Waa thinking thw same

I think that you're referring to his speech seeming a little slurred. While this is a potential symptom of alcohol use, many people with congenital hearing problems develop very similar speech issues. Similarly, stroke can affect the speech centers leaving people with slight speech problems even after therapy. The rest of his movements and body control are not consistent with alcohol use sufficient to cause slurring, so I am 99.9% sure that the guy hasn't been drinking.

My apologies if it's a medical issue vs drinking.

the wall would already be fastened to the floor system using nails, anchors, screws, wall sheathing overlapping from the outside onto the rim joist, etc. any amount of glue or adhesive applied at the joint area will be negligible in adding to the strength of the framing assembly. When you spray foam the whole wall, it does at strength to the whole wall system because it makes the wall assembly more rigid.

No, there's no strength factor in that. But I would add one more benefit: if you ever suffer bedbugs, having the base of drywall 100% sealed eliminates one more [brain frying] place they can hide in the daytime. A gap the thickness of a business card might as well be a superhighway for those bastards.

@@flinch622 good point!

For electrical box & wire penetrations, I like using 3M firestop - it swells if it gets hot [chemists use the term "intumescent"]. Having faught mice in the past, I will seal all stud holes - vertical or horizontal, if/when a wall is open. For sill plates at window openings [and associated frames], best advice I know is low expansion rate foam - you do not want the window frame getting bowed in by high expansion rate. There's lots to choose from, and often marketed as "window and door". Try Great Stuff, etc Some of the concerns of IECC simply go away... if you solve a buildings negative ventilation problem. New fireboxes for example, may demand a dedicated fresh air feed. After that, kitchen exhaust hoods can be a problem. The commercial end has recognized that way back: a place like KFC would get built with a supply fan and duct to compensate for their exhaust hoods.

The best caulking to seal up the sill plates, top plates and the joints between doubled up studs is an elastomeric polyurethane sealant such as "Tremco Dymonic 100" or "Masterseal NP-1". Both come in 10oz standard cartridges and 20oz sausage packs. They both are rated to adhere to concrete, wood, metal, vinyl, etc and can be used to caulk the nail fins on vinyl windows as well.

From a Matt Risinger video, they stick built a new 3500 sq ft home and used 36 sausage tubes of caulk.

If you build a very air-tight house, you must pay detailed homage to the gods of air-exchange lest you anger the must and mildew devils. Having an air-tight home is really great if you live in an area with potentially problematic air quality due to forest fires or industrial pollution or pollen, but there's a lot that goes into making sure each room in the house has sufficient air (and moisture) ingress and egress. It's a lot easier to build a slightly leaky and slightly less efficient home but your HVAC bills are a bit higher.

Condensation happens when warm moist air moves through a wall and condenses on colder surfaces. So if the spaces are air-tight, then moisture containing air isn't moving through them.

@@approots what if the plastic, foam or drywall that is airtight is itself - cold, why won't moisture form on it then

@@Hello-zf5lq But what moisture? Where would the moisture come from in a sealed space? Condensation happens when warm moist air moves to a cold surface. Leaks are necessary for this to happen in insulated walls.

If there is no insulation between the warm air and cold surface (windows), then yes, there could be condensation.

I had no idea what an air barrier would do with that explanation. I hope I pass and get to move to grade 3!

I'm telling mom!

what wasnt good enough?