Its even easier to hot-air the new chip back on, all pins soldered at once, gets pulled into place by surface tension, so long as enough flux is used. However sometimes hot-air blows components around which is annoying.

I know, you begin to see a pattern.

Not dumb to take time to properly repair a paying persons amp. I don't want to see it again, but thanks.

@@The_Active_Region I didn't mean it in that way, of course what you did is everything but dumb, sorry for using the word dumb, i'm the only dumb here! haha, what i mean is that from my experience, it seems impractical to take 13 minutes to change 1 IC using the same method for a damaged part, and a good part, so what i would do to remove the bad part is just heat the entire pads,alternating between both sides with a controlled temperature iron and a flat tip, and go all over the pins adding just enough solder for thermal mass until the chip is released, this takes not more than 20 seconds, then i would go on with the solder wick and clean the pads as you did, keeping it all flux-wet like you did, and then i would clean it with isopropylAlchl, like you did, then , for the good part, all being cleaned, i put the ic in possition then i solder 2 corner pads, then i make sure it is aligned, once aligned , and with a flat iron i add solder all over the pads, and then with solder wick clean the excess, this gives you a reflow finish to your end fix, and at the end clean it with isopropylAlchl, of course, like you did, try it, and tell me how it goes. Cheers! i like your channel! :D

I've done it that way as well. It all depends on how I want to do it at the moment. Sometimes the re flow method might add more heat than needed to the new IC and can be a small bit riskier with bad or cold solder joints if not done properly.

The voltages seem normal but not the diode issue.

I use an arbitrary waveform generator. Either type would work.

I just dig around on google. Sometimes I get lucky, sometimes not.

Might be normal but not sure on that amp.

Class D Is more complicated with that. It is somewhat combined width a pulse with modulated signal. Then filtered. Some reading here if you like. www.maximintegrated.com/en/app-notes/index.mvp/id/3977

Pure Silicone

yes, you're fine to put in higher voltage caps.

75 amps of high current but only 110 watts a channel... Eh, I don’t think so.

Bugs Bunnay High current failure of some kind. Would require inspection/diagnostics.

It might be possible that the op amps may have took a hit but I would check to see when the amp is powered on if you have DC voltage from the power supply ground to the outer shield of the RCA. It should be under a volt or nothing. If high DC is present there you may have some digging to do. You could have a cracked mica insulator on a Mosfet somewhere or something shorting to RCA ground. Without fully understanding the situation or not having a schematic, its hard to tell you what to look for.

Kev31779 Thanks for your help I appreciate it enormously.im just going to change out every single opamp I checked voltage on em and I'm only geting -1v amp running and I have about 20v going in to that section I hope I'm right I have 2 more rockford amps. for spear parts and I checked the other rockford running and it shows voltage on some of the pins on those opamps but none on the dead evil rockford 800a2 lol sorry to bother so much befor a change them out is there a another way I.Can check those opamps for function with a dmm.

Zander Nicholas its not just replace fets you need to balance the amp

bjtaudio Could have been too heavy a load, but things just fail sometimes, and when there’s problems in the drive output stage it will usually take other things with it.

Yes it certainly does, it can make an expensive mess..

supposed to be around 1400 or 1500 RMS, you can make It go to 1 ohm, watch the bare vids vid on it! Don't forget that there are people out there testing RMS in different ways. I think it's standard to test it at a certain % distortion at 510khz perhaps or something like this but some of these guys are testing at 40Hz and stuff like sweeping bass waves. Makes more sense to compare what is relevant in that frequency range they are working with but it's not a way to compare how we talk about classic RMS in the ~HIFi world etc. It's like they are creating a new standard for the world of what works with bass.

One of the amplifier fets shorted from source or drain to the gate pin causing it to kill the IC driving them. Whenever something shorts to gate it is never a good sign and could cause driving issues. How the fet died I have no idea. Maybe over driving, loose heat sink screws or just a part ready to fail.

Thank you.

@@The_Active_Region Yes!!, whenever there is a breakdown voltage reached betweet Gate and source (Vgs), there is no way of bringing back that FET, that is why it is so important to have Calmping diodes between these two pins to prevent any excessive level of (Vgs), hence keeping it below breakdown levels! check for instance the datasheet for The MOSFET STP7NK80ZFP, and look at how the dioes are clamping voltages between Gate and Source.

Hmm bizarre. From what I remember it had class D pre-drive circuits. Only worked on one of these models so I don't know the amp all that well.

@@The_Active_Region So I actually discovered it was being advertised incorrectly as AB. But JBL notified sellers site that it is a class D. I wonder if it is 1 ohm stable?

I use 99%

No, is class D. One website mislabeled it as class AB when they got it confused with the GTO1004. If you watch this video you'll see clearly it is a class D in fullbridge with high side bootstrap, 2010 class D mosfet driver and so on.

jerry davison if u were in ajax ontario i can fix all ur audio gear as i have in the repair business 22+yrs . i charge from $15-80

I think it is some kind of hybrid. The pre-driver board was class D or something from what I remember.

So probably more efficient than the average class a/b? I recently bought one used which is why i ask. Thanks for the reply by the way. I watch all your repair videos

No problem and thanks.

Anunaki atlantis When you’re removing a bad chip its not so relevant how long you heat it. Long enough to remove it. He was also at different distances for even heat.

praestant8 i mean for new chip

kiya fault hai