Good to know

Smart

竜馬残映

Some ties are made of vinyl, others are made of nylon.

@@edorcheryldodson5342 yeah and car bumpers are made of poly carbonate and ABS plastic so they don’t mix well.

You are spot on. I was getting ready to post the same thing, but you've already said it quite well. The original poster doesn't know what he is doing.

Rule 101 , Looks good to me ?

Yeah I'm just going to carve out a piece of auto plastic from another car...it's a hack ...gawd

Can you please publish all rules! Thanks

@@mts0628 safety has its own chapter in the book, with its own rules (thats chapter 1). Chapter 2 is the actual welding process ruleset.

Вот хоть один умный! Ибо PP с PE пластиком не паяются!

Сам пластик на бампере не прогреется и всё это паяние хрень полная , греется только пластик в пистолете , а этого не достаточно для нормального эффекта. Одним словом,, шляпа,,😂😂

Правильно, а то, что здесь показано - это сопли. при первых же ударных нагрузках посыпется.

А я то думаю: куда мне прохудившиеся сита использовать, - а выбросить жалко🤔... Всё 🎇! Покупаю каяк, разбиваю его на порогах - и сита в дело😆! А если серьёзно - отличная идея👍. Я до сих пор скобы от степплера впаивал, но они не держат большой нагрузки, чисто декоративно. А! - вспомнил! Есть у меня в запасах и сеточка металлическая😀. Спасибо, встряхнули память🙏

Интересно, разбитое сопло от снегоуборщика так можно починить?

длинные стяжки еще и стоят за единицу веса как золотые. Сетка лучше, плюс сверху можно пролить расплавленным или разведенным в ацетоне-ксилоле пластиком от бытовой упаковки

проще сетку разогревать до красна на газовой горелке. потом прикладываешь к трещине и вдавливаешь черенком молотка.

All there is left to throw away with this fix is the glue gun.

วิธีพลิกไม้ปิงปอง

Всё правильно сказали, это видео для лохов.

Да проще было впаять металлические скобы и добавить немного этого пластика с мест, где можно отрезать. Это будет крепче и быстрее, чем тут в видео наснимали.

​@@liftConnectскобы потом сгниют и ремонт придётся делать по новой, пластик к пластику , стяжки не подойдут.

@@user-pf3dy5rs3b это как они сгниют, если будут впаяны в пластик? Металл гниёт от попадания влаги и кислорода. Внутри пластика нет ни того, ни другого.

Today, anyone who truly recognizes himself as a sinner and under God's condemnation, and comes to Jesus with all his heart for salvation, trusting fully in Christ, will receive forgiveness of his sins and be born again as a son. of God. This person will have the privilege of follow Jesus as Lord of his life. This person will know the loving care of Jesus Christ, the Good Shepherd. Dear reader, Christ has opened the door for you to come to God. He has paid the penalty for sin. He is the Paschal Lamb. Today, He commands you: Repent, and believe in the Gospel. In other words, acknowledge your sin before God, acknowledge your status as a man or woman separate from God, and stop trusting yourself or anything else. Trust completely in Jesus Christ for your salvation. Cling to Christ as Savior and as Lord. Come to Him, the Good Shepherd. God commands you to repent and believe. Don't worry about how things might turn out. Jesus Christ is the Good Shepherd. Hold on to Him, and He will take care of you. His care for those who truly come to Him is perfect, tender, and total care. Come to the Good Shepherd of souls! Come to Jesus Christ!

1

I've done the staple trick also and I like the idea of using the same plastic as filler. I was thinking a couple of layers of fibreglass or at least tape to bridge the seams. As it is one tap would probably re-open the wound...

The “P - P” on the car panel indicates it is polypropylene, as many cable ties are. Good quality cable ties are black PP, while the cheaper ones are any colour and nylon. Nylon ones are easy to break, so fairly easy to work out which is which.

I use a suitable metal mesh and also fuse it into the place of failure to increase the strength of the structure.

@@sergiydy2820 You are wrong - Metal mesh won't be strong enough.

I've seen steel window screen used for backing to make it stronger.

@@totalnoobfishing1753 There's other videos that show this better. The first part with the soldering iron trick is legit. But as several other comments have said you'll want to melt some metal mesh of some sort into the plastic. Also with a kayak I would definitely only try to do the main repair by melting the existing plastic. I doubt much else will want to stick to it. Once the main structural repair is done you can always try to add some sealer to fill the smaller remaining cracks. Might still leak a little but let's face it no kayak is 100% dry anyway.

@@totalnoobfishing1753 I haven't really done any videos or have much inclination for posting one at this time; however, I am adding a shared link to a few photos of a recent repair I did and which I'll explain below. The process is really as simple as I explained in my previous comments. Spread one layer of epoxy on the surface to be repaired followed by a layer of steel wool pressed on top of it with your fingers. Finally, a second coat of plain epoxy over the top, minutes later after the first coat sets in, or even the next day. I prefer to add the second layer while the first is still a little tacky so it fuses better into the first, but I have done so successfully after the next day also. Tips: 1) I got larger tubes of epoxy at Harbor Freight inexpensively. I have seen some on Amazon also. 2) You can try to make a mix of epoxy and steel wool in a separate container for some small applications, but I found that to be too messy for larger and other situations. I think it's best to manage each layer of material individually and not deal with a big mess. 3) the steel wool pad I used, could be unrolled out like a roll of paper. I cut off pieces or longer strips of steel wool to suite my project's needs. It's important to have these pre-cut and ready to use before you mix the epoxy because you only have a few minutes to work. 4) Don't mix more epoxy than you can manage at anytime. It dries quick. You can always mix small batches and overlap while you work on larger repairs. 5) Sand and scratch up the surface to be repaired so the epoxy sticks well to the surface. 6) Use a good amount of epoxy for the first layer and work it into the steel wool with your fingers such that the epoxy underneath it works it's way up and saturates the steel wool. You can also try pouring a little over the wool and/brush it on with a small brush or spread with flat piece of plastic or stick. 7) If you are fixing a crack in material like plastic or similar, drill holes at the ends of the cracks to prevent the cracks from spreading further. This is an important tip I learned from watching Forged in Fire where it's used some times to fix cracks on steel knives. 8) In some situations, you might want to do the same treatment on both sides of the project for extra strength. About the photos in the link below: This was a casual repair to fix a long clear toute to store stuff in my basement. I could have done a nicer job, but pretty was not a priority. I final product turned out very strong and water proof. From the inside of the container, you can see two 3/8 inch holes on each end of the crack to prevent it from cracking further. I trimmed the epoxy flush that oozed out of the holes after it dried. On the bottom side, I sanded and scuffed the plastic enough so the epoxy would stick to the smooth surface of the container. After the second epoxy layer dried, I sanded off any pointy bumps on the epoxy so it would not snag or scratch anything (or my hands) when I'm handling the container. The repair worked out perfectly, and has the ability to flex a little if needed without cracking the repair material. Enjoy... photos.app.goo.gl/zj3wC4upqGHHUz97A

@@totalnoobfishing1753 By the way... make a video if you have a chance. I would enjoy watching it! I think the epoxy-steel wool method should work well for you especially because of the need for a little flex. Other things I have tried are are styrofoam dissolved into acetone mixture and crazy glue with other substances like baking soda, but these methods result in a hard and brittle patch that will more likely crack and brake off when flexed. These are good for other situations where rigidity is OK, adherence to other kinds of materials, or making a part out of a mold. Look them up on KZfaq, experiment, and keep them all in your mental arsenal of tools for future use.

Есть проверенные технологии ремонта автопластика. Зачем изобретать велосипед?

Нормальную нагрузку такая пайка не держит. Потому что когда расплавленный пластик засыхает, он становится очень неэластичным и весьма хрупким. Данный метод в принципе можно юзать, но только для вещей где нет нагрузки. Для бампера тоже годится, пока он просто висит на автомобиле. Но даже при лёгком ударе он скорее всего лопнет в этом же месте.

Я говорю что он доктора дью и других блогеров которые критикуют такой способ ремонта не смотрел ему к этим блогерам обратиться они нормально объяснили чем лучше это дело отремонтировать!

У меня так-же такой ремонт не вызывает доверия ,яремонтирую с помощью строительного фена с маленькой насадкой и пластковых прутков вырезанных из старого бампера!!!

@@user-pi8vt7ut3n Я даже фен не всегда использую. Бывает, что и паяльника достаточно. А, пластик беру только ВАЗ. Он подходит ко всему. А, сетку беру только от воздушных фильтров, тогда и фен использую. Потом, сверху ещё пластик наплавляю паяльником. Ни разу не подвело за 20 лет. Жестянку тоже рекомендую из ВАЗовских капотов нарезать, особенно 10-х.

Брал 3 размера разных чёрных стяжек, год пролежали, хотел номер на машине поджать и все просто в хлам лопались, потом белую одну нашёл та вроде более эластичная.

Doğru

Because trying hard to melt two completely different plastics together was not enough alone. He had to paint it with acrylics which won't bond to polypropylene either. :D

@@h4z4rd42 Lol! yes! Haha! I Love youtube commenters. I agree

Makin the back of the panel "all purty" is a waste of time. Weakens "solder", wastes time and being anal doesn't get extra points.

I don't understand the utility of any of the finishing on the interior, invisible side. Why cut off the excess of the cable tie "solder", then sand, then apply spray acrylic? Surely it would have been stronger with the excess cable tie still in place.

Там и до косметики далеко

I used to plastic weld stuff using my toys with my dad’s soldering iron. Lemme tell ya, that pissed him off somethin awful that got me a good but kickin! Now that I’m older I can do whatever I want but it just doesn’t seem as fun anymore.

I totally agree on using the ties like welding rods but I have to admit seeing the cable ties come out of the glue gun was pretty awesome

How do you find cable tie to melt ? I have mixed results

@@zeez3139 Actually I don't use cable ties. I have a wide range of 3D printer filament but I usually use Carbon X: carbon filled nylon.

Don't ever try to weld different plastics together like polycarbonate (car part) and nylon zip ties. The joint is not strong.

Yep. Without some reinforcement I doubt it will last long

I'm going to assume you would use metal screening as opposed to plastic? Sounds like a really good idea if that's the case (or maybe even plastic coated fiber screen works well?) Looking forward to your recommendation, and thanks for the tip!

Better off to use Quad rubber caulk (not silicone).

Excellent advice!!!

Nice idea, gonna give it a try

Потому, что автор вообще в этом не понимает ничего.

Это ладно, без покраски тут никак!!!

I was wondering why he cut off the inside plastic also.

The left overs can be remelted in a pot then poured into a mold. A young fella here collects milk bottle tops & uses a vat to melt various colours to make skateboards,any left overs gets re-melted

​@@scorpnz4433 What is a vat?

@@nachnamevorname5917 large container usually square & are self heating. a commercial deep fryer as an example

we noticed multiple layers of plastic welding applied, so we imagine that the process is effective.

I tried it once without the gun and it didn't hit it stayed like scumbag

that smoke from the glue gun must smell great

"PCBs belong to a broad family of man-made organic chemicals known as chlorinated hydrocarbons. PCBs were domestically manufactured from 1929 until manufacturing was banned in 1979. They have a range of toxicity and vary in consistency from thin, light-colored liquids to yellow or black waxy solids. Due to their non-flammability, chemical stability, high boiling point and electrical insulating properties, PCBs were used in hundreds of industrial and commercial applications." So how ? Under other names to avoid ban ?

Thanks...

What if they're plenum rated zip ties?

​@@OMGtheykilledKenny42 The video illustrates black zip ties; plenum-rated zip ties are red to differentiate to ensure code is satisfied. Most people don't even know about those type zip ties; my concern is for those who may expose themselves to the toxins as shown in the video. Hope that helps.

@@jamsineath Lol! Indeed! Taco bell too

🤣👏

Ему нобелевку нужно дать за это.

I use the coat hanger plastic I find it better that cable ties as they seem to be a bit oily somehow

@@zeez3139 you have to use the same plastic. And it probably has to be a thermoplastic, which not all plastics are. I think ABS, polystyrene (PS), polyethylene (PE), polyamide (nylon), possibly also polyester (PET) and vinyl (PVC) will work. With the same plastic as filler, of course. Polyurethane (PU), epoxy resin, melamine and silicone are examples of plastics that are not thermoplastics. I guess cable ties are either PE, PVC, or maybe nylon/polyamide, which explains why they won't work with ABS. Coat hangers may well be polystyrene, which is probably compatible enough with ABS (which is a different kind of styrene-based polymer) to work.

Good GAWD man, did you wear a mask ? What kind of lung damage occurred since its been 25 years ago?

I use those triangular soldering irons made for plastic welding. Tip for the burning, I use an extension cord that I added a dimmer switch to for temperature control. It isn't precise, but with a little experimenting you can get it set just around melting point. When the plastic overheats it breaks the makeup of the plastic making it weak or brittle. Especially apparent when trying to do nylon with full temp. Gets all brown and kind of has a sizzling effect.

Lend my son your car for a day and your wait would be over.

@@rocketscience4516 😂😂😂

Or my ex wife😆👍😂

Meanwhile you can practice with some crap

I feel ur pain

Oh I like that, always good to have an extra lil splint

Да, я давно пользуюсь скобами для степлера, а впаиваю их, просто приложив паяльник. Вот только про стяжки не догадался: нет у меня такого аппарата.

I also use this method always.

@@user-us5cw3eq8y My Fishing Gear is in the Kitchen

You mean melt the plastic not the staples

They do make plastic welding rods go to harbor fright and get them

@@rogertaylor8615 the size of glue sticks. so they fit right into the glue gun? i thought they were just small sticks. just like sticking zip ties in the gun?

If he used the proper material and method, the bond could have been strong. This way it's just garbage. PP and PA just don't match.

да они и сцепляются плохо.

@@user-ht4mi7jg9g Вернее они вообще не сцепляются )))) .

Я думаю и клей-пистолет тоже можно будет после сей процедуры выкидывать?

Нет. Просто будет отдельно пистолет для пластика. Для клея лучше купить другой.

Сетку вплавить не судьба?))))

@@user-il1qi1mj4o Есть два метода ремонта пластика, каждый из которых имеет право на существование: 1. С армированием. Вплавляешь в пластик сетку или что-то подобное. Но стоит помнить что сетка дорогая и она не всегда под рукой, а бежать по магазинам искать её иногда очень не хочется, хоть армирование и значительно усиливает прочностные характеристики. 2. Без армирования. Наплавлять пластиковые полоски под феном, стяжка, просто паяльником с регулировкой температуры пройтись по всему шву. Мастер сам выбирает каким методом в данном случае пользоваться.

@@user-il1qi1mj4o сетка отстой

машинка для маникюра и педикюра и насадки к ней )

From what you are saying, I don't think you should own a Dremel, U could get hurt...just saying.

Согласен

3D pen is that thing you find.

I thought that maybe 3D printing ABS filament might be useful for this.

There are rods of many types of plastics available specilly made for welding, though not designed for the glue gun used in this video. You can directly use those rods melting them with the soldering iron.

does he show how to clean out the gun?

Слушай он походу доктора дью и других блогеров которые критикуют такой способ ремонта не смотрел!

да абсолютная дич! чтобы это работало нужно чтобы и бампер и стяжки были из одного пластика сделаны.

Можно, берете стандартный прозрачный стержень, он и вытолкает остатки чёрного пластика.

Correct

Comments like this feel like fresh air in Linfen, China.

Я уже сколько лет, когда сталкиваюсь с такого рода проблемами, впаиваю паяльником мелкую металлическую сетку, а потом прохожу строительным феном с насадкой под пластиковый стержень и заливаю им с обратной стороны. Стержень - это нарезка от канализационных пластиковых труб, или дешёвых одежных вешалок, но их надо тоже различать, есть хрупкий пластик, а есть тот что гнется - это самое то. Ну и все держит железно. С наружи конечно не всегда прям как новый, но нормально.

Since you asked questions(showing you want to learn and understand) rather than just stating opposition to the method and being a narcissistic jackass like so many people are these days, I'll explain it. It's precisely because of strength of the bond being required that scraping it that deep is necessary. Without doing that there isn't enough of the melted plastic of the cable ties to fill in the gap and give a strong enough hold between the breaks. Melting it with a soldering iron isn't going to bond the plastic together reliably alone and just reduces the ability to repair it if gone about that way alone. The reason why he did the scores in the crevasse with the ridges, is it gives the melted plastic something more to bond to and if there is any failures in bonding throughout the entire repair, the "chambers" separating it all with the ridges prevents one breakage from causing a full breakage. In an optimal situation, yes, it would be better to use the exact kind of plastic as the thing being repaired to repair it if that method is available, but since plastics are mostly the same with very little differences, using cable ties made of a different kind of plastic than the main unit isn't going to affect the final outcome really and it's impact on the strength of the repair is negligible. May the Heavenly Father bless you in the name of the Lord Jesus Christ if it be the Father's will.

​@@Itsallsotiresome в конце комментария было неожиданно, я чуть в церковь не пошёл, но потом вспомнил, что я на работе

I translated your comment into English using google translate and had a hearty chuckle. The reason for it is Matthew 5:47-48 KJV, and the phrasing is made that way by me because it reflects what Jesus Christ said about wanting to have that bitter cup passed from Him if it's possible, but always putting the will of the Father first. Additionally, by phrasing it that way, if the person receiving the greeting rejects the Son and the Father, I have not then spoken in a way that wishes blessings on to a person who I would then be tied in to their evil because it is stated in a way that leaves it all up to the Father's will. It greets in blessing for those who will receive it fully, but leaves an out for those who would not receive it and by the Father's will then they would not receive it. May the Heavenly Father bless you in the name of the Lord Jesus Christ if it be the Father's will.

You're right, it's better to use the original plastic to make the bond as you know it will join in unholy matrimony with the base material. Don't worry about the god botherers who think they have superior knowledge, they don't.

@@fins59 lol says the person who can't even perceive that I made more than one point in the comment and acknowledged the point made by ryoko. Did you even have the attention span to read the whole comment or did you just read the first line and the last and jump to conclusions because of your feelings? I'd say your passive aggressive comment already explains the story.