Haha it’s on 33s now fenders are messed up now so we will trim!

Yea I would definitely replace those while you’re there

@@NajarOffroad On backorder at Ironrock not sure when there coming in. But I did get my Jeep Cables in Big7.

Hey, did you get that Rustys 2.5" lift installed? I'm trying to decide if I should get that lift. Hoping you may have some insight.

Yes I did looks nice jeep still not running major oil leak will do a little short vid tomorrow

To much work😂 easy to use compressors as sketchy as it is

Soon!

Good tip! Will do! We planned on replace the brakes and rotors so we will add the new calipers to!

What do you do for work?

You have to remove any rust first! Or else the paint will make the rust problem worse!

Thanks good tip! I forgot to mention in the video you want to loosen up the control arms and retorque them once the jeep is on the ground so the bushing aren’t twisted if that makes sense

It’s getting there little by little

Yea eventually we will get to it!

You are speaking about the front driveline yokes. The one on the transfer case is simple, buy one and replace it. The one on the diff is a bit more tricky because of the crush sleve. The proper way is to start over with a new crush sleeve and properly set the pinion depth. It can also be done by trying to be careful not too over tighten the crush sleeve, but you never know if it was tight enough or too tight. The best time to do this is when you re-gear the diff, because a new crush sleeve will go in anyway. With a rzeppa front driveline you will need to replace it with a double cardan driveline. In all cases except with a custom axle, I strongly recommend a double double cardan front driveline. That's a double cardan on each end of the driveline. Especially if it is a daily driver or overland rig. The output shaft on the front of the T-case points upwards and as you drop the T-case this gets worse. On the axle side of a driveline you want to have about 2° of downward pinion angle, but if you do that you end up with negative caster. You absolutely need 5° to 6° positive caster to keep the jeep from wandering all over the road. The best solution is to have a custom front axle made to correct for the angles between the outer C's and the pinion, but that's $$$$. This is why older jeeps had locking hubs.

So with a 2” lift the stock r to r driveshaft works fine for Light off roading….but personally I hate the design 😂 so I’ve replaced mine with a earlier grand front driveshaft the v8 version of the earlier zj yokes & driveshaft fit just fine & will be allot stronger….also a recommendation beyond lockers & typical off rod upgrades are the iron rock off road front control arm strength kit I think it’s called so your paper think mounts don’t fold on rocks as well as a front rad support cage so you don’t bend the again paper thin one the wj has….initially they’re not really built with off road in mind so there’s some weak links once that’s taken care of they’ll go anywhere any other Jeep will go

Nice man! We might repaint all black

@@NajarOffroad Pm me I'll show b4 and after pics

@@NajarOffroad I'd love to see how those rims play off the black trim too!

What size tires did you go with after the 2.5 lift?

@@monroemando currently I have 255/70/16 on there now.

I believe on supreme suspension instruction it showed to do the front on top and rear on bottom

Nah more lift haha

We Going to do the Bushwacker flares and a 4 inch long arm lift to get 33’s under there. That will be it , MAYBE

On the supreme suspension instructions I’m pretty sure it said bottom but I could be wrong

@@NajarOffroad I thought it was bottom also but kept moving around had to redo it and place it on top. Coil stays put now. 👍

Is it normal to remain that space between spacer and the deck?

No adapter but the wheels rub a lot on the suspension!

What nut do you mean? message me on instagram or facebook with a screenshot @najaroffroad on both

@@NajarOffroad sorry I meant bolt lol

With a bunch of trimming you probably could.

If 35 inch mud tire catch fender it will be gone LoL

I did have the other side lifted

I’ve seen people do it but I’m not sure how the ride quality would be

The A Arm clunks because of bad bushings but we will replace that soon other than that it’s been solid

Might still need to trim the front bumper a little

@@NajarOffroad awesome thanks for the feedback man

You may have to do some tire research... I'm on the same boat so....255/65/17 equals to 255 mm to inches =10.5 " wide and the 65 = 30 inches tall...and this is my choice tire for my recently two inch lift on my wj...you can just play with those numbers till u get it right...good luck .

I’m running 245/75-16’s on my 99. Very little rub at full lock

32s 255/70/17 I believe it was

I think Iron rock 3 or 4 inch would probably be decent place to start! Zone has a 4 inch lift I think more affordable than iro

Cry once and get the IRO lift. There are good quality parts inside of that kit. If you can swing it, do long arms front and rear. The IRO rear long arm kit is a triangulated long arm lift, unlike RC which isn't even a true long arm lift.

Spring only lift, shouldn't go past 2" with short arms or the ride will get rough. This is because as the control arms start to go vertical, some of the road vibrations end up going through the control arms that are designed to be stiff.

Jk or JL fit

Fortunately it’s all good! I was surprised haha

I did the same lift spacers on mine and started with bad steering, i have changed alot of things just trying to take care of the problem and nothing 🥲 still cant find the problem ☹

I’m trying to debunk the coil spring compressor myth by using logic. So on iron rock off roads website it claims travel rate of 200pounds per inch on coil springs. Say the bolt size on the compressor springs we’re 5/8” fine thread grade 8. So at that rate you could safely torque to 250 ft pounds. I don’t know how the equations would work for foot pounds to clamping force but all I’m saying is to compress a 2” spring to stock height would take 400pounds of force and the two spring compressors could handle 500 a pair easy then it should be no problem to install a 2-3” spring lift by yourself as long as you have a tall enough jack

Just don’t go ramming down the spring compressors with an impact and use and end wrench and keep test fitting til you get them to go in.

I believe they are 255/75/17

I just bought my 03 jeep last week and I'm trying to get 265s on them and a 3 inch spacer to make them fit

@@NajarOffroad I’m looking to go for this exact look but on a 1999 grand Cherokee wj . Would this setup fit mine?

May I remind you I’m from SoCal 😂 no rust here baby!! 😜

@@NajarOffroad Yea lol, I said screw it, I'm trying to make mine at least 600hp lol. Street and mud beats! Lol

I believe those were 255/70/17

You may have to trim (cut) the bumper and fenders.

Haha winner 💪

Lol. Your vids give me a ton of inspiration on stuff to do to my Jeep. Keep up the good work 💪