Love the S-51, it's easily the best scale Mustang. Love the Chipmunks section of the video. !

I looked back at some of your videos. You fellas are fortunate to be working on the restoration of an A 26. I have much respect for that.

freaking awesome, Jan is the Man, and so are you Bob!

As an auto mechanic for 44 years. A quarter turn around the bottom sprocket is really not enough to reliably transmit much torque or to be reilable for flight. You may need a sliding captured bar with two idlers above the crank to create almost half a turn of belt around the crank sprocket. Make sure the sliding bar has enough Y to prevent it from folding up into the cam sprockets. I would love for you to invest in a carbon pile and a multimeter with long leads with decent gator clips. Hook the carbon pile across the positive starter post and the engine block or starter mounting stud then set the volt meter to 20 volts DC. Hook one lead to the starter top post and the other to the positive battery post. Turn the carbon pile to 300 amps and watch the volt meter. I would like to see less than 2 volts of drop on the positive side of the starter battery circuit. Next test. Move the multimeter test leads to the starter body and the negative battery post. Turn the pile to 300 amps. This is only for a few seconds. Less than 2 volts of drop on the negative side. Puffing black. Almost sounded like you hydraulic locked the engine with fuel. Please pull all the spark plugs. Do a compression test. Make sure you have not bent anything like a rod. If you are trying to start the engine from a jump start box. Autozones sell a marine group 24 and 27 starting and deep cycle battery for 100 bucks and core. They also sell various lengths of battery cables. And red tape to mark the positive. I am not your average mechanic. There is no reason to not have CO2 fire bottles sitting within the wingspan of the plane. And a nomex driving suit on anybody in the cockpit operating the starting controls.

Thai you so much for this awesome video. Appreciate you. Please show more

Beautiful you're going to have a lot of fun enjoy stay safe flight smart 👍

Can’t believe you finally did it! woot woot!! 🎉❤

Man...I just LOVE the Stewart S51...the best looking (i.e. authentic looking) scale P-51 replica out there, IMHO.

Wow! Very exciting to see Jan's airplane out in the sun for this test run. Very sorry for the glitch, but it appears you guys are very much on op of it. Curious though from the Test Stand Run of approximately 3 hrs. if those two internal areas were rubbing at that time as well. Keep up the awesome work guys. Praying for a successful test run soon. Wishing everyone involved a Blessed Day... Larry W. Ocala, FL. B-777 Driver & Future S-51D Owner.

Sucker wants to run. Should start like a champ once you get the clearance issue resolved. Good luck, Jan!

That accessory housing and the routing of the drive belt don't look right to me. The amount of belt engaged with the lower sprocket isn't sufficient. How did the parts that were rubbing come into contact with the case? There should be bearings and/or spacers to keep them from moving closer to the case.

Put a belt tensioner on the belt to increase the belt wrap around the crank pulley. Put a flywheel on the propeller flange to absorb starter motor and power pulse shock to the belt work. The propeller alone would fix this as well.

It’s amazing that in ww2 they kept these aircraft flying at a moment’s notice

Don't give up,its cool

Need a set of idler roller to push the toothed belt against the bottom drive pulley. Belt is loose and will keep doing it without idlers.

Pretty cool... so you didn't have the accessory case installed during the test stand runs.. hmmmm.

I have never been a fan of toothed belts they are at the bottom of my preferred list which goes gears, chain and only as a last resort belt. I am surprised this problem did not show up in the test cell unless of course this auxiliary drive system was not mounted then.

Very impressive build but my first thought would be just build a real full scale mustang

My background with timing belts are with much smaller CNC/servo types but I have had problems with the lack of tooth engagement on smaller drive pulleys like you are using. I'd be concerned with even with a low accessory load the belt could slip during high acceleration/deceleration like commonly seen in aircraft use.

How is it that you don't need a prop, or at least a club to take the load?

Dont fix symptoms fix problems.

..So in a way, it's an Allison powered Mustang..😃..Chevy, GM division...Allison(back then), a GM division...

Nice! When starting and running, doesn't any engine (other than an F1 racing engine) require an inertial load - a flywheel, or in this case, the propellor to run properly?

What is you calculated horsepower output and what is the weight of the engine?

bad design. clearances are not the issue. too much counter torque (load) on that drive assembly ( which is not drag) you need gear drive assembly. that belt will never hold . its not clearance guys. the belt spread (got wider on the gear) from the pulse counter torque load on gear . thats why it hit the sides where the gears are. it only hit when it spreads from the pulsing load of the gear. . It is a pulsing load , so the belt expands where it laps over the gear on moments of high counter torque load on the gear. the belts spreads , masses onto the gear from counter torque load. You may get lucky and get her started with it, by giving more clearances to stop the rubbing, which will make you think you have the problem solved. But the pulse counter torque load on the gear will still be there and the pulse spreading of the belt on the gear will remain. the belt will snap in short time as it is constantly being mass spread on the gear. you will end up crashing from that setup. you need GET RID OF belts. use all gears. make an idler gear and drive gear setup. gear drive will make more of an authentic P 51 sound too. I built hundreds of motors. Every single one started one first crank , in less than 3 seconds. Every one, over 40 yrs.

Stuart Little also had a tiny Mouse-stang.

What would an airframe like that do with a Chevy LS engine? I have an LQ4, supercharged. It has done 1250HP with 24PSI boost. The road setup was only 860HP at 9 PSI 7000rpm. I am trying to talk my kids into putting it in an airframe, they want to keep it in a truck but are not hostile to something with wings. Only problem is we only fly nose dragers we are not tail wheel certified, I know minor. I gave the engine computer maker a goal of 4800rpm and 12lbs boost. He said 850-950 HP without emission which it now has. He thinks he can hold 12PSI to 20,000 feet with my blower. Could I fly an airframe like that on 800HP? You may have cost me more money but it will be fun.

That old girl is beautiful!!

He's got the choke out , and he will burn the starter out ..

🏆

🧐 why he didn’t say “ Clear Prop “ ?

Why not use a chain drive instead of a belt ?

Someone correct me if I’m wrong I take it that’s not a Rolls-Royce Merlin engine in that P 51 mustang

Just speaking for myself personally, if I was going to go through all the trouble to adapt a BBC for aircraft usage, I would not have chosen mechanical fuel injection. EFI with a return fuel system would have been my choice, probably using something minimal like megasquirt to control it. Especially considering you're using boost, you lean that thing out and you're going to throw a rod though the pan. I'd of also probably used a big cube LSX instead of a BBC, but that's a whole other discussion. The electronics are easier with the LS because you can use stock computers with HP Tuners and so forth plus they will reliably make 1000+ HP with the right parts.

What's the story on the enormous cyst on the Lear Jet? 1:06

Who farted at 2:47? haha

Because we all know this is a copy of the P51 I don't think I would have cluttered up the engine bay with anything phony like Make believe exhaust stacks or anything But I guess it was important to make it look like it has the Merlin V12...when anyone with ear's can clearly hear the sound of the Big 540..I liked the look on his face with the Starter Bendix started talking But all this is a part of the process when your fabricating one off parts ...

Engine needs to come back out...

11:09 There is not enough tooth contact on the drive gear in this belt design, it will fail!

Wish it had the Orenda OE600 instead

V - 12?

Get that Rolls-Royce engine make it a Merlin lol

Now with real machine gun sound!

All the experts will ever get this engine right nobody does for a very long time

Be careful guys. Big block Chevy airplanes are prone to failures.

Just put a straight 4 cylinder chevy in it

Is that someone farting at 2:50?

It is a good day to die. Hokaheh!

Belts cannot have been in the original design? If they drive cam-shafts, then catastrophic damage can result from slippage.

I am going to guess the weight of the engine around 485 pounds .

nót meant to be easy ~ shortstepped

Don’t fly it. 😂

Ide put a prop on it before you start it.

Unfortunately they never run very long Without problems

Initial starting sequence did not leave me with a lot of confidence in Jan's start up knowledge. He seemed confused. Just my thoughts.

It looks like the fan is connected to the harmonic damper. With little clearance it will cause a low pressure away from the engine, just like blocking a vacuum inlet. If the harmonic has a rubber separator it will cause it to expand axially. If the rubber is damaged it may have moved towards the external housing already. Why does it need a fan anyway? That belt design is not good in the mind of this engineer. I don't understand why your are using such a poorly designed engine also, and why are you using a distributor and magneto. No way was it designed by engineers, engineers don't use imperial measurement also.

Fake v12

Doesn't it need a propeller for a flywheel. This automotive engine should have never been approved for aircraft. It has a bad reputation

death trap.