Thanks 👍

Thanks 👍

The whole thing is "rattling", so I think it's time to find new options with this motor. :)

Thanks, will do!

@AndyKruseChannel I have a 66 Mustang here in Australia that i am building and has a 302 windsor, numerous things on your car I have stolen your ideas to build a nice cruiser. How much hp did your 347 have once dynoed?

@@troyterry8048 There's a video of the Dyno. :)

Yeah, I think my motor is done, my oil pressure isn't that high.

Glad it was helpful!

My oil pressure is no where near what you and others are reporting, my motor is probably done. :(

@@AndyKruseChannel it might be worth replacing the oil pump you can get a good quality new one for under $60 I believe. Then you can checkout the screen and gasket in the process to make sure that's not another reason for the pressure loss. Good luck either way 👍

Buy a high-volume Melling oil pump, hardened oil pump drive at the same time. You may want to invest in a 7 quart oil pan at the same time with matching oil tube pickup. True story, I actually had an oil pump (PAW automotive) go bad. The small freeze plug on the pump opened slightly, making the pressure drop to 10-15 lbs at idle. lucky for me I didn't destroy the engine. Rule of thumb, your engine should have around 10-12 psi of oil per every 1,000 RPM after the oil is warmed up.

That's a great idea!

Connections were fine. I had to rewire the whole cluster anyways when I did the full wire job on my car. :)

Thanks 👍

Thanks!!

Thanks! :)

Thank you! Cheers!

Go for it!

Thanks. :)

Wouldn't it be easier to just rebuild the motor! :)

Thanks! Yeah, I think this motor is just about ready to be done. :(

If you're referring to the push-in-sockets for the 194 bulbs, I purchased them from an Auto Parts store in my town. I did have to slightly shave off the "barbs" on the socket so it would fit, but it was minor. I put an Amazon link to something similar in the description below the video. Good luck! :)

Thanks 👍

Haha, thanks, it was a poor attempt at having a little fun with the video. :)

Thanks! The threads will make contact, as long as I don't put 20 layers of teflon on the threads. I thought about the sending unit being bad, but you're right, it could be the gauge too. The oil gauge was working before, but the letters "O I L" on the factory gauge doesn't tell me the pressure, so it's difficult to know what it was before. I fear the motor is done as it smokes when I drive and I've had front wheel drive cars from the 90s that felt faster than this thing. Oh well, it's only money!! :)

@@AndyKruseChannel ooof smoke out of the pipes isn't good :(

Yeah, I'm running straight 30W oil now. My guess is the motor is done. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel sorry bro

Yeah, there's a lot of great options out there and I want to do all of them. But in the end, this is one of those things where it's realistic to only pic one. :)

Yeah, I figure my 289 is done and that oil pressure is the tell tale sign that she needs to be rebuilt. My new 347 sits around 50 psi, so at least I know that the gauge wasn't bad. :)

Thanks for the feedback! The speedo cable is threaded, so there's no need to pull, just unscrew it. If the nut on the cable is spinning, it may just be on there all the way and so it will take several turns. If the nut is not spinning, the previous owner either used a wrench to tighten it down, or they cross-threaded it. Try getting in there with a wrench to see if it will "break loose", then continue to unthread it. You may need to disconnect it from the Trans so you can feed the cable up into the dash and allow you to pull the cluster out further to get that wrench on it. If you break that nut loose and find it's cross-threaded, I'd buy a new speedo cable and run a Die over the threads on that speedometer (5/8-18 thread). Good luck!

Thanks! The lighting with these new gauges is better as their design is 50 years newer. The lighting on the old gauges were partially horrible as it seemed like it was an after thought to add lights when they were designing the dash, and it seemed like they just put them where they'd fit instead of putting them where they should go. This made the lighting not very efficient. Even though the LED bulbs were better than the stock lights, the lighting in the new gauges is 100x better. Wheels are 16x7 with 4" backspacing (0mm offset) and the tires are 225/50/16.

Yeah, I been thinking about putting a mechanical unit on the extender tube and just see how it reads. I might just have a bad sending unit. Or my motor is done. :)

Sitting in the driver's seat, I cannot see it. If you bend over and try to look under the gauge bezel, you can see that dash metal is formed a little different than the rest, but only because you're looking for it. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks!

It's really low. Time for a rebuild?

Yes, I thought about that, but I didn't want to jack up the car and go through that whole process to get some slack in the cable. I'm using the regular bulbs for now, but I'll change to LEDs down the road. :)

I think you're right, wiring up the stock dash in a similar manor might be helpful. I stuck with the bulbs that came with the new gauges for now, figured I'd upgrade them down the road. :)

Yeah, these gauges are pricey, it took a while to accumulate all the pieces, had to spread it out over quite a while. While they make good stuff, not sure that Dakota Digital is an upgrade. Yeah, I'm fearing that this motor is on its last leg. Maybe it's time for a rebuild.

I think they were 168, or something like that. The highbeam and blinkers are in a generic socket I purchased at my local auto parts store.

It depends on where you get your power from. If you grabbing from a fused source already, then it's kind of redundant, but it's not likely to hurt anything. If you're pulling from an unfused source (like the battery, or maybe of the hot side of the starter solenoid), then I strongly recommend putting a fuse in line. :)

Thanks! The time is greatly skewed by the setting up of the camera, lighting, and making sure I know what to say every time. Skill level plus tool availability will also affect the project time. I can see telling someone they can do something in an afternoon or over a long weekend might be helpful. But most of my projects are done in the evenings or on the weekend as I still have a day job. It breaks up the install because I only have a short amount of time to work on something, then I have to wait until the next day. This skews the timeframe as I forget how much time I spend on something that gets spread over a few days. I always put part numbers in the description below the video, and sometimes links, so it's easy for people to see what something would cost. Sometimes I purchase used parts, or find a one-time deal that others wouldn't get, so advertising what I paid is not always fair since most couldn't replicate that purchase. For this particular install, someone could knock it out on a Saturday, and they'll be out about $800. :)

Thanks! I like the race-look that these gauges provide, and to me the chrome doesn't sing that kind of song. I went with Autometer because they're almost the standard that other people compare to (kind of like how the BMW M3 use to be the car everyone compared their sports car to) and I wanted something that will work, always. Yes, there are other brands, and go brands too, but I know I can get parts if needed, and I know these gauges will work on day one. I did look into other companies that offer custom faces, and I was tempted, but I found the prices too high to justify that route. So in the end, it was price, style, and essentially a guarantee on reliability.

@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks. makes sense and having a six gauge cluster makes it look neat and tidy. If you really wanted the race look I guess you could have gone for the center mounted gauge on top of the dash instead, but then it wouldn't be a big change from what you already had installed :)

I found it on Ebay. I had in my previous Mustang and the buyer of that car let me keep it because they wanted to put a radio in the car. So now I have it for this car. :)

Yeah, this is an old video. :)

I have my channel email posted in the "about" tab on my KZfaq page. :)

I do, but it's in paper form, which I printed from a pic I found on Google. :)

Could be worse, your hazard lights could somehow be wired so your battery drains every day. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel funny you mention that, I just got done chasing down a battery drain.

Just the regular white, I did not leave the colored lens on the bulbs. :)

Not sure what "ref" means, but I purchases it from CJ Pony Parts (part number STW111KA1S). :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks you ! That’s what I was looking for :)

Hi again Andy ! Thanks for the advice, I am waiting mine ! I have another question, I plane to change my tires because it’s way too big and I just scratch a fenders… Front : 235/60/15 Rear : 255/60/15 Can you help me too choose the right one please ?

@@xXRPZXx I had 225/60/15, all four, on my last Mustang and I think they looked fantastic. However, part of that was because of the backspacing (offset) that my wheels had, which moves the tire out a little more over the factory wheels. Those wheels had a 3.75" backspacing (-6mm offset) and I loved it. My current car has 225/50/16 with a 4" backspacing (0mm offset) and I don't think it looks as good as the other ones. I'm not liking the larger wheels this time around and I kind of wish I could go back to that size I had on my previous Mustang. You already have 15 wheels, which I think is better as I feel that classic cars look better with taller-looking tires (more sidewall, not thin tires on current cars).

Nothing, you can tape them off and leave them, it won't affect anything. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel thank you.

Yeah, I think my motor is done.

Bearings need replaced.

Oh no. That's not good. I'm going to put in a set of electrical tripple guages. All my originals work, but they just give you an "idea" that things are working. I want more precise information. I have a 67. I wonder if they make guages to fit in my cluster like you did yours......🤔

ok

Maybe next time.