Check out the 1948 Keller Super Chief restoration on Junkyard Dave’s channel! youtube.com/@Junkyard_Dave?si=jWAd3fO8biiLC0wI

You've heard it thousands of times already, but you two are so lucky to work together like this. Great seeing a father and son doing stuff like this.

Nothing wrong with a longer video even if you don't get much "accomplished", because you do, very informative on what you are looking for and what possibly needs to be done

If the B block will clean up at .125 over you can get new pistons for $350 and shipping. It would run a lot better with more compression and might be cheaper than boring installing liners then reboring. I wouldn't use the old ones as they are worn everywhere. If you can find some late model B pistons they are 4 11/16 inch. We used them in the mid B's 30 years ago in our early tractor pulling days. But I couldn't locate any standard ones. Shims never assume they are correct as you are following someone elses work. Measure them and make them equal and install. Remove one shim on both sides till you have drag when rotated and put back one shim. Cranks are usually worn egg shaped and it very hard to use plasticgage on the old John Deeres. Mid B studs are not heat treated. Late B studs are. My brother has a machine shop and is in the process of making some studs out of Grade 8 bolts. I heat the studs where they go in the block till they are red hot let them cool a little bit then try and remove them. Usually works but pretty well does the stud in.

Went through the same thing on my 39 B. I replaced the head studs with a set from ARP. Called them and the guy said hey I may have something that will work. They are not a tapered thread like the original so had to use a good thread sealant. I heated and cooled a couple times using penetrant oil and they finally all came out. Ok now I see how it works. The more physical pain that is incurred the higher the labor rates go. Wow I can only imagine what it would cost if stitches are required during a repair...

I've been a mechanic almost as long as your Cleaning man (I'm a 61 model)- and have heard of about a million ways to remove a rusted in stud. Almost all have worked in a particular way, the hard part is finding the one that works best!

I love watching people who enjoy their work and joke around, but who are completely professional and meticulous when it counts.

My grandpa owned a local chain of auto parts stores. He started with his GI Bill after WWII. Fighting the 3rd day invasion of Normandy. He said "an engine needs 5 things to run. Bang, boom, bust, blow and sometimes timing". He also said close & sometimes only count in hand grenades, horseshoes and that three letter word that starts with S and Ends with X. Whatever that means.

I love the fact of a father and son duo. It is so wholesome to see old values in todays society. I enjoy all of your content and knowledge.

I have a suspicion the cleaning guy might make a great teacher. 👍 from someone else that likes to do things properly, thankyou. Its always a pleasure to watch. ❤

Cleaning guy is the true gem of the shop... smart guy! Take in all that knowledge!!

massive respect for you and your dad!!! i am learning and relearning a lot from listening to you and your dad, and your dad is awesome for passing on what he knows to you, so that you can carry on with the family business

The manifold studs are a special tapered thread. H&J Machining in Carrington ND will have the bolts along with rings and valves and guides

We had to pull the head studs from our JD D, they were 3/4 inch, 8 inches long. The local machine shop didn't want to do it themselves due to ruining a D block doing it years prior Took a stud puller on an impact, and a pipe wrench at the same time, tight every rotation until they were out. Definitely a dicey proposition.

I wonder if JD suspended/reduced tractor production after the outbreak of World War II in late 41. When that engine was built the whole world was in turmoil. Many of the men in that factory were watching their sons leave home for basic/boot camp. Things aren’t great in our country right now but things have been worse for many who came before us.

Holy smokes i just realized Jim has a set of guns on him. Way to go making healthy life choices bro! And thanks for the great content gang.

Fantastic!!!! My nickname when I worked at an Atlanta HD dealership for many years was “The Extractor” . My speciality to this day is extracting broken bolts and studs, etc….. I agree with EVERYTHING you guys do. I know this was a long time ago but I’m sure if anyone could solve these problems, you guys can! I think the “cook” needs some recognition in one of your videos. My favorite part is when someone says “it’s time to eat”. LOVE IT!

I've been spending a lot of time lately hanging out with my dad, working on old stuff. Always makes me think of you two. Love watching y'all!

It is so nice watching a father and son working together enjoying what they are doing. And doing top quality work.

Thanks for your video. I am way past rebuilding engines but your videos are interesting enough to watch until the end.

Your father has the patience of jobe to deal with old seized stuff and he is a wealth of knowledge. Thanks for taking us along

You guys are the pros! no DIY here , I worked as an industrial mechanic for 25 years .A lot of our equipment fell off the Mayflower and washed up on shore!!! We often worked with the machine shop ,pulling gears , getting out broke off studs etc. The machine shop super had a saying "put some heat on it " get the map gas out and the rose bud tip !

Love this video format and watching you two work together.

This was a very interesting video restoring old John Deere and Hercules engines. Looking forward to seeing the next video

KD manufacturing no 875 is the best thing expander I’ve ever used, worked in a really old machine shop when I was in high school and the old man had one ended up finding one for myself probably 10 years later on eBay after using all the junk ones like u guys got there.

most people wont show when things go bad on here , keep up the good work

Like to see the old john deeres being brought back in working order.

I see on the bench you have a set of jugs for a Moline R or Z. I would love to see how you refurbish those. I was told by a local shop they could not work on them since they are a blind cylinder and can't hone the cylinders. Might have to ship mine to CO 😊.

14👍's up JAMS thank you for sharing 😎

Another great video, ,,, I hope the cleaning guy got that splinter out,,, thanks guys, looking forward to seeing these old tractor engines come together, and the dyno challenge,,,, I think the 2nd engine won't be far behind the original in hp and torque

for rusty parts like the cooling passages, you can pour apple cider vinegar in it and let sit for a day or two and it cleans it out, the alternate to that Ospho is the Kleen strip metal and concrete etch at home depot.

I love the disassembly and autopsy videos.

I really enjoy the Sundays with u guys. Looking forward to those dyno comparisons.

i bought a ring expander from snap on that actually spreads flat instead of in an arc which is super handy... probably wouldnt work as well on those super wide rings though

I am a 1958 model as well. I had to get a 58 Pan Head as the motorized item as old as me.

I love the disassembly and autopsy videos.. Love this video format and watching you two work together..

I love how you guys know so much about engines. Many hours, over the years, of accumulating knowledge tried and failed. I also like how humble you guys are, even admitting to a problem that may have been of your making. Thanks for the great SHOW!!

I use SnapOn compound snap ring pliers for rings on piston and transmission parts.

Just found the channel, love the stories/explanation that the experienced guy tells. Really cool!

Saving an old John Deere is a noble mission.

I’m loving your channel guys 👍 It’s so refreshing to see someone just talking about their work (the good and the bad) while offering genuine advice and information and not just blowing smoke out of their own a** 😂👍👍

Great video guys, awesome seeing all the things that you guys find, fix, and show us here. Always interesting to see it all. Good to see the cleaning guy is doing a great job as well. My dad is a 1957 model, April 12 to be precise.

Anything you post is Interesting to me ! Please keep it up and thanks for sharing !

Enjoyed watching the comings and goings in the workshop, very much impressed by your dad's experience with the old engines. 🥇 Those old engines are quaint but chasing parts can be a challenge. Thanks for posting.☘

Keep up the good work. Love the videos keep them coming!!!

Love watching you guys work on the John Deere parts especially the the 2 cylinders. I have 2 of them. Thanks keep up the good work.

I enjoy watching you guys work. I was at a car cruise in yesterday and saw a 58 studebacker with a flat head 6.

I have become completely addicted to your channel thank you so much for taking the time to put these videos out while running a successful business it much appreciated take care stay safe and may your God bless you always 🙋‍♂️🇬🇧🇺🇸

This video was awesome and hit home since my grandfather just finished a B this past spring. I believe this was his last restoration because of his health. I got to spend much needed time with him on this rebuild. I love the radiator canvas for the cover and the hand crank to start it.

Great videos...very informative .....I was wondering if you have any videos of the engines you guys build running?

Great job guys. Bore the chamber part of the cylinder a few though bigger so you have less to hone.

love this channel, so wholesome ☺️

Junkyard dave is a very talented guy. Cool to see your working with him.

Hi Jim, I'm not going to attempt to teach an "old dog" new tricks but I'm fourteen years older than you if that makes a difference. Removing studs has always been a bug of mine especially exhaust manifold bolts and studs. A technique I've used often and successfully is to heat the area with a propane torch until its too hot to touch, then while its hot but the torch is out, spray the joint of the stud/block with liberal amounts of WD 40. It'll smoke like hell so you need fresh air available. Wait until the smoking stops and gently try to move the stud. If the rapid cooling has worked it will have released whatever was gluing up the works, allowed some of the lubricant into the joint and hopefully the stud comes out with little extra force. If it won't move, rinse and repeat. I've seldom broken one but as you said in the video your best tool is patience. Good luck and thanks for the videos. Very informative. Regards from Canada's banana belt.🤞🇨🇦🍌🥋🇺🇦🕊️🇺🇲👍

another good on e guys,showing what your up against with old studs etc.

I just did 1 a few months ago for a customer and it was used as a state hight way tractor for Mississippi and it’s almost a Allis chalmers orange factory color, very fun build

Real interesting stuff coming up for sure. Can't wait.

Nice video, you guys are a great team. I also charge customers extra for injuries. Fortunately it rarely happens.

Happy to see your on David’s engine 🎉🎉 , I was happy to see you work with him , I’m a sub on both channels , 🎉🎉

Very interesting channel, been following for a time, got to confess, I will be 60 this year, watching this makes me miss, dad, my best friend, gone for almost 40 years now.

Ok, ok, I'll admit I was on the John while watching and with earbuds in. When that crank gear came loose _'Bang'_ 💥 like that I yelled and jumped completely off the seat! 😂

Gentlemen, I love this channel! I just subscribed. Those rust-frozen stud bolts woulda been child’s play for the “Heat and Quench” method. All it takes is an oxy torch and cold water.

I grew up in my family’s auto parts store. We had a “machine shop”, I put that in quotes because things surly have changed after seeing your equipment. Other than our old head resurfacer the part I hated the most were putting the springs back on GM’s with the o’ring valve seal. You guy’s would cringe at our old setup. During the 60’s engines gave us a lot of grace.

Your videos are never boring. I like the impact stud removal tool! What brand is it? Dad wears impact safety glasses while working around the press. 😉. Great job guys!

Every four-stroke engine still uses, Suck, Squeeze, Pop, Phooey to run. They all have a piston sliding through a bore for displacement and piston rings for sealing. And they all use some form of valving to get air in and out of the cylinder. Regarding blood, old mechanic once told me, "You need to be able to curse in the language where the stuff came from, and to be able to ignore minor arterial bleeding." I do like your idea of charging per bleeding episode.

Man i sure love watching you two. Yo6 guys are so awesome.

Famous last words" I think this gear I'll come off quite easy" followed by " son of a bleeeeep" Had me rolling up. Great work fellas

At one time i had over 55 JD 2 cylinders all ran too. Needs less to say i had to spend tons rebuilding these. But they were made to be redone in the field, super simple, and not to mention having the hand clutch. I can change the clutch out on one in 15 minutes and be back running. I sold all but six of the heard off as i got older but you can’t beat the sound of the big two cylinder. If you think those little jugs are big look up the model D specs.

What an awesome opportunity to straighten up this old technology!

Glad to see the shop busy with lots of projects!

The father is such a sweet man. 💕

I'm from Washington State, I have used Delta cams several times, keep the videos coming

12:57 hazet does ( it’s one that grabs 3/4 of the piston ring ) . The type of expander you use now puts all the stress on a point on the opposite side . If the piston ring is coated it may cause the coating to chip ( Mahle and kolbensmidt made good videos on the correct piston ring installation )

I wouldn't say you've failed at the stud removal...I'd say that you just haven't succeeded yet! :) Love the vids, especially the older interesting stuff like this!

Hi Jim ! I have started telling people not to take anything apart until they have all the needed parts for a complete repair for real found. I have a project that I can’t get gaskets for that was disassembled.

Another great video! Put some Kroil on those studs!

This is a trick my grandfather showed me when working on old cast iron heads and blocks with studs or bolts ,if you have an old oven heat it to 450 degrees and put the head in for about 30 minutes and the studs should come out a little better

The machinist Ive hired to work on my engine use a cleaning solution with acid and a paint stripper. Cleans everything out rust and all. The blocks usually come out looking like brand new cadtings. Such an amazing color that spotless light gray cast iron. My block was one of those rare blocks where the paint didnt come off but all the cooling channels etc came out spotless. Last time I was in his shop he had 14 v8 engines he was working on with blocks looking like that. Seems to me that such a cleaning solution is worth looking into.

I can only wish I had a Dad like Jim.

Hi, I did a mostly stock Vortec headed (1.6 ex valve) that made 504HP with a Crane 111451 cam.

Ears perked up when you said Delta Cams. They're (well they were!) the only guys anywhere that did a Caddy 4.9 mild performance cam. That engine is a really popular swap into a Fiero since it's so easy (damn near drop in like it was supposed to be there).

Here's what you do for stuck studs. As you hammer on them, yell loudly " If these things come out, we're screwed, and how!" Works for me.😅😅

I didn't expect to see the Keller engine in this video, glad to see it's in good hands.

I saw that Keller Super Chief video months ago, crazy to see the engine show up here!

One of the problems with applying heat is that the expansion does not always work for you. I think in that case, the heat locally applied to the area around the bolt actually made it tighter.

Couple of Stud Muffins getting it done! Thanks for the video....

Dangit now im hooked. You guys rock

I just love those big iron pistons. So solid.

How about doing a Continental F162 or F163? They where used in Tractors, Forklifts & most commonly Lincoln SA-200 welders. I’m thinking of doing a SA-200 after I retire.

My first car is of the same year I was born, and it wasnt intentional. I had bought it two days before I started my first job after finishing a course at Job Corps. Im kinda between fixing the fuel rail (properly, ive got rescue tape on it) so it stops leaking fuel on the engine and selling it, or trying to swap in a newer transverse engine and making it a little hot rodder

You are one of my very few channels that gets a like on every video. I love that old shit too! Oh btw injectors lol

Have been coming across your shirt for quite sometime. Came to the channel. Got more than expected.

If possible I would try cutting the studs down shorter. I know this is conventionally the opposite of what you would want to do but a shorter stud will transfer the energy of the impact better and will heat a bit more evenly. Just a thought. It’s all situational there’s no general rule to stuff like this 👍 love the videos can’t wait to see what you guys come up with

Good stuff boys. Fun to follow 😅

With that valve spring compressor if you put just slightly pressure on the spring and hit jaw with brass hammer the spring will collapse without keepers flying everywhere. Takes minimum pressure.

I only just noticed that you cleaning guy has an awesome head of hair. You need to show him more respect! All hail the hair.

I got a lot of studs out by heating the stud red hot then poured water on the stud or used a crayon on it the water or wax cooled it rapidly shrinking it just like welding on a valve seat does. Mostly used water on exhaust manifold or if I used it on something like the JD block would have it horizontal so it didn't hit the block and cool it too quick. That's where the crayon works good because the wax will flow down around the threads lubricating them as is cools the stud. Give it a try.

i've found that heating the area as you guys are but then hitting the studd with cold water. seems to shock shrink the stud and help lots. good luck!

Delta is one of my favorite shops. I have a cam ground by them in almost every vehicle I own

I just realized I could be the cleaning guy, I was born in 1960. When me and my dad had our shop he was the "cleaning guy" and he was born in 1941, and I retired and he's still tinkering at 82 years old.