Clean with Napta and a toothbrush !

That sounds really good. Personally I would just leave the color alone. I actually like it more than the expensive rosewood

Question for you, do you have any recommendation other than the Fiddes Dark Oak Naptha? I can't find that for sale on the internet.

Thanks

Likewise. Love mine, but the fretboard is my one complaint. Not playability, but the color only. I have treated my fretboard on every string change with the Music Nomad F-One oil, and it's made it much darker!

Thanks :)

Slap it on... Lol

Did the dye have any toxic ingredients in it? Just curious bc I want to dye some board

Haha. Yes it was a little bit dangerous but the glossy plastics seem to be ok with that kind of thing.

You know what it is.. I had some black angelus leather dye to hand and never thought to include it. No brown though

@@DavidImrie It seemed to seep in rather than sit on top. Bodes well for future playwear. After a nice conditioning it came out well. Luckily the laurel board on mine wasn’t the streaky kind so it all dyed evenly

What did you do to keep the inlays clean and bright...?

@@GlennMarshallRocks Cut out perfect little circles out of painters tape

Thanks. I don't use the guitar that often but so far id say it has lightened over time ever so slightly, but no nasty wear patterns or anything like that, so would recommend.

Wow. That's surprising. You'd think it'd look blotchy

Best of luck. Let me know how it goes.

You could buy a set of stick-on inlays, Thomann offers and cover yours before dying!? 🎸🤘🎸

Let us know how it goes 😊

This guitar only get's light use but it still looks great. I'd say it may have got slightly lighter over time but still looks good/better and has not gone patchy or anything bad like that.

I haven't filmed it since but it's held up well. I do have a very light touch when playing though and it hasn't seen heavy use. If I think on I'll try and include it in another vid.

From which brand?

I tried using oils (Danish, teak) but the result was a smelly tacky finish that never completely dried.

Feed n wax has orange oil in it

@@yetigoosecreature8682 I love the feel of a bit oil on the fretboard, it makes a kind of silky feeling.

@@yetigoosecreature8682 You need actual boiled linseed which is what was always used, it will cure but it has to be actually boiled (some are labeled boiled but are chemically altered).

What's what I'd be afraid off too and I think it would be the case with a heavy dose of wood stain, but honestly I've been giging with it for a few months and it's been fine. It lightened up (evenly) a little as It dried but it's been fine. Granted I'm not the heaviest of players but no issues so far

It depends. If it's a thick layer of true wax then yes otherwise it will not let the dye dink in.

The one I used in the end was naptha based. As for the others, fair point, water based I think.

I haven't oiled it yet since to be honest

@@DavidImrie ‘cause I’ve always known that stained or painted woods cannot be treated with lemon oil or similar products. Since laurel can be a little dry it may be an issue later on

It only sees light use but fine. :)

Howard feed-n-wax

Yes that's the worry. That's why I went subtle. I'm also a fairly light touch and rotate guitars a lot so it doesn't see heavy use. I don't think I do it for someone else I don't need do it for myself because I know that it did wear off I could restain it

@@DavidImrie I've lacquered it today - it looks good, but time will tell if it lasts between string changes. ;)

A quick update for anybody who may be interested: Liberon spirit wood dye worked out the best for me - 6 months on and it hasn't worn off (yet). I found that preparation is key: the fretboard has to be 600-grit sanded to open the pores, and then cleaned with spirit / alcohol to remove excess oils; a single coat of spirit wood dye was enough to make pau ferro look more like rosewood. I'm now going to do the same to a walnut fretboard to look like ebony... ;)

Is the lineseed oil and beeswax combined in a container or how does that work?..and when you wipe it off and let it dry for an hr and apply again.apply what again?..acetone or linseed oil/ beeswax?

Still fine though it only gets very light occasional use

@@DavidImrie Ah, nice to know. I take it you didn't get discoloured finger tips then?

Nah not at all.

@@DavidImrie So I shall try it then :) Thanks :)

That I can't say for sure. I'd say it gets a little lighter as it dries. There is the possibility if you wear the fretboard heavily you could get a light spot but I've not experienced this. The guitar still looks good to me. At the end of the day I'd just do it again if it needed it.

honestly, you'd be better to pick a wood stain that can counteract the red. there are a variety of shades, and using some will blast out the red, others will add red. they have that so you can counteract your base wood color which can range from white to yellow to pink to brown. so a very dull/dead looking stain could knock out the red and the combo would be a very nice color. for instance, jacobean was a little more dead like this. versus say american colonial or the color provincial. (these are minwax color names). but basically jacobean has almost an olive, desaturated tone to it. (it's subtle.) and that green helps tone down the red. you can get small pots from home depot or places like that. and, if you wanna get really fancy, you can buy untinted stain, and add just a little bit of whatever you're planning to use to it. to make a diluted version. i think this could be a good approach to an ebony board. then do multiple layers of it. pretty sure it would come out more natural then. layers always look better than a one-an-done, in staining, in painting, and in art-related painting. keep in mind, you'll never truly hide wood grain unless using something opaque, which regular stain is not. the diff grains of the wood don't all take in stain the same, so it can cause the differences. plus, if the base color is striped, your starting color isn't uniform. and since colors LAYER upon each other.... the dark starting color/stripes will always be darker in the end. BUT not all ebony is pure black anyway. some of it is lighter and many examples have some amount of striping. (if you want DARK, the color espresso is very dark. really open up the pores to the wood and try it out so it can take in stain, and do at least 2 passes. some people use lighter fluid as that prep work. and it dries fast. anyway, do your research to see what method works for you but these water based stains i mentioned are good. and they will come out dry so you'll need to oil up your board. never heard of using furniture wax on it. but it's not permanent so there shouldn't be any probs. it's a conditioner. and mostly only fades off in sunlight/outdoor conditions.)

Lol. Oh dear. That is the danger.

at least it is unique!

It wouldn't work on anywhere that has paint. Only bare wood

@@DavidImrie oh okay, i just bought a cheap fender player series Stratocaster, are most fretboards bare wood ?

Usually with fenders if it is a maple fretboard it will have some kind of lacquer on it but if it's a rosewood type it won't have anything on it.

@@DavidImrie oh ok thank you!

@@DavidImrie yes i just looked it up and mine is maple 😬

😅

LOL

Where are you based?

@@DavidImrie America

fiddes-usa.com/shop/wood-finishes/wood-dyes/naphtha-oil-stains/

Angelus leather dye :)

Shhh Billy Corgan will be after you 🤣🤣

Long format baby 😎🤣🤣🤣

How so? It still looks good 😊