Awesome video.. Hope I never have to do that... But great to know, love these garage videos, not super edited, just pure garage mechanic

Forgot to mention, I bought 3 TSDZ2 units (2017), I installed one on a hub-drive with 7speed Nexus and the rear brake functions as it should and the motor does not drive the cranks/pedals unless it is acting to "assist". I have now installed the the second unit only to discover that it is different, with the free-wheeling crank when back-peddling. Thanks for all your informative videos, I do not feel alone now that I have found this reference.

I want to thank you for this video! My pedals had begun slipping a while ago, and I've just been getting by pedaling lighter and using higher assist levels, but that's not a good long term solution! If I ever ran out of battery, I knew I would be stuck. I ordered the bearing and ~LUCKILY~ I pressed it out the right direction!!! There was (on mine, anyway) a small lip or shoulder in the bore of the gear that stops the bearing from going out the back. It has to come out the front and go in the front and you show in your video. But luckily I pressed it the right way and thanks to your video I got everything back in place, and now I can stand on the pedals and there's no slipping! 🎉🎉👍👍 Thanks a lot, mate! From Canada, riding my TSDZ2 in the snow and ice.

Thank you for this video. I found it very useful to understand how to disassemble the TSDZ2. My motor has done 500 miles and every so often it 'crunches' under medium / high load, similar to the noise if your chain skipped over a tooth. Not sure the sprag clutch is causing this however I do have lots of lateral movement on the chain ring which I now see is due to excessive play in the sprag clutch. Annoying thing is that the bearing appears to be stuck on the shaft. It moves 1mm or so but no more than that regardless of how much force I apply. The inner axle soon came out but the bearing and sprocket refuse to separate from the outer axle . I ordered a CSK30P made by KYK of Japan but as it stands I will not be able to fit it. Overall the quality of this motor is poor. It is clear there has been water ingress on both sides, which will only have come from road spray entering through the side casings. I had to drill out two seized allen key bolts from the casing on the electric motor side. The 4 counter sinks holding the motor in chewed up with very little force. I can replace screws and bearings with better quality items and assemble with suitable grease but this is not what you would expect to do with a new item in the $300 price range. Shame, as when it works the motor is impressive. Thanks again for the video.

Thanks mate, very straightforward to replace once I'd seen the video. Mine occurred after about 2,500 km. Full speed ahead now.

Many thanks!! My clutch, that bearing got damage on the 2nd day of using the ebike :-( -- now I understand better and know what I should replace.

Thanks! This video really helped and saved me buying the full assembly from China with its listed 40-day delivery and presumably another crappy bearing. My sprag clutch had properly cracked along the keyway after 3,500 miles and it was seized on the shaft quite tightly, which made the job interesting. I used your method of screwing the bolts in and used a claw hammer on alternate sides to pry the bearing off the outer axle (the one with the big circlip) - which pushed the inner axle out through the other side. That didn't cause any problems that I could see when I reassembled, so all good. I was able to press the bearing out in a bench vice with a few strategically placed pieces of wood and light application of a blowtorch to heat the gear. Took a fair bit of force though, and 3 hands would have been useful. Getting the new one on was easier. With the new German made bearing, I think my TDSZ2 is good for another 10,000 miles!

Thank you so much for making your videos. I was thinking that the slipping problem was from my brass gear acting up and was about to give up until I found this video. I will be buying a new bearing tomorrow!

Thank you for that, and the part number. Just ordered one £7 to uk

Nice info thanks.

thanx for video. i got this problen after 1500 km.

Thanks for the video, mine started crunching too much by 550km (all of it hard offroad riding), ordered a new one from a Melbourne company on eBay, may need find a car repair shop to get it pressed out/in.

Just a follow up - Some motors will have a press fit bearing on the shaft as in the video & some will have a taper fit bearing like mine that you have to knock off the shaft.

Thx for the useful post about working on the TSDZ2, but WADR it should have been titled "TSDZ2-Replacing the Sprag Clutch, a One Way Bearing (ie its freewheel)"..... Since I know there was at least one mechanical engineer, who didn't know what at a Sprag Clutch was before today.... And applying the grease to teeth of the gear before installing it, would be more efficient.

FOR THIS REPAIR, YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE SMALL PRESSURE WASHER.

how is this product ? how many Km before this problem happened ? after 6 months of hard use

Congrats for your video. One question: do you know where to purchase the X-shape seal on the main plastic cover?

My 36 volt - 350 watt unit (Probably original version) just quit. Was working fine but no error codes, just stopped working. Taken apart & all connections checked but power isn't getting through to the motor. I am guessing maybe something in the Controller has died or maybe one of the 3 phase circuits? Before I order replacements is there a way to test the Controller or Motor, either in place or removed for bench testing? Thank you.

Hi thanks for this video! I'm interested in the music you are playing with the video. Also since I ride XC with my 12 year old daughter, i want to get her a mid- drive motor to help her ride farther with me and make it a longer more fun trip. Are you aware of aftermarket chainrings that offer 36 or 34 or even 32 tooth options? Nice video work. Much appreciated!

Good videos and very well explained. I have a 700 km Tongsheng engine, when the pedals are turned, the engine does not work and the error E02 appears, turning the pedals in the opposite direction is very resistant. He disassembled the engine and the blue gear is correct but the engine costs a lot to turn it in any direction, can the engine be burned and be the source of the problem? What kind of fault does the Sprag clutch give you? Regards

Hi John. What is the name of the tool that you used to remove those washers? It looks like pincers. Thank you.

I have a TSDZ2B version, I have found the chainring is beginning to rub against the dust cover that you have removed. Any ideas how to reduce the play to stop the chainring moving against the cover?

Did you have to remove anything before wiggling the Gear & Bearing assembly off at 3:10? I Can't get much movement on the shaft with mine using your method of removal. Thank you

Hi, thanks for video. What happened that the bearing needed replaced?

Any other bearings I should keep on hand? Thanks for the informative videos.

I got the problem after 300km... The front chainring is wiggling sideways, and the only thing moving is the outer ring of the bearing.

My motor did not have the brass washers under the drive gear. I have a newer version of the motor, where the drive gear has helical teeth. Do you know if they got rid of the washers, or am I missing stuff from the factory? There is also lateral play of the clutch on the axle : (. This transmits play to the spider, and so the chain line changes under torque.

As I have seen it right, than you can ad a throttle and the bike will ride, while you don't have to pedal? Can you also change the 42t chain ring for an other one? 50 for shipping. Wow, are they delivering it in a golden box or something? End of the month, I order my e-assist. For the befang I have seen that they have other size chain rings and I am thinking to get one of those on the thongshen tsdz2 assist. But that depends if I go for a 20 inch rear wheel.

When you pressed in the new bearing (sprag clutch) did you use red Lok-Tite between the outer bearing surface and the gear bearing pocket? Thanks.

Hello, I need some advice. After 100km and 2 days of rain my torque sensor (I'm guessing) started to play up. I need to press the pedals very hard to get any assist, do you know what kind of problem and solution might be to fix that? Thanks for help

Hello, nice video , i have a new motor 150 km and i have a crak in de motor only wen i stop peddeling it craks , can it be de clutch bearing that is bad? krg Rob

Thank you for sharing this video! Sometimes the crankset of my TSDZ2 goes completely free (as if there was no chain in a non assited bicycle). It started doing it about a year ago, only randomly, early in the morning, when I am starting using the bike. Now it does it more often, but it doesn't do it when I am going up hill or put a lot of pressure on the pedals. It does it only randomly on the flat, when there's little pressure on the pedal. To be able to get traction on the cranckset again, I must stop pedaling, make half turn backways, and start pedaling again with some good pressure. Note that when the crankset goes completely free, it doesn't matter if I turn off the the battery. It will do it even if I don't go electrical assisted. Do you think is the sprag clutch, or the torque sensor? Or something else?.... Thank you!! 🙂 Luca

My problem is intermittent it just started to happen it is now unridable I can hear the motor spinning but there is no drive. Supplier wanted a video. I did setup walk mode. Put front wheel against bench applied the throttle and can hear the motor spinning. It then suddenly engages with a bang. It is only 4 months old and is fitted with the brass gear. It has been to the supplier and they diagnosed a motor controller blaming my instalation causing excess load on something in the motor I paid for a replacement controller. The Motor was returned bench tested! but it still has the same problem. They are contacting the factory with my video. I think it is one of the one way bearings there has been no pedal slipping under load.

I have a rear braking hubdrive with 7speed Nexus and need the rear brake. The mid-drive model I have i pedal assist without the accelerator, it has the free-wheeling crank and I need to replace some component to do this. Does that mean I need to replace the sprag clutch with a solid drive? Where can I source that part?

How did the new sprag clutch hold up? Was it working well despite the low price?

Hi, I don't understand what type of engine is yours, I bought the foot brake version by mistake, is there a one-way clutch in my version? If so, can I turn the clutch into a freewheel by simply changing the bearing?

how to replace bearing??

you could tell me what code the bearing has, so I also order it. Thank you

Mine slips under high pedaling torque, but it is a very smooth slip.. I'm wondering if this could be the sprag bearing slipping inside the gear itself? Has anyone had the sprag clutch slip like this instead of a jerking type slip?

Can I put gear TSDZ2 in TSDZ2B?

My tsdz2 engine has no speed. Turn on, but it's too slow. I already opened it, removed the sensor and only the engine is slow, at low speed. With the sensor, same problem. Is that the problem, the Torque sensor?

endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=220890 look this instruction before trying of replace Sprag Clutch

I'm experiencing some noise on mine, do you know if it coud be related to the bearing? here is the noise I'm talking about : kzfaq.infobPzXz8fFZeI ( it happens even without the chain on it, and powered off ), thank you!