We have a 4430 and it always had the same problem. After spending 600 bucks on ALL new bearings and bushings to rebuild the front end it finally quit breaking bolts. We did that probly 6 years ago and havnt had a problem sence. Oh ya and the front end wasn't really wore that bad. GOOD LUCK!

Sweet video editing with the stack then fading to the tractor entering man. It was kinda like a scene from a movie.

We had the same problem with our 4020. Put new bolts in and put washers in, she was all set to go.

@a1986ford yes grade 10 is harder than grade 8 but because of the high carbon content they begin to get brittle at that grade which is why I believe that under the constant vibration and jarring that they are subject to, they would break easier... its all about application, and while a grade 10 bolt is stronger in terms of the rotational strength, they are actually weaker to impacting forces

Hey Waye the best thing I can think of to prevent that from happening again is running braces from the loader brackets back to the rear axels of the tractor. That would prevent any rearward movement caused by excessive pushing from breaking those bolts. I'm kinda suprised that a loader of that size doesnt have supports running back to the axels. I can see that being a common problem on 4x4 tractors.

@Kilhamjim yeah not quite sure about that frame mounted loader, even the little 2240 has supports all the way to the back axle, so I gotta agree with you, dont really know what they were thinking

@bbeckem I agree 100% like someone else commented earlier putting a loader on a tractor is a sure fire way to ruin it, i would really like to get a front end loader with a grapple someday

@ottard now theres a thought, i might have to try that one

That's why I don't like frame mounted loaders very much. Although it's old and slow, I really like our old 45 loader on the 720 Diesel. Downside is, it keeps your hands busy! only foot operated functions on that tractor are brakes and PTO. Clutch, throttle, hydraulics, and shifting gears and tripping the bucket are all done by hand.

Our 2140 has that problem from time to time but it's the front bolts that break. so about every month or so I check the tightness and we haven't broken one since I've been checking them and tighting them as required. But the strips of metal they bolt the loader frame on were starting to bend around the rear frame bolts so we just welded the loader frame to the metal strips. and we can still split the tractor if we have to

Wayne wife wants to know when you sleep? LOL I would stick with the same bolts. Their suppose to flex with the movement and weight. It keeps from breaking the loader and tractor. Have a good one !!!

@jsparks2k7 no... that car weighed far less than some of the bales we lift on a regular basis so it was actually fairly light duty work in the general scheme of things

Can't help with a permanent solution to the breaking bolts problem but I have a thought about the bolts backing out since the thread-locker isn't up to the task. Since there's two of them, could you put a small piece of round stock along the sides of the heads and tack weld them? Or maybe diagonally, or whatever fits. I think you're right about the higher grade bolts being more brittle and prone to breakage.

also you just remove 2 bolts& the battery boxes on the 2140 swing out and you can leave the batteries hooked up and get to all the bolts to take the frame off but it's very rare the loader comes off of the tractor.

@MooseBaker On a tractor, unlike a car or truck, you must literally separate the whole vehicle between the engine and the transmission to do major service work. The engine/transmission housings actually make up the "frame" of the tractor.

@84400 I feel for the both of you... that is a situation that I hate hate hate finding myself in

well we have a 4450 with a loader not shure on the number but to what i recall we have only had to replace the bolts once

@all4jarrett either or sometimes its one side sometimes its the other

@speedy75602 normally i would say that is a possibility and actually I guess I would still say it is but the bucket slop is a recent development and weve been having the frame bolt problems for much longer

@farmall51 I did the same thing on some small block chevy manifolds! ITs a drag. A oxyacetileen torch is your best bet that or drilling and retapping. Alt ho that really sucks because the easy out is hardened steel and is not going to want to drill

Would have thought a loader on a tractor that size would have had further surpporting brackets to the rear axle. if fact my 2650 had a Grays loader fitted and the whole bracket from rear axle to front block was all one piece, Don't know if you see what i mean, and don't know how you could strengthen it, Hey Wayne , sounds like you have the Big Man with you , so you will sort it, lol . Jim.

@farmall51 ugh there is absolutely nothing worse than a broken easy out in a broken bolt, ugh first I would swear... ALOT... then I would try welding a nut or bolt on the broken bolt so you perhaps have something to get ahold of but that depends on if you have any sticking out or whether or not it is broken flush, aside from that sometimes you can break the easy out, out with a sharp chisel or punch, other than that though, youll have to pick up a carbide tipped drill to attempt to drill it out

@montez341 also a good way not to get the cows fed LOL, in all seriousness though I would love to have a front end loader with a grapple

Man, I'm surprised that those bolts came out so easy. Definitely went a lot smoother than it could have.

i think it would be a good idea just to put a little spot weld on it.

What about welding a little piece of metal between the two bolt heads. That will keep them from unscrewing, and it's easy to grind off if you need them out.

@BlueBirdTC2000RE we lost first and second gear not too long ago so I have to get that fixed

is there enough room to drill some more holes and add 2 more bolt in front of those 2, 4 bolt will hold alot more but its alot of work to drill that ticks plates i know but will last longer

It looked like that loader mount is still moving a little bit when you lift and lower the loader.

@a1986ford well it does have grade 8s in it but im afraid if I went to a grade 10 they would be too brittle and break easier

Nice editing man! I like how at the beginning the exhaust just kind of fades away and then the tractor pulls into your shop Neat stuff!

Wayne, I'm a fairly new subscriber to your channel, found it by accident, now a permanent subscriber, love the video,s, but the mechanic side of me wants to know how many engine cylinders does the 4230 have?

Well Wayne; as they sometimes say; it looks as if u got yer "work cut out" for ya....and "busy as a bee"! as well!...but hey its all good!; ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

is it possible to move your battery box out a few inches?Then you could periodically(weekly maybe)re torque those bolts and prevent them from snapping or coming out.Not the best solution but it would work.

get some left handed drill bits. every now and then they just screw right out.

if the back ones are broken the front ones are most likely not in good shape eather. the problem is that they are loosening up and breaking it happened to me to all i did was use the blue locktite. you also really need to look at the front bolts if they are loos than they will be next.

i know someone who did it on a 30 series tractor, think he was over loaded and whent over a pot hole and bugerd it

@lnmrak thats what I got in there

i like stack shot when starting need more of them. are you getting a new flapper for the 2240 saw it was gone in a lot of vids

I've always heard a good way to wreck a tractor is to put a loader on it.

Hey wayne Ive got a manifold bolt broke off in a Farmall super C and I used an easy out and broke the easy out off too. what would you do . and have you ever had the same problem. Matt Raleigh N.C

we had the same problom so we put in bigger bolts and with heavy duty locktight why dont you try that and let me know so far on the 4430 jd the bolts haveint broke yet

before installing the new bolts, drill a small hole in each bolt head, with the axis of the hole perpendicular to the axis of the bolt. install the bolts, and then run a single pin or wire through each bolt so they will be unable to turn.

I noticed some slop in the hydraulic cylinder when you worked the bucket after the repair. Do you supose the slop might be putting extra torque on bolts causing them to fail

I'd want a to drill it out and use a bolt with like a 3/4 inch body and 1 inch head or so. Maybe drill it out and use a bushing with it. I know you probally don't wanna hear that let alone do it. lol.

I had that problem with a tractor of ours , I just took it apart there and with I put them back in I used the blue lock tight and then took and tightined them really tight tight as I could and then just never had any problems

@wagner59270 Dont they make grade 10 bolt that would fit in that? Would stop them from braking but not wiggling out.

@86f150l no they bolt into a threaded hole in the bellhousing so cant get a nut on the other side, otherwise that would be a great idea

Have you tried to use grade 10 before, Just thought it my be an idea to try since you haven't used them and these grade 8 bolts will eventually break again.

put grade 8 bolts in the frame

@wagner59270 Is it just one side of the tractor the bolts come out of or both?

@86f150l to be honest Im not entirely sure, I think mostly just a bad design, there is not support towards the rear axle like on the 2240 which forces all the weight to ride on the frame brackets

You think it might have somthin to do with lifting a car that time a while back?

lol put super glue around the bolts n screw em in.

What;s it mean to split the tractor?

the tractor we have on out farm has the exact same issue after talking too some people found out the loader was not made to move the weight we were moving all the time

Did you come across a solution? We fought the same thing and the solution in my mind was clear! If the bolts keep breaking then maybe that's not the problem, maybe it's a symptom! So we took a real close look at how the machine was used and the loads involved. To our surprise we found the lateral(left/right) forces were quite extreme! so we trussed the frame of the loader it's self and been fine since. Weld some angle stock to form triangles so it won't rack.

Check out our 4230 Devin Jasper

@wagner59270 oh i do the things that happen on a farm are amazing.i like your videos we do alot of the same things. i dont have an off the farm job like you tho.

@dirtriderkx500 sleep is for the dead LOL

We had the bolts lossen up on us but never break.

On the John Deere 4230 those are not the original tires that came from the factory

@farmall51 Hey i live in Cary I got a 140.

@onelonleyfarmer yeah I know I gotta get it back in the shop, was kinda in a hurry that day... you aughta know how it goes LOL

@mminges 6 CYLINDER 404 CID

Maybe its time to take it into a dealer and have them fix it?