To be honest I have to keep it simple for myself.. Glad you enjoy the videos. Thanks for watching-Ed

Thanks Tom. The bridge section turned out better than expected.

David, it took more time than it should have but it was because of my work schedule. I'm glad I decided to do it. Thanks for watching.-Ed

Thanks Randy and thanks for watching.

Thanks Linda ans thanks for watching.-Ed

Ha... I see what you did there. It was a fun project, glad i'm able to run trains again. It's been a while. As always Mark thanks for watching.-Ed

It worked great and once I got it dialed in, putting some extra shims in to lessen the approach angle I had zero problems with it either direction. Thanks for watching Ed.

Dont know if you guys gives a damn but if you are stoned like me during the covid times you can watch pretty much all the latest series on instaflixxer. Have been streaming with my gf for the last weeks =)

@Clay Emery Yea, I've been watching on Instaflixxer for since november myself :D

Danny I was told to stay away from the 3% but I didn't have enough run way to go 2%, so I just went for it. After all the tweaking and adjusting I decided to hook up all my rolling stock (24 cars). It made the transition like a champ, I did notice a small drop in speed but nothing major. I have panel pro set up so it will only build a 12 car train so I see no issues as far as the incline is concerned. I was pretty nervous though, putting in all the work and not knowing how well or if it was even going to work like I wanted it to. I have zero regrets. Thanks for watching.-Ed

Agree, my only issue is that the incline was an after thought. Will definitely follow your advice or something close to it on the next layout where everything is preplanned. So far so good on adding the shims to soften the angle. I've run multiple trains in both directions forward and reverse with very minimal issues. Thanks for watching and the suggestion.-Ed

@@EagleValleyModelRailroad I think to use both the shims and a long unbroken piece track in combination with each other will be best.

Thanks David and thanks for watching.

It's taken a bit of work but I have it running about 85 to 90% like I want it. Shooting an ops video tonight.

Thanks Chuck and thanks for watching.-Ed

Thanks Mark, and thanks for watching-Ed

Thanks Mickey, it was a fun bash. Thanks for watching.-Ed

Thanks Robert and thanks for watching-Ed

Thanks Lee, and thanks for watching-Ed

Thank you Sir, One day my friend one day......

Thank you, and thanks for watching.-Ed

Thank you and thanks for watching.-Ed

Thank you and thanks for watching.-Ed

Glad I could help, if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask. Thanks for watching-Ed

Thanks Chuck.

I miss the tunnel as well David, the next project is to correct that very issue. As always thanks for watching.-Ed

You could definitely use tape to cover the gaps, to be honest that would be easier because once roadbed and ballast are put down, the transition from whatever earth material is being used to make the incline to the track path will be covered. The Plaster of Paris is easy to work with and wasn't that difficult to get a smooth transition. Thanks for watching-Ed

My issue is timing, so far my process is to edit the video to its final version minus the voice over, and then do the voice over during the playback. I basically talk through the video off the hip without a script. I don't do well with a script. I have to do a few takes and cut off or extend a thought due to the video being edited, but I think it works out well. Thanks for the suggestions and any thing else you can offer is welcome. -Ed

Eagle Valley Model Railroad the way I do my voice overs is very similar to your method, I like to use what I call a rough script where I script for example statistics names of places or things, etc... Scripting an entire video word for word just hasn't worked out for me, so I agree with you.

Thanks for watching Len, The blue tube adhesive is foam friendly, I got mine from Home Depot. To me it holds better than just white glue, especially when wetting and then gluing down ballast and other types of scenery on or around the track. Plus it was convenient because its the same type adhesive I used to attach the foam board to the plywood and the foam risers to the foam board. When laying track I make sure to put down a very thin layer so it doesn't squeeze up through the ties. Thanks again for watching - Ed

I've only run mine on a foam base but from just working with them I think it would deaden the sound as well if not better than just a cork roadbed. Thanks for watching-Ed

They are not, I use a liquid adhesive. I first tried the foam safe stuff because thats what I had on hand. It doesn't seem to affect the cork roadbed, it sticks to the roadbed and track very well, but if you do want to remove it a little scrap with a plastic putty knife and it comes right off. Alot of time I will place t pins before I glue it to make sure the track work is arranged and flows like I want it. Thanks for watching-Ed.

Sorry for the delayed response. I use a 2 to 1 ratio, 2 parts water 1 part alcohol and for a 20oz spray bottle 2 drops of liquid dish soap (helps with the surface tension and allows the glue mix to soak down into the scenery). Thanks for watching - Ed

Bought at the local grocery store, I got my wife to start saving them. It didnt take too long to save enough to do a good size area. Thanks for watching-Ed

@@EagleValleyModelRailroad - perfect - so what do you shoak them in?

In a small batch of plaster of paris. Normal mix is 50/50 water to mix, when I use dryer sheets or newspaper I like to use a little more water. 1 cup of mix 1 1/4 cup of water.

To much math for me Ken, not sure how the grade would be different on the same length of track just because it's curved. All I know is it worked. Thanks for watching-Ed.