windings, I have to Subtract, that .3 Ohms Miss-Calibration, from the Ohm Reading, that's showing, on the Multi-Meter's Display/Screen, in order to be "Accurate", cuz, other-wise, the test reading, might appear to be, Not with-in Specifications, and possibly, making a Good ignition coil, appear to be, Not-so-Good, in some cases............Those 4 Slots/connections, on this HEI ignition coil, actually have, two of those Slots/connections, connected together "Internally", as in "2 Pairs", and, each of those two pairs, are Parallel, to the sheet metal Laminations...........When Ohms-Testing, the Primary, Low Ohms coil Windings, just keep the Multi-Meter's "Probes", inside of, one of the "Ovals" (raised plastic Line, and, when ohms-testing, each of those Ovals, they should both, show the same ohm reading), while having the Multi-Meter, set on the Low ohms Scale (200 ohms?), and don't forget, to account for, the Multi-Meter's "Miss-Calibration", if applicable, that is.............Then, for the ignition coil's, Secondary, High Ohms, ignition coil Windings, I set the Range, on my Multi-Meter to 20-K (20,000 Ohms), and then, just connect, one Multi-Meter Probe/or Alligator Clip, to the Secondary (spark plug wire) Terminal (aluminum or brass), and the other Probe/with the T-Pin, into, any one, of those 4 Slots/connections (You can do All 4 of them, one at a time), and You should see the same Ohm reading, on the Multi-Meter...........See if You can find, the Specifications, for Your "Exact", make and model of ignition coil, for the sake, of being Accurate.............I just Ohms-Tested, two of these (used) ignition coils, and here's what I saw.............Having the Multi-Meter, set on the 200 Ohms scale, the Primary/Low Ohms, on both of them, was .4 Ohms (and yes, that, was After subtracting .3 Ohms/Miss-Calibration, from the .7 Ohms, that was showing on my Multi-Meter)..............The Secondary/High Ohms, was Different, on each one, of those two (used) ignition coils............On the 20-K (20,000 ohms scale), I saw, 7.86 (7,860 ohms), and, on the other (used) ignition coil, I saw 10.94 (10,940 ohms), and, the Difference, might be caused by, a different, Number (of turns), of Secondary (wire) Windings, and/or, possibly, a different Gauge (diameter/thickness) of Wire, as a guess..............You can also test, for a Short (circuit), by setting the Multi-Meter's Range @ 200 Ohms, then connect, one of the Probes, to the ignition coil's, sheet metal Laminations, and the other Probe/T-pin, into, one of those four Slots/connections (one at a time), and also, to the high voltage (aluminum or brass, spark plug wire) Terminal as well.......and.......till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Holy shit he wrote you a story trevor

+MrDreamsAlot ....Greetings MrDreamsAlot....Thanks for watching....................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...I have quite a bit of experience (some good, some bad...lol), as long as, "it", is the 1995...4.3 Liter (262 cubic inch), V6 Engine, that's equipped with, the..."CMFI"...Central Multiport Fuel Injection (some People might call it CPI...???), that happened to be, installed in, both, the 1995 Chevy Astro and GMC Safari Mini Vans, that has the "Aluminum" (Silver colored Metal), Upper Intake Manifold on it (Not Plastic).............There are a few things, to be watching out for, Ignition System-wise..................If the Distributor Cap, has the Spark Plug "Wires" On-Top of it (not from the sides), then, that little "Carbon/Resistor" Button, that's "Inside" the Distributor Cap, in the middle, usually "Wears-Out" (sometimes down to Nothing), in a very "Short Time"...!!!...so, Inspect it, quite regularly, cuz, when-ever it gets "Too Short", all kinds of Misfiring and Bad Engine Running Problems, will usually start happening.................When-ever, things like, the Distributor's Carbon Button, gets Too Short, and, Spark Plug "Wires", become Damaged (inside), and also, when the Spark Plug "Gaps" (distance between the Electrodes) gets Worn, Too Big, (or were Too Big, to begin with), then those things, that I just mentioned, puts, quite the Unwanted "Strain", on the Ignition Coil...!!!..................I had "2" Spark Plug "Wires", go "Bad" at the same time, on one of these 4.3 Liter V6 Engines, and I barely made it Home, that day....................If Your Spark Plug "Wires" are quite "Old/have Lots of Miles/Kilometers on Them", then, it would be a very Good idea, to get, a New Set, of..."Good Quality"...Spark Plug "Wires", oh, and, Only Change "1" Spark Plug "Wire" at a time, or, those New Spark Plug "Wires", might get Installed in the "Wrong Place" (such a Headache when that happens...lol)...................I had a "Close Look", at one of the Originally Installed "AC-Delco" Spark Plugs, and, I compared it with another Brand, and it was "Physically Different", at the Electrode End of the Spark Plug, so now, I try to get the Originally Installed AC-Delco Spark Plugs, just to be sure..................Also, with this Other Brand of Spark Plug, the Parts Guy, gave me, according to his Part Listing, a set of Spark Plugs, that were "2 Heat Ranges"...Too Hot...!!!......................There's usually a Red or maybe Pink Wire, where the Wiring Connectors, Plug-into the Ignition Coil, and should have about 12 Volts/Battery Voltage, when the Ignition Key, is in the "Run" Position (Not Start position), and with the Engine "Not Running"..................If You have a Spare Spark Plug, You can Connect that to, one of the Spark Plug Wires, and wrap a piece of bare Wire, around the Spark Plug's Screw-Threads, and connect that Wire, to a good, safe, engine Ground....................Then, as You Crank the Engine over, there should be a nice strong Spark, between the spark plug's Electrodes (hopefully), and if not, then there's more work to do, to find the Culprit....................What kind of "Deposits", did You See, on the Old Set of Spark Plugs, cuz, that alone, can tell You Lots, about what's goin' on, inside Your Engine's Combustion Chambers (cylinders)..................The "Ignition Module" (inside the Distributor, on its Base), has to have its Mounting Surface "Clean", along with, some "Heat Transfer."..."Specific Compound/Grease-like Stuff"...applied to the Bottom of the Ignition Module, and Bolted/Screwed-down firmly, or, the Ignition Module, will probably "Over-Heat", and go Poof...!!!...just so You know......................The Fuel Injection System, can be problematic, at times, on these "CMFI" equipped Engines.....................Is Your Exhaust (inside) the "Tail Pipe", all covered with black Carbon...???...as that can be a clue, to either, an Ignition System related or Fuel System related Problem................There's usually Only "One" Oxygen Sensor in the Exhaust System, and, I've found One of them, all Covered in black Carbon, when it was removed.....................Fuel "Pressure" (has to be With-In Specifications), and, is pretty darn Important, on these CMFI Engines, or, Bad, or No Running, it will usually be (oh, and, the Fuel Pump is "Hiding Inside the Gas Tank")........................Sometimes, the Fuel Pressure Regulator "Springs-ah-Leak" (gasoline), that, might be caused by, a crack or hole in its Diaphragm, (or maybe, the Fuel Injection Spider assembly/unit, and/or, Plastic-like, Internal Fuel Lines/Nut Kit, might also Spring-ah-gasoline-Leak as well, and I hope not), which will usually make, the Engine Run quite, if not, really Rich...Air/Fuel Ratio-wise, and, usually along with, a poor Running/Starting Engine, oh, and, Lousy Gas Mileage/Kilometer-age as well.....................So, once You know that the Ignition Coil is getting about 12 Volts to it (Engine Not Running), and, Your Engine has, in like New Condition, Distributor Cap (carbon button...!!!) and Rotor...oh, and...(I always try to get a Distributor Cap, that has "Brass" Terminals on it), and, Very Good Spark Plug "Wires", and, the Correct Spark Plugs, that have the Correct Electrode "Gap" (probably be .045"...as in...Forty-Five Thousandths of an Inch, but please, Verify the Specifications, for Your "Exact" Engine...!!!)...................A while back, I thought, that I was lookin' for, an "Ignition Related", bad Engine, Starting and Running Problem, and it turned out to be "Fuel Related"...!!!...so, maybe keep that in mind, just in case....................The Ignition System's, Parts & Pieces, in/on these, oh, about 1992 to 1995 CMFI V6 Engines, have to be kept an eye on/Inspected, quite Regularly, other-wise, this particular Engine, will get Your Attention, (by..."Not"...Starting, and/or Running very good at all), kinda like a Misbehaving Child would be doin' at times...!!!...lol...................If You care to, You can let me know, how Ur makin' out, and if need be, I'll do what I can (with-in reason...lol), to help You get Your Engine sorted out, oh, and, if Your Engine is Different, from the One (above), then, just let me know........Good Luck, and.........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

+RockysRoadshow its a 4.3l tbi and the engine turns over like a beast. basically I found no spark from coil I replaced coil and button and plugs after I had new coil in I droppped it in reverse and it shut down when I tried to crank it. the motor just turned over did the basic cheack for fule and spark test fule test passed spark test failed so Idk y the coil is going bad. I took the ecm to advanced auto and had it checked Idk were the other wiering harness got to that's on the coil 1 goes to ecm and the other goes to??? cps? or

+MrDreamsAlot so I thing I have a problem with the wierng going to coil cuz its blowing them when I drop it in reverse.

+MrDreamsAlot ....Greetings MrDreamsAlot....Seeing as how, You were saying, that, the 4.3 Liter V6 Engine in Your 1995-S-10...Pickup Truck has the "TBI"...Throttle Body type of Fuel Injection unit on it, (that, looks kinda like a Carburetor, that should have 2 Fuel Injectors on top of it), triggered my memory, in that, some of General Motors/Chevy/GMC Pickup Trucks, kept that TBI System on their Engines, for a few more years, while their other Vehicles, started to use, the Newer Type/s of Fuel Injection, and/or, the newer type of Ignition Systems as well......................Now then, You were saying, that, Your Engine Quit, while You Dropped it into "Reverse" (gear)..................Well, that has me thinkin', that, there could be an issue, with the Wiring, Wiring Harness, Wiring Harness Connector, or Ignition Switch (if Your Ignition/Key Switch is On the Steering Column, that is), seeing as how, Your Engine Quit on You, when You were putting the Gear selector lever in "Reverse"....................Did You make sure, that You Installed, the "Exact" Specified Ignition System related, Parts & Pieces, that were "Specified", by General Motors/Chevy, for Your "Exact...Engine & Vehicle"...???...in order to make sure, that, All of the Ignition Components, are With-In "Specifications", for Your "Exact" Chevy S-10...???..................There are 2 Basic things, that should be done, to help narrow the Problem/s down.....................Check (scan?), for Trouble Codes, that might be Stored, in Your S-10's Computer's Memory (there should be a Wiring Connector, on the Lower part of Your Dashboard, near Your Steering Wheel).........and.........Have the Fuel Pressure Checked/Verified, with a Fuel Pressure Gauge (might be around 13 PSI/Pounds per square Inch...Check Specifications...!!!), for the TBI, type of Fuel Injection system.....................If You haven't done so already, do an Internet Search, for a "Chevy S-10"...Website, that has a "Forum" on it, where You should be able to Ask Questions, about Your 1995 Chevy S-10 Pickup Truck................There are some pretty Smart People on those Website "Forums", and with some luck, some of those people, might have already, Fixed Problems, much like You are Having now...................Good Luck, and..........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

thanks idk I been checking voltage from all the ignition components. as far as I know from all ive learned in the past week, the steering column is now in my seat and the key switch is good. I had to tighten the bolts near the knuckle so it was nice being able to pull that off fix the play in steering wheal while checking the key switch and wiring for any busted/loose/cracked/something that looks strange in the steering Colum wiring. the staring Colum looks good as far as wiring. on the other hand I noticed today when I was testing all the harneses that work together with the d cap and coil and spark plugs that there was 2 wiers that send from the icm and go to the ignition coil pack witch carry 12v that were split. there was continuity between both end of the harness and ther was a present 12v. coming from icm. idk were the other wiers go to from the top of the coil they are bigger and are red n white they look like they carry a hevy load of volt I'm asumng they go to the ignition switch or starter??? but they ae receving 12v as well the ignition coil that I thought was bad seem to pass all test from oams metter. how ever idk how the system all works together this would b great if u coul clear it up from were the key turns........... and spark plugs in cumbution chamber and the truck is a 1990 sorry I was tierd n confsed when I said year

jeff rossberg Rossberg Greetings jeff rossberg Rossberg....Thanks for watching..............................................It would be of great help to me, if You could tell me..."What Year"...???...and..."What, Car, Truck, Van, or Mini-Van"...???...that, as You were saying...has an...Ignition Coil, that..."Has Only 3 Pins"...that way, I will have the needed Information to go on, so that I will be able to help You out, if I'm able to...thanks.....................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

RockysRoadshow 1999 chevy blazer. 3 pins on the coil. 2 wires in the harness: pink and white/black.

RockysRoadshow 1999 chevy blazer. 3 pins on the coil. 2 wires in the harness: pink and white/black.

Gaberdine DeBeaudoit Greetings Gaberdine DeBeaudoit....Thanks for the Information, that saved me from going on a..."Wild Goose Chase"...!!!...lol.....................................................It appears that Your "Ignition Coil" could very well be, the, shall we say, Next Generation of Ignition Coil, that came shortly "After" the Ignition Coil, that You see in this KZfaq Video of mine.....................................................With the Engine Cold and Not Running, Disconnect the Wiring Connector (that has those 2 wires connected to it), and the High Tension "Lead" (that looks like a park plug Wire), from the Ignition Coil.. ..........................................Then, Connect the Ohm/Multi-meter's "Test Leads", to the "2 Outer Most Pins" (You know, of the 3 Pins that are just Inside that Oval Shaped what-sham-ah-call-it), and by Selecting the "Low Range" on Your Ohm-Meter, You should be seeing..."Just Over Zero Ohm's" (but Not Zero Ohm's), and probably..."No Higher then "1 Ohm" (by doing so, You have just tested the "Primary Coil").................................................To "Test" the "Secondary Coil", Select a "Higher Range" on Your "Ohm Meter" (if You skip ahead a few words, You'll see the "Range" that Your Ohm Meter should be in), then Connect, "1" of the Ohm Meter's Test Leads, to the "Tower's Terminal" (that be where You Removed that, "1 Only", looks like a spark plug Wire from), then, with the "Other Test lead", Connect "It" to "Each" of the "Outer", of those 3 Pins" (meaning, "Not" the Middle Pin, unless I misread the electrical schematics), and Only "1" at a Time, and I'm thinkin', that Your Ohm Meter should be showin' You, somewhere "Between", oh, about..."5,000 to 25,000" Ohm's (please Check the Specifications, for Your "Exact" Ignition Coil, to ensure "Accuracy")................................................Also, if You want to Check for, what is usually referred to as..."Short to Ground"...You can Connect "1" of Your Ohm Meter's, Test Leads to the "Metal Body" (aka, those sheet metal Laminations, that are all joined together), and with the Other Test lead, You can Touch "It" to, but only "1" at a time, to each of those "3 Terminals" (inside that Oval), and also, Touch "It" to the "Center Tower's Terminal", and Your Ohm Meter, should be showing "Zero", as in "No Connection" at all........................................................Seeing as how, I never had this "Particular Type of Ignition Coil" in Custody, I'm not able to actually give You, a "Hands On Test", like I did with the "One", that You see in this KZfaq Video of mine....................................................I hope that You find the above Information somewhat useful, and keeping fingers crossed, I hope that it works for You..................................................Oh yeah, this, so called "Ohm's Test" (for Resistance), is usually "Only" a, shall we say "Preliminary Test", so to speak, as, in some Rare case Scenarios, Ignition Coils have been known, to do some pretty darn Strange things, when they get Heated-Up, just sayin'....................................................If You need any more help at all, just give me a shout, and I should be around here somewhere..................................................Till next time?..............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

RockysRoadshow I dont know about the OP but I compared by replacement coil with the OEM coil it had in it. Just as an intro note, I also bought a 2001 Oldsmobile Bravada last night and it and the 99 Blazer have the same powertrain but apparently there was a computer change in the 2001 model year. Anyway the old GM 3 pin coil gave me 6700Ohms between any of the 3 pins and the 2ndary post(plug mount). And it gave me 0.7Ohms between each pin. The new aftermarket coil gave me 9000Ohms between any pin and the 2ndary post. And 0.6 between each pin. I have not been able to find out what the specs are for good coils or bad coils.

Greetings...Richard Wright...……..Thanks for watching...…….I've never had an LS-1 engine, or, an ignition coil for one either, but, I had a look-see, online, about that type of ignition coil, and, here's what I have for Ya...……..There is probably, one ignition coil, for each spark plug (8 of them in total)…………There are probably, some "electronics", that are hidden inside of, the LS-1 ignition coil, that, might make for, some, not so good, resistance/ohms readings, on the ohms/multi-meter (usually, the much older/simpler, automotive ignition coils, did-not, have any, internal electronics what-so-ever, they just basically had, only 2 coil windings, and also, the older engines, only had, 1 ignition coil, that provided, all of that high voltage, for "all" of the engine's spark plugs too)………..If you think, that, Ya might have, only "one" bad ignition coil (on that LS-1 engine), then, here's what I would probably do...…….Use an OBD-2 (On-board Diagnostics-version 2, that your Camaro probably has/uses, but check, just in case)...scanner, and read, what, if any "trouble codes", that might be stored, in the Camaro's On-board computer...……..Here's an example for Ya...…….Let's say, that, one of the engine's cylinders, has a misfire, and, the Camaro's On-board computer, tells the scanner, that, it's Number 1 cylinder (example only...!!!)...then...I would "swap", the Number 1 cylinder's "ignition coil", with, one of the other ignition coils, that are on that LS-1 engine (engine not running of course...!!!)...then...after the ignition coil "swap", I would run the engine again, and do another scan, with the scan-tool (scanner), to see, if the "misfire", moved, to the cylinder, that, that "suspect" (that be, the number 1 cylinder's ignition coil) was moved to...……..It's kinda-like, that old terminology, known as, "the-process-of-elimination", somewhat...……..If you have an Autozone, automotive parts store, near-by, then, I've heard that, they might "scan" your Camaro's On-board computer for "Free"...??? (just give them a phone call, and see if they do...or not)………...Also, for about $100.00 (100 Dollars), then, check out "Bluedriver" on Amazon, and/or, other places as well...……..The Bluedriver, just plugs into the OBD-2 connector (might be under your dashboard, near the steering wheel, perhaps), and, it is a Bluetooth (wireless) device, that fits in the palm of your hand (quite small)...But...Ya have to..."Make Sure"...that, its Bluetooth (wireless) operating system, is compatible with, the operating system, that, your Smart-phone uses, so, make sure, and check first, what, the Bluedriver's "requirements" are, so, "it" will be able to communicate properly, with your "exact" Smart-phone...!!! (The Bluedriver, is really impressive, as to, what it can do, and then some)………...So then, that's about the easiest way, for the average guy or gal, to find that type of problem (hopefully), otherwise, Ya can also pay an automotive shop, to do, a Diagnostic engine Test, but, it'll probably cost Ya, quite a bit more, than, it would be, to buy, a Bluedriver, which, will probably last, for years & years, and, many tests (scans) too...…….Good luck, and...….till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Tomm Smith Greetings Tomm Smith....Thanks for watching, this KZfaq Video of mine, and for, Your well appreciated comment as well, my Friend..................Have Yourself a nice day, and...............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

RockysRoadshow You are quite welcome. Thanks for sharing the information. I am glad such grace and words are taken well and accepted. I wish you the best in Christ and life. I shall do, I wish you the same as well. Ciao Brother.

Greetings...Peg Billingsley..........Thanks for watching.........Good Grief...???...as in, what Charlie Brown likes to say, perhaps...???...lol...oh, and...You nailed it, as in, buy a Manual, or, put more specifically, a...Factory..."Chassis Service Manual"...for your..."Exact"...year of vehicle & engine..........In a factory chassis service manual, there will usually be some very good information, as well as, the much needed "Specifications", for most of the parts & pieces, that pertain to that particular vehicle.........As far as an ignition coil is concerned, then, there are usually 2 ohms/resistance related tests, that should be done, as in, the Low/Primary side, and the, High/Secondary side..........So, be sure to find, the Ohms (resistance) "Specifications", for the "Exact" ignition coil, that's about to be (ohms/resistance) tested, other-wise, you'll just be guessing, when it comes right down to it, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings...alvah bickham............Thanks for watching, and thanks, for all of your...hahaha's...too...lol...........Well, it looks like, your "Calculator" is working properly, alright...Ha...Ha...Ha...Ha.....lol.............Well, we really don't need to be concerned with, subtracting that .3 or what-ever, very low ohms miss-calibration, when-ever testing the Secondary Windings, that are usually showing up, in the Thousands of ohms (like your example of 8030/8029.7 ohms), and also, when, the multi-meter is set, on such a "high" scale/range, but, where it is really "important", is when (ohms/resistance) testing, the ignition coil's "primary windings", especially so, when-ever testing an HEI/High Energy Ignition coil, where-by, the HEI's primary ohms/resistance, is usually, between, just "over"...Zero...ohms, and usually, not more than, about...One...ohm...for the ones that I have tested/measured in the past...........If, and when-ever, you might be ohms testing an ignition coil, try to find the ohm's..."Specifications"...for, that..."Exact"...ignition coil, so as to, avoid, just guessing at it, and......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

RockysRoadshow That was my nephew's handywork with the calculator. I had no idea i had posted a comment of any kind until i saw your response. This video helped me out a bit with troubleshooting my gmc. Thanks for uploading it.

Greetings...alvah bickham............You're welcome, and it's a good thing, to have a good laugh every now and again, b-cuz, it's good for the "soul" (so to speak)...........Where you see those 4 slots, that are on one end, of the remotely mounted, HEI/High Energy Ignition coil, well, it can be kinda confusing alright, but, to put it in simple terms, they are actually "2 Pairs", as in, one of the slots is connected directly, to another one of them, pretty much making it, in reality, only being 2 internal wires, when it comes right down to it..........I believe, that, the reason, to be having 4 slots, instead of just 2 of them, is so, the wiring "Connectors" have an easier time, with that particular electrical circuit, I be thinkin'...........Keep-on-Laffin', and.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.