Great video! The only thing I do different than you when installing races is when I use an old race to put in a new one, I grind off a little metal on the old race before installing the new one, so that the old race comes out easier. Cheers, Rob.

The for showing this Adam, it was an entertaining video!

I may have mentioned this before , on the back of the hub there is a small hole this I plug with a screw then when pumping grease in it travels along the shaft to the fulcrum bearings and seals, IF you do not do this you run the risk of water ingress and this will cause those bearings to rust then seize, my preference is to leave the screw in the hole but each to their own. Prior to using the old race to drive in the new race I always grind a little off the old race outside edge, this makes it easier to remove once the new race is fully home. I always mark the end of the shaft with a line so that I know where the split pin hole is, makes life a little easier, yes I have done a few of these.

That was so interesting Adam thanks for sharing this best regards Andy Allen.

Yes! Thanks for making this one. Much better understanding of what I'm up against when the time comes. Well done.

Wow great timing, I have a dismantled hub in the garage! Could you also do a video on replacing those lower pivot bearings/setting the clearance on them etc?

Unfortunately for me (DIY klutz), all your videos are for entertainment and educational value only. I still love them even though I don’t get much grease under my nails!

Interesting to see! On the XJ40, the ABS gear isn't located between the bearings; it is on the axle shaft side.

Hello Adam I have a a friend who's an accomplished mechanic so l've done a barter with him . I did all the metalwork on his mk lX so he's done my lRS for my '66 2+2 . Cheees !

Great timing as just about to rebuild mine - thank you. I had struggled with removing the splined shaft as it looked like it had been glued in, i heard that was a dealer quick fix for some issues. Only thinhg i would recommend is not using a steel hammer directly onto bearings but having a piece of aluminium in between. I also used a piece of brass to drift out the bearings.

I understand your warning about the press but some still wish to see the actual process . We at least I do not hold anything u do as an absolute or hold u accountable . DIY people understand the risks or at least I do . I learned much watching this video . Many parts of the repair can be done but just a few needing a press . U can buy a press or take it to a shop to press those items .

Could you possibly service grease the bearing through the ABS sensor hole, or wouldn't that work? I know an amateur fix on Citroen XM (owned two) for the rear swing arm bearing was to drill and fit a small grease nipple. They were notorious for ceasing up without it, especially on salty roads.

You are supposed to put spline loctite on the splines and let it set for 4 hrs. If not you will find you have clicking splines when you pull off.

A superficially simple process with a lot of opportunities to get it wrong. Is it prudent or desirable to check the other side, in case it's nearly equally worn?

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Should have used a Swedish Volvo bearing 😉. Just kidding, send it!

15:45 Humm, not ideal. I would not put pressure on modern bearings balls or rollers in this case. I would instead press the bearing center par on the hub seperately. These are fragile and may not last as long. Especially with Chinesium bearings, a big no!

Chinese bearings ! In Sweden ! On a Jaguar !