Just some advice from a marine engineer that doesn't want to see you stranded. I would highly recommend adding fender washers that have more width/shoulder to them. 7:45 What you are using now will pull through the beam over a short period of time. If you can find a shop that has some 1.5 - 2 inch wide SS flat bar that you can have across the beam being used by both bolts it will give you a higher clamp force and stability. This would be your best route.

Every time I watch I'm terrified something is going to fall through spaces in between the deck boards. :D

Here's a suggestion for the rounded bottom of the mast step bracket....have a machine shop mill it flat. Looks like lots of metal there and should be an easy job and relatively inexpensive to true up the bottom surface. Having a flat surface would save you a lot of time and aggravation when mounting that piece.

Use a pilot drill (or two) to progressively drill larger holes to the finished size. One large drill can create work-hardening of the stainless so by pilot drilling, you do most of the work with the outer edges of the drill bit.

Great to see me dad's old workmate and some of my tools getting some good usage. 💪👍

Don’t feel bad you’ve no more content, watching you make any progress each week is proof enough you are moving forward to be able to sail in the future. Make another cup of tea and keep going before it gets too cold 👍👍👍👍

You are doing a great job. Save a fortune on drill bits, learn to sharpen them and they will last forever, well almost. The HSS (High Speed Steel) bits can be sharpened to different angles to suit different materials. Each drill bit, small or big, can probably be sharpened about 100 times and each time be like new. And use oil when drilling metals. Keep the faith, you will be sailing soon.

Mark you are a star. Please would you consider wearing eye protection when drilling, a bit of swarf can take your sight? I noticed my panic. Go gently and well. x

You're doing great and you have come along way.. seems that you have really slowed down and started caring about the proper ways and the finished product.. you will have Mahi done when she's done and then you can enjoy your hard work and long hours..

Mark, boat work is just winging it 99.9% of the time! Your doing a great job!

I remember your first fibreglass project where you were laminating bulkheads,,,, you,ve come a long way. You,re doing a solid job. The hardest part is pushing through!

I don't think that checking details with the designer counts as winging it! Keep going!

Love your vids. Highly recommend you use larger washers on both ends of the threaded bar. The larger they are the more you multiply the pull through resistance.

Someone might have mentioned this already but if you're cutting threaded rod, put the nut on first, cut it , then take the nut off. That way the nut will clean up the threads at the cut end with minimal effort.

It took me quite a while to understand why a drill bit had anything to do with the song. I was just about to post a comment asking someone to explain it, then it hit me. A "Helter Skelter" is a fair ground ride that's a tower with a spiral slide around it. The drill bit looks like that slide! And that's what the song is named after.

Good film, I'm amazed by your perseverance. You must really love Wharrams! A tip from my (late) engineer dad: always keep a nut upstream on the thread you're cutting. When you finish, wind down the nut and go forwards and back a bit and it will clean the end-thread up for you. Saves a lot of frustration later!

for drilling stainless cobalt drill bits are what i would recommend also slightly slower drill speed with some cutting fluid and once you start dont stop till you are through or it will work harden trust me i had to do 30k of them over 2 weeks of hell ps your doing great

I find cobalt plated bits make drilling stainless a breeze, if they are available the the extra expense is so worth it!

Hey Mark, look for a machine shop around you and see if they could skim the bottom of the mast step flat and square to the mast. If you need it on a bit of an angle on the mast, they can machine that angle into the base. I've been a Machinist for over 25 years and this would be easy.

Anyone who listens to the Beatles while they are working is bound to succeed! You're doing great, Get yourself a grinding wheel and sharpen your drill bits. It's easy to do by hand once you get the hang of it.

I would definitely put at least two all thread bolts into the main beam. Better also to use the same size bit as the thread and coat the drill hole with some epoxy paint to help preserve it

You keep doing you, man. There is an internet "expert" behind every keyboard. You're doing great work and I cannot wait until this project is completed.

Hey man, you’re doing so great. “Winging it” is not the impression you’re giving me. I feel like you’re working hard behind the scenes to do things well. And hell, you’ve mentioned your concerns over sailing safety like how many times!?! Keep going man. Can’t wait to see you sailing this great little boat. 🤙

Said it last time and I just want to repeat it. Douglas Fir is NOT rot resistant. You need to coat it. It would make a lot of sense to coat the whole finished beam before you install it so you can get all of it coated. If it were me I would also wrap it with fiberglass to prevent checking later. Douglas Fir is prone to checking.

you can sharpen drill bits wit a little attachment with a stone inside, they don't cost much

instead of recutting the threads just put a bolt on before cutting. when you get it off it automatically puts the cut thread back in place. also please leave like 3 complete nut turns on it on both sides. when the bolt ends directly at the nut they have a drastically decreased strength.

You're doing a great job without a workshop and learning so much about the materials you are using. The boat will evolve with you for many years. Great to see you both progressing

its really nice to see you learning with this boat and more committed to doing things properly rather than beetle tapping everything 😅

Mate, first: you are doing a phenomenal good job on your boat! Second: You need to keep in mind that it is in fact YOUR boat, and YOU have to have confidence in her capabilities! YOU are (re)building her, it is YOUR home. So please....take the good advice-but never EVER doubt your own choices and decisions! You ARE doing it right my friend! You have made the right decisions. There is always more then one road to the same destination! Keep it up-hang in there-and you WILL get there! ( sorry for all the captcha's bro!). Just keep going!

I know I love you Mark - for that there is no doubt....HOWEVUUURRRR, Each week i'm falling in love more & more with your subscribers!! The constructive advice, knowledge & encouragement is palpable🤗⛵️🤗

TIP: if you can lash or clamp down your workbench, I think you'll be amazed at how much it improves your work. I have a Workmate bench like yours. I hang two 20lb hand barbells from it to give it some stability in my garage. It makes a world of difference not having to stand on it, etc.

I’d like to recommend a good center punch to dimple the steel and a few Cobalt drill bits for use on stainless. It’s surprising how much load the rigging carries so the mast is mostly under compression. Looking good! It’s going to be great! And when you’re done you can rightfully say “I did that!”

Dear Wildling Sailing. 👍👌👏 2) Yeah, I totally agree: Simply do what Hanneke suggests. She's definitely an expert. I guess that she is the most experienced Wharram sailor and builder. 3) You sound a bit tired. I'm a bit worried. Maybe you need a vacation. Best regards, luck and health in particular.

I'm constantly impressed by how constructively you deal with comments by your viewers 👍

Great progress 👏👏

It’s tough to keep yourself motivated when you’re doing it by yourself. Your graft is inspiring. So glad Anika is guiding you. C’mon you lad!!!

Hello I am Mr Whattodo and glad to ear you are conscious of your tech weaknesses. Randomly: , do not push your drill bit all the way in the drill shuck. To keep compression on the square tubes you HAVE to use a spacer INSIDE the tubes or they will crush and never get tight, depending on what you have around you can use a tight fitting hardwood block in place of tubing ,The long tubes over the rods at 18:15 defeat the very purpose of the system, don't you want to squeeze the beams. When you have decided the place of the mast built a little frame(mold) filled with epoxy- strand mix , and press the mast step in. Do not forget the Saran wrap on the step to keep it from sticking. To create a cheap 90 deg drilling guide cut a rectangle of plywood diagonally and glue the two sides on edge,use the long or short sides as a guide , want it fancy ?glue a drill size pvc tube to it. If you have easy access to her ask Anika about anything I can tell she is right, Personally I would try to hire her ,like an hour a week online,paid reasonably well. In the end it would save you time and money

Very nice! Its comming along my friend! You are getting better and better.

It’s your ship….. you are the Captain of said ship….. you know and conversed with the said co- designer of the ship…. Have discussed said procedure and have her blessings….. so once again your are the Captain of said ship….. aka….. you do as you damn well please……I for one don’t know much about sea vessels but you seem to have good knowledge and have talked to an expert of said ship…… so You Do What You Damn Well Please….. I’ve got faith in you and you will succeed…..safe seas and happy sailing…….⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️ anchors away my boy…..👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

For nautical use, the correct option is 316L Stainless Steel (low carbon). 304 steel oxidizes quickly in contact with seawater.

If you can get to a grinding wheel you can sharpen those bits! You doing awesome keep it up

Well done mate, progress towards the dream.

Good to see Hanneka is keeping her beady eye on your work. Do not forget to resin/fiberglass all the wood including end grains and fill the holes also.

tip for drilling into metal, once you see steam and or smoke, there is no more lubricant in the hole. A proper whole punch would be better too.

It's great to watch. I have owned many a yacht ,and people said you can get the same feeling if you stand in a shower ripping up 20-pound notes.. but you need to have some fun as well .

I was like it’s Friday night. Mark where are you?? And there you are again on KZfaq. Look forward more now to Fridays because of you mark!!😉😉

A trick I learned when cutting threaded rod or bolts is to spin a couple of nuts on first. It gives you something to clamp down on without damaging the threads and when you back the nuts off it repairs the threads

As lots of people have said a smaller pilot hole first when drilling stainless also maybe get a cheap pillar drill, nice slow steady speed and even pressure. It would be worth it in the long run if you much more stainless to drill. I’m sure there would be something on marketplace or similar. Good luck and keep up the great work. Oh and some proper cutting fluid, I like CT90.

Reduce the wear on larger bits in ss by drilling a smaller pilot hole, as the points are worn out quickly without a pilot.

Lots of folks giving good positive advice about things …so let me just thank you for showing all the good and struggles. 🙂

Hey Mark, it looks like the long drill bit (auger) is meant for an SDS drill as opposed to a 3 jaw chuck. Looks like you managed anyway.

Huge respect mister, best of luck in the future. Keep learning, keep grinding :)

The only advice i have mark , is when you are cutting anything with a hand saw use long and slow strokes , and use the full leangth of the saw if possable , you are doing great young man , keep her lit .I look forword to you're videos every saturday morning , thank you .

@Wildling Sailing: Screw the haters my friend! You are doing a great job! Keep up the good work. I'm not missing a single video. Love that you are jamming the Beatles. Jon, Paul, George, and Ringo would love what you are accomplishing. 😊

Well Mark, you are definitely progressing as a "Do it all" boat owner. After reading thru the comments it looks like most of my suggestions have already been stated (center punch, cobalt drills, pilpt hole, a good electric bit sharpener, countersinking the nuts). The only words of wisdom i can add to it is when putting stainless fasteners onto stainless threads always add some type of lubricant. Stainless on stainless like to gall and bind up. Keep on learning, but take some time for yourself. Don't be concerned about stepping away for a bit and putting the boat out of your mind. It will pay dividends when you get back to it.

Drill a pilot hole first then move up to the full size, but re sharpen your drill bits, after a few years you can do it by eye, but you can by a little jig that fits on your drill to sharpen your bits, good luck in your build

I use a centre drill for starting stainless. Not sure why but it works like a dream, even through thick stuff. Well done Mark, she' taking shape.

In the intro seeing how well you nailed the drilling... I was super impressed. Then I saw the tool you used to get it really straight .... still super impressed! Well played sir... well played!!

You can find many 'experts' in domments, given Hanneke has more experience than anyone else out there regarding the Wharran designs nad builds, I know who's advice I would listen too!

Great work Mark! Going strong despite the weather deteriorating. Hope the recent storm didn't cause any damage!

I’ve been following your channel for some time and want to commend you for your tenacity. It is inspiring for an an old codger like me to watch a young man go for such a daunting goal. You have given me hope for the younger generation.

Your doin great. Photography is great and editing looks good to me. Keep your excitement for this stuff and your gonna do fantastic.

You are doing great Mark! I know what's refitting a boat but i can't imagine doing it by myself and pull out a KZfaq production. Wow. Congratulations

For the mast foot: I suggest a polyurethane sheet of sufficient thickness to take up the bow in the base. 5mm will be more than adequate. Its a compression load, its bolted down, and there will be rigging to keep the mast upright. I wouldnt worry about it mate.

Thank you for addressing comments related to the mast beam. You are doing fine work. Seeing your struggles and successes is very satisfying. Thank you for providing content.

With every video, I’m impressed more and more with your tenacity and wonderful demeanor.

Great video's your doing a great job so far. loving your enthusiasum. You probably know this already but just saying :-) When drilling steel or stainless steel, use Cobalt drill bits. Drill slowly, the key is to keep the bit tip cool so dip it in water or oil when ever you believe it's getting hot. You know it's in the sweet spot regarding drill speed when you can see material appearing from the tip as its drilling. Caution as tempting as it is, dont ever drill full speed, this makes the tip over heat (as mentioned in this video) and blunting the drill bit. Good luck looking forward to future episodes.

You will find the 304 will rust very quickly. Try sticking with 316 on all exterior metals including fixings. Hope that helps😊

You look so much more confident with the manual work and getting help where you need it. I think its coming together and will be a good boat when it's finished. Keep going

What you are doing is MASSIVE!!!!! Take no notice of the couch surfers, you are living a really great life and it does not matter if you get some things wrong, you have have got the main thing right TO LIVE AN ADVENTURE. There is no loosing as long as you are trying. Loosing only happens when you give up and go and get a job in a fecking office with a boss you hate. Loosing only happens when you give up a dream. You can feck everything up along the way, it does not matter, just never make the ultimate feck up of giving up and living a life you regret. Live it like you stole it young Jedi!!!!!!!!!!

Your jig should help with vertical holes. I've learned that with horizontal holes, one can slip a slightly larger washer over the bit and with the bit turning, use the washer to know when the bit is level. Move the drill up or down until the washer "rides" about halfway between the wood and the bit. This is of no help right or left but is an acceptable way to gauge the up/down. :)

In my humble opinion, you should cover in epoxy every single piece of wood, before setting it permanently.

Hope everything’s ok Mark

I, personally, think if you have driven a 12mm hole you should use 12mm rod. I would agree with bigger washers - even more important if you are using 10mm rod.

Loving the series! Keep at it!

Love how you're bringing to a able vessel,Mark!

Well done Mark. Progress is being made which we can all see. Keep it up.

Hey Mark, loving your videos. I’m a field service tech listening to you during the day, looking forward to your sailing adventures. I sharpen my drill bits freehand on the fly using an angle grinder, you can use a Jig also 🙂👍

Mark your doing great mate, it’s so nice to see Annika and Yourself Become Great Friends 👍🥰

Those long thin bolts that hold the mastfoot beam will work under lateral load and either shear or distort .You cannot tighten them sufficiently to prevent this.If you want a permanent rigid connection you should use stainless toothed connectors between the faces.

hi I THERE I recommend first when you are drilling in metal. Drill with a 4mm drill bit. Second, in order to maintain the drills, there is lathe fluid that prevents the metal from heating up, you should also use that.

Use a rubber, or plastic, spacer between the bottom of your mast attachment and the top of the boat. It would take the bend of the deck and you won’t need to cut, or grind, the bottom of the mast attachment.

Mark for the Mast Step take it to a machine shop to make it flat on the bottom. Surface grinders work wonders

Your boat is looking great Mark.when you finish it don't sell it like you did the other cat. Keep up the good work.

You are playing a blinder brother very nice work..... little cutting disc on the grinder would make cutting the rod a bit easier but I like the results of a hacksaw too so keep her lit.........I can imagine there are a lot of nagging perfectionists on here, but as a ex-sailor/ex-wildboy/mechanical-insataller your attention to detail is very satisfying so keep it up you are playing a blinder lad

With Christmas around the corner, might be a good time to add some items to your Amazon wish list. Gloves, jacket, New pillow, fuzzy quilt, towels, coffee cups, cooking gear, chocolate, music, wish-wish-wish. Santa might bring you something that will make things nicer. Just saying.

You deserve all the support u can get. U are a dedicated fellow. 🇨🇦

The bit that will compress when the bolts are done up is the box section.Instead of cutting bushes inside the box section you could have used hardwoodcut with an interference fit & hammered in. Then drilled. The box section would not compress &if you were worries about rot you could soak it in resin first.

Thanks for explaining why the base for the mast is so long. I am sure you know this trick, when cutting threads, put a nut on first, when you take the nut off it will re cut the threads. Absolutely nothing wrong with using a Die to do the threads, however if you don't have the right size ! You almost always have the right size nut.

Excellent work Mark! You might consider a reciprocating saw if theres much more metal work! I was worn out just watching you cut all that! 😅 Cannot wait to see that mast planted and a sail flying! Advice is just epoxying any and all holes as well as wood and using large diameter washers on the stainless rectangular and square tubing. Also, lock washers may last longer than nylock nuts. I'm so jealous of you and this massive cool project! Goooo Mark!👍

AHOY from Sweden ! Just use water to keep the HSS drills cool all the time when drilling 316. Anywhere the 316 is drilled, filed or hacksawed, it will get superficial rust. Only electropolishing stops this.

HEY Mark, just discovered your channel, we bought our CT41 taiwan clipper in Monnickendam Harbour and always wondered what this cool wharam was doing there in the corner of the small lake near the harbor, glad that there is someone taking care and making it into a beautiful new adventure. good luck and save travel.

Great job!! You are getting there!

Well, fancy the Norwegian Star Cruise ship coming by specially to see your boat. You're famous Mark! I like the hard wood pieces where the engine mounts go. That was a good idea to route out the groove for the bars. Gives a positive location.

You're making really good progress. One piece of advice I read from an old shipwright. When you get new drill bits, don't throw away the old, dull ones. Save those for drilling stainless steel exclusively.

Great bit of work man! Take it easy on yourself!

Enjoyed the update. You're making progress. So are we... feels good :)

When drilling stainless steel you have to remember that the more heat that's generated the harder it will get.. you must go slow and use a abundance of cutting oil

Good jobs done. Small steps make one big one🎉

17:20 *EYEPRO BRO! EYEPRO!* As someone who's had a chip of metal in their eye, it's no fun. It'll happen when you least expect it.