thanks

Thanks😂

Thanks

Spot on

Thanks bro, it hurt my shoulder for years

Hahhahahahahah. #TheSimpleRules

Best comment 😆

Exactly, without the correct leg and hip positioning, you cannot do the twisting. .

How do you manage the objectives on focusing on the techniques vs expectations of trying a new grade? You do like sessions of "today I'll focus on doing twist locks and climbing fast" or "today I'll focus on breathing and footwork"? I'm starting to project 7B and am struggling a bit with that. Getting a little lost with anxiety while climbing because of the new grade. Get nervous, climb inefficiently, heart rate races up, sweat and of course can't RP the route. Thanks for the comment, makes me focus on it even more, since 8a is kind of my lifetime goal with sport climbing

@@vixeno I think if you get anxious about trying a new route, then you should do more volume on easier climbs (around your onsight grade). You are more in control and will feel more confident once you try a higher grade. Also it's a good time to try the skills that Tom is showing here!

Congrats!

@@vixeno Me and my coach are focusing a lot about mental training right now. I think that could be a good way for you to get passed that issue in addition to other things. Like what @nb said. Training "scripts" at a lower difficulty climb is good to get it engrained into your bones so you don't have to think about it. Just execute it. I also think it depends a lot of how you view the problem you are about to try. What is the goal you see for the route before you get on it. Do you just want to solve it asap? If so I think you will feel nervous and you want to just climb and do everything at once to solve it fast. Which could work. Or do you want to use a new difficult route to learn on. It might take longer to finish it this way but you come out of it with more experience I think. Break it down into parts/segments. Climb each segment a few times and then try to do what you said with focusing on different individual parts. When you tried them all then try to combine them again at the end and see how different that feels to when you just tried to solve them in the start. Really try to put your mind to how every move feels. How it feels to hold each hold. How much force you put in to hold on etc. I am not a coach btw, But I am paying for a great coach who has been working with all these things together with me. So while this might be what I need. It might not be exactly what you need. But hopefully it will be useful in some way for you too :D Good luck my friend!

It's coming! Don't you worry :-)

@@LatticeTraining beyond V5/6?

Barbell Steve we’ll do a few, so everyone is catered for 💪

7a to 8a simple, get stronger fingers and core

@@LatticeTraining Awesome, you guys are the best!

I climbed 2 different 7b in the last month, I hope it will help me with my other short-term projects

Try spending your rests scoping out the next sequence of moves on your route while you shake out. This can help with getting your head focused back on movement once you're ready to climb on again. It is especially helpful when onsight climbing.

Ooo I know exactly what you mean. I notice it too!

I do this, its like shaking out lightly. Relaxing all the muscles before tensing them again. It feels like its working, could be mental, could be nonsene... But if feels good doh.

I started doing it after watching Lonnie Kauk do it a ton. To me it feels like it sort of reminds you to relax your entire body. When you dangle off the hold you remember that you don’t have to use so much energy to stay on, and it leaves more energy in reserve. That’s my amateur theory, anyway.

Hey so what even is smearing? When I try my foot always slips down the wall and I'm confused

@@ItsFireFrenzy check out this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/htmlZdxe3Mu2noE.html

Lol that's sad, I know people who do that

Lead climbing will get easier the more you do it. It’s just about building up your endurance and lock of strength. When top roping you can just keep going until you get to the top, but leading you have to have the endurance to hold on whilst you repeatedly clip. It could also be your body positioning whilst clipping that is pumping you out quickly. Try and get as balanced as possible by flagging your feet etc, and clip the QuickDraw when it’s between you head and waist rather than when it’s way above your head. Sometimes it can feel really scary to go up to the clip when you can do it from below, but it’s harder and will exhaust you quicker. Good luck :)

V3?

I don't know what you are talking about, my instinct is to climb 17 meter wall in less than 3 minutes to avoid the pump😂

Warm up better, progressively overload slower, let your body fully and completely heal those tendons before pushing them again. It's tempting to let it heal 80 or 90% before pushing it again, but be smart and wait that extra month, then take it slowly as you get back into it

when you're behind it can be useful to itemise defense and go tanky, you're no use to anyone if you just die and you wont be rich enough to build damage and tank

@@benedictionkupo imo you should always make use of your vitality packs early on and go for the risky moves on low posture.

I'd be interested in what's actually happening too.

Anecdotally, for me it tells the muscles to relax. In other words, it turns off the signal from your brain to your arms that is telling your muscles to contract. It might seem weird, but when you are tensing most of your body in order to stay on the wall, it's actually difficult to tell certain muscles to switch off. Flicking for some reason does that. Once your muscles are relaxed I think they gain a new supply of oxygenated blood which helps to grip the next hold. Anyway that is my theory based on my experience - it might be completely off.

Theo Pinson It’s usually just hand movements.

Joel Hutter cool, gotcha.

find out what your weak point is and work on it. It depends from person to person why you plateau on that level, can only be finger strength, endurance or shoulder strength in my opinion. If its not really obvious one of these, try to work on your technique like faster climbing and better resting. good luck!

that happened to me too, for about a year also. for me the biggest thing which helped was starting to do actual focused training to build up strength. i was doing negative pullups and campusing all the time, doing a bit more bouldering etc. i also got really into density hangs. chances are you're at that point where your body hasn't quite adapted to the stimulus, but if you change things up it will and you'll smash through 6a+/6b in no time :)

Try routes that are steeper. I find most people at this level tend to want to stick to vertical walls because they feel more comfortable there. If you train on overhangs you can quickly develop more strength and they will also force you to use some of the techniques described in this video. If you do this, you'll shoot up to 7a in no time.

I think yes, but you shouldn't really need to rest on boulders. They are so short you should have the stamina to do them anyway. If you don't I suggest you try to climb more power-edurance. You can do that by climbing long routes more or by picking 4 boulderproblems that are close to each other and climb all 4 in a row without resting. Then rest for 3-4 minutes and do it again.

Yeah definitely, especially if you have to go from a bad hold to another bad hold on the same hand. That tiny shake out can totally change the feel of a move.

It all really depends on the rules of your gym and how the route setters do things!

Yes, generally climbing with straight arms is more efficient. However its not always possible, for example these holds are quite wide apart and to keep the ring and pinky finger on the crimp you need your wrist set more below the hold. To do this a wider more engaged shoulder position is needed. You'll often see this where a climber takes a less efficient position for the shoulders to take a better position with the grip. If Tom were to sink his hips low and full straiten his arms, his grip position would become more difficult. With the limiting factor in this circuit being grip and forearm endurance, the shoulders and arms need to "sacrifice" some energy to ultimately get further on the climb.

The Lattice Board!

slow down your endurance training, speed up your red-pointing

While I totally agree with this, that's not exactly the message which comes across when he shows how he has to climb fast on his training parcours in order to be able to complete it

Tim asking the real questions here

It depends on how strong you are as a beginner, and also climbing 1 or 2 7a's =/= consistently climbing 7a.

slab

Good on ya!

The only things I personally can think of is as you say, you compromise the move if you do it too fast. Or the other thing is that you go for a hold before you know it's a somewhat good hold in a good position. To have a really high pace you would have to study the route very carefully from videos, books and ground up so you have a complete plan already. If you need to look for holds on the wall I think climbing at a too fast speed will cause problems.