Is Ai Mori TOO SHORT for this boulder?

Рет қаралды 9,538,294

Competition Climbing

Жыл бұрын

Пікірлер: 1 400

@vojtech2304 Жыл бұрын

This is definitely at least grade higher boulder for Ai.. more impressive than Janja!

@gasperstarina9837 Жыл бұрын

😂

@cham8050 Жыл бұрын

💯💯💯

@baddestmfborneastofthemiss3379 Жыл бұрын

More impressive than jar jar

@Lank1ster Жыл бұрын

KAJ SI REKU JANJI?!

@bootscats2928 Жыл бұрын

ai is too short for everything lmao

@JaxLittles Жыл бұрын

An example of why there needs to be height classes in competitive climbing.

@user-jh4gk6nw6v Жыл бұрын

a kid climbed a 9a. lmao. no there doesn't

@entitree. Жыл бұрын

@@user-jh4gk6nw6v that literally means nothing when obviously it depends on what the climb is, no?

@user-jh4gk6nw6v Жыл бұрын

@@entitree. You don't get it. is height an advantage. obviously. But with every sport there's advantages and disadvantages. Should they lower the net when a shorter basket ball player wants to score ? What about swimmers ? You definitely need to be blessed genetically to win but you can still compete even if you don't have the perfect body. Ai knows she probably will never beat someone like Janja and I doubt she'd want an easier climb to do it either.

@undineskrastina9787 Жыл бұрын

@@user-jh4gk6nw6vThere are weight classes in many fighting based sports, why couldn't there be height classes in climbing?

@entitree. Жыл бұрын

@@user-jh4gk6nw6v i take your point about Ai's personal preferences because honestly you're right, if she can prove that she can complete the climb despite having a height disadvantage, then that probably makes her feel super proud of herself and that's great! however, you just listed a bunch of sports that would be difficult to accommodate to different classes. you ignored sports that DO have different classes, such as weight classes in fighting sports, which work *incredibly* well. introducing height classes into climbing isn't a bad idea, because climbs can very easily be changed to accommodate for that. anyway, I'm not really that opinionated on whether their should or shout not be height classes, my main point in my original reply was just simply that saying 'a kid climbed a 9a' doesn't mean anything because, unless you specify which one, we have no grasp of whether that climb is height friendly or not, making your point null

@supercheetah778 Жыл бұрын

I always feel so bad for Ai because she just doesn't have the reach that other girls have, but so much more impressed when she finds a beta that works for her since she's forced to be more creative.

@lfc08adam Жыл бұрын

Because she is short she is also alot lighter. I dunno how much of an advantage that is at the highest level

@theredraider3860 Жыл бұрын

How did AI go from giving chat responses to full on video 💀

@tart6627 11 ай бұрын

@@theredraider3860what..?

@MisterK9739 9 ай бұрын

@@lfc08adam Being lighter doesn‘t help you that much when you can‘t reach the next hold statically. Of course height will always play role, as will weight, but it heavily depends on the route setting.

@kevinwoodrobotics 6 ай бұрын

yeah skills more important

@sethde10 Жыл бұрын

really hard final to enjoy when at least 3, maybe all 4, of the boulders were pretty height dependent and Janja is already the tallest competitor. poor setting.

@jahrazzjahrazz8858 Жыл бұрын

Yeah several of them were anywhere between much harder to outright impossible for smaller climbers, Rabatou also struggled with some moments where the taller climbers had an easy toe hook.

@tyrionas Жыл бұрын

@@jahrazzjahrazz8858well I wouldn't call that an easy toe hook, other climbers that were around janja's height didn't make it. And she's definitely not the tallest female climber out there. But yeah it was particularly difficult for shorter climbers.

@poolkrooni Жыл бұрын

@@tyrionas She was the tallest in that final and route setters know the finalists.

@tyrionas Жыл бұрын

@@poolkrooni they set routes way in advance even before the whole competition start. They don't know who's gonna be in final when they set them. Sometimes the finals are the same day than the semifinals, they don't go through the whole freaking process in a few hours. They have prepared the problems way in advance and they just put up the holds.

@DrakeLord91 Жыл бұрын

@@tyrionasthey can make (and have made in the past) micro-adjustments when putting up the finals set

@Felixnotpewdiepie Жыл бұрын

I never wanna hear anything about screw holes not being used after this.

@D3nn1s Жыл бұрын

Was thinking the same haha

@bluewolfchicken7310 Жыл бұрын

I used to use them all the time lmao

@majinosamabinladen2036 Жыл бұрын

Hey, if you can use them…

@SmileUponBalls Жыл бұрын

"If there's a hole, there's a goal"

@dawkosussybaka8190 Жыл бұрын

@@SmileUponBallsyou did not😨

@millacabral9475 Жыл бұрын

Boulder was too spread out even for some of the other climbers. They did her dirty in this final, man.

@trevorneuzerling9281 Жыл бұрын

Every sport advantages different physiques at different times. Just part of it.

@veryboliao Жыл бұрын

If the boulders were closer, wouldn't that also make it easier for janja?

@joshw604 Жыл бұрын

@@veryboliao lol no one said it wouldn't. the whole argument is that right now it disadvantages most people except janja

@millacabral9475 Жыл бұрын

@@veryboliao yeah sure, but it would be doable for the rest, and that's enough to even out the field, imo

@ryansharp3278 Жыл бұрын

@@trevorneuzerling9281 Exacty...This is what we keep telling poeple about Trans people....

@janekmundt579 8 ай бұрын

Ai s micromovements will surely catch on. She’s 18 yet she will already revolutionise bouldering competitions😮 She’s a genius

@megabiyyu Жыл бұрын

I understand the annoyance for Ai's fans with the sets that competition. But (a little bit sadistically) i look forward to seeing Ai Mori breaking betas of routes that clearly disadvantages her, especially when we can clearly see her thought process during the climb! Rly shows fantastic climbing IQ and gives a weakling like me hope 😂

@zsoltbartus169 Жыл бұрын

"But..." always these ridiculous "buts".

@AntonAdelson Жыл бұрын

Did you see the whole final?? W4 there was NO alternative betas there. You either reach the hold with your feet or you dont. Two climbers didnt. This is not even about Ai. Its just about bad routesetting

@Pennwisedom Жыл бұрын

She can't break the beta when it takes three minutes just to jump to the start hold.

@hapmaplapflapgap Жыл бұрын

I agree, but that requires some more complex boulders. If you force a climb too much there is no room for creativity anymore.

@tempest8920 Жыл бұрын

@@zsoltbartus169what are you on about 💀

@edge4063 Жыл бұрын

Janja has the reach but Ai has the main character energy

@scarlett8782 11 ай бұрын

I'm so glad Ai got her ticket to the Olympics. she more than deserves it after overcoming so many unnecessary hurdles thanks to totally unfair routesetting that excludes her. Ai has to work so much harder to top these boulders than a taller climber like Janya. I'm a big fan of Ai's determination and her refusal to give up, even when the rules and the routesetters are against her. congratulations to Ai Mori! I can't wait to watch her performance at the Olympics.

@theDutton 11 ай бұрын

I'm team Ai too, I want to see her static her way through a paddle dyno to get an Olympic medal. Its inspiring to see someone be successful with a completely different build and climbing style.

@L882-he Жыл бұрын

And tall guys at the boulder gym will literally tell you that height doesn’t make that big of a difference 🤪

@Veronicz Жыл бұрын

Like one of my friends who’s over 6 ft and says height doesn’t make a difference for running or swimming.

@requiemforameme1 Жыл бұрын

I’m 5’10”ish but have a 6’4” wingspan. I skip a lot of steps at gyms and sometimes make problems way harder than they should be. 😅 For competition it’s blatantly obvious tho… this problem is just “how wide can you stretch” with no other beta?

@ahadmerchant7510 Жыл бұрын

@@VeroniczFor running it honestly doesnt unless you're below 5'6. Almost every elite runner is average height.

@catsouplover7745 Жыл бұрын

@@ahadmerchant7510eight isnt what matters, its lenght of hamstring and hipextension muscles and insertions, which the taller you are the more likely for it to be long.

@blorblin Жыл бұрын

@@Veroniczrunning is more proportions than height.

@olafadams1650 Жыл бұрын

Mountain goats when they see a 90.1 degree cliff:

@Princess_Jessie3414 Жыл бұрын

It would be 90.1 degree 89.9 would be concave

@olafadams1650 Жыл бұрын

@@Princess_Jessie3414 ah true oopsy

@Princess_Jessie3414 Жыл бұрын

@@olafadams1650 this is quite possibly the nicest internet interaction I've ever had and that's sad. Good day sire

@olafadams1650 Жыл бұрын

@@Princess_Jessie3414 😄

@celanvaril6200 Жыл бұрын

when u have no enemies

@carlosdumbratzen6332 Жыл бұрын

i have to rely on this technique way too often in my gym. it is annoying when they only set for tall people

@sophfro Жыл бұрын

Same, the gym in my home town of Fresno is pretty good about making a wide variety of climbs for people of different heights but the one near my folks in Ventura you can tell is mostly set by taller people. It is so much more fun to climb in my home gym (plus I think a lot more inclusive and beginner friendly).

@grammas.sausages 10 ай бұрын

I think most setters set for their own body - so generally speaking, at least 5'9 with a neutral or pos ape index (since it's a male dom profession). It'd be interesting to get real stats though.

@alexanderboll8028 10 ай бұрын

Same from the other side. How often there are problems set with sit starts for small people, I don't even have to try. So many traverses that are set for average or small people ... Sometimes frustrating, sometimes fun because of the extra challenge and need for creativity -- as in this video.

@gabeitch9142 Жыл бұрын

Unfair situation and she still did it. Damn

@jhy8191 Жыл бұрын

Revenge of the short climber! 🏆

@GLEPCHANNEL Жыл бұрын

she’s holding the fucking atoms what

@lukasschallibaum5046 Жыл бұрын

Height classes! We need height classes. In boxing you have weight classes, why not height classes for bouldering

@crashvds777 Жыл бұрын

I feel like they should have height classes for running as well. Bc they might be fast but a 5’ runner has a distinct disadvantage to a 6’ runner

@fung4206 Жыл бұрын

@@crashvds777 sport fencing also favour to someone who has long arm / apx index

@leonthethird7494 Жыл бұрын

I think wingspan classes would make more sense or ape index

@LegiamasC-OnTwitta Жыл бұрын

@@crashvds777most runners are average height tho

@eventhoughimaloserandavirg3279 Жыл бұрын

@@crashvds777nahh no need for that in running

@notapplicable7292 Жыл бұрын

Ai mori is awesome

@V0rwArd Жыл бұрын

Same as in our gym - most routes are set for ppl 175cm+ - if you are shorter than this have fun with dynos...

@Triblss Жыл бұрын

Janja is like 163 cm

@V0rwArd Жыл бұрын

@@Triblss Ai Mori isnt XD

@TryNotToLie Жыл бұрын

@@V0rwArd ok buddy

@maidoesdumbshit8493 4 ай бұрын

Same though, I'm just beginning and am only 154cm and it's a pain-

@juancrazypotato234 Жыл бұрын

Her still pulling it off despite the reach disadvantage makes it even more impressive for me

@prashil3k594 Жыл бұрын

And she has the audacity to not even struggle.. This woman is something else

@xihua12370 Жыл бұрын

That tenacity she displayed is truly impressive!

@karuamai Жыл бұрын

Ai literally hang on air. It's amazing.. And her nonchalant face ❤😂

@Rabeaumbra Жыл бұрын

Damn! Great job!! You're doing us shorties proud!

@skskskrub 11 ай бұрын

that hold Ai did was sick

@Delaney-and-the-Starlight Жыл бұрын

Ai is so small! I can’t believe she used a dang screw to make this work!

@JustMeClimbing 11 ай бұрын

much respect for this insane method by Ai, my hat's off 🤯

@Qazikame Жыл бұрын

Something I liked about the climbing area at my college is the route setter asked me to test his route to see if I could make the move before he'd finalize it. He did this mainly because I was one of the shortest people available at 5ft 7in. Kinda rough to be called out as the shortest available climber but I'm glad that they want to include.

@Bahamut69 Жыл бұрын

There are at least 1 billion people shorter than you on Earth. being 2 inches shorter than average height isn't a problem

@Qazikame 11 ай бұрын

@gatordragon8824 I mean being short makes climbs hard but I've seen climber specific routing. It's rare but I spent 3 months learning how to do a climb set by a 5ft 2in girl at the gym. It was so hard because my knees were basically in towards the wall when I was climbing and some of the holds barely supported my weight even though I only weigh 152lbs she was 115lbs. I managed it and have been able to do it since but routes designed by or for short people are hard for taller people and vise versa. Most professional climbers are around 5ft 10in, the range for men being 5ft 7in to 6ft 1in while for women it is 5ft 2 and 5ft 6in. So I'd say being a short women makes it more than just difficult but if you really enjoy trying something that practically works against you, climbing would be a nice challenge. Especially if you show enough interest and talk to some route setters they may try to make some routes tailored to your height.

@Qazikame 11 ай бұрын

@Bahamut69 also I do understand that, I'm happy to be only slightly below average short but it's pretty apparent because almost 90% of all guys in our gym are taller than myself and 30% of the women are either my height or taller.

@TheRealPurpleHand Жыл бұрын

That was resourcefulness in its best form for Ms Mori.

@RoeskiRed Жыл бұрын

the setter was anti-ai

@warutait8346 Жыл бұрын

Fucking incredible. Good work

@_TheLegendaryT_ Жыл бұрын

She has insane shoulder muscle

@liammoon9309 11 ай бұрын

Ai is clearly more impressive and skilled in this situation since she overcame a much harder obstacle

@shovansgamingexperience8791 Жыл бұрын

Ai is amazing to watch indeed After queen and miho nonaka she is my favourite to watch

@arte6922 8 ай бұрын

She is amazing short people have disadvantage and yet she manages so well

@MissWildcat3.14 Жыл бұрын

YES, good on her. I'm also a female climber, 5'1" and not getting any taller lol

@Zoddom Жыл бұрын

How does this even happen? Dont the routesetters know the heights of all the climbers?!

@shirochansensei 11 ай бұрын

The finger strength is insane 😮

@sam-yau Жыл бұрын

W1 would've been a better example of the height discrepancy

@competitionclimbing Жыл бұрын

true but i also wanted to show her insane beta break, w1 was just kinda sad

@LetsChat Жыл бұрын

@@competitionclimbing Ai Mori will always be who I'm rooting for. But Janja deserves credit for being the best climber--even with terrible routesetting. I just would be nice to see more balanced routes--or routes that don't just favor height. The last finals was an embarrassment.

@xAmendaaa Жыл бұрын

Which one

@AntonAdelson Жыл бұрын

Yes, the whole final was infuriating. Worst routesetting Ive ever seen!

@DecisiveZoom Жыл бұрын

Just watching her jump for 5 minutes was brutal she obviously could have done it she almost got the zone the one time she managed to get it. I'm sure she hates people feeling sorry for her though

@ashernichols7418 Жыл бұрын

Rock climbing is such an underrated sport. It is so much fun.

@hapmaplapflapgap Жыл бұрын

Innsbruck this year did a really bad job of setting boulders this year. Not just the few boulders that required length, but even the mans boulders were generally uninteresting and one-dimensional.

@Bebe-rn2fh Жыл бұрын

Just googled it and Janja’s 5’5. She looked 6’ 😂

@Schell3092 Жыл бұрын

And Ai mori is 5.05 😳

@KC16A6 Жыл бұрын

props to AI Mori ! she overcame her short height by will, power and ingenuity !

@sinekonata 8 ай бұрын

Moriiiiiiiiii. Such a fan favourite.

@supremeleader69 Жыл бұрын

Never underestimate a Japanese person. They are built different.

@cwest394 Жыл бұрын

Competition should not come down to height advantage

@frameturtle Жыл бұрын

Even in a sport like track and field? Come on, its no secret that taller competitors have the advantage in many if not most sports

@jinri_p1042 Жыл бұрын

@@frameturtlebut we're not talking about damn track and field are we??

@rustyhowe3907 Жыл бұрын

@@frameturtle But the track and field isn't adjusted to accommodate a height, this set up is.

@afraidofwhatdonotbeafraid Жыл бұрын

@@dylanforrealin9539but does being short prevent you from playing football? No, this one clearly is preventing short people to compete

@kolga1855 Жыл бұрын

@@afraidofwhatdonotbeafraid Yes. Short people in the NFL do not exist. The fact that a 5'1" girl can be a professional climber is a testament to how much fairer climbing is compared to basically every other sport in regards to height. Most bouldering moves are actually easier for short people because they have a lot less mass. The tradeoff is that some moves become much much harder. And sure, this route is suited more towards 5'5" people (average women height). Some routes are better for short people, but if you design every route around the shortest competitor that punishs people for not being short

@peter_parkour 3 ай бұрын

Said "goddamn" out loud when that woman reached out and saw them lats. I don't know how I ended up in this side of KZfaq short but I'm glad I did.

@grey5135 Жыл бұрын

Thats next level skill and ability combined right there.

@elisakeller8912 Жыл бұрын

What if climing had height classes like wrestling has weight classes?

@bjdooi Жыл бұрын

Lowkey annoyed they kept zooming in on her fingers on that bolt hold- the real magic was that seemless foot switch which is infinitely harder

@earlgrey2130 Жыл бұрын

Lol what? Foot switches are easy

@darshitpatel8868 9 ай бұрын

Ai Mori!!! My GOAT

@I_Like_Turtles441 Жыл бұрын

The girl is gripping atoms at that point

@danthepapertowelman9255 Жыл бұрын

Mans literally holding on to air

@closair Жыл бұрын

That move was god mode.

@jayknuffke285 Жыл бұрын

Improvise, adapt, overcome. Love it

@crashbandicoot5636 9 ай бұрын

It doesn't matter how long it takes as long as you get there. Can't believe I picked up a life lesson from a rock climbing YT short 😂

@niravelniflheim1858 9 ай бұрын

What's really fun is Janja's only 5'6" but she looks so big and strong next to Ai 😅 Also their techniques are so different but play perfectly into their respective physiques, I like that so much

@user-oy2vp6tl3t Жыл бұрын

Whoa mori san is awesome ❤❤❤

@jwanger Жыл бұрын

Love watching Ai climbing so much!

@jesuschrist711 Жыл бұрын

that is the perfect demonstration of the mechanical power of your finger. your muscles help but the ability to partially lock your finger’s joints under stress can be taken advantage of to help aid in such feats. congratulations to Ai for thinking outside the box

@GReyn Жыл бұрын

As someone from asia (Indonesia), i can relate.. Here I'm taller than the average guy.. yet compared to foreigner, I'm like a little kid.. 175cm, that's around 5'4" if i remembered correctly..

@fatitankeris6327 Жыл бұрын

That's almost 5'9"

@lelouchvibritannia4235 Жыл бұрын

I love when people go another route then expected! It’s so exciting watching these kinds of videos!! I want to try bouldering some day!!

@michaelballard917 Жыл бұрын

Short king 👑

@jonasvigueras685 3 ай бұрын

She is a women

@mistsrider Жыл бұрын

Sadly, that wasn't even the worst one 😢

@antimatter5433 Жыл бұрын

Japan impress me a lot

@WildVee 9 ай бұрын

Yeah I'm sure it does. Nobody cares about Slovenia ever lol. Go figure.

@lordemarsh6804 Жыл бұрын

Now that's the real skill and determination right there

@damolaogunleye6341 Жыл бұрын

See the muscles on that first lady's back. Incredible!

@Erinam321 Жыл бұрын

Shouldn’t competitions like this and the walls they do be separated by height and length of legs/arms etc to make it fair competition?

@beans_thecat Жыл бұрын

I have a question. Why is Janja considered tall if she's only 1.64 m?

@sophiep7184 Жыл бұрын

Because she was the tallest (I think? Or second tallest?) In the final! She's not tall by any means but in the pool of pro climbers she is considered pretty tall

@beans_thecat Жыл бұрын

@@sophiep7184 thanks!

@emiliesmallbrain9171 Жыл бұрын

She also has a positive wing span if i remember right and thats the most advantageous bit

@hansa5867 Жыл бұрын

I'm not surprised it could do it. I am surprised we're now allowing AI in sports 🤖

@samw161 23 күн бұрын

janja literally does competitions for fun she’s so amazing and impressive! they all are!

@leapae9969 Жыл бұрын

ai mori was extremely let down and ROBBED by the poor setting that was very heavily disadvantaging short climbers. absolute disgrace, it should be agains the rules!

@miristtotallw Жыл бұрын

I've read some comments about the routes being set for climbers of average height (one said around 1,65m for women). And I think this definitely plays into it and is a totally valid explanation. But let's work with it instead of saying the competitors should just be able to deal with it. The average height in the USA is not even close to the one in Japan (just as an example). Does this mean that it is totally fine for route setters to favor their own countries' competitors? Meaning, if the final is in the US the routes require you to be around 1,65 m for the "easiest" beta. And if the finals are in Japan the routes are made for women around the height of 1,58 m. Is this what "fairness in sports" looks like? For every nation to stick to their own norms? Sadly I myself have no solution for those problems but I would definitely expect better handling of those things by route setters who create these boulders for big events like finales, indicating that they should have lots of expertise (and hopefully creativity).

@everythingsfinett3903 Жыл бұрын

Basically rigged game to make some competitors win. They do this so many times

@WildVee 9 ай бұрын

Janja isn't from the US, mind you. She's Slovenian. And she's 1.64cm

@miristtotallw 9 ай бұрын

@@WildVee I know. I didn't mean to imply any of those. Sorry for my bad choice of words, it really seems like I said she's a 165 cm American.

@zoinksscoob6523 Жыл бұрын

What a fucking legend

@willsok1668 Жыл бұрын

We need to make bouldering a more mainstream sport

@clintstechtips6571 Жыл бұрын

Short climbers are stronger than tall climbers. Fight me.

@distinctloafer Жыл бұрын

Depends are you shorter or taller than me?

@josefliu Жыл бұрын

Stronger , nah, some are more skill ... not all

@notglory7160 9 ай бұрын

It really just depends on your skill

@zsoltbartus169 Жыл бұрын

No. The boulder was built for tallers.

@StudioHannah 20 күн бұрын

I love watching Ai climb boulders, she has such different beta and it's often so clever

@Bmxrkid Жыл бұрын

Wonderful job, all my respect

@denmonlord Жыл бұрын

Gen cheat vs work hard🔥🔥

@zsoltbartus169 Жыл бұрын

Looking at the comments it shows how ridiculously discriminated, mocked and laughed at short people are. The boulders were obviously built in the favor of Garnbret who just happens to be the tallest of them?

@Noviro Жыл бұрын

They were simpl set by taller, male route setters. They didnt mean to specifically favor anybody. But there is a gender problem in routesetting for comps

@kuntaikoful Жыл бұрын

Janja is 1.64m so taller but not huge.

@WildVee 9 ай бұрын

Oh fucklng please. Go touch some grass. Janja did great and you're simply being racist and favoring here. She's not that tall lol.

@SrMorua Жыл бұрын

I didn't know about this competition until today, and less about Ai, but now I can say, that was sick, and for me, she is the best, just for being in such disadvantage and still reach it

@errera1 Жыл бұрын

These women are amazing

@Simon-qv9oi Жыл бұрын

At 1m64, I wouldn’t exactly call Janja a « tall » climber 😂

@zsoltbartus169 Жыл бұрын

Sure, cuz there are dozens of female climbers are there with 180cm.

@Simon-qv9oi Жыл бұрын

@@zsoltbartus169 that’s the point yes, pro climbers tend to be on the small to average range, rarely are they tall.

@Triblss Жыл бұрын

Except I swear the whole german female team are big

@user-hb4zz4gh5e 9 ай бұрын

@@Simon-qv9oiFor a climber she’s tall, since most climbers aren’t that tall.

@neondude Жыл бұрын

Isn't there height categories for rock climbing similar to weight category for fighting?

@ITSSKUDDUMMY 6 ай бұрын

This is the shit I love, overcoming physical limitations in sport and finding unique paths to success. Tony hawk is the reason we pop out of half pipes in skateboarding (I’m sure we would’ve done it eventually but he was the first) but niggas we’re just kinda flowing out and over the coping but Tony was too small to get enough moment and get big airs. So he starting popping ollies to get air like the other dudes and changed the sport forever. This obviously isn’t ground breaking to the sport but it’s super inspiring.

@danielchattin2154 Жыл бұрын

My hands were sweating

@Lokigh Жыл бұрын

Being short has its own advantages. There is a reason why you have elite athletes competing side-by-side who are 164cm and 185cm

@Boogieforme Жыл бұрын

It must be so challenging for routesetters to make a balanced set so that it's fair game!

@awdrifter3394 Жыл бұрын

It's probably most disadvantage in bouldering. But Ai does seem to have some advantage in lead, maybe due to her body being lighter and the lead difficulty is lower than bouldering.

@serbangroza Жыл бұрын

Small climbers usually have an advantage in holding small holds or keeping body tension, while I agree that it's not fun to have problems on which small climbers are disadvantaged, it is also not fair to remove the moves which give an advantage to the taller people and keep the ones which give an advantage to the smaller ones, in the end it's hard to say what's fair anyway, I would prefer to see boulders which are varied and play to each one's advantage

@fung4206 Жыл бұрын

@@serbangroza you can say small climber good on small hold, coz usually they have small finger. But how can you said small climber has advantage in keeping body tension, especially when the hold on hand and the hold on food is far away from it

@jurijvengust9074 Жыл бұрын

What are you on about? Garnebret is 1,64 m. Some segments are easier for some athletes some for others. That’s what sport is about.

@PS-nm8wk Жыл бұрын

At least two, arguably three of the final boulders (and even the semi-final boulder shown in this short) were that much harder for someone who isn't even that much shorter than the others (Ai is, if I'm not mistaken, around 10 cm shorter than Janja). I'm no expert on the other end of the range but I haven't read a single comment where someone tall complained that a certain boulder in that final was harder for the tallest in the group. The routesetters' job is to make the competition as fair as possible to the competitors present and they failed big time.

@jurijvengust9074 Жыл бұрын

@@PS-nm8wk Where one draws the line, why stop at 1,54, why not at 1,40? When talking about that, how about tall competitors, they could complain about awkwardness of the bolder sequences and now we have a new problem, don’t we? Is 1,9 a no go, 1,8? Yeh I didn’t here it either, but it’s still worth a thought! On the other hand should NBA lower the rims, which are unfairly high for the shorter players?

@PS-nm8wk Жыл бұрын

@@jurijvengust9074 climbing, as opposed to basketball, has people called routesetters. Their job is to make the comp as fair as possible. They knew who was going to be in the finals, it's only 6 competitors, and they weren't able to set a level playing field for all.

@PS-nm8wk Жыл бұрын

And yes, why not set a comp for 1.40 and see what the results look like then. Might be interesting.

@zombiecake11290 11 ай бұрын

my group never thought too much about height advantages until i started climbing with them, standing at a stellar 5 ft tall 😂 now it’s like a fun game for them to brainstorm methods on overcoming difficult routes for shorter limbs

@iamnel3141 11 ай бұрын

She looks too cute clinging like that 🤭🤩

@RomanGuro Жыл бұрын

just remember Janja Garnbret 164 cm tall)) She is not very tall either )))

@Deathranger999 Жыл бұрын

She’s on the taller end for female comp climbers. And just and inch or two can make a big difference.

@WildVee 9 ай бұрын

@@Deathranger999 And she did great. People are just being rude for no reason.

@Deathranger999 9 ай бұрын

@@WildVee Oh yeah of course. What I said is not meant to detract from her performance. She’s a phenomenal climber and deserves all her success.

@jonnenne Жыл бұрын

Sure, it is a bit more difficult because she is so short. But that is the name of the game. There is a boulder set and you get it or not. It doesn't matter if you were too inflexible, weak, short, tall, heavy, undynamic....

@trixter21992251 Жыл бұрын

but you can't practice and get better height. You can practice all the other things. Climbing is different from for example basketball, because climbing has *route setters*. They could've made less height-dependent problems, but they didn't.