Thanks for the update on that, I will have a look at the new model. Let me know how you get on!

Yes, I did get this wrong. I remember whilst filming I had got muddled up, a little embarrassing really, given how long I’ve been working with Morsø’s.

They have been struggling with stock recently, but it’s on its way.

I am getting a clock, it's on the next batch that I'm getting in, so it's definitely on its way. Not sure which model yet, but I will probably get their biggest seller (whichever that is).

You can take the door off, but I wouldn’t necessarily bother. You can certainly replace the rope without having to remove the door.

I’m currently using the Chilli Penguin, Hungry Penguin. I’m really enjoying it, and should have that review out in July. Cheers for watching.

Sadly there are no perfect answers, but I have worked with some interior designers who succeeded superbly, by dressing the fireplace carefully. I would look at either cylindrical stoves or stoves with log stores, and then offset the stove to 1 side and fill the other side with logs (perhaps with a bar from floor to ceiling to keep the logs retained). This designer included a little beanbag stool too, and a big lamp. The end result was superb, and this was with a small 5kw stove in a fireplace that was 3m wide. I would strongly advise against a big stove, as these leave you with either a black glass or so much heat that you are put off using the stove. Let me know what sort of thing you like and I can perhaps make some suggestions.

@@TheTortoise Thanks for the reply. I find myself in a very similar situation with a 3m wide opening and worry that a small stove will look out of proportion. I’m looking for something that looks traditional so that it’s in keeping with the property. Possibly something with a hood. But it seems that the stove legislation changes have severely limited the options out there at the moment. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

@@gavinharvey8708it’s worth saying, I wouldn’t be nervous to buy an older stove if there were any about. These new regs are a rule for manufacturers, and do not restrict sale or installation of old stoves at all.

This installation is part of the reason for the issue, but there are definitely things you can do to improve matters. The job we have is to pressurise the room, if we succeed in raising the pressure below or creating low pressure above the flue then the problem will be solved. What is around the chimney, is there anything higher than the top of the chimney near by? Is this a short building, or tall, how many storeys? How old is the building, is it well sealed, do you have any vents? If you have any vents what side of the building are they on, vs which side does the prevailing wind come from? Some of these questions will seem odd, but they’re all relevant. Let me know and I’ll come back to you with some suggestions.

Thanks for your quick response, It is a two story cottage and the chimney is constructed with brick on the end gable coming up to the ridge of the roof and continuing about two foot above the ridge. There are no obstructions and the ground falls away from the house as its on side of a hill. The extension was built in the 1960 s and that room is lower than the rest of the ground floor with no vents into the room and double glazed. There are vents under suspended floor but floor covering stops any draught. If I fitted a vent hole where is best to cut one through , ie behind stove through back of chimney or one of the walls as all three walls are external Thanks Tony

Everything you’ve said sounds essentially ideal, other than the nagging draw issue. In which case I would think that adding air is perhaps a good place to start. If this isn’t to work, then I would want to look closer at the top of the chimney. But for now the place to begin is by pressurising the room. Ideally this is best placed on the side of the building that the prevailing wind hits (as this will pressurise the room), but before you do anything, it is best to experiment by opening different doors and windows, until you find where a vent will work. If you open a window and try and light the stove, and then try different openings each time until you discover a pattern or a fix, then this can direct your decisions. If this fixes it, awesome, if not then come back to me and we can look at changes to the top of the chimney, before doing any permanent air vents etc. Good luck

I checked this quite carefully, and was so adamant that I would get this right. After I re-watched the video I realised I had said it exactly the wrong way round 🤬! I was so focused on it, and then the stress of filming takes over, nightmare!