Having been a scale replicator in wood, I can fully appreciate your expertise in handling metal pieces. You are a master!

That's indeed a very creative solution. And you're right. The repair is better than the original.

Your solution to the problem with the boss worked beautifully. Thanks Joe.

Thanks for another great video. God should have had someone like you around when he was designing human beings ❤

Nice attention to detail as usual but it's what we expect from you Joe. Thanks for sharing. J

Nice to watch somebody, who knows how to do things. Great tricks.

Wow better than the original cast boss.. The brass nut insert looks awesome !

I think you always make them better when you build them. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.

Graet repair can't tell it wasn't original thanks for sharing

Almost all of my repairs are better than the original. However, I have also created chain-reaction breakages from overbuilding the replacement parts.

Do you want a 74 year old apprentice, another great video.

OK Joe, my hat is now getting vertically challanged and I conceed that your solution justifies more self pride than welding a blob onto the casting and milling it back to be dimensionally true. I am inspired as usual.

Lots of experience is obvious all the mistakes of the past opens the eyes to make the job better and quicker

Nice video Joe, as always. Over here in the UK, I used to work in an electrical engineering company. The material that you used for the lathe jig, was known to us as 'Tufnol', which was actually a trade name for SRBF (Synthetic Resin Bonded Fibre). We used to us a cheaper cousin of this material - SRBP (Synthetic Resin Bonded Paper) that we incorrectly called 'bakelite'. Useless fact of the day: Ford in the UK and Germany, used an SRBF gear in the valve timing set in V6 engines. This was done to reduce noise. Apparently, if you replace the gear with a steel one, the engine will whine like a Karen...

I'm a bit surprised you didn't drill that out before screwing it in to avoid the hole in the base, given it was possible once it was a separate part.

Joe, You Are The Man......thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, Paul in Central Florida

I ask myself "what would Joe Pie do ?" all the time .

Hey Joe, would love a short video about why you finished that pocket conventional on one side but climb milling on the other. Good stuff. Thanks!

What surprised me is that Joe didn't make the head of the bushing a "tombstone" shape to match the lug with an 'anti-rotation' flat. It only would have taken another day of set-up and machining to blend into the lug profile. 😁

Man it seems like there is a lot more porosity to that surface than there was when you initially milled it! I kept thinking it was dirt. That was certainly an elegant solution to the misalignment of the lead screw. 👍👍

Beautiful work - and a very effective and elegant solution to the boss. Definitely better than the original. Goes without saying (but I'll say it anyway) as to the genius of the support tool for threading / parting. I made one using small bearings but it really doesn't work very well - a simpler guide like yours supports better.

Extra work yes - but, for sure this is definitely way more sophisticated now and super job on the knee leadscrew - great result Joe. :)

I have a 18 inch shaper in my shop.. the table lift screw sticks out the bottom of the machine almost a foot when all the way down. So I had to drill and sleeve the floor so it had room to go down.

You are amazing my friend!

I’m so proud of you, uncle Pie! I remember when you were just a little boy, asking me everything about machining, now look at you being a big KZfaq sensation!!! 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 It doesn’t hurt to wish! Excellent video and, as always, with real world explanation on why do you do things the way you do! Thank you very much for sharing your vast knowledge with us poor mortals!

i love it when a plan comes together... cheers ben.

Beautiful! Work of art.

100% better than the plans.

Always a joy to watch your work, with or without unloosening something :-)

Once again , proof that anything can be repaired or reengineered. Well done Joe!

Well done Joe, or should I say, "the master of expedient modification".

Great fix,Joe.Thank you.

Another fantastic tutorial from the master. Thanks from Australia

Beautifully solved! Great idea with the sand blasting, too!

Always enjoy your work arounds. Thanks for your time and skills!

Nice work around.😎

"Doing what you can, with what you got." Great looking solution to that issue! 👍

Thanks Joe

As always a great lesson in fixturing and shop pra😊ctice. Thanks much Joe.

Very nice.

Fantastic stuff as usual, thanks for your efforts.

Love your attention to detail and the extra mile you take to improve look and functionality of these models. I hope the guys from PM Research are paying attention and giving some form of compensation in return for the improvement ideas! Great work!

I love it. That Micarta follow rest is perfect for preventing deflection.

Joe, I'm drinking a beer watching your video as always with pleasure. I see that you made a nice plug on your cnc, just as I would too and made a nice brass/bronze insert. I took a sip and then the bushing was gone. Is this the beer or back to the future I'm experiencing? A moment later; the bushing is back? What happened? Ghost in the shop? Thank you Joe. 25% Polak, so a beer comes with the upbringing 🙂 And why does the spindle protrude out? I think it's historical. A lot of the older machines dropped down below the deck so the concrete slab underneath was made to it. All the best Joe! How to learn machining? Check out Joe Pie's channel!

Hello Joe! 12:26 A lefthand thread? I missed the reason for this. As always great work and a superior solution for the kits imperfections. Cheers Ulf

Thanks again

Hi Joe, another enjoyable video. I've started a book, I've titled it "Joe's Jigs and Setup Tips" I try to add something with every video of yours that I watch! Learning while watching is a great thing, keep 'em coming! I'll keep watching!!

Good thinking nice fix excellent

looks much better than the origional part

B E A utiful work Joe. Thanks for the video. Regards from Wales

impressive, as usual. Cheers!

very good job Mr Joe Pie

Another great video from the master thank you Joe .

Wonderful! By far better than the original.

Luv that phenolic follow rest...have to make one...5*s

Thanks for the vid Joe , my big take-away is that phenolic support for the follow rest, brilliant, as most jobs are tiny like yours and simplicity is golden! Cheers!

Beautiful to watch!!!

My god Joe is there anything you can't do in a machine shop. Beautiful

You always amaze me,You the man!

That was cool.

👍 great idea making the new lug. I probably would have made it a press fit and had another mess.🙂

keep up the good work.

Great rescue. I didn't guess doing it like that. A similar part is needed for tensioning the chain in the chainsaw. It bottoms out too early.

Nice work and a great video.

straight out of the park!

That's what I figured you'd do, looks fantastic.

100% right the fix does look a lot better than the original ! Thanks for the lesson on how to turn an “Ah Sh$$ “to an “AWESOME “ 😉 !

Great channel

As always you are the best. Greetings from Algeria

Great recovery. 👍 25:53

Hi Joe, can you please go over the advantages and disadvantages of using a center drill vs a spot drill when starting a hole, either in the mill or lathe (or drill press)?

I can't wait to see how you go about scraping and flaking the dovetails...

Nice fix. That feature will draw attention.

Thanks Joe, I’ve got to single-point a 2.0mm ( 079” ) thread on a stainless part, BUT I’ll be making your adjustable steady fixture, first ! Kind regards, Steve A.

Did you happen to have a5-40 LH tap? or did you buy it for this job? I have know about fixtures and used them all my life. However....since I started watching you build these models I look at fixtures in a whole different light. You sir are the Fixture Guru! That follow rest is pure genius. Bravo Zulu!

Much more betterer now. Do the people at PM Research act on any issues you find with the drawings or the castings? Regards, Preso

Great Job! So, how will you get the lead screw for the knee to fit into the space alotted? Didn't quite catch why it could be shortened?

Awesome!

Just drill a hole in the baseboard to receive the screw, that way you get full table travel. That's my guess on the length.

Joe you really make that look easy, which I know it isn’t. Another beautiful job! Quick question, when you tapped that left hand thread in the brass bushing I noticed you didn’t use any tap fluid, oil, anchor lube, etc. Was that because it was so small or because it was brass?

Great way to repair! I can not tell how the knee screw thrust is retained but it looks like when lifting the knee the thrust load is applied to the gears causing it to “tap” at every tooth.

Would be one heck of a job if that mill had to be 1:87 scale. Judging by what you were creating the size would be in the 1:40 to 1: 50 region on scale more or less. Great videos on these models. For me its a must watch😅 at all times jus in case i need some tool or setup gem. Thank you an keep them coming. Be blessed and safe🙂

Hello Joe. What would we do without fixtures and jigs in our trade. Retired now and still every once in a while I still use them on a friends lathe and mill. I really like this one for threading I am going to make one for his Bday. Well my friend, You've done it again. Nicely I might add. See you next post eh.

I suppose the original machines allowed the lead screw to protrude through the base because,most machine shops had wood floors.No big deal to drill a hole through the floor 😂

Lots of bubbles in that casting.

Fantastic work. You mention that you use a blast cabinet, but what grit size do you use to blend the small parts?

Great work as always, but how did you create the accurate radii on the plug.? It feels like a very long setup in a rotary table just to allow ease of with the pocket..

It does seem that someone in the drawing office didn't do their homework on component relationships before signing the drawings off.

Put on 6” casters (scale) 😊

Interesting fix. I have seen a number of old full sized machines and this feature is generally not cast in the body but separate. I have also seen a hole in the base to accept the lead screw for clearance. Kudos on a great fix but also a fix making the model more realistic. Nice Job Loe.

I hate seeing that porosity in the casting as it looks like it had a bad case of Acne in it's youth, but the machining to this point is gorgeous, going to be a stunning little trophy in the end.

Joe, Always enjoy your videos, but is your shop located on a drag strip? Interesting audio.

The ~1890's B&S No. 6 Horizontal Mill in my garage has an excessively long screw as well, so your prints are likely period correct. Not sure why the designers intended for the screw to be so long though.

Did you get any feedback from the raw casting manufacturers to how the lower bracket was so far out of alignment? Nifty little fix Just as well you went to all the trouble of milling the tiny cupboard in the pedestal.

It's not often that a screw-up turns out successful. It did in this case. 👍

👍👍

Good ☹️🇬🇧

Are all the little marks on the piece inclusions or is it porosity. If so you think the manufacturer could do a better job casting the part. Nice job Joe!

I’m a relatively new hobby machinist and I’ve tried your method of threading away from the spindle and I quite like it. My question is why you chose to single point the thread on the lead-screw rather than use a die to cut it?

going to have a miniature Kurt mill vise video?