The honest salesman "you want to shoot better, shoot more" versus the regular salesman "definitely buy these to improve your score"

Good video. If you don't mind, I might be able to add to your research. I shoot both 50mm and 90mm Spider vanes: one of outdoors and one for indoors. The only time I get damage is from arrow impact from other arrows coming into the target---that can tear a vane in half. Riser contact will not damage the vanes. If you want to check for riser contact, spray foot power on the back half of the arrow and then check for marks in the power at the target. That will show you any contact the arrow may have with the bow, either on the vane or shaft. Vanes work because of lift, not drag. The surface of the vane allows the air flow past the arrow to push the arrow back inline--the further out of line, the great the force on the surface of the vane. The larger the vane, the more force acts on the arrow to correct it. Lift is a far better force than drag as it decreases as the arrow flight stabilizes--bare shaft need no vanes if tuned well. The online magazine Bow International has a good description of this titled Arrows: How to Minimize Drag and Maximize Lift. The down side of lift is in a cross wind: larger vanes are going to catch more air and be blown off course. I use my 90mm vanes indoors because they do correct the arrow flight faster and none of my ranges are particularly drafty. However, when shooting outdoors, I use the 50mm vanes so to be less influenced by cross winds. My 90mm vanes at 50m (I shoot barebow) really get blown around. I find the distance outdoors more forgiving for a bad release because there is more time for the arrow to correct with small vanes. I found this thought interesting: the former Dutch Olympic archer Sjef van den Berg would alway tune his arrows to be a little on the weak side. His rationale was that a bad shot was a weak shot, with less energy going into the arrow. He found that tuning slightly weak was a little more forgiving because the arrows would fly better on the bad shots as the arrows would still be in tune and fly well.

Jet 6 for me, tried so many different vanes. Better groups and easier to fletch because of the curve matching the arrow.

Think SpinWing is a registered trademark. In general, those are spin vanes.

For the algorithm

have you tested spin wings vs plastic vanes on compound bows at 50m? would be interesting to see the difference.

2 questions, have you tried the TAC vanes? & I decided to try doing an arrow wrap with 0.06mm aluminium foil tape along the length of the shaft from point to fletching's and they look like a bare aluminium shaft no seem no creases nothing and only add around 15 grains the purpose is so the club can find them with metal detector if needed and I figured carbon arrows are less likely to bend than aluminium ones, do you see any issues?

Use talc or chalk dust with your spin vanes, put in a plastic bag, put the back end of the arrow with the vanes. in the bag and shake. this will coat the exposed adhesive tape which will stop adjacent arrows sticking.