Thank you very much! Good to hear as this was the plan.

Thanks... I love this mill. It was worth the effort

Wow... I needed to do that the other day... very cool. Ha

Another thing that works real good on lace and cord ends are the stainless steel crimp tubes intended for use with stainless steel cable lanyard kits. I've got 2 sets of work boots with them on the lace ends.

Some decent quality heat shrink tubing is pretty good for laces and the like too.

Yes they are! This one is especially cool. It converts 110V to 220V 3-ph.

Thats what I was going for.... I'm glad you think so!

Thank you very much! I'm not a super good welder just because I don't have a very steady hand. Nevertheless, my welds hold well and look okay. Aluminum is about the same in my opinion... just different settings and loud, ha. But i totally agree, tig is amazing!

@@WinkysWorkshop Tig is also good for bronze welding,brazing and silver soldering.....very versatile and highly controllable.

So true on the manual. There is a lot I don't understand but so far I understand what I need to know.

I am a bit obsessed with the machines but I seem to stay busy with other projects as well. Sometimes I make videos but usually they are fairly boring jobs.

It's hard to find stuff ready to go without spending a small fortune on it. I really miss having access to a nice shop (and the people). You need to have some challenges. Mark is one of the few who actually makes some stuff out of his shop. I'm sure we'll see more.

Thanks @@robert574

Thanks, that is what I was hoping for.

Cool, I suspected it was something like that.

You're correct, worked for Borg Warner Controls back in the 1960's. We manufactured variable frequency motor controls. We always kept the volt/cycle ratio you described on our setups.

Thanks 👍

Thanks 👍 I'll check out the video.

thanks

Please explain. What is the setting called?

The VFD is from amazon, Link in description. The cool aspect of this VFD is that it also converts 110v to 220v 3ph. Vevor sells the same VFD in a 220 version. Its a cheap VFD. It has a lower carrier frequency than some which make the motor whine at some RPMs. I can live with that... its easy to ovoid the specific RPM.

Thanks!

This is a cheap VFD but it seems to do well, we will see. So far the only thing i have noticed is a whine at some RPMs. From what I understand this caused by a low carrier frequency. I can change mine but it is limited.

VFDs are fairly new to me but I've learned a few things. The motor I used was 1130 RPM and VFD rated. The lower RPM rating allows me to maintain torque on the low end and I run the motor at a higher frequency to get 2200 RPM. There is also some torque loss at higher speeds but the torque isn't needed on small end mills. I need to move a belt at super low speeds but I've never needed to yet. I never turned on any torque compensation. I dont remember seeing it but it might be there.

It will be interesting if I notice a difference. For sure the variable speed will be a huge plus.

Thanks

Excellent idea! amzn.to/3SayJLc

I bought new switches and pot and then realize I bought two of each when I installed the VFD on the Hardinge lathe. I also bought and indicator light which I'll install on the switch box I made. It will light up when the VFD is turned on. I'll put a main power switch on the box that holds the VFD. I'll probably by a tach like I but on my lathe. It has a magnet and prox. I think it does have the brake option but stops fast enough with the deceleration setting. I think I have it set at 150 cycles per second. I may lower that a bit.

The vfd's are great aren't they? I just watched your other vfd installation on the lathe. (Was there motor noise?) You found a counter with 110V input voltage. Most are lower voltage and need a small supply. It looked perfect to me. For my bandsaw, the only other control I was going to use was an emergency stop which would engage the braking resistor, then I found out my unit didn't have the option. I did install forward and reverse jog push buttons to clear the blade. @@WinkysWorkshop​

Did you get the email I sent with the heading "Motors"? I linked the items to the pictures so everything is safe to click on. @@WinkysWorkshop​

It seems like there should be a green light next to the power on switch on the back box so you get a response flipping it. Then counter will be lit up with a zero until you turn the rotary switch. (They make rotary switches that light up too). No doubt about it, lights are cool everywhere if there's room. I like it.@@WinkysWorkshop

@@robert574 I agree, the 110v speed display is great

How?

@@WinkysWorkshop pull the armature out and the shaft presses into it. Of you have an arbor press or hydraulic press, it will push right out. Then use your lathe to make whatever length or size shaft you need. Only limited by the bore of the bearings as to maximum size. If you do this get a piece of pipe larger than the shaft and machine a bushing that is about 1mm larger than the shaft and fit it to the pipe. This is because some motors have laminated rotor cores and this will prevent them from separating. Over here in the USA this is very common to reshaft an armature after bearing failure.

@@a-k-jun-1 interesting. It sounds doable Maybe I'll try it o a dead motor first.

I could step the inner bore of the pulley and remove the spacers. Not a bad idea although the pulley is not solid. It's hollow on the bottom (I think). I could actually just makes 4 inch sleeve to fit over the motor shaft and bore the pulley to fit the OD. In a way I don't want to modify the pulley but then again, I could just sleeve the pulley if I change to a different motor in the future. You got me thinking now.

No, 110V Single to 220v 3-phase.

@@WinkysWorkshop thanks for your feedback

Mine might do the same, I haven't tried this yet

You can a little, i found it's better to go up in motor size a little when doing this conversion.

To some degree but not bad. the VFD compensates for this to a point. The biggest problem at low speeds is heat buildup. The motor i am using is 1120 RPM but I'll run it at 1900. This isn't an issue but you do lose torque. The thing is, you seldom need torque with a small end mill. By running the motor faster you can run the belts in a position that you will not need to slow down as much. Plus (in my case) the lower RPM motor can run much slower without overheating.

I had to think about that for a minute... 1/2"

Not much to get a hold of. I wondered about some sort of an extended hub on the pulley. How about buying a threaded arbor for a grinding wheel (would have the keyed bore) and then bore a pulley (or buy one that fits) to slide over the outside and weld it where you want it. Maybe that's what you're thinking of. @@WinkysWorkshop​

@@robert574 The threaded arbor is basically the same as the shaft extender I will make. The part that slips over the motor shaft has to be a little longer to hold the smaller diameter shaft on the end. Unless I shorten the motor shaft I'll need to elevate the motor

Just thinking about that keyway inside the bore. @@WinkysWorkshop

@@robert574 There are a few weird things here, the motor shaft is 3/4 with a 1/4" key and the pulley in the mill is 3/4 with a 3/16 key. It wont be hard to make. If my have a 1/4" end mill long enough I'll waste art of the steel away with the mill.

I suppose could... are you wanting to verify that its outputting 220?

Okay... I took a voltage reading. at full speed the voltage was 225V across any pair. At 30 hz it was 47 volts.

It would be really interesting if you stuck a volt meter with a needle on the side there somewhere to watch under load. A tach would be useful also to see how it performs. You'll draw a crowd with that one. It's mainly about how well the voltage doubler works. The motor speed will be frequency driven, but the torque may not be there if the voltage is low. @@WinkysWorkshop

@@robert574 From what I understand it's supposed to have some torque compensation at lower speeds. It kind of surprised me that the voltage was lower at lower speeds. I'm using this same motor VFD combination on my Hardinge lathe and it works very well. With that being said the Hardinge would work well with a 1/4 HP motor. I think it will work find on the mill but we will soon see.

I ordered (3) different transformers (separately) on ebay to convert 110 to 220V for a vfd. I gave shipping and packing instructions for all three and all of them ignored them and just dropped it into a box with some wadded paper or bubble wrap. It was like shipping a heavy cannon ball and all of them were destroyed when they arrived with the coils smashed and broken, terminals broken off, not even remotely fixable. On the fourth one, they wrapped it, taped it, wrapped it and taped it again over and over. Not my instructions and the terminals were broken, but fixable with some epoxy and fiberglass. I did get a refund on the first three and the seller paid for the repair on the last one. If you ever order a heavy transformer, make them bolt it to a piece of plywood that fits the box first. I see one of those 3000 VA voltage converter transformers at the pawn shop every now and then for $30-40. Those are perfect and you only need one to power all your stuff (one at a time).

I was just thinking the same thing. It looks like 22awg 🤣🤣🤣 I would use at least 10 awg . This is 220volts. Guess he will start to smell a plastic burn soon…🤣🤣🤣 Glad someone saw it first…

@@doingstufforatleasttrying4843 i think it is heavier than 22.. maybe 18 or 16?? ok for a simple test but even 14 solid Elec wire would be a better choice... depends on the amperage at 3 PH ... worst it would do is melt the plastic..then blow the breaker as they touch...and make a good video !! Content matters...😤

@@doingstufforatleasttrying4843 it would use less amperage at 220+ and split between 3 wires.... he did say he wasn't an Expert...😂

Ha... yeah, 16G. I'll use 14 when I install it.

Yeah, I looked it up. It needs to be 14 but the speaker wire was 16... good for a test.