I haven’t watched in a long time. Holy crap Keith you are looking awesome!

This is a really interesting explanation of how the taper attachment works. Seems you can dial in as much precision as you need abd a really nice demo of hand lapping. Jimmy's gonna love how smooth this whole thing works. We're all glad to see this project continuing--this really is VINTAGE.

Glad to see some movement on the bandsaw. Also glad it moved the horizontal borer project forward. Seems like it made a "round-to-it"

Keith, My world of tapers is that of large ship rudders and propellers. The American Bureau of Shipping requires a 70% contact area. I witnessed the bluing of propeller shafts and rudder stocks. I was taught that the contact area should be near 100% at the start and finish of the taper, and to find a reduction in the center. If we found contact similar to the pattern you found an effort would be made to increase the contact in the center. For this bandsaw I would be really happy. To make sure there a good fit a relief in the form of a counter bore in the nut will help assure the shaft is pulled up snug. If there are issues getting the wheel and shaft do not slip a key can always be added. Bob

Thanks for continuing this Keith! As someone that neither works with their hands, or lives in a country with access to such an array of vintage machinery, I've really appreciated the channel. Hope you and the family are doing well!

Exciting to see progress on this again. You look good and even better you look like you feel good 👍

Looking forward to you spinning those bandsaw wheels on the horizontal borer

I had completely forgotten about the bandsaw. Jimmy must be very patient.

Hey Keith, thanks for your channel and website. Got to tell stories now, my coworkers would roll their eyes about now. Guy down the road was making some rolling dies, came to me to get some hss tool bits, I had some unsharpened nos bits. He asked how big of a cut he could take with his 14 inch Monarch with a 7 1/2 motor, it was up sized from 5. I have a 12x30 hendey with a 5hp running on an undersize homegrown phase converter. Chucked up a good sized chunk of mystery steel, 4340 or such about 2 inch, good rate of speed plenty of feed, touched off one turn of compound, .200 per side. Kicked on feed and thought he was going to hit the dirt. Ha, loved it. Blue chips flew. These old girls were made to move metal. Way back when I was running a Lodge and Shipley cutting steep taper threads for the oil fields. Don't remember anything to tighten down, just attachment to bed, loosen crosslide, give lots of room to take up slack. Maybe I didn't know what I was doing but I cut a lot of tapered threads, got payed piecework. Frankly best pay I ever got. 100 bucks a day back in 1982. My Hendey taper attachment has a binder nut on it, Lodge and Shipley I ran probably was the same as your Monarch, I didn't know better, just gave it more travel to take out slack, hey I had to back out of cut at end of thread. Keep putting out videos.

I sure hope Jimmy appreciates the time and effort you are putting into this restoration. The shaft taper is a thing of beauty and precision.

Really excited to see this project come back around! It's been a while!

Keith love your channel, just to say you seem to be regularly putting out YT content, I have a taper attachment on my Colchester lathe but never used it, I’m going to give it a try after seeing your video 👴🏻👍

That was very interesting and informative. Great Job!

interesting explanation of how the taper attachment works.

Good Morning Keith! 😊

Good morning Keith. Been looking forward to getting back on the bandsaw. Thanks for all the work.

KEITH GREAT JOB, GREAT VIDEO...LET'S GO TO WORK...

"Hi Jimmy... yeah, sure I can restore this band-saw for you. I just have to build an entire machine first. Then I'll be all set up for it!" Awesome !

Wish my lathe had a taper attachment. But make do with the compound. I checked and Micro Surface is still in business. Located in Oakland, CA. Thanks for sharing.

👍👍 looks great, nice job!

Love this!

Looks GREAT! Thanks!

Great work Keith!

Fascinating!

Wow. Its been awhile since I have seen Keith and now I don't see as much of him as I used to.

Thank you for sharing.👍

Amazing job as usual Keith 👍👍

Yet another excellent video.

Great project Keith. Taper fit is important and lapping is a proven method for getting maximum contact. I retired from the overhead crane industry and fits on taper bores for brake wheels needed to be >90%. If I remember right it was a GE publication that I found that in. Thanks for sharing.

Another interesting video. Thanks Keith.

Thanks Keith for a great video......lots of learning!!!

Good to see progress commencing on Jimmy's bandsaw. Thanks for the video.

An inspiration as always. Thanks Keith

Looking good Keith...your'e a man on a mission!

YEA!! Been waiting to see you get back here! I enjoy all of your videos, but wanted to see this band saw come to life. Take care, sir.

Great job Keith 👍👍

Looking good Keith 👍👍

Thanks Keith, good stuff as always!

At last a bandsaw update !!!!!

Quality content and presentation, which the norm for Keith.

I love the way you describe what you are doing and the expected outcome.

Looking good brother.

The bandsaw is back .. this is great!

Dead on balls accurate. It's an industry term. Keep up the good work and videos Keith.

Thanks Keith

Good video, Keith. I use med. Valve grinding compound for lapping.

Thanks for showing how to square up a workpiece in a 4 jaw chuck. As a non-machinest it was a nice refresher. Same with the details on the taper attachment, I always enjoy learning from your videos!

Great work. The groves are where the Diresta stenciling should be applied.

Thanks Keith for another great video, It good to know when good is good enough. Thanks for taking the time to make these video. A personal note you are doing well on you weight loss, it's hard I know am doing the same.

Nice job on the shaft. Should work well. You are looking good Keith and loosing weight.

Very nice, as a hobbyist I have yet to cut a critical taper. Watching your technique is a special opportunity.

If you set up the shaft between centers in the HBM you could powerlap the taper to the wheel hub.

Wow I was thinking about the saw . But now I’m excited to see what you going to do with it on the boring mill . But still another great video

Hi Keith. This is another Keith hear on the Isle of Wight in the U K. Thanks for such wonderful Video's, they are full of usefull info. One thing, Have you lost a lot of weight. You look far better, hope all is O K.

Nice video. I suppose it would be quite "thrilling" to engage the cross-feed mechanism while the taper attachment is in place :)

Ok so I have been working for the last year and thought I would catch up with the build I have gone from episode 15 to this one... And there is definitely some changes around the shop! Gotta say Keith you are looking very trim. Looking forward to actually getting to this video. I have some catching up to do! A JD bandsaw play list would be great. Finally caught up! Really looking forward to the finished product!

Engineer would say keep lapping, experienced machinist knows it will be better than good enough. Thanks for the video.

next stop for the wheel Engels Coach Shop for some new wood...

I would use the new weld positioner to power lap it.

The rings inside the tapered bore are most likely put there on purpose as this allows the griping force between the two parts to increase due to the reduced surface area.

Someone has lost weight and looking well!

Lap that to perfection the parts might never come apart. The OE manufacturer had a good idea how those tapers should fit.

The light rings might be oil rings that a light layer can keep the two metals from atomic merging in rust or atoms.

Great video. I presume you checked for taper as you turned the 1 15/16" diameter?

Wow you lost a lot of weight! Hope you doing well!

Keith, great video Thanks for sharing your knowledge! May I ask where do you source the TimeSaver lapping compound? Thanks

Well done. Thanks for explaining why building up the old axle likely wouldn't work. Time 10:00. Centrering in the 4 jaw. Using the indicator moving half the top nto top value and not using trial and error looks great, being a novice in the game. About the taper attachement. How do You disconnect the ordinary screw control? Just thinking how that can be done on the mini lathe... No such magic screw here.... Time 18:50.... Some kind of technic used for centrering in the 4 jaw ought to work? Thanks for an interesting and inspiring video.

You are looking better!

I've been wondering about this and the stoker engine

One step closer to restoration complete. Do you have an estimated completion date? This is going to be one beast of a bandsaw. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂

I wonderd where the bandsaw project went!

Keith, next time spray some WD-40 or just "anything like that" (diesel fuel or such) onto the rust, that'll keep this rust-dust down. Costs nothing, will help you to keep your workplace bit cleaner.

have io missed some thing here you are looking quite trim kieth

Outstanding job Keith. I think that taper is great. Really nice overall job. What type of material was the new shaft material? Thanks for sharing. Take care, Ed.

👍⭐

It’s way too early over here in Idaho 🤷‍♂️

I would like to see the stoker engine project again when do you think it will get back in the line up

liked for algorithm

I'm convinced Keith could eat an elephant if he needed to.

Disculpe vi su película y me gustaría que agregara más episodios y yo soy un niño y mr gustaría salir en su serie Tengo 8 años vivo en México

I believe the bore was reamed, not turned on the lathe. Rings are probably tool marks...Never went back in with a "Finishing reamer"

I see those same rings at 27:07. Are you sure it's the hub? Not that it matters. The fit looks just fine. Maybe the next guy gets it out more easily in about another century.

I am a bit curious why the worn shaft area could not have been trued up, and the new bearings adjusted accordingly and reused the shaft.

I suppose it doesn't make any difference but I wondered why you changed to turning the shaft between centers and cutting the taper at the headstock end instead of cutting it at the tailstock end with the shaft gripped in the 4 jaw chuck. Was it easier to change from the original shaft to the new shaft using the centers?

Maybe you could ask Engels Coach Shop to make a new rim for the wheel!

Been looking forward to this for a while. Wouldn't the 2" stock fit down the spindle? It would have improved rigidity.

Keith, you look in good shape! Have you lost some weight?

Why not use one of your lathes with a 2" thru hole and get rid of the steady???

Can you cut the taper from the small end toward the big end. ?

Man lapping that by hand looked hard and time consuming. Would it be easier to have the axle clamped to something standing vertical and then just spin the wheel on top with great easy leverage and let gravity do the work? Or would it just jam up and you gotta take a trip to the hydraulic press lol.

Question. why not measure the difference from the high end of the taper to the low end. then use a dial indicator to measure the same distance from the center pivot and adjust that amount? I've always asked this question to myself when I see machinist use taper attachments.

It appeared to me that the old shaft was a more accurate fit and while that is an indication that the new shaft wasn’t quite there yet, both shafts didn’t seem to have an accurate taper. You should start by cleaning all the old grease out of the female taper and get a good even register with the blueing so you don’t have to guess whether it’s grease pushing the blueing or if the grease is wiping off the blue.

the reason for the rings are it brakes the contact so when you try to remove the wheel it is an interference and not a full contact

cant you zero an indicator on one end of the taper, run the carriage to the far end, and then move the taper till it zeros?

How many drills could a drill chuck if a drill chuck could chuck drills

I think that weird pattern shows how they possibly made the shaft and hub, step cutting the taper because they didn't have a better way to cut a taper, then just even it out by hand....or.... they did have a way to cut a taper and the cutter had a chip out of it so minor no one noticed. Why ever the pattern is there? Its clear as day at 36:16, almost like you cut that pattern on the new shaft.

I bet a flame spray weld would've fixed that original right up. This and that other shaft you welded recently would've been an awesome time to collaborate with Abom

Interesting concept. However, when you use lapping compound, you are basically trying to fix the areas that are not touching properly. So wouldn't you only apply the lapping compound to the already touching areas and not the entire taper? IDK but that would cut the areas touching allowing the untouching areas get close to the bore... Just my thinking...

As a Navy MR Timesaver and Clover was a big staple on board Tenders

I hope I can be forgiven for noticing something personal, a very good thing, about Keith: I think he has lost weight. Weight is dangerous, more than is commonly known. I hope it's true. He is a good guy. And tapers are fun. Cheers.