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Jaguar X100 Wishbone saga Episode 2 removal HD 1080p

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To The Garage

To The Garage

8 ай бұрын

In this episode, we look at the easiest way to remove and strip down the upper wishbone on the front suspension of our wonderful Jaguar V8 GT's the Jag X100 XK8 XKR. We discuss replacement top bushes and ball joints and see the state of the wishbones on my 27-year-old example!
I also demo the best tool for effort-free ball joint splitting. I believe mine to be a Sykes Pickavant brand tool which I can't find available anymore
Here is a link to a very similar product for your interest
amzn.to/3RtiTeq
Please treat 'Secrets of the XK8 Ep 116 'wishbones' as Ep 1. Here is a link
• Secrets of the Jaguar ...
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Пікірлер: 21
@UdoIBress
@UdoIBress 8 ай бұрын
Good job John, very well explained. It's fun to watch the video. Thanks for showing it.
@ToTheGarage
@ToTheGarage 8 ай бұрын
Thanks Udo. Watching the explosive ball joint spliitting on the video, even makes me jump!🤣
@stephenoakley1583
@stephenoakley1583 8 ай бұрын
Hi John. Great video. Really well explained and satisfying to see the process. You can't beat adding new shiny bits!👍
@ToTheGarage
@ToTheGarage 8 ай бұрын
Thanks Stephen. Have a great Christmas mate. Purdie is having her bushes as her present a bit early👍
@stephenoakley1583
@stephenoakley1583 8 ай бұрын
Merry Christmas John. Have a good one 👍
@andrewgraham4838
@andrewgraham4838 7 ай бұрын
Thanks for this video John. I love the way you explain the why as well as the how. I changed my top bushes earlier this year and I have to confess that I did not know what to expect when I took the long fulcrum bolt out in respect of the bushes falling apart. As a result I rather lost track of which were washers and what were parts of the bush! So if I had seen your video I wouldn't have made that mistake. I ended up using what I found online as the "Default setting" for the washer placement, so in the spring I will need to get the caster geometry checked. I am waiting for the next installment! happy Christmas John to you and yours.
@philcrowell7516
@philcrowell7516 8 ай бұрын
This is a job I did a couple of years ago. Your excellent explanation makes it a job that most home mechanics could do. Interestingly, I initially removed my top wishbone to replace the balljoint and followed pretty much your process. I later tried to remove the fulcrum bolt to replace the springs without breaking the balljoint. What I found was the weight of the hub caused the shims to bite into the fulcrum bolt and they acted like brakes on the bolt. Unfortunately I only realised this after sweating for half an hour with the first bolt. I also have a similar balljoint separator but managed to shear the bolt before the joint gave way. I replaced the monkey metal bolt with a high tensile one so get a good one that lasts like John's.
@ToTheGarage
@ToTheGarage 8 ай бұрын
Yes Phil, when it comes to high load tools like these, it is worth avoiding the absolute 'bargain basement' tools. Its hard to cut corners on the materials that they are made from👍. Great insight about the shims biting into he bolt. I can completely understand where you are coming from on that👍👍👍
@MadDogMark11
@MadDogMark11 8 ай бұрын
Hi John! Love the videos so keep them coming. These cars are showing their age now, which causes some major headaches! I tried to get the top pivot bolts out of my 2003 XKR, in situ, like you. Neither bolt would come out and I ended up removing the whole subframe. I intended doing this anyway as I knew the Ver mounts had collapsed. Getting the pivot bolts out then was easy, although I sheared off a couple of subframe bolts! Putting it all back together again, I saw the manual says the mid-range torque for the pivot bolt nut is 110 Nm. If this torque is attempted, the sleeves in the bush peen-over the centre of the ‘thrust’ washers, seizing them solid on the bolt. It’s this that makes it so difficult removing the bolt in situ. Before I got the top wishbone how it should be, I had to remove the subframe again. I have only tightened the nut a bit over hand tight until I can get some clarification of what torque it should be. I noted your O/E spanner removed the nut without effort, so clearly not very tight? Any advice on this when you are refitting the assembly will be greatly appreciated! Also, should the threads be lubricated if the nuts are a flanged version of a Binx type. 👍😁
@garyvanremortel5218
@garyvanremortel5218 8 ай бұрын
Called picklefork and bearing surface. And tool is a force multiplier.
@ToTheGarage
@ToTheGarage 8 ай бұрын
The Oracle has spoken👍 Cheers GV. Thats why you are the source for the true words and facts, and I am the chap removing his Chicken bone thing with a tuning fork shaped doofer😁
@briankennedy5578
@briankennedy5578 8 ай бұрын
Leaving the nut on ball joint and breaking it loose can bite you. If it's got much looseness at all, it'll be hard to get the nut off. Stud will turn with the nut.
@ToTheGarage
@ToTheGarage 8 ай бұрын
I can see what you mean Brian. I Have had to tap the ball joint back into the taper before to take of the nut🤔 Maybe I should have removed the nut completely but have wrapped a bungee cord around the hub and wishbone just to ensure nothing flies off in an uncontrolled way. Might try that on the other side.
@gerardbooth40
@gerardbooth40 8 ай бұрын
Sadly, I'm gigging tonight so won't be able to join you good folks for the premiere but will catch up in due course. Have a good one.
@ToTheGarage
@ToTheGarage 8 ай бұрын
Thanks Gerard. Have a great Gig. Or if its a small one, is that a Giggle?🤔
@ljones396
@ljones396 8 ай бұрын
I genuinely read that as 'I'm giggling tonight"...twice! 😂
@jagvette1
@jagvette1 7 ай бұрын
OK I have been waiting for you to finish so that I can comment on each episode, First and foremost Where is episode 1 I can find episode 2,3,4 and116 !!!
@ToTheGarage
@ToTheGarage 7 ай бұрын
😁 number 1 is Secrets of the XK8 Ep 116😔. I have seen the errors of my ways and have updated the thumbnail for 116.
@yogig6271
@yogig6271 7 ай бұрын
Help needed! ….. I changed battery xk8 because old one died due to lack of use in garage .. new one installed, however it become a nightmare, due to the immobilization.. won’t start and alarm going off …I have to disconnect… I have had one lock specialist out with no success… nearest jag supplier has no one to send…and I don’t have the space to tow the vehicle out…. Oh and my insurance breakdown will not attend due to the now lapsed mot running out :(
@ToTheGarage
@ToTheGarage 7 ай бұрын
Hi @yogig6271 First in case you didnt know. If you unlock the car using the key (typically needed when battery is flat) then the alarm and imobiliser will be triggered. However if you put the key in the ignition and start the car within 10 seconds of opening a door, it wont sound and everything is reset. If its not as simple as that:- Disconnect the alarm sounder below the front right headlamp. Wind your windows down Completely Disconnect your battery Touch positive battery lead to earth for 10 seconds to give a hard reset. Fully charge your battery. Check the tiny gate in your ignition barrel key slot, closes when you pull the ignition key out. Reconnect battery Assuming your black ignition key is the original and therefore contains the correct transponder chip. Open the door and put the ignition key in to the ignition position. Even if the alarms are sounding, this should disable them. If not then a) The car thinks doors are open/closed when they are not. (lock microswitch issues) b) The security module is fried c) Your battery earth lead is degraded If all appears well, then try reconnecting the alarm sounder. If all hell breaks loose again, the Nicad backup batteries in the sounder have shorted out and you need a new sounder. (or just leave it off) Hope that helps John
@yogig6271
@yogig6271 7 ай бұрын
Thank you John.. I'll try all, and return to update.. keep up the great work Btw...it's becoming overwhelming in absorbing the amount of knowledge required to drive this beautiful car.😊.. I expect to return in a couple of weeks with update as I'm not currently in same location as XK.. Merry Christmas
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