Another super video. The narration that you added over your chopping segments to discuss "whipping the axe into the wood" was a nice touch.

I agree with a lot of what you said. I have not bought a new axe for myself yet. I love going to antique shops, thrift stores, and yard sales to see if I can find a nice old axe at a good price. I just got a $12 Plumb national pattern boys axe. I am looking forward to grinding and hanging it.

Appreciate the honest and well thought out video. I do love my Gransfors Scandinavian, but I agree that it is not the end-all be-all of axes (no axe is, imo). Axes are like knives and potato chips... can't have just one, lol. Good content. New subscriber here.

I like a big sharp axe I cannot lie, my brothers in the woods will not deny, with a swing and a whirl the chips do fly, I like a big sharp axe I cannot lie.

KZfaq is recommending all your old videos! No complaints. I happen to really like that hook on the Gransfors palm swell. Could be the way I grip it is different from yours, but it doesn’t irritate my hands at all. I like that it gives me the feeling of a very secure mechanical connection to the handle. Definitely agree on Gransfors position in the market. The “bushcraft” axes they sell are a luxury item somebody would buy if they want an axe with a story. Their timber framing tools though are 100% different. Best on the market and in some cases ONLY new tools on the market. Their broad axe (and carving axes for that matter) are a work of art and better than anything else out there by a country mile. Second best is maybe Biber (who still trip hammer forged a lot of stuff), but isn’t nearly as functional or pleasant to use for hewing/carving

I own a granfors and honestly- its a meme. What isnt a meme? The quality of your vids. Keep rockin kev ur a legend🤙

Love this video, talk about axes and Hemingway................too much win. I like GB axes a lot because i went on a tour of the factory, watched them make them and met the super cool and passionate guys working there. No other reason to be honest. That being said my favourite axe i own is vintage GB i got from Owen. I know they are not the best. I totally get your frustration. On the plus side, now i saw your lunch i know what im having for dinner tomorrow. Man, that looked really tasty. Really enjoying browsing my way though you channel.

Hi Kevin, stumbled upon your channel and really enjoy the content. So much so that I subscribed! I certainly consider myself a novice to axes and have very limited experience. Just a few questions: 1) being inexperienced, if I had the GB Scandinavian axe and didn’t want to shave off the belly or the hook at the knob end, could I wear leather gloves when using the axe to prevent blood blisters? 2) How usable out of the box is the Hults bruk Kisa? I know you said in a previous video that the Hulls Bruk Kisa isn’t worth it, you would go for the GB scandi or the Husqvarna modified. I don’t have tools (such as a belt sander) and knowledge nor experience to properly service/modify the axe. My thinking was to just start using the axe and over time learn to do customizations and modifications. I would mainly use the axe for camp duty, some limbing, some bucking, some splitting, primarily with logs and trees already fallen over or on the ground.

I agree that turning an old ax head into a usable ax is a great learning experience. I’d take that a step further and say that screwing up a head/ax (or 2 or 3) and carefully examining where you went wrong would improve your understanding even more than doing one perfectly. Unfortunately we’ve been conditioned throughout our lives to not make mistakes (the dreaded red pen marks in school for example). Letting go of that notion is liberating and really let’s you learn. A personal example I like to share was when I learned how to make a Shaker style chest of drawers with hand cut dovetails and inset drawers. The carcass and drawers were dovetailed together. By the time I was done with that four drawer chest I’d made 5 drawers, 8 sets of drawer guides and runners, 2 tops, and 1 1/2 bases. It looked good when I was done and I learned a lot in the process. Amusingly enough I entered it in a woodworking show’s beginning woodworker category and won a ribbon. Only I knew about all the mistakes. I didn’t consider the rejected pieces of wood wasted either. They were an investment in my education.

The one thing that I like about Gran Fors’s axe is it is carbon steel and not soft stainless. I own over ten axes, most True Temper, before I bought a Gran Fors Bruk Small Forest Axe. I did not like the finish on my SFA, so I bond it, sanded it and put a new finish of boiled linseed oil on it. If I had the money I would get a Scandinavian Forest Axe. Not that I don’t have a good axe of the same size - I do. I have a 1970 era True Temper Boys axe that is of the same weight and length. I usually don’t process wood with an axe. I have plenty of Stihl chainsaws to do that.

Great stuff - thanks.

I have a GB, HB, S&N, CT, Collins, B&C, Lamaca, etc. some were new, some are "vintage" but to me it all comes down to what are you going to do with it and how will it fit you. I have to agree that restoring an old head and learning how to sharpen it, hang it and shape a handle will definitely make you a more rounded, versatile and educated axe user. You bring up great points to consider. Thanks Kevin!

Hi Kevin, I came across your video and I'm looking for some advice. I have a few old axe heads, a Kelly true temper that is pitted all over the entire bit and blade, and a double bit collins that was my grandfather's in Michigan however I believe it has lost its temper as when I used it, it deformed the edge heavilyy. I live in Utah and I need an axe mostly for camping for splitting wood and such. I can throw it in the back of my truck so weight is not an issue. My question is, without a belt sander how can I restore the kelly true temper's blade? Part of me wants to just find a GFB American Felling axe or a Basque Axe. What are your thoughts? I know how to hang and restore a head as I've done that with my grandfather's collins but I do not have power tools like a belt sander. Money is not my biggest concern, getting a quality tool is. Thank you for not being a religious freak like Wrangle Star.

Great vid very well put together. Never owned a granfors, but from looking at them to me they seem very use-specific. Ive been tempted by the AFA but I like heavier, chunkier heads for use here in Aus. If they brought out a Tassie pattern id go for it, and happily mod it to my own specs. I do like supporting smaller businesses though, but personally HB seems better value to me.As far as vintage vs modern, I mostly go vintage because its satisfying bringin one back, you gotta mod a new one anyway, and mostly the patterns are more up my alley. Btw is that the bushradical knife? Still goin strong?

Great video Kevin I myself don't own a gransfors axe but like most people who see them I get that magpie syndrome of I gotta have the shiney 😉 but in my observation of their use I think people forget what part of the world they are designed for with the exception of their American felling axe and up I personally think they are designed mainly for silver birch which is the predominant species of tree they use in there stoves in Scandinavia and because of the cold never grow as thick as say oak or locust in warmer climates just my two cents on it

I have the Gransfors Bruks small forest axe. I got it a few years ago because I figured I wouldn't be able to properly restore other axes without having experienced a "proper" axe first. It came nice and sharp (right out of the box) and is fun to use, and did give me a bit of experience with axes. However, I probably would've been fine without it. I don't have a problem with the axe, but I agree that it doesn't deserve the cult following it has. Thanks for mentioning the handle end giving you blisters...here I just thought my hands were wimpy!

Cutting firewood really helps your golf game, because it strengthens your wrist release.

Well, I´m an old craftsman and had to use really poor tools in the beginning, which were given to me by my first employer. It was a pita to work with and they failed all the time. That´s why I started to buy my own tools pretty soon and looked for quality. I have and use tools which satisfy me, which I have a pleasure to look at, take them in the hands and use it with confidence and a bit of pride. I love it. So what is that worth against the way I had to start? For me it is priceless, ymmv. I have now 3 GB´s and see more coming in the future.

Because i have not seen others appreciate it enough, i love your Thumbnails.

I have only old axes. Not because I think old steel is better but because I inherited a few old ones and the ones I've bought were inexpensive to obtain. Most needed thinning on the head to chop efficiently. I just bought a nearly unused 3 1/2# Woodings Verona '04 single bit Michigan head for $10 at an antique store. A $20 32" handle which I'll likely thin down a little and it's good to go.

Depends on availability I reckon the US has far better options when it comes to vintage than the UK. I mean I got lucky with my hunting and found a good Helko made Bahco boys axe that I've filed down and it's a very well designed head almost like an Aroostock wedge I think its called. Works very well in a variety of woods. I also found the Hultafors Agdor chopping axe does have the turpentine style but does have a slight centreline it's really nice to use.

The head on my scandinavian forest axe came loose too. I have noticed that GB have stopped putting a metal step wedge in, not sure if this has anything to do with the fit being suspect. That said I thinned the handle down so the handle was at the mercy of the North Devon weather while I was re coating it. I use mine if I am just out doing stuff, it's great and can do most things ok. If I am working then I have a few more dedicated axes for the various jobs( all of which are old heads re hung, apart from one splitting axe) . I was given my scandi and if I am honest I wouldn't pay that much for one myself as it would need to come with free beer and flip flops to get me to part with that amount of cash. That said I use it alot and enjoy it. Jumping the head on and putting a barrel wedge in or the knowledge that that's all it needs is just as important as seeing a loose head and going straight to removing it and fitting a new one. I don't want there to be a best axe in the world...my missus might make me get rid of all my others.

Picked up my first one this Xmas. looks nice, feels great, but when I took down my Xmas tree and brought it outside to burn it I got a chip in the axe while trying to chop up a 3” diameter tree.

Looking for handle suggestions. So far the “quality” makers I’ve found are, whiskey River, beaver tooth & east coast lumberjack.

really great video! Btw If the handle of the gransfors came loose it means it is flawed an gransfors will probably give you a new one

Ok I’ve bought three axes from GB and won’t be buying anymore. All three axe bits have had small chips and as you know a handle fracture. So why do I buy GB? Because it’s “cool” to buy something that’s considered “hand crafted” and I like to support that tradition. Problem is they are not hand crafted but stamped. I’d buy a $1000 axe if it was “hand forged” even though it was similar in design and performance as a $25 axe. And all because I like to support small niche production.

How did you remove that dumb hook swell? My HB Montreal has one and i hate it lol

good video, I agree with what you said and it makes sense for the US where you guys have quite a lot of cheap old heads still. For me I still think the best thing for an axe noob here to do is buy a cheap hultafors or council tool and tune it up, it at least gets you out chopping without having to hang the axe and they are very inexpensive. It also prevents you from buying a dud vintage head with crooked forging, abused poll, mashed eye and worn bit. It takes some trial and error to get a good eye for what is good and what is shit with vintage. When I started buying old axes i bought some real lemons and overpaid greatly, might put someone off all together trying to get a real piece of shit to chop. Nice council tool or hultafors gets you a £50 or less axe that needs work but is very serviceable. If you start looking at gransfors and stuff that is £100 plus as a solution such as gransfors, vintage hands down wins. My super nice NOS 4lb Brades axe, which I will go as far to say is one of the best axes I have ever used, cost me far less than a gransfors that still needs work. Vintrage axes have sure gone up in price here and elsewhere, but not yet overtaken the total rip off that is some of these 'hand forged' options. One thing I would say, is the guy who doesn't want to learn skills and just wants perfect out of the box is a red flag to me. it shows a lack of willingness to learn and I doubt they will take research into proper technique and safety very seriously as well. Bieng a good axeman takes a lot more learning than people realise and as we have seen time and time again one moment of stupidly, ignorance or plain dumb luck can cause serious injury.

Nice framing on that opening shot. Honestly, if I had to start over learning how to use an axe, I'd go with a Fiskars. The one thing I'll say for Fapoff is that they can take way more abuse than anything else. Still not worth the money unless you're a professional and you put a GPS tracker on the 10mm.

You’re a smart guy brother. The cult gathering comes from the sentiment of love and adoration because the subject has served them well. Though there is others to admire; the heart has already been attached.

I agree with you 100% on this subject. Get an old one and learn. The Snap On thing is correct too. Gearwrench or decent company will do 96% of a SnapOn. I am a heavy equipment mechanic and I have a few things that do require the last 4% at 200% the cost. Like any craft there's a bell curve. A 5$ hammer will work for most of us but a framer will notice the improvement of a 200$ titanium hammer

I got your point on vintage vs new axes 100%. I agree. But saying that GB has no merit because of the axe cult created behind it is not fair. GB is a great company that makes great axes and has been doing it for a long time. I like GB axes a lot but I do agree with many of the premises that you made other than that. Cheers!

“It’s fun to use” is a really good reason.

The rule in business is to charge what the market will bear. G. Bruk is lucky to have an aura around it that permits the company to charge the very most. In reality, axes of half the cost have similar steel and production methods, though perhaps the ultimate finish be little less thorough.

I came for the axes but stayed for the sausage. (sorry, I was In the 8th grade once too) I just got my first Gransfors as a Christmas gift, the SFA. I honestly don't see why its the subject of so much controversy. I'm sure it will work just fine at the campsites this year.

You finally hit on the real use for the bushcraft axe at the end of the video. It's light and easy to pack for miles. It's not meant for felling huge fir trees. No axe with a 20 inch handle is meant for felling and splitting cord after cord. So it's very good at what it is intended to do. Just not what you want to do. I would say it's way overpriced here in the USA. I also agree that many handles have to be tuned to the body that's using the tool.

Sorry for this short stubby comment, but Granfors Bruk last time i visited there site has axes for pretty much every task you can think of and some more.

I personally love this pattern and its like for some reason. Just wish the edge was an inch longet haha.

and what about helko werk compared to the gransfors in terms of quality etc? i see that gransfors use recycled steel and temper with water. helko uses premium steel and oil to temper. cheers again for ur vids

I definitely think GBA is alot of hype. They make a quality product, but people assign an almost mythical status to the brand. Even after rehanging, thinning the handle and reprofiling the bit of a Scandinavian Forest Axe, I wasn't happy with its performance. As you said, a Council boys axe will out perform given the same time and labor. If you have to do similar work to either one, why pay $200 instead of $50? GBA are sexy AF, but if you really like the look, hunt down an old Swedish axe in that pattern and put the work in. The super thin, hollow cheeks just kill it for me. I was able to reduce how bad it stuck on the hardwoods I cut, but it was still the worst I have used. Most of the old Swedes in this pattern that I've had dont have that problem. I mean, Woodslasher boys axe heads are common. One that is tuned up will cut circles around a GBA for pennies on the dollar and similar weight, but Ray Mears didn't say it was cool....

Is there an invisible “s” in Bruk?

How dare you! You monster! JK! You make some great points in this video and hopefully folks will look at the bigger picture. In my opinion, I feel the GB edge geometry is better suited for soft woods like they have. Here In America where we have mostly hardwood, I feel the more convex edge is better suited. Also like you said, it depends on what your doing with the axe. There isn't a such thing as "only one axe" .

I'm hardly vocal with this media, but here's my two cents; opinion and experience. First off, it's cool to have and show off this axe and be an in- the- know bushcrafter. Mostly I think it's just for the price tag and to flex to your friends that are into this kind of thing. Post pics on your dozen different accounts. Experience wise, I've never owned a gransfors so im no zealot of this opinion, but hey, I like thinking im against the grain. Speaking of experience, with those light weight boy's axe weighted axes, I replaced a handle on one from the original with a full sized handle. I just trimmed some length off and the overall package is about thirty inches with a 28 inch handle. I prefer that way over the original 28 inch handle the axe came with. For me the granfors sfa is in the grey muddy misshapen area of handle length, 18 to 28 inches. In context, I'm speaking about using the tool for felling, limbing and bucking. A handle going from 28 inches to about 32 inches is my sweet spot for these tasks with a 2 and 1/4 pound head to a 4 pounder. It's long winded to get around to, but from me to you Kevin, I've watched all your content with the exception of two videos. I appreciate what you have to offer and will hear you out. I agree with the fundamentals that go with swinging. Learn to sharpen, replace your axe handles by rehafting or making from scratch and shaping slimming them to your preference. I believe you're right in the conclusion that the gransfors offerings are a little too finished as far shaping their edge goes. Almost to the point of making them one trick ponies. Using each of these tools, we all have our ways of liking our edges just right after we sharpen and set them up. I think gransfors takes too much of that away. Later and keep safe. With your swing and your toes bud.

A new axe has no history ..I much prefer to find a vintage head and hang it myself..good points

I think the gransfors and other swedish brands get a lot of undue attention because it's "exotic" and old worldy and they have good marketing but to me council tool makes way better axes in their velvicut series for comparable prices but even the sport utility if you don't mind putting your own edge on it. Marbles makes good axes too out of El Salvador for an even lower price point

Generaly, all the newer made tools are worse in terms of quality, than the older ones. Knipex,Victorinox,Leatherman, Axes....I got many tools and most of these, I use them in my job. The difference in quality, is more than noticable. The older the better.

Hemingway was abused by his mother. It shows in his work, and says quite a bit about the people who enjoy his work. Tell us where the Gransfors Axe hurt you.

Who makes "the best axe in the world"? 😎

I have too many axes to count ... 6 of which are gransfors Bruk. They are in no way shape or form over rated. Best axes out there BY FAR. IMO of course. I never had a loose head or broken handle. And the steel quality is just un matched. EDIT- sager chemical axes might be a bit better ... but they are not being made anymore. Also what I think makes people like GBA, is the makers mark

All these axes are stupid in price, especially GB. Is was ok until these axes broke $100-$120 range. Thinking back my Wetterlings were on the $60-$75 dollar range. I've no intention of supporting GB again and will stick to the affordable Council Tool line.

I have to say, the reason being you like council Boys axe more than gransfors forest axe, im disappointed. Have them both, and the gransfors is a much much higher quality. But thats meanings for ya, they are like the Ass. Split in the middle

Yeah... polish it off.

Gransfors Bruks axes are thin and weak axes for thin and weak men 😂 but seriously it really is the quintessential LARPer axe. They fool people by not disclosing their metallurgy, and just labeling it as "swedish steel" when in reality the tests done by third parties have shown it to be equivelent or inferior to 1050 which is the low tier of axe steels. Council tool on the other hand makes their pack axes from 5160 steel which virtually no other axe makers use. It is the most superior of axe steels available. On top of that, Gransfors quality is almost always lacking. That the name of the game though when you try to make a mass produced axe look handmade.