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When I can only take two lenses, I usually take a 35mm and an 85mm. I prefer the 85 over the 50 for headshots, and having a 35 gives me an easier time when I want to include some of the environment with the subject. 35mm has been a street photography classic, because it's wide enough to put your subject into the context of its surroundings, without losing it in the background. Recently was shooting in a museum, and my 35mm f/1.4's FOV made it easier to shoot larger works without having to stand halfway across the gallery, and the f/1.4 made it easier to deal with crappy museum lighting.

I use a zoom nikon 24-70mm and a 70-200mm, both at f2.8. This can do almost everything. Perfect for the job. Group photo and events. I try sometimes to stay on a fix value and move myself more. As you say, a great way to improv your skill.

I use Sony 35mm f1.4 and Sony 135mm f/1.8. These lenses cover 99% of my tasks.

I photograph everything and my RX10IV with 24-600mm range is simply awesome.

I've noted that most of your shots involve posed situations. ie you have time to get things right. Not so for travel and 'grab' shots. I've found zooms better for that. Your argument against zoom lens are also spurious. 1. F1.4 to get Bokeh. Bokeh also increases with focal length. There are plenty of video presentations with sample photos showing how bokeh depends on f-stop, sensor size and lens focal length. Some show matching photos using different lenses and settings. ie F1.4 is not the only way to get bokeh. Also many lenses are at their worst fully open. Most are best a couple of stops or more closed down. Funnily some of the the newest zooms can be best at just one down! Finally the need for a f1.4 lens for focusing is becoming mute with mirrorless bodies and highly improved auto-focus systems. 2. F1.4 for low light. Noise at high ISO has greatly improved. Using an F1.4 setting with ISO 100 v say F5.6 with higher ISO? The sharpness you lost at fully open F1.4 v higher iso becomes debatable. 3. Primes are sharper. By definition this is correct. But the practical reality is changing. Just look at samples and reviews from Canon's R24-240 and R100-400. Canon cameras are also programmed to correct distortion etc in the camera. So the difference is slowly narrowing and disappearing. Also if you have to crop your prime lens image, you may lose a lot of pixels. Loss of image quality. Not so with a zoom. You can fill your screen and reduce post cropping to a minimum / little no loss of pixels. You can even take a set of images very quickly at different focal lengths and decide later. 4. Primes are inexpensive and lightweight in comparison. Hmm . . ten years ago that was contestable. Now it's just no longer true. Quality f1.4 primes costs way more. Say $USD1,000-2,000. The two Canon R series zooms above. Under $USD800 each. Tamron and Sigma? Similar story. Now the weight: Those cannon zooms are 745 grams and 635 grams. An F1.4 50mm - say 250grams. But here's the rub. The 24-240 can be permanently fixed to the camera. No extra weight for extra lenses! The couple of hundred gram differences becomes mute. That's the same as having had a big lunch OR having bought a heavy camera body. Go to a new mirrorless and you'll will save a few hundred grams on the body weight AND the lens. With identical specs, a mirrorless can be made much lighter. 5. Prime lenses encourage you to move around etc. That's great if you are shooting subject matter with the time available. No so with lots of subject matter. It's the quick or missed. Regardless you can still (and should) move around with a zoom when you can for the very same reasons. But the zoom has an added benefit - you can try different zoom settings in seconds. You can take multiple shots at different zoom settings rather than having to crop and lose pixels. Also you can zoom in for a focus and light setting on the important part and then zoom out with that setting held! In seconds! 6. Primes make you a more creative photographer. Simple rubbish. Just look at some great creative photos taken with phone cameras. There's far more to being creative than equipment. Far more. Just look at major movies. These days pretty much done on zoom lenses. 7. Second lens an 85mm. Great lens. I can do 24-240 all in one HIGH QUALITY lens at a LOW price. The game has changed. You've also cut yourself out of any photos which would be best done at 100mm or more. 8. Sharpness. Too sharp can make photos very clinical and lose all feeling. Hence the use of soft focus filters and soft focus editing! 9. FF v APS-C. How about a FF 24-240 zoom which works with both? It used to be an expensive option. No so anymore with mirrorless. 10. 24-70mm zoom Excellent lens. If you are happy with max 70mm. 11. For those who post online. All that cutting edge perfection just gets lost. Pixels disappear on posting (max size etc) and screen pixel count can reduce it further. I've used primes and zooms for decades. My choices have been based on what I shoot and not on the technical perfectness of either. Not once has someone looked at my shots and said, "Oh, that was shot with a prime. Good choice." or "That was taken with a zoom. Why?" Not once. I did comparison shots between my then 10 year old Tamron zoom and a cheap Canon 50mm prime. The Tamron set at 50mm won. People look at a photo and either liked it or not no matter what lens I used. The average person can't tell technical differences. They choose what they like - not what was used to shoot it. They like / love shots taken on a range of equipment. There is far more to a great shot than presumed pixel peeping technical perfection. There is far more to it than FF v APS-C. There is far more to it than the MP of the sensor. You can have great equipment and bad shots. You can have basic equipment (eg phone) and get excellent shots. You can STILL get excellent shots with an old Kodak box film camera (if you respect its limitations.) So please, don't tell me primes are always better than zooms. That's never been an absolute truth. Same for same a prime should be technically better than a zoom. But a good zoom will always be better than a cheap prime. On price, a single high quality zoom will be cheaper than a set of primes. The technical quality difference is the only difference and that's shrinking. All the other factors will decide which is best in a given situation. Now what you have chosen may suit you. That's great. If that applied to everyone, then why are there so many different primes and zooms in the marketplace? If people didn't buy them and didn't like them, they just would not be made. Years ago purist argued than manual shift cars were better than auto shifts. How's that argument looking today? It now only holds true in a limited number of situations. For the majority, auto is now better. And electric cars don't even have gear shifts! The electric cars can beat any comparable fuel car on performance. In fact the fastest drag car is an electric one. The only difference is price. For high usage, hybrids and electrics pay for themselves. Just ask a taxi owner. Just look at what they are buying. It's a horses for courses situation. The old simplistic chestnut arguments from 30 years ago were debatable back then. Now they simply no longer apply to so many situations.

Please, stop the flashes between your wonderful images. They get people irritaded and make them stop watching ...

When I started photography for real i had no idea what kind of photoshoots i'll be in. I took a 24-70 gm II just to cover most common focal lenght and yeahh hell of a piece of equipment. But after year I see that for my needs f2.8 is not enough and I'm opting for 2 primes - 35 mm 1.4 and 105 1.4 from sigma. I think this can covers 95% of my shoots. Thanks for a good and informative video!

My current favorite is the Tamron 18-400mm for travel, wildlife, and general photography. I can use it on my Nikon D7500 and Z7 II with the FTZ adapter. That would be my only lens, but I took a 2nd lens, it would be the Tamorn 10-24mm for landscapes and architectural photos. I am an amateur. If I were a pro, I'd invest in better glass. I'm not too concerned with bokeh or low light performance since most of my shots are during daytime and I have a steady hand.

For what I shoot, the Canon RF 24-105 f/2.8 L IS Z lens, an RF 100-500 L IS lens and an RF 1.4x extender are the only lenses I need. It covers from 24mm to 700mm. Mounting one lens on two camera bodies and I an set!

Bro your videos are so good and your photography is top shelf, I see some comments trying to challenge what your teaching never mind them, lots of us are here to learn and have no issues whatsoever

24-70mm 2.8 and 85mm 1.4 this 2 lens need ❤

I shoot Fuji and my 2 main lenses are the 23mm F1.4 WR and the older but incredibly good 35 F1.4. It is small, wide aperture and has amazing character.

Totally agree 50 and 85 are my favorites with portraits

Mirroless 20mm f/1.8, 35mm f/1.8, and 85mm f/1.8 are the best and perfect range for me. These 3 are much lighter, faster than f/2.8 zoom len, more compact, and much cheaper than f/1.4. For comparison f/1.4 vs. f/1.8 is negligible. 😅

Ok the fact you took time and added descriptions to the slider.. good work! I only noticed when I went to rewind

I also use a 35mm for events when shooting large groups and for wide shots of room layouts, or to get wider perspectives of event activity like dancing, etc. I’m surprised you don’t include 35 mm lens.

Exactly what I've had in my bag since the turn of the century. Currently I´m using a Sigma L mount 24~70/2.8 and a Lumix 50/1.8.

After over 3 years of portraits, my two would be the Sigma 24-70 and Sigma 85 1.4. The being said, I also own the Sigma 35 1.4 & 2.0, 65 2.0 and 135 GM.

Great video, I shoot with a Nikon D750 and my 3 lenses are the 50mm F1.8, the 85mm F1.8 and for vacations i use the 24-120mm F4.

This is a well thought out video, and the examples used to support the points made are just excellent! Also, just an excellent production! Had to Subscribe.

I am starting with mirrorless world with A7C ii + 50mm 1.4 GM

As an APS-C user, I recommend the Viltrox-trinity with 13mm F1.4 (ultra wide angle astro/landscape), 27mm F1.2 Pro and 75mm F1.2 Pro and at the long end the Samyang 135mm F1.8. These lenses are incredibly sharp, affordable and excellent in low light conditions, where the APS-C sensor falls a f-stop behind full frame in terms of noise. Okay, I have a wonderful incredibly sharp zoom lens, the Sigma 60-600 DG DN OS, but it's only suitable for wildlife in bad weather when you don't want to change lenses at time-sensitive moments or in dusty conditions.

I'm shooting Canon Crop Sensor and my 2 primes are: 50mm f1.8 STM & 24mm f2.8

Started with the 50mm F1.8 for my Canon R6M2 and first got the 70-200mm f4.0 (budget reasons) Did most of my shooting with the 50mm. Got the 24-90mm F2.8 end of last year and it has become my go to lens (though I still frequently shoot at 50mm on it) as I love the versatility. But I highly agree: Using the 50mm Prime was a great starting lens to force myself to move and become more creative. Been thinking about either an 85mm or 135mm Prime or getting the 70-200mm F2.8 next, though now I am leaning more towards the Primes thanks to this video

love the concept but for me those two are too close together, I'd go 50mm and 105mm or 24mm and 85mm or 35mm idk anymore but one thing for sure I love the 50mm focal length thanks for the video :D

I have the 24mm 1.4 GM and 85mm 1.8 and I recently bought the 16-35 pz F4 with my new ZV-E1 which I’m using as « a no-compromise GoPro ». But I’m conscious that a 50mm GM is missing in my set. Not a priority at this time as I’m mainly shooting and filming outdoor where I need wider angles.

Yeap, those are my 2 fav focal length too since I'm doing portraits and weddings. But I cannot live without 35mm thought I don't really have any emotional attachement to it like I did with 50 and 85.

Good video just a little correction at min 8:00 . I think it is the other way around is more accurate . below is the reply from chatgpt : "Here's a list of typical lens focal lengths for APS-C cameras along with their equivalent focal lengths for full-frame cameras: 1. Ultra Wide Angle: Typically below 16mm (on APS-C) Equivalent to approximately 24mm or wider on full-frame 2. Wide Angle: 16mm to 24mm (on APS-C) Equivalent to approximately 24mm to 35mm on full-frame *3. Standard / Normal: Around 35mm to 40mm (on APS-C) Equivalent to approximately 50mm on full-frame 4. Short Telephoto: 50mm to 85mm (on APS-C) Equivalent to approximately 75mm to 135mm on full-frame 5. Medium Telephoto: 85mm to 200mm (on APS-C) Equivalent to approximately 135mm to 300mm on full-frame 6. Super Telephoto: Above 200mm (on APS-C) Equivalent to approximately 300mm or longer on full-frame These equivalencies help you understand how the field of view changes when using lenses on different sensor sizes." However, If you use 50mm(full frame lens) on a full frame camera and you ACTIVATED the cropped MODE, then it will be 75mm like you stated . Please don't get confused by the word "equivalent". By definition the meaning of equivalent would be equal in value, amount, function. Eg, APSC camera + 32mm apsc lens = full frame camera + 50mm full frame lens.

Awesome video. I've lately only forced myself to carry two primes, 85 1.2 and 35 1.4. Although I love the 50, it would be too close to the 85 for me, so i prefer the 35 for more environmental shots. If i had to just have one, it woild definitely be the 50!

I would recommend a 24mm instead of the 85mm prime as second lense, when you planing videos as well. The 85 is a nice have but not an essential. 24mm is an essential because some shots need you to be much closer.

Out of my collection . My all time travel lense is the Sony 24-105mm, my all time favourite portrait is the 135mm gm . (I recall going into a camera shop with my wife and the manager said to her "I see your getting a new handbag " haha.) Ps set the focus hold button to toggle aps-c mode for that extra reach. Used this function a lot especially when the lense was on my A7R3.

For wedding, I would suggest 2 cameras plus 3 primes: 135gm, 50gm & 24gm. The 85gm is not ideal in focusing.

Im agree for 85mm. I own sigma 85 DGDN. but for 50, I would substitute it with 35mm as sometimes I need to take a group of people which 50mm just doesnt cut it. My setup now is sigma 35mm & 85mm DGDN with sony 20mm 1.8G in the bag incase the group is too large that 35mm cant handle. these 3lens is enough for me now.

7:45 I'd argue it's also limiting especially at a wedding where you might need to swap lenses. It could hinder more than it helps.

In reality, 35mm and a 85mm thats all i really need. Walking into the camera store... thats when my wallet hates me.. everytime.

I need 3 lenses 1. 50mm F1.4 for prime 2. 24-70mm f2.8 zoom 3. 70-200mm f2.8 zoom I handle for portrait photography, wedding photography, wildlife photography, sports photography, street photography

Are your lenses compatible for Sony ZV E-10? Kindly suggest one prime and one telephoto lenses for my ZV E-10. Thanks 🙏

If I was to go with only two lenses for Sony E-mount... Carl Zeiss Loxia t* 2.8/21 Tamron 2-2.8/35-150 Di III VXD

Your photo editing skill seems to be top notch. Can you please make a video on photo editing?

It all comes down to what you are shooting. 50 and 85 for weddings is a bit to tight in most cases, the 35 85 combo si a bit better or 24 50

I had a 105mm Mico Nikkor f2.8 adapter for a Leica M3 that I used in jazz clubs in Chicago, pushing Tri-X slightly in the tank and printing 16x20s by still development that were absolutely gallery quality _ then taking that same lense on Nikon f4s on tour with the Ohio Players much later (Bicentinenial Tour 1976) exclusively with Ektachrome with complete access to the band 24 hours - all lights - all places… 2 bodies, 3 lenses (that 105 Micro - 50mm f1.4 - 35mm f1.4) and most of the time the 50 stayed in the bag.

Great video... Amazing explanation of why... Thank you for sharing.

absolutely useful tips! brillant!

35mm and 85mm

Great video. Love my 35 when i shoot street. And have it on most of time. But I use my 50 or 85 for portraits when i want compression. 24-70 is a good upgrade for beginners that are used to their zoom kit lens 18-55 but its alot heavier than the primes. If im outdoors and have a alot of space to work with then ill use my 135 when i can.

The Sony GMII's lenses are so good, one cannot tell the difference in its rendering versus primes. I own the 50mm f1.2. Love, love the lens, but for 99% of what I do, it's tough not to leave the 24-70 GMII on my A1. The 70-200 GMII is truly in a leage of its own. I. have the 105 f1.8 and prefer the 70-200 GMII rendering for portrait and a host of other applications. The 70-200 GMII is stunning, saying the least. Don't sell those GMII's short!

If you can write/produce a photography book, i will definately buy it.

Very good explanations with examples. Well done!

Hi, nice video! I’m a beginner photographer and got myself a Canon RF 50mm F1.8 STM lens and an RF -S 18-45mm F4.5-6.3 IS STM lens.

6:00 I think you should show the raws of these photos instead of the touched-up and edited photos. It gives a false illusion of what the lenses will produce.

Hey man love your work, you've got a new subscriber! Just wondering what Sony bodies you use? I just got hold of my first Sony (jumping off Nikon) and it's an A7RV, I hear that I really need top-shelf glass and wanting to know if these lenses you feature above are good enough?

Sigma 85 F1.4 !!!! Portraits 😊

Great video thank you! I just purchased a Nikon zf would you recommend an 85mm Nikkor lens? I am using a Nikon 40mm. Thx.

My 70-200 mm and 24-70mm lenses are my “go to” lenses, but I do love my 85 mm for portraits.

The way I enjoy your videos ❤❤

35 and 85 is all i need... With 35 you can take group photos and environmental portraits and with 85 you can get that tight portrairs... With blurred background

I like the 50mm and 90mm primes. To save money I decided that F 1.8 to F 2.8 is enough.

Great choices I prefer Sigma 105 1.4 over the 85 G Master

Old guy here with decades behind me, going back to film days before we had a ton of choices in camera brands, let alone lens options. To a point you are pretty much on target but only if you limit yourself to certain styles of photography. If you are a wildlife, action, sports, etc photographer these lens are useless. Your lens selection greatly depends on, one subject matter, two what camera are you using, micro 4/3rd’s, APSC, full frame, medium format, mirrorless, etc, etc. Stating these are the only two lens you will ever need in your bag is fine for your needs but not for everyone.

That 85mm Tamron on 9:35 is not manufactured anymore. Also, it was never available for E-mount, only A-mount. I doubt this lens is a good example.

I have 24 1.4,50 1.8,70-200 2.8 and the 135 stf . I prefer the 50 1.2 .

35-150f2-2.8 tamron for me only 1 len but I keep 85 f1.4 for special shot and low light

Your video is excellent. It provides very helpful information for someone who is starting out. Thank you for including images for reference.

Thanks for the video. I have three inexpensive primes for my Nikon Z5 by Viltrox I like a lot: 20mm 40mm 85mm I have Nikon zoom lenses but don’t use them much because they are too heavy for my arthritis. Looking at the Vil 50mm to fill that out, can’t see a need for their 16mm. Regards

As for "human eye", I heard it's not 50mm is human vision, but a distance to object about 5m/15ft, and focus length is more about the required angle of view

i use the 16-35 f/2.8 L and 85mm f/1.8 on a aps-c and it covers 95% on my work

35 and 85 and it’s all good. Can’t argue with the results. Still have zooms but use them less and less

How you edit your photos? I really like the colours and sharpness.

your pairing lacks wide angle capabilities and long reach. While a nice set (not the best I think) for portraits, I strongly disagree this is the best setup "across multiple genres" as you state in the description.

For wedding, it is often too tight for 50mm if shoot for group photos of 15 to 20.

Title is misleading. The choice is only from the viewpoint of a primarily portrait photographer. Even then, many would select a 35 1.4 instead of the 50 as a more versatile combination.

8:25?😂 I feel validated as I own an APS-C camera and a 35 mm and a 50 mm lenses

In my case I will use the RF135 F1.8 for portrait only and prefer that lens over the 85mm. 50mm is not for me, I never used that focal length

These lenses are for full frame body?

I shoot mainly events. And by events I don't mean weddings. Among the most common events I shoot are dog agility and rally obedience, and (human) dance. I have an 85 1.4 but it doesn't get much use at these events. I'm more likely to use a 24-70 2.8 or a 70-200 2.8. There are lots of kinds of photography. Not everyone shoots a lot of portraits and landscapes. I can't remember the last time I used a 50 1.4.

Dude, Fantastic video and explanation.

I use viltrox 75mm f1.2 lens for my sony a6400… best in image quality

Very good overview. Thanks a lot

An absolute treat to watch. Fantastic video.

Your editing is on point.. I love it

Thank you for your awesome review the best two lenses.

These lenses are mainly for portraits period.

If you do wildlife at all you'll want focal length. For most of what he looks such as wedding, I like 135 MM.

50mm Is it good for shooting video?

For my taste and use, I have a Canon EOS 5D MkII and a 28-135 USM IS Zoom lens, together with a Slik U-212 Tripod when needed, and that's it.

Intersting choice. Almost every pro I've talked to or read advice from on all the photography forums, don't pair 50mm and 85mm lenses. They usually pair 24mm and 50mm together. If it works for you, then it's the right choice.

I fully agree about prime lenses. But 50 mm and 85 mm are too close to each other. I personnaly use 3 lenses but not all together (I take with me either 2 lenses or only 1 versatile lens). For landscape : A wide angle needs to be sharp, no flare, nice sunstar, no subject separation needed. Tamron 24 mm F/2.8 is the perfect budget lens. Sony 20 mm F/1.8 G is needed only if focus on astrophotography (wider aperture) or architecture (wider angle and less distorsion). For portrait : A king's bokeh is needed for professionnal looking photos. Samyang 85 mm F/1.4 AF version 1 aspherical is amazing, very close to the Sony GM for a third of the price. For general purpose each time I take only one litle lens with me : Samyang 45 mm F/1.8 is incredibly light and versatile, even closer to human eye focal than a 50 mm, great bokeh.

Sir.... Bird watching and Bird video recording better cameras Which is best and suitable lens also Sony zv e 10...a6000,6100,6400,6700,6600 Nikon z30 nikon z50

Canon RF 28 - 70mm -f2 & RF 85mm - f 1.2.

Are you talking about Full Frame or APS-C lens? I'm pretty happy with my Tamron 17-28mm and 28-75mm f/2.8 lens. There is a little bit of focus breathing but it's usable.

My two focal lengths are 105mm and 14mm for portraits

Great video! Mainly 50 and 85, and also some 28, all 1.8.

are these full-frame equivalent measurements?

на системе fujifilm мои два любимых объектива это viltrox 27mm 1.2 & 75mm 1.2 изображение превосходное оба великолепны иногда для разнообразия использую viltrox 13mm 1.4 так же он основной для видеосъёмки

Thanks... helpful.

What if I have budget constraint, therefore I want to choose between the 50 or 85, which one should I go with? Pls advise. TIA

Anyone who can suggest...is it good lens to shoot hiking videos as i have CANON D700.. ....????Tamron AF 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di ii LD Aspherical (IF) Macro- Nikon fit....

thanks for video . from bangladesh

35 / 85, or 35 / 55 / 85