YES The bottom of the window will always be cold I use 3/8" ply blocks to elevate the window leaving 3/8" space all around for foam.

Yep

yes! in fact that entire opening is waaaay too narrow. there should be 1/2 minimum all the way around the window. by the way tyvek over foam? its not incorrect per say, but its way harder to put on in the wind when you can only use cap nails. normally it would be stapled to the sheathing, which apparently this building doent have any as hes nailing it to the studs and theframed window sill is exposed. what the fuck is this guy doing?

I was going to add this same comment. Also, FHB recommends caulking over the fin nail holes. Second, don't use sheetrock screws....

Im looking for an answer to the same question. If you figured it out could you answer for me ? or could anyone else ? It would be big time appreciated.

You get :-3 cans of foam make sure you get it in the 10 inch can. White cans only. Then you attach flange to top at window header. Then stick hardened flange to bottom of window sill and the pull on both sides of side of window making sure to take hands and wipe down the 2 side jams of window flange. Foam will ooz spend sides. Top and bottoms of all four sides. But no needs for worry have your helper to take a warm clean clothe and wipe clean window. There beutiful lady of a window installed by professionals. Another happy happy happy home owner.

nobody even noticed theres no sheathing on the walls. they just put 1 inch foam on the outside of the framing. crazy. hope youre dead on with those cap nails cause if not tuor gonna pounding holes through foam board. idiots.

I agree foam should be oozing from cracks and crevisis. Need a heavy application of foam. On all four corners. Then allow helper to clean window.

The jury is still out, but "belt and suspenders" approach does not hurt. It can be either way ( www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/where-does-housewrap-go ) 1. Sheathing/wrap/rigid foam (wrap is nicely sandwiched and protected, foam provides extra water-resistive barrier (WRB) but is not critical 2. Sheathing/rigid foam/wrap 3. Sheathing/rigid foam; no housewrap - with 2+ layer staggered foam and all seams taped you can skip housewrap but it's cheap enough to include it, and not all foam types are approved for WRB, and some can also shrink over time creating gaps.

my damn city code makes us use house wrap no matter what, so it doesn't matter if we use foam or OSB.

@@gratefulaya192 yes and a wrap of sum kind kinda required if you have any kinda caviry insulation!!! that said. 15 and 30 felt tar paper is also expectable in maney areas as it repels water. doesn't do nada for air but another option. oh and good luck on corners.