LOL - did I call it a triangle? Duh. It’s amazing how dumb I become when being recorded. Thanks for watching!

@@AmplifyDIY its call a square but to me should be call like you said triangle

This almost made me quit watching the video

@@anthonyz7327 Yeah, even in Spanish we call it Escuadra. Thanks for your excellent explanation.

Yeah, it's surprisingly hard to talk / use correct terms when on camera. Thanks for overlooking my obvious mistake in wording, and I hope your shed turns out great!

Hi Samuel - I did a whole video on that window here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/h71ibMVy05rXqp8.html - enjoy!

Thanks for the tip!

Great questions! Yes, I adjusted the depth on my nail gun so that it just barely put the head flush with the surface of the siding. I used 2" nails for this install, as that is the shortest my gun would fire. Thanks for watching!

The siding material I used is very common in my area, and does not require any batons. It also happens to be a relatively low humidity area here as well, with very little condensation. In your case, I'd call a local lumber or building supply store and ask what they recommend for your climate. Great question, and good luck!

Specially the caulking.

Those are actually separate pieces of trim that I bought. Thanks for watching!

It's holding up perfectly.

I used the 8" wide boards in 16 foot lengths. I don't recall the exact amount of overlap - but I followed the manufacturer instructions... seems like it was around 3/4" or so. May have been a little more or a little less. Thanks!

@@AmplifyDIY Thank you I appreciate it this

Hi Keith - I remember putting it somewhere, but it may be lost in the comments. or in the description or parts list for a different part of this build. However, I just checked the HD website and I'm pretty sure they still sell the same gun. Model number is: H4840GHVSG Good luck!

I used a standard framing nailer with 2” or 2-1/4” nails.

Good tip. Thanks!

Great. That’s what I need to know. The question is where to get 1” trim. Could you tell me if this is the 540 series trim? www.homedepot.com/p/SmartSide-1-in-x-4-in-x-8-ft-Tan-Textured-Composite-Trim-25879/300015533 I see it at my Home Depot, but when I measure it, the actual thickness is less than 0.75”, doesn’t seem thick enough for the lap siding.

No, this specific caulk allows for compression and expansion. It’s designed specifically for this use case.

Heh. Yeah, triangle. Talking on camera is harder than it looks 😂 I opted to build my own because I knew I was only going to ever need these for this one job. I don’t have any plans to put up siding ever again… And I would’ve needed two of them, since I was working alone. Of course if you’re going to be doing siding more than once, it really does make sense to buy the proper tools.

Heh. Here's hoping I never need to get a backhoe back there... but if I do, there's actually access on the other side of the house. Thanks for watching!

I picked up the material at a local lumber supply company called BMC West. I had to use a specific product with a specific look to match my house to keep my HOA happy. I believe the cost was comparable to real wood, but don’t recall for sure.

@@AmplifyDIY Thank U very much ima use this material as well!

@@AmplifyDIY Cool I have a Bmc in Santa Clarita ca! Thanks for the response!

Those are called siding gauges, and they are really easy to build if you want to save a bunch of money: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/h5iFZ6WavsjGZ6c.html

You should put in a nail on each stud.

AmplifyDIY by stud you mean the studs from the house right?

I was using a framing nailer, with the shortest nails it could handle - I believe they were 1.5" nails. I adjusted the nailer so that it did not sink the head of the nail below the surface of the siding.

Rprakaash - The siding I installed came pre-primed, but not painted. I installed the siding, then caulked, then painted the entire structure. So short answer: yes, you can and should paint the caulk to match the paint on the siding. Good luck!

@@AmplifyDIY makes Sense what you are saying. Great Job. It would be nice if it.came.painted and the caulk matching the.paints. wouldn't it?

If the existing boards overlap each other, you should remove them first. Good luck!

Hi Pedro - I'm not entirely clear what you are asking, but I'm pretty sure I used 2 pieces to form all the corner covers. I did not have any pre-made 90º pieces of trim. Thanks for watching!

...

Not at all. They actually suck down pretty flush when you sink the nail fully. Great question!

Hi Daniel! The siding is holding up great! 6" is a little extreme, if you ask me. Even on my actual house, they were installed as close as 2" from the ground in a few places with no issue. Good luck with your install!

@@AmplifyDIY gotcha, I agree 6" is too much. I'm doing a small section where my smaller garage abuts the side of the house to test the product. Do the expansion gaps fill in as advertised after time?

@@I2aMpAnT I actually have not really noticed the gaps closing up much. I assume they do more on a much longer wall, with multiple pieces butted together along the length. Since I was only installing a single 16' long piece in each course, the expansion has been minimal. Good luck with your project!

+Tim Fergel yes, you should. I am pretty sure I did, but may not have caught it on camera.

Yes you need to Prime ALL cuts... I don't think he did any on the trim as you can see bare ends on every cut he has and they will fail over time..

No, you caulk the siding to the trim which forms a waterproof seal. The trim cannot be installed over the top of the siding, as that would leave huge gaps. Installing the trim makes it easier to measure for the exact size you need for the siding. Thanks for watching!

@@AmplifyDIY thank you. I have a project that I'm considering using lap siding on. Big help, thanks again.

I built my own: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/h5iFZ6WavsjGZ6c.html

@@AmplifyDIY thankou you are inteligin nice ,I life la city habra california my jop is construction thankou

I used a standard framing nail gun with the shortest nails it would accept (2", iirc). Here's a link to the exact nail gun I used here: amzn.to/4cVsKmy

Yeah, I wish I’d known this or gotten better advice before I built it. Unfortunately, I followed the recommendation from my local building supply. Next time I’ll know better.

Yeah the lapsiding was protruding beyond the trim. Good video though, I like the opening on either end of the shed

I used a regular framing nailer, because that's what I had available. For nails I used the shortest the gun would accept - 1.5", as I recall. A siding nailer would have been a better option, but ya run whatcha brung, amirite?

You are not supposed to nail it at the bottom, as any nail holes there could cause water to penetrate behind the siding. It does flex a bit, but mostly in the horizontal direction, not vertically. I've never seen siding like this warp when correctly installed this way.

I believe I used 1.5" galvanized - the shortest my nail gun would accept. Good luck!

Hi John - in the descriptions of each of the videos in my shed build series I list the materials used. Choices vary, of course, but in general I used 2x4 lumber for the frame, OSB sheets for the walls, fiberboard for siding and exterior trim pieces, standard shingled roof. Thanks for watching!

Sheathing acts as reinforcement for shear stresses (think, strong wind blowing) on your wall which help keep it much more stable / sturdy. If you didn't add any OSB or other sheathing under the siding, the whole structure would be much less strong. Siding is mostly for water proofing / exterior look. Generally when you install lap siding as I did in this video, you need sheathing underneath.

@@AmplifyDIY thank you

Unfortunately, not quite. A garage would need about 3 more feet of width, but due to easements/building codes I could not make one fit. Thanks for watching!

Hi Bhadz - I used a standard framing nailer with the shortest nails it would accept - 1 3/4", I believe. It would have been better to use a siding nailer, but you gotta use what you have, right? Make sure you set the depth so the heads of the nails don't go deep into the siding. Thanks for watching!

As the board expands, it can move the wall joists with it. They allow a certain amount of flex, and the combined force of all the siding can easily expand that much across a 16' span, given a strong enough swing in temperature and humidity. Typically, they won't expand anywhere near that much, but in theory the could.

I used a standard framing nailer, with 2.5" galvanized smooth shank nails. Thanks for watching!

Hi Ian - I usually just held up the piece I was intending to install and marked it based on the spot where it was going. If the piece would not fit into the spot at all, I measured the length and height at both ends of the spot where it was going, then roughly cut the board. Then held up the board and marked to trim to fit as needed. Good luck!

True. Good tip!

@@AmplifyDIY going to make the brackets you posted, I am hanging hardi plank and these would be helpful

I just used my standard framing nailer with the shortest nails it would accept - 1.5", and set the depth to get the nail head just barely indented into the siding face.

People who don't like cleaning caulk out from under their fingernails?

Yes, they do... but: that membrane is designed to let water vapor *out* of the shed, while providing some liquid ingress protection. The areas where the nails through the siding go through this membrane are protected by the siding itself. In other words: nails/fasteners through the Tyvek are no big deal. Thanks for watching!

For water soluble caulks I’d agree with you, but this stuff is definitely not supposed to get wet until it has cured.

2.5" galvanized. Thanks for watching!

AmplifyDIY awesome, smooth shank?

Yup, smooth shank. Good luck with yours!

NO SHIT!

Yes, it is a speed square, of course... talking on camera is harder than it looks. I frequently call things by the wrong name just because I'm a bit flustered.... I usually catch them and re-state, but missed that one. Thanks for watching!

Excuse my ignorance but expansion for what? Or when. Thanks in advance.

Wood can expand/contract depending on the weather.

Did I? I'm pretty sure I demonstrated making sure you leave a gap, and used my square to set that gap. Other commenters have complained that I made the expansion gaps too large.... Thanks for bringing this up. You should absolutely leave expansion gaps.

@@AmplifyDIY I heard you say leave a gap on each end.

2" galvanized

Is that siding nail gun or framing nail gun

It's a framing nailer with 2" nails.

Maybe you should ask the store instead of YT commenters.

I don’t live in Canada.

The amount of overlap you need depends entirely on the reveal you want: in my case, I had to match the reveal of my house. I don’t recall the exact amount of overlap this left, but I think it was around 1.25” or so.

Wood putty would work nicely as well. Thanks for watching!

I'm not sure what you are talking about - my windows are only about 6" tall, and I don't understand how the vent being close to a window will have anything to do with snow....

@@AmplifyDIY Lintels (header) distribute the load over a window to the jack studs. Windows aren't designed to support any load. That could be to code where you live but it's definitely not here in Canada.

The instructions say to seal any exposed edges - caulking is probably sufficient, but in case the caulking ever shrinks, cracks, or otherwise loses a watertight seal with the ends, I'd much rather have the ends sealed with primer as well.

@@AmplifyDIY yeah better safe is best. We usually use the recommended DAP Dinaflex color match caulk that Diamond Kote prefers for caulking so that's probably why we dont worry about it where I work

Unfortunately I'm required by my HOA to match my house colors, design, and materials.

Certainly a longer level would have been more precise, but I don't already have one, could not easily borrow one, and could not justify spending the money on a new one just for this one project. The level I used worked fine, and I'm happy with the results. If I was building large stuff more often, I'd definitely invest in a 6' level. But for just one shed? Nah, the one I have is fine. Thanks for watching!

@@AmplifyDIY also a chalk line

Eh, the one I used is fine for a job this small. Had I been doing something much larger or planned to build lots of these, investing in a longer level would definitely be worth it.

@@AmplifyDIY its still worth it. Buy it

That's was fist thing I thought

Overspray didn't matter. These boards come primed, and I was only adding more primer to the cut ends. After install I painted the entire shed.

Haha in the US less than 1 percent of homes have an air gap. Its stupid I know

Yeah, no idea what you mean about an air gap. Do you mean to put a gap between the siding and the wall sheathing? Is that common in other parts of the world? It's not how this siding is supposed to be installed....

I am surprised there are no vertical battens to ensure space for ventilation and drainage...

In the kitchen sink

Rainscreen?