Exploring secret beaches, stunning food, temples, wildlife and surfers’ paradise on the undiscovered side of Sri Lanka. Read the full story here:
Sri Lanka is well-known as an island of contrasts. Thanks to a unique blend of climates, characters and cultures, visitors here can be sunbaked on a sweep of golden sand in the morning and, by afternoon, be pulling on a sweater in the mist-swirled, Scottish Highland-like peaks of Tea Country. I mean, where else on the planet can you watch blue whales in the Indian Ocean and wander around a UNESCO World Heritage Site on the same day? Even so, nowhere in Sri Lanka quite illustrates this island’s amazing contrariness like its coasts.
The west coast really needs no introduction. Buoyed by the close proximity of the island’s main gateway - Bandaranaike International Airport - it forms the backbone to most holiday checklists, featuring, as it does, some of Sri Lanka’s seminal tourist sights. From the beach resorts of Negombo and its hectic capital, Colombo, all the way down to the always-popular historic port and fort of Galle, it is a well-known and deservedly popular honeypot for travelers.
The east coast is the mirror opposite. Requiring a little more dedication to reach, it remains largely untouched and tourist-free, with the exception of its world-renowned surf Mecca - Arugam Bay. But aside from this enclave of hip boarders, those searching out a more serene and undiscovered experience of Sri Lanka should try weaving their way from Jaffna in the north to Okanda in the south, taking in Trincomalee, Batticaloa, Passikudah and Pottuvil. It’s a stunning ride and a legacy of the civil war is that the roads have been updated and repaired recently, meaning mostly frictionless flow from top to bottom, which is a rarity elsewhere on the island. The best way to experience it all is by car or van, with drivers and vehicles cheap to commission and giving travellers the chance to gape in wonder at the scenery and life drifting past the window.
Along the way, the east coast’s breathtaking array of temples, islands, wildlife parks and beaches reveal themselves to just as impressive as their west coast counterparts. Far more so, some would say. The major difference is that they are wonderfully quiet, retaining that sense of realness and character that is conducive to any true travel adventure. The differences don’t stop with ambience either. When the monsoon rains hammer the west coast, the east is bathed in sunshine. Aficionados of Sri Lankan cuisine will also note subtle shifts in spices and style that mean the food here is unlike the rest of the island. There are changes in the dialects of those cooking it too. This is because the west coast is largely Sinhalese, whereas the string of towns and villages on the east is mostly populated by Tamil and Muslim communities.
So for anyone seeking serenity, variety, character and off-the-beaten-path adventure, here’s our guide to Sri Lanka’s ultimate east coast road trip.