How is this a good video he offered no educational dicational help on on how to apply it how to dilute it how long to let it sit what are the pros and cons of using that over something elsomething else

That is what I have heard When (how soon) do you use that second pump sprayer after you lay the acid?

vacuum the water out. Or hit it with the leaf blower.

I'd use a leaf blower, then a heat gun. With a heat gun you can see the concrete drying up right away.

Heat gun can cause the concrete to crack even more because of drastic temp changes. I'd shop vac the whole area to give it a head start, prevent some of the water seeping into the cracks, then leave a box fan overnight, or use a leaf blower like Mauricio said. Hope that helps

Have to grind it. Rent a machine.

@@arrepuess little late. I tiled the whole house. Looks awesome!

+ryanspears1986 You really don't want to be breathing this stuff. If your heart is set on using the acid then yes you definitely need to ventilate. Diamond grinding is a far superior method of prepping concrete prior to installing any concrete coatings.

+Michael Chu If you would have prepped the floor with a diamond grinder , you wouldn't be having this problem. Diy kits that you can purchase in big box stores are really the only ones who say to use the acid etching. Its designed for the homeowner to do it themselves. We exclusively diamond grind all our concrete floor jobs. If the concrete has a coating that has failed due to improper preparation we will use a shot blaster to remove the old coating and then diamond grind it. This equipment doesn't come cheap, the two machines that im referring too. cost thousands of dollars. This is why the kits are sold with the acid etching. The equipment is available for rent at home depot for around $150 including all the accessories.

@@sdchealthnews , I have a very rough concrete garage floor in U.K. with trowel Marks and everything , 30 years old , do I need to etch ?

Great idea and simple green also works🤙thanks for sharing!

Squeegee the water out and use a fan to blow dry the excess.

correct.

how did it come out?

to let dry. if u epoxy righ away moisture that gets in concrete will need to come out and will probably make paint fail.

miguel garcia I used blue bear to remove the black mastic. Damn! That stuff works great! I degreased, rinsed, and mopped and found a highly polished concrete underneath. I filled a hundred carpet tack divots and two cracks then I rented a sander with 20 grit and went over for several hours. No change. The concrete repels water because it’s highly polished. I’ve been advised not to use muratic acid for interior so I got seal krete clean and etch. It worked on my test area at high concentration but don’t know if I’m going to do the whole house with it since I would need several gallons to complete. Also, I was told the muratic fumes would damage my Sheetrock and paint.

Tape of the walls?

For sure. Especially when applying 75% acid to 25% water!!

Just rinse it out with water into the grass or wherever

When I did mine I neutralized the acid by dumping on 5 gal buckets with a mix of water and baking soda which made it safe to go down the drain or wash down the street without worrying about it continuing to etch

No..

Seal krete clean & etch at Lowe’s would be ideal for a small interior area. I’m trying to do my whole interior house and didn’t feel comfortable with muratic acid so I bought some seal krete etcher and just did a test area. Works good with no fumes. I don’t think this is my best option for 1200 sq ft but I can recommend for small mud room. Good luck!

I will bro

Baking soda

He had to have said that backwards

Nope. Nevermind. Just saw him add that whole gallon!!!

Yeah

To remove the acid you mix a box of baking soda on a 5 gallons of water and you clean the floor with this water. It is recommended by the coating manufacturer!

Yes

Thanks, Is the epoxy 100% solids?

Do you think a super high alkaline (13 ph) cleaner to etch the concrete? acid just freaks me out...

Got one of those!

+Adam Ecks I agree Adam. Acid etching is not the way to go. All this water being used is totally unnecessary. Using all this water makes the job take longer. Having to hose down the driveway and watching out for plants so that the acid doesn't kill them can all be avoided by not acid etching in the first place. Diamond grind the surface then vacuum up the dust and your ready to apply the coating, no waiting for the floor to dry and we typically have homeowners back in their garage the very next day.

Thats what i thinking. surface prep should be completed with a grinder. All youre doing with muriatic acid, hydrochloric acid, is reacting the calcium mineral deposits... thats why it foams. You need to grind down to the coarser aggregate like others mentioned. For other concerns, the acid should be neutralized 30s-2 min after applied with ammonia or sodium bicarbonate. Just pouring water on it is putting acid in runoff especially with garage drains. The acid should also be diluted down to 1 part acid to 8 water. As a business, I would be more concerned about showing these practices then making a few dollars on youtube videos. doing something for 15 years doesnt trump an education. like another comment mentioned the acid removing oil. It may but oil is properly removed with alkaline based degreasers and neutralized with a light acid before rinsing.

Yeah since everyone has access to a diamond grinder and or the 280v power and hookup to run it. Not to mention the know how to use one. Diamond blades are also expensive.

No it has no cleaning ability at all.. strictly reacts to the minerals in concrete and etches it