If it works or not, let us know below

Can confirm changing the cable works. Had my shifter for 3 years, had mis shifts after about 12 months tried all the fixes with the isolation of the small PCB to no avail. Replaced the RJ cable with zero miss shifts for 2 years

I had a similar issue when I first set up my rig and couldn't calibrate it either. The fix that worked for me was quite simple: I removed the shifter from the rig, performed the calibration while holding it in my hands, and then remounted it. Since then, I haven't experienced any mis-shifting problems. It's definitely worth a try if you're facing similar issues. Hope this helps! 👍😊

This simple solution worked for me - thanks so much!

Mine was the PCB. Changed the screws to nylon + washers and not had an issue in 2 years.

Currently i had also the miss-shifting problem. I taped some kapton tape behind the two pcb's. This fixed my problem for now. Now it works flawlessly.

Had this issue off and on and I put plastic washers to block the CSL DD from direct metal to metal contact on my rig and this has been working flawlessly when connected to the CSL DD shifter port.

yep, that's how I solved mine years ago. sticking it into the wheelbase literally blew my wheelbase PCB from my experience. the cost for RMA from Malaysia was really really expensive even though it was still under warranty at the time. been using the USB ever since.

It did work for me too. It's connected to the PC, not the base and it works like a charm. Thanks!

I had a cable issue with Clubsport V3 pedals when I used them on a CSL DD. Every now and then it would start registering a little bit of constant braking (looking really like a noise signal), and I'd need to unplug/replug the cable on the wheel base. Later I upgraded my base to a DD1, and it came with a new cable with a ferrite choke for the pedals (and they state "use this one, not the old one!"). The issue never happened again.

I tried the tape fix and new lead but still had no r 1 3 5 7 but 2 4 6 worked fine on inspection the inner micro switch was out of alignment I carefully straightened the roller lever to match the other switch checking it’s operation for all gears. Rebuilt back into case and worked 1st time. I can say the new rj12 lead definitely made a difference that gave me the 2 4 6 gears back straight away. I am going to contact Fanatec to see if I can get the micro switch board. Mine is one of the first with a potentiometer fitted. I hope this helps its 10 years old and still works like a dream now.

it works, I tried the cable from the pedals to the shifter, it worked immediately. I put the old cable back in and it works too :D

i had the same problem out of the box. Swapped the cable with the one that came with my CSL peddles and problem fixed. I then made my own cable and I've never had an issue since

The tape solution worked for me.

I had the same issue!! What I found at the time said to unbolt the top of the shifter to unplug and plug back in a small connector inside as silly as it sounds. I haven't had an issue since it doesn't make sense, but it's been working😅

Mine has been flawless for about 4yrs but suddenly started doing this last night. I changed cable, recalbrated and sure enough it has fixed it.

My fix was to re align the magnet on the inside. It shifts after a few years and needs re alignment. It is very small rod about 1/16 dia x about 1/4 long. There is a video about this that is a few years old.

I bought the complete Fanatec Ecosystem DD CSL , CSL Elite V2 pedals the handbreak and the shifter. My shifter never has worked more than 2 weeks faultlessly . It went in for repair twice and after 2 Weeks, we were back again having miss-shifts. I did all they asked me to do, even grounding the rig. I even tried using ferrite cores on all the cables possible. Nothing helped. And it didnt matter if I used the USB adapter or I used it on the wheelbase. Finally I bought a Moza shifter, and my pain is gone. For the rest of the fanatec products I have, I'm very happy with them, but the shifter was a nightmare.

Same. Shifter went back to fanatec for repair for a mis shift. Comes back with a new cable the shielding on it. Zero issues now.

i'll absolutely try this when i get home. i've tried every fix i could find and ive always had mine randomly selecting reverse when i want 1st, 3rd, or even 5th. i JUST got my new moza shifter and its not bad but if i can actually fix the fanatec one then ill be selling the moza

Six years using the Fanatec shifter and really happy with it, even tough i've experieced some problems. It hapoens again from time to time, but after trying everything i've discovered a really silly fix: turn it onto sequential shifting, moving the stick back and forth a pair of times and returning to H, aaaaaaand... Magic! 🤦🏻‍♂️😂😂

I will be interested to see how this ages. I just ordered myself a ClubSport shifter and I'm anxious to try it out.

I just remove the top of the shifter, then put it back and it solves this strange static issue. Once in three-four years. Not regarding it this shifter is a beast. I have used it for 8 years now and this is the only issue sometimes.

I had no problem so far with the Fanatec shifter, I had it for over a year mounted on a Playseat and connected to a wheelbase (no usb, working on console). Now is mounted on a proper profile rig, I used nylon washers for the rig mount, then a ground wire on the shifter body. Plus the whole rig has another ground wire, as the DD wheelbase and the seat fitting too. Everything is bolted on an exposed end of the profile and from here goes a ground wire attached to a wall plug… the plug is obviously stripped of the power terminals. One and half year, zero issues.

Just started having this issue last weekend and been looking for a solution (I was gonna try the electrical tape) but I’m about to replace my CSL DD pedals to the V3’s so I’ll use that cable and report back even though I know this video is now 9 months old.

I purchased my Clubsport shifter and my CSW 2.5 wheelbase secondhand and haven't had the issue. It could also be because I don't have any Fanatec pedals because I have the Thrustmaster T-LCM pedals plugged directly into my pc.

i gonna try today 👍

Have you tried ferrite around cables?

Fanatic is great, sadly they are plagued with some minor issues. I couldn't (still can't) update my engine driver and my Wheel update. I think the issue is my pedal V3, as soon as I disconnect it I can do it, but connected, my program for the update freezes without successing. I had sent my Wheel Base and Wheel to Fanatec about 4 times. They couldn't find the problem and my pointing to the Pedals did nothing. They just said I should send them the wheelbase again and after that I was feed up with the customer service. Next Wheel will mostly be like Moza or Logitech again. Maybe even Trustmaster.

The Fanatec shifter adapter has fixed all three of my #Fanatec shifters, no missed shifts in four years.

The Fanatec shifter adapter seems to have fixed all of the problems that I have had with this shifter. Aside for trying to get the shifter centering spring (that broke) from #Fanatec customer service. I've been trying to get spare springs for two months now.

Could you please recommend a shifter handbrake combo? I have two setups with fanatec csw 2.5 and csl dd wheels. One at a desk and one on an old obutto ozone rig. Flexible on price and brand but leaning towards value. Would like 3 devices H, sequential and handbrake for use on pc. I have a th8 shifter but that's it.

Thx for the video. I just bought the fanatech shifter 5 minutes ago and was looking on youtube : fanatec shifter calibration / installation found your video ! I hope I will not experience this problem (the shifter will be connected to the wheelbase and did not buy the adapter). So in any case, if happening, I will buy a rj12 cable on amazon. Finger crossed but thx for the info !

Can also confirm that this works tried it works perfectly since a week

I just ordered shifter and handbrake to complete my fanatec setup... yep me again the recent subscriber catching up on your content lol. Is this still an issue if so I'm thinking a snap on ferrite that goes on cable should help with electric interference.

This is quite an easy fix. Unscrew the 4 bolts on the top of the shifter. Then disconnect the 4pin connector, and reconnect it, it should fix it sence it resets the board. This "shuffle" issue is due to static build up in the shifter, this is caused because metal on metal friction. Ive had the fanatec shifter for 3 years now, had this issue once. I hope this helped! Its an well known issue.

Soooo you all are saying RJ12 but FANA website says RG12 All the RJ45 I'm seeing anywhere are 8pin, the cable in my FANATEC shifter is 6 pin. Anyone know what I'm missing here?

I get this problem every few months, will try a cable next time.

my problem is when shifting into 5th, unless i actually hold the shaft to the right, it thinks that it is in 3rd, then flickers between 3rd and 5th? its strange and now i can only use it with damage off, otherwise it just fries the clutch

I've had so many problems with all my fanatec gear that I can't remember but I believe I had a problem with my shifter it would not calibrate tried a bunch of tricks on the internet nothing worked I think I changed the cable and problem fix. I haven't had a problem since. I hope I didn't just jinx myself.

My whole DD set is very sensitive to EMI. FFB jumps, miss shifting, buttons random not working. Probably because I have open bench for my PC. There is no shield of PC case to cover all high power components. I redo the cable management of DD to avoid PSU and monitor power cords. Plug into the usb port that is far away from PSU. Untie all cables, separate them. Put wi-fi antenna to the opposite side. Then everything is good. $0 spent.

Man oh man, I wish evga made sim products. Fanatec as been letting me down lately. Btw that’s a RJ12 connection, im showing my age. The RJ12 is a telephone connection like a LAN line.

I changed the cable, and it still happens, but no as often as before.

what worked for me was unplug from shifter 1 and plug the same cable on shifter 2 on csl DD. Maybe a coincidence, but the issue started after a base driver update

I can't remember if it was the shifter or the pedals but the manual for one had a weird message about using a very specific cable (that came with the add-on or the wheelbase, I forget which). I thought it was odd because why would it matter which RJ12 to RJ12 cable you used? And why would they be supplying some that were different/better than others, instead of all the same? Wonder if it's something related to this.

​My Fanatec gearbox worked without a problem, a few days ago it started to fail, when I engage gear 1 it enters R, if I engage gear 2 it flashes between 1 and 2 constantly. I have tried everything I have seen on KZfaq: 1: open the gearbox, clean the two plates with isoprolytic alcohol. 2: put insulating tape behind the plates. 3: check that the magnet is centered. 4: change the rj12 cable. 5: isolate chais with ground connection. Well today I realized what caused my error in the change. This is simply when starting the EA WRC game, then even if you close the game it is already uncalibrated and with false positives. If I do not start this game, the change does not cause false positives, verified with a fanatec program on another monitor. I have updated the program to its latest version 4.55 the firmware of the change is 1.12 From what I deduce that many users do not know why the change fails over time, in my case it has been this and I don't know how to solve it, I already deleted everything related to this game and I have reinstalled having the same problem.

Fanatec should do a new revision of this shifter, very soon.

Always had it connected through the USB and had mishifts in some gears. I installed the fanatec drivers and calibrated it and had no issues ever since

Hi, I just received the shifter yesterday and I'm having trouble shifting 1 and 5 because they are next to reverse and 7, sometimes it works but very often it doesn't. Do you think this is a similar problem? I don't think I'm making a mistake when I change gears.

Does anybody have any RJ12 cable Amazon recommendations? Please drop some links. Would like to get a high quality cable to increase my chances that this will work. Thanks!

just received new cables today, try it...nope the problem still exists. 😔😔 electrical tape🙅🏼‍♂ change cable 🙅🏼‍♂Mis shifting, Seq shifter still error🤦🏼‍♂🤦🏼‍♂hope to find the solution

That's how I fixed mine years ago too, just used the usb adapter.

Funny how I’m in the market for one and this pops up. Should I not bother?

Has anybody had the shifter stop working it’s not recognized by any game or the Fanatec control panel tried changing cable didn’t work I’m thinking of getting a rj12 to usb adapter and trying to plug directly to my pc it’s only a year old as well I don’t really use it much either

Fanatec sent me a new cable with ferrite beads worked for a while then back to the issue again. I tried usb adaptor too. Works for a while then back to same issue. Could it be magnetic drift? I'm almost ready to find another shifter. The thing is though when it works I love it! This issue has been very allusive to find do to the fact I can't make it happen...It just happens when it wants too. All I had to do to get mine working again is undo the 4 bolts give it a twirl and put it back together and it goes to working. I'm baffled. Maybe if we got together and sent them all back to fanatec they would get the message and come up with a solution??? Haha not gonna happen...thx for the post though

When I shift to 3 sometime my shifter go to R

Didn‘t work for me. My shifter is getting a RMA now.

I just got mine out the box and it’s doing this damn do I feel played🤦🏽‍♂️

I think this issue probably just like the problem on the load-cell pedal(electrical signal flickering), all you need is make the pedal set grounding.

I've always used mine via the USB connector and suffered with mis-shifts a lot. I opened it up to discharge static and that worked for a day or so but no permanent fi. I finally added the electrical tape to the circuit boards on mine a few months back and it's been great since then.

The problem is known, watch this video on the "nagaracing" channel from 05:40, the title of the video: "Je visite le SETUP SIM RACING d'un abonné (c'est un perfectionniste)" You have to ground the base, by connecting it to an electrical outlet ... but it is possible that several problems give the same result, so that this wire does not work all the time .... Personally, I am for the trash or not to buy... 😅😂😮‍💨

to solve your problem buy an USB Isolator works like a charm

The cable must be a six pin not a 5 pin connector if connected to the wheel base.

Update as of 11-2023 Update to this post from my stand point: I think Fanatec has fixed this issue with the latest firmware update. Ever since the release I have not experienced any issues at all with the shifter mis shifting and it has been over 2 months now. Firmware version: Wheelbase 1.1.8.5. Now if I do experience any mis shifts I will update this comment again. But it seems this issue is finally resolved. Update as of Last Post...Today's date 3-19-2024. I have NOT had any issues mis shifting since my original post. I need to mention though just in case, I do have mine plugged into the wheel base. Now if I do experience any mis shifts I will update this comment again.

I have fixed this 10 different ways. It always comes back eventually... Next time it happens I'll try the pedal cable. But again. It just comes back eventually. The only thing that always works is connecting it through USB. But i don't want that to be the solution as I like to jump on Console sometimes and i NEED it to be connected through the base. Not to mention i am always running out of USB ports.

prolly the wires are not shielded good in cable bundle and bleeding interference.

I just got my shifter on Blackfriday and really thinkin about sending it back. Seeing this here just adds up to the fact that it feels kinda unprecise and not at all realistic to switch between the gears, the SQ shift has too much resistance and the top end looks like an oversized dildo. All that for 250€ ?? seems like a rip off. Its solid metal- thats all good I can say about it so far.

I've ordered RJ45's on Amazon and been using those since without issue

OMG if this fixes it I'm going to throw it into the wall I pray to the baby jesus I don't.

I have the same issue and is plugging directly to my PC via USB cuz my wheelbase isn't Fanatec. So don't think this is the root cause. Maybe Fanatec just made a crappy shifter.

I’ve been using it strictly on usb. Mainly because I have a Thrustmaster wheel, and I have had zero issues.