Thank you so much I'm glad I was able to hit the niche perfectly for ya lol I have been having some weird clogging issues , probably self inflicted to be honest , but it's led me to replace the hit end to an all metal one which I was planning on doing anyway. That is probably going to be the next piece of content for this awesome machine !

Love this video as well, just got one for my birthday, so I have a lot to learn. Now a Mandalorian helmet is you can print that is so cool.

That's an awesome present to receive! If you have any questions or want me to cover any topic let me know and I'll do my best.

I am actually putting a metal extruder on as we speak ! Gulf Coast Robotics all metal, not sure if I am going to have to print a new fan shroud or not based on how high the nozzle is but we'll see. I love it when you can print on a surface and then just have it pop off afterwards no cleanup, I am actually looking into a PEI flex sheet for that purpose, because I got such good results from the ones I have on my Aquila/Enders. Also I am looking to equip this bad boy with a BLTouch, just having a hard time finding any information on the pins in our motherboard. Been really happy with this machine I'm glad you've had similar results, and thanks for the comment!!

@@PrintsLeo3D absolutely! I haven't made the decision to switch print surfaces simply because the glass has been working. If id had issues with it, I would consider it tho.

Stick with what works, literally!

I have 2 S8s and I love them. They've printed great for me but I haven't done too much modding. Since this video a lot of people have reached out to me to help with some issues they've experienced, so this printer has given people some headaches. I also have a CR10 and I will say they produce about the same quality prints, the only downside to the S8 is the hot end mounting is mirrored from all Ender models, so finding fan shrouds and accessories that fit can be tough. Otherwise I'm still loving my S8

Thanks Jeff. I appreciate you giving me some time and watching the vids!

Thank you so much, I'm glad I was able to help !

​@@PrintsLeo3DBye! Now some questions... You say the printer is noisy.... so, is it possible to update the tmc drivers without changing the stock board? Is it possible to install an auto leveling probe (switch, bl-touch, inductive...). And what about to install an open source marlin firmware (or cr10s firmware...)? Can you suggest some really useful upgrades to improve print quality? Many thanks;-)!

TMC drivers I am not sure about (although I would think so, might need to add some additional cooling). I am looking into adding a BLTouch right now, it's definitely possible just a matter of finding the right pins in our motherboard. Yes we can also upgrade our Marlin firmware, which is going to be necessary once I get that BLTouch installed. There's also the EZabl from TH3D as far as bed leveling goes, and it comes with a firmware package. This video goes through a few upgrades, the EZabl being one of them kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e5dodsurvtTQe5s.html

B it sounds like you have yourself a nice plan! For the TPU you don't necessarily need to convert to a direct extruder, if you just upgrade the extruder to a BMG clone style extruder you can still use the stock Bowden setup (although that assumes the stock setup is Bowden style, as I'm not familiar with this iteration of the printer). Other than that your plans sound amazing and I like you have gone wireless, and it's hard to go back lol! Good luck !

@@PrintsLeo3D I'm trying to shoot some pretty soft TPU, literally around cooked spaghetti! I also like direct drive for faster filament changes, including mid print, which this is supposed to respond to an M600 for filament change as I like to do a color change now and then mid print. I have a number of Bowden and direct drive printers, and have just never seen better prints out of the Bowden but admittedly haven't tried racing both to see if the Bowden's will indeed top out at a faster print speed due to the lower hotend mass. But, speed isn't my thing as it's just a hobby and I don't keep the printers I have now really busy since printing a ton of Gridfinity and also a large Settlers of Catan set.

B, all that matters is you're making an informed decision, and it seems you know what you're doing so you keep it up! The gridfinity stuff is amazing and I was just talking to my cousin about Catan. He's pretty into it but I've never played, seems like the kind of game I'd like.

@@PrintsLeo3D My family enjoys Catan a lot, so if you like board games and strategy games, you might give it a go. It's the "Monopoly" of the rest of the world, but being a "Euro Game" means you stay in the running until the end, unlike Monopoly where after you get behind it's pretty much all over. Just converted the Sunlu to direct drive today. I also used a Satsana Air Cooler I had printed for an Aquila but never used to give me double sided cooling and a larger 5015 blower for it since the cooling on the stock S8 is a bit anemic. I had to cut and widen the clearance for the wider stock heatsink it has which took a little while and I could have just pulled the model from Thingiverse into Tinkercad and chopped it out for a reprint, but since it was all behind the scenes inside I didn't care how it looked. I also managed to drill a hole from behind the heatsink fan down through to let the LED fall into place below the Satsana for a bit of a view when printing. The Ender conversion kit worked perfectly and was dead lined up for the stock extruder: www.amazon.com/dp/B09KG8MMQ2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Now all that remains is to swap out the extruder head for one more closed up since the stock head looks like it has little chance of not having TPU escape. But it's printing well direct drive and looks good.

That's great news! Sounds like you're through the hard parts and now you can start tweaking as needed. Good luck with the printer and whenever you get some nice TPI prints done head over to my Discord (link in description) and show them off !

It's been holding up good aside from a few things I have done wrong. I was getting really nice prints off this for several weeks, and decided I wanted to 'upgrade' the hot end to an all metal hot end. While I was doing that I also decided to add a BL Touch, dual geared extruder, and then upgrade the firmware. All went well, the BL Touch is a really nice improvement considering my bed had a large dip in it, but I just don't like the hot end I decided to use. It's a standard Gulf Coast Robotics all metal hot end, I have installed about 9 of these, all on my Ender 3s and my Voxelab Aquila. The size of the hot end doesn't really work well on this machine. Cooling can be an issue with the JAYO but there is a nice printable fan shroud (Red Squirrel) that does a lot to help with airflow, but because I installed an all metal hot end that was shorter than the original hot end I can no longer use the Red Squirrel fan shroud. I have to use the stock fan shroud which is good in most scenarios but not great when you are printing models with severe overhangs. I did also buy a second Jayo S8 Plus, and at the moment have kept it completely bone stock. It's printing wonderfully! I have had an increased print demand through the month of October and both Jayos have been printing 24 hours a day around the clock. I prefer the prints I am getting on the newer fully stock Jayo however they're both printing well. So in closing, all two of my Jayos are still printing well with no major side effects or drawbacks. If I could do something differently I would not install the all metal hot end and instead I would keep the stock hot end, upgrade it's heat break to an aluminum heat break, and equip it with the Red Squirrel fan shroud (which I plan on reverting to once the busy month of October comes to an end). Also one more upgrade I added to the original Jayo was a PEI coated flexible build plate, and that has been terrific! I just purchased a BIQU flexible build plate for my newer Jayo but have not yet had a chance to install it. Red Squirrel fan shroud: RedSquirrelHobbies - www.thingiverse.com/thing:4293814

If I'm not mistaken you can buy a Creality style 42-40 stepper motor (or similar - Nema 17 stepper motor) and it should fit in perfectly for this application, providing the correct amount of torque. Buying brands Creality or Two Trees should be a pretty safe buy but do some research beforehand just in case! Good luck and keep printing. Let me know if you need any other help.

That's no good. Have you had any experience in the past with that machine? I've always wonder how well they print and maintain.

Possibly there's an issue with stock right now. On the US Amazon the JAYO store has them currently in stock. Is there any way to send a message to the store front ?

I appreciate the compliment. So on this machine "auto-leveling" is a bit of a misnomer. The bed leveling function only helps you manually level the bed by navigating to four spots on the bed with a click of the knob. At each location you can adjust the Z offset and level the bed, then after your satisfied a click of the button brings you to the next location. I'm still blown away by the value of this machine. I have been getting great prints sinc assembly. Just finished another Mandalorian Helmet through a power outage and filament running out, still this machine printed it flawlessly.

Hi! You know printing can be a tough hobby sometimes, most of that is us spent calibrating and testing various aspects of the printer hoping it all turns out well in the end. What type of problems are you having? Is the model coming losses from the bed? Does the hot end stop extruding? Are some of the layers shifting as it prints and not lining up properly? There's so much that goes into each print, but if we break it down piece by piece we can get to the bottom of your troubles.

Tree supports are now baked into Cura. There's a drop down under supports, I believe called support type, where it can be changed from the standard supports to Tree support. Now you may need to have "expert" or "all" features tab selected, which opens up more options for each drop down menu. If you have do have "all" selected then under Supports you'll have an array of different options that will let you customize how your supports work and get applied that you can tweak to make removing them easier. Cura does have a way to place individual supports, it's not intuitive but can be useful. There's an option called "Support Blocker" on the left side panel. This option places scalable cubes that block supports. However once these cubes are placed on a model they can be selected. Then you can use another tool that is along the left side panel (I believe it is above the support blocker option?) that can change what the cube does. You can have that scalable cube become a support, and this way you can place and scale them to your leisure. I am recording an intro to Cura video, and once that is released I'll be able to create some advanced videos such as this topic!

Thanks for leaving a comment but I don't quite understand the issue you're having. Is the printer rejecting the filament ? Can you print any models at all?

Yes I absolutely can and will help! Try me at my email printslep3d@gmail.com or the more direct way is to join my Discord discord.gg/YHFJEjFv

Try straightening out the filament first. You have to make sure it isn't bowed or bent, especially at the very tip, to get it to pass through cleanly. Usually I'll cut the filament at an angle straighten out the first 60mm or so and try and pass it through, if it doesn't want to go I'll clip another 10mm and see if I can get it then.

When you say hot bed are you referring to the top bed surface, such as a glass plate or PEI coated flex plate? Or do you mean the actual aluminum bed that is attached to the frame with the roller wheels ?

I would love too! Another commenter asked for the same thing but honestly I'm not quite sure how to share it. I will say I am using basically the stock Creality CR10 setup from Cura. I adjusted the flow and e-steps on my machine but that's about it ( I have videos on both btw you could find in my library, the are based on the Voxelab Aquila it all works the same here ). Once I find a way to share this I will. Congrats on the purchase, it's such a good printer , and thank you for commenting !

That's actually a great topic. I can definitely do a video on how I use supports and support blocking. Great idea 🙂

I'm happy you're joining the club! It's good you have an Aquila and are familiar with it already because this printer is pretty similar in design except for the in creased build size. So far I have updated the firmware and added a BL Touch. Also added a PEI bed sheet which really improves quality of life when you don't have to worry about having to fight prints getting off your build plate. I am in the middle of replacing the thermistor right now to get this back to operating shape. Really like this machine with the BL Touch, but I am not really pleased with my firmware at the moment. Not sure if it's something I did or the thermistor going bad but since the upgraded firmware with BL Touch the printer has been a little hit or miss temperature-wise. I am pretty sure the thermistor is to blame, once I have it sorted and I figure our if the culprit was my thermistor (and not my firmware) I'll be adding a BL Touch install video for this. Just don't want to put information out there unless I am very certain it's going to help and not hinder! I have two of these now though and both have been chugging along (one with the BL Touch and one is still stock). Thanks for watching !

@@PrintsLeo3D Th3d has firmware but it seems geared to their ezabl. Haven't really seen much online about bl touch on them so it will be a good video to have out there.

Yes I've seen that one also. The install isn't tough it's just I want to make sure I tighten up the firmware before I post a video in it. It's in the pipeline though .

That's a great question and one I was wondering about when I first got it. I never truly found out but ultimately I don't think it really matters, you can curate all the settings for nozzle size (line width, layer height, etc) inside of your slicer. I just stuck to considering it a 0.4 nozzle and then by the time I replaced it I slotted an actual 0.4 nozzle in and all was good! For any setting inside my slicer that directly asked for my nozzle size, I chose 0.4.

@@PrintsLeo3D yea tbh idk how to tell what issues are on the printer but the prints aren't there great right now I should probably do the belts though and oil it up it is loud so it probably needs oil

I would make sure the E-steps have been calibrated, then maybe a PID tune, the factory settings are pretty good but it's always best to adjust them once the printer is in the setting it will normally be printing in. Of course adjusting those belts makes a lot of difference too if there's significant play. What sort of printing issues have you been experiencing?

@@PrintsLeo3D I think it's bridging I'm not sure my voxelab aquila prints better though the prints on it are smooth and stuff

It could be a matter of just setting up a decent print profile in your slicer, maybe slow some things down. As for the bridging I read a lot of other users with similar issues before I bought this. I really haven't encountered any significant cooling/bridging issues, but people were recommending the Red Squirrel fan shroud to help with that. Worth a look if you want to get some better cooling. cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/red-squirrel-fan-shroud-for-sunlu-s8-4010-4020-5015-bl-touch-redsquirrelhobbies

When you are in the main screen of Cura, with a model on he build plate , the drop-down to the right has that option. You need to click the tab that says "Custom" this brings up a new set of drop downs. Select the Support drop down. Then select "generate Support" , when you do this it will open up many more options, one of them being "support structure". This drop down will then let you select the type of support you want "normal" or "tree". Hope this helps !!

I did Bill, but to be honest it's rudimentary at best the way I check it. I have an additional piece of aluminum extrusion that I line up across the axes to see how flush they are. I also printed a speed square from thingiverse that I also use to check how square they are. That's a really good point and something that's very easy to overlook.

Thanks for watching, I think calibrating while putting these machines together is such a huge key to long term (slightly)hassle-free printing. In Cura I use the Creality CR10s profile, and then just changed the bed size to 310 x 310, haven't had to modify anything beyond that.

@@PrintsLeo3D Thanks! This is exactly what I came to ask too! Great video. This convinced me to give this printer a shot.

It's on sale right now for Prime Day! Best time to get one.

I got 2 at 229 each and one for 239... all upgraded versions. They are amazing

Yea I'm really happy with how these printers have been holding up for me!

Sunlu apparently is trying to rebrand themselves and have changed a lot of product lines from Sunlu to Jayo. I'm not even sure if rebrand is a correct term for it, Jayo might just be a subsidiary, because as far as I know Sunlu is still releasing products under the original name. This is in fact a Sunlu S8 Plus, any parts that would fit that printer would fit this, but from here forward it's being released as a Jayo S8 Plus.

I can't remember exactly but I believe in that particular instance it was an 8 hour or so print. Print time will differ based on so many factors such as print speed (which itself can be broken down by the speed of the travel moves, speed of infill, speed of perimeters, etc) which I believe was printing at 40 mm/sec. There's also the amount of infill you are printing(this was 20%), how many walls you've chosen(this was 2), and also the type of supports(tree supports) can affect print time so your mileage may vary.

@@PrintsLeo3D awesome, thank you for the insight. I appreciate it

I do! I have more information in the info below the video but you could find me on Etsy with the same name PrintsLeo3D. Cheers!

Thanks so much for all the views lol having a warped build plate like this is really a bummer and can be hard to work around. When you run your leveling tests how does it print ? Are the edges printing fine but center isn't ? Is the center printing fine but the edges aren't ? Outside of trying to shim the build plate there's not a while lot we can do. I have added a BL Touch to mine since this video and I was able to remove any added shims and it's printing great. I have considered releasing a BL Touch install video for this machine but I'm not fully comfortable with the firmware upgrade that accompanies it. Hopefully I'll get some more time to prune the firmware a little better and I can get this video out there .

@@PrintsLeo3D I have spent much time to level the plate and the only thing i have printed it was the skirt auround. The squares cannot even stick on plate, and they are only 3 or 4 cm far the skirt. Maybe I should try with a smaller surface and be content for it. It was my fault to have chosen this as first printer. In your opinion should i contact the assistance?

Depending on where you bought this printer and how long ago you should certainly call customer service and/or request a refund. Leveling the bed is a tough task and it takes time to get it right but relying on what you said , which is you have tried leveling this bed for a long time, it's very possible your build plate is warped badly enough that no amount of leveling will suffice. When you level the bed are you using the built in leveling process ? Or are you disabling the stepper motors and moving the hot end around manually ? The only other step you can take, and this is note of an adhesion solution than a leveling one, is to apply a thin layer of purple glue stick to your bed surface to see if that helps adhere the filament to the bed. Really a tough spot to be in and I hope it works out for you.

@@PrintsLeo3D I recently bought one also and am having a similar issue. The thing is that I don't think it's a leveling problem because I can print the shamrock file that comes with the printer without issue. However any file I slice peels up off of the plate and starts moving around with the printer head. I'm using Cura 4.12.1 with the CR-10 profile. Any tips would be welcome. Great video and thank you!

Getting great adhesion can be so tough sometimes. Have you adjusted the Z offset for the printer? I have a seperate video that deals with bed leveling /z offset. Bed leveling is unfortunately only half the battle, once we know the Bed is Level we need to adjust for the gap that we created during the leveling process. I would recommend watching my Bed level/z offset video because I have a feeling this is what's plaguing your printer. Let me know if that video helps at all!

This printer was printing great for me, so much so I bought a second. Over some time though j wasn't using the large build sizes as much, and I was getting more printers and having less space, so unfortunately I got rid of them both. I know since this video there have been some updates to this model though which should have made it a little more advanced than the one I had in this video.

@@PrintsLeo3D thank for your reply. I'm going to get one and hotrod it with King and try out my Creality laser kit on it.

That sounds really cool, I haven't gotten into any of the laser stuff yet but the tech looks awesome ! Good luck and be safe, I hope this works out well for you !

It's a solid printer, does what you want it to do and doesn't ask much. I've got two now and they're both doing well. If you're in the market for that large build volume on a budget then for me it's the way to go. If the build size isn't the end all be all to you then I would consider the Eryone ER20 or Voxelab Aquila.

@@PrintsLeo3D I started out with an Ender 3v2 that I've been very happy with. Was actually looking at the Ender 3 S1 or even the Kingroon KP3S when I stumbled upon the S8 Plus. Though I'm not sure I necessarily NEED the larger build volume it seems like a lot of printer for the money at $200. Especially considering the changes they've made to the Plus version.

Unfortunately no, this model does not come with silent stepper drivers. It's a pretty noisy printer, the noisiest of the bunch for me (ender 3 pro, ender 3 v2, Voxelab Aquila, Creality CR10). I think I might be swapping out the mainboard sometime soon to something that does have silent stepper drivers.

@@PrintsLeo3D Could be a nice fix with e.g. SKR 1.4 board with some 2209 steppers or similar

I have an SKR Mini E3 V2.0 sitting around sitting around from another project that didn't get off the ground. I've been considering it for a while now, I think it might be time.

I certainly could if you like but I don't have much special going on, I just used a Creality CR10S profile and kept it mostly stock. In Cura, when you are adding a printer, find "Creality3D" and select it to drop down printers, then I chose the Creality CR10S. I don't think I made too many additions to that. If you want my profile I can send it via email, just drop me a line at PrintsLeo3D@gmail.com . Can I ask what type of problems you've been having? I have been having a few clogging issues as of late and am planning on adding an All Metal hot end on. Video should be out within the next few weeks I hope!

@@PrintsLeo3D Hey that worked! thank you so much! its actually printed the part that I wanted. I did the setup like you asked and put it under Creality CR10S4. before, I just did custom and tried to manually set it up and it kept off to the side and tried printing outside the area. I did notice that it is printing super fast and that is probably because I have it set to .4mm for printing layer size. What layer setting did you print your Yoda or Mando helmet? or what do you recommend for a smoother and better quality?

The nozzle size that is shipped with the S8 is a 0.4mm nozzle size (actually I think it's 0.45). That measurement, 0.4mm, is the width of the nozzle opening, and at that size the largest layer height you could properly print with that nozzle is 0.32mm high. For the Mando helmet and the yoda I chose to print at a 0.2mm layer height and my printing speed was relatively low at 40mm/sec. You just want to make sure at the top screen in Cura 0.4mm nozzle is selected(it's right next to the printer profile name), then in the print settings menu - in the QUALITY drop down, you can set your LAYER HEIGHT there. There's also a SPEED dropdown that will let you check your PRINT SPEED. Hope this helps!

Thanks for watching and I'm glad you're entering the 3d printing world. I'd be happy to help as much as I can. I'm not sure exactly what difficulties you're experiencing. Are you using Cura as a slicer (which turns the models into gcode for the printer)? Are you printing at the middle of the Bed but the models are printing at the corners ?

@@PrintsLeo3D I was using cura but the printer refused to start printing in the center of the print plate, it also shut itself down ever time I tried to print so I sent it back as a lemon and will be getting a better model.

That's so strange. Did you make sure the voltage selector on the psu was in the correct spot for your location? 115v if you're in the United States. That's really awful you got a lemon out of the box. Once you get back up and running I'll help however I can to get you printing.

@@PrintsLeo3D Much appreciated.

@@PrintsLeo3D So I just got my new printer set up sir, a Longer LK5 Pro, is the offer to help me get this thing working still good?

I certainly could, I don't think I really changed much do from the base settings but I'd be happy to share. I use the Creality CR10 profile, as the build volume is the same. I am away on vacation now so I have no access to my computer but when I get back I'll drop you a line.

@@PrintsLeo3D Does this printer SUNLU S8 Plus have silent stepper drivers?

Unfortunately it does not. Definitely one of my loudest printers, but I will say the fan regulating main board temperature was surprisingly quiet for what that's worth.

I'm sorry I thought I had responded to this. The max temperature the hot end will reach out of the factory, is 260c. However I know a lot of people have had jamming issues with the hot end, myself included as of recently, which makes me think either poor cooling or the fact that the bowden tube presses up against the very long heat break may be at fault. With that in mind I probably wouldn't go over 220c with the factory hot end. I am going to be posting a video installing a Gulf Coast Robotics all metal hot end that can withstand high temperatures, up to 300c (but you'd have to go into the firmware to achieve that temperature). Hope this helps, still an awesome machine!

I'm not sure if your asking what I used for bed leveling? I just use a small post-it note

I would never ditch my Aquila, wish I had room for more of them lol. I love branching out though, that's how I found the Voxelab Aquila, so I'm always on the lookout for a solid printer at a great price. Thanks for watching!

I haven't had to contact support for their products yet, but I'm sure it's possible mileage may vary depending on the instance. I know a lot of people who have had nothing but issues with Creality and their customer support. Sounds like they gave you a hard time and I don't like to hear that. I appreciate the feedback so others can consider it. That being said right now the way 3d printers are being made, feature packed and costed low, it would be wise for companies that are offering machines that are outdated or outmatched to at the minimum offer buyers the support they need.