A man needs the proper length pushrods.

Great explanation Joe! Pro tip... I keep a 5/16 ball bearing in the tool box for measuring those ball/cup pushrods. It removes the variables involved with different cup depths.🏁

Just, I think your videos are the best Mopar information since the days that Steve Dulcich wrote for magazines👍

The stuff not everyone thinks a lot about, but should. Great info Joe!

Fun stuff. No need to ever apologize, small stuff doesn't matter. It's the big stuff we learn from. Love the videos

Glad you showed the mechanical difference, because all that trigamathamatics hurts my head!!! Another great video, buddy.... You are hitting on things that no one ever does........ ;)

Great video Joe!

Thanks Joe! Another great video!

Thanks for the practical demonstration. I wouldn't have thought it would be that much of a difference.

Very nice knowledge to know. Great job Joe

Thanks Joe!

Nice comparison. Keep them rocking and rolling.

Good job Joe!

Why did you apologize! It's not like you were lying intentionally it was clearly a mistake and these goomba's busting your balls about it, need to go away! People will be scared to post stuff like this because of fear of the keyboard warrior's, I swear they probably have a reddit thread where they tell each other about how they, caught youtubers making mistakes 😂 Thank you for all your vids Joe! I'm a newbie to the mopar world, and I'm reviving a swinger drag car much like your cuda and your work has been very helpful and informative

Interesting, great video as always

Interesting stuff, back in the day I used an adjustable pushrod to determine the length from Mopar performance and the pushrods came as a kit where you ground your own to fit.

Well everyone knows more about this stuff than I do but I still watch lol. Joe making it make sense to me is quite the accomplishment. You should be proud of this video! Thanks for your way of presenting. It’s just cool!

Hydraulics need proper preload to much and the valve can be open at the wrong time... Not enough you'll lose effective lift the cam can give you...and noise...same goes for a solid when setting valve clearances .... This doesn't consider the geometry between the pushrod and the rockers which is a whole other ball game....great job Mr just mopar Joe!

Interesting! Just400Joe !!!

YEAH! 7:40 Thats exactly what was in my head when I was commenting on the last video! Thanks for that. I'm glad I wasn't imagining things. The only deviation was swapping to a different pushrod. Like if you had unlimited lift adjustment threads on the rocker that geometry would show its face more obviously. Now you are getting into that territory of when lift stalls out mid-lobe because that pushrod angle has to compensate for that distance relationship until it straightens out again and finishes the lift at top-lobe. There has to be a book on it or something. Regardless my dude, good shiz as always and thanks for the lessons!

Cool stuff

I agree, solid rockers on hydraulic rollers is a great, easy to use setup! Nice parts in your engine here..😊

I was told that the minimum to thread on the adjuster was to make sure there was room for the oil to get into the cup on the pushrod. I have seen those that got burned up on that end because of that problem. On my big block I got pushrods that had oiling holes all the way through,so i would get oil from both directions.

Thanks for making these videos. Your approach to the point is a breath of fresh air! Appreciate ya! I've learned a lot from you. My HS rockers were right at 1 thread lashed that's 50 thousand per turn as per mine. My pushrods came out at 8 inches if I remember correctly on the 452. Zero decked with TF 240s. I may have missed the OAL of the 2 pushrods you have there? I got mime from Smith Brothers in Redmond Oregon. I'll re-watch this video I may have missed it. Thank you again you save me some heart and wallet ache!

Good stuff 👍👍😊

💯percent true the longer push rod makes a huge difference did it here in 🇦🇺years ago on a MOPAR motor with my brother in law . Made a better motor out of it an would bet my mates E38 Charger which are quick . This was in a VG 1970 Valiant . Long story but after that motor got rebuilt she needed the longer push rods . That VG put many brand X to shame . 😀👍🏻💯🇦🇺⛽️.

On your last video you was setting a clearance on your valve lash. I thought that was odd for a Hyd lifter. Now I know your using solid lifters, and yes they work very well on hyd roller cams. I'm doing the same on my old engine. Due to engine heating I set that motor with .016 intake and .018 exhaust lash as per the engine builder. My lift is in the .740 range with 1.6 rockers. This is the engine in the video i posted the link too. I've had to change pushrod length once with a different head gasket thickness. Joe you know your stuff

The pushrod length on the Green Goblin is one of the concerns that my buddy Ken had. That's why he wanted me to get with a MOPAR GUY to make sure that they are right.

I'm not P C so it's all good Mopar Joe 😊 but I fully understood your previous video.

Great video Joe. The designers of the rocker arms all the way back used 1 to 3 threads with 1.5 threads being the mean. I try to pick an average on most engines. For Street, Hi performance and Drag Race. The higher the lift, the more critical it becomes. Rocker geometry can be challenging with shaft rockers, but not to big of a deal once you have a few different combo's under your belt. Nice job Joe. Like to see you checking this stuff. Take care, Ed.

This is neat stuff . I think Mr. Rick is right . A man needs the proper length pushrods

Thanks Joe. Most folks just don’t bother to share learning experiences with others. Now boys and girls, go back and study sin, cosin and tangent! 😂😂😂

If you started thinking (like me) a stud mount or hydraulic lifter won't be as affected by pushrod length and different types of rockers as much, think again! Joe I'd love to see you test advancing and retarding the cam at the track on the same day/conditions and see how it affects e/t. Thanks for the content!

Great information Mopar Joe. I have 1.5 Crower Rockers, maybe the 1.6 would have been a better choice 30 years ago. I have not run the engine as of yet (440). Lost interest I guess.

You're close, but not quite there... If you measure horizontally a line while it's horizontal, You will get the longest and most accurate reading of that line. However if you turn the line 45° and measure it horizontally again, you will see that the line is now half as long as it used to be, Even though along its axis It is still the same length. When working with levers, if the lever is 45°, 1° of rotation will have far less vertical travel then if the lever is completely horizontal and rotated one degree. Imagine the breaker bar on the snout of the crank of your engine. Put it 45° and rotate the engine 1° measure how far the tip of your breaker bar drops toward the ground. Now put that same breaker bar parallel to the ground, and rotate it one degree and measure the drop. You'll notice that while it's horizontal the drop toward the ground will be far greater than when it was 45°. Keeping this in mind, you want the rocker from the fulcrum to the valve to be as horizontal as possible through the entire stroke of the valve. 1° of rotation at the rocker tip will change far more drastically if the rocker to rocker shaft line is nearly 90° to the valve tip. So in layman's terms, the closer that the rocker shaft is 90° from mid-lift at the valve stem is where you want the rocker shaft to be. This ensures that the rocker does not go to excessively vertical at either fully open or fully closed position. Now the back side of the rocker is a different thing. Usually on rockers this is a fixed angle between the fulcrum and the ball socket for the push rod. However because you have adjustable rockers, this angle also changes with rocker adjustment. Earlier we said that one degree of rotation yields a very small vertical change The further away from perpendicular you get. Well, when you're talking about trying to rotate something, the further away from perpendicular you get on the drive side of the rocker requires very little movement to get very great amounts of rotation. It's kind of like the drive sprocket versus the driven sprocket thing. If the angle is far away from perpendicular and you're pushing on that with a pushrod the rocker will rotate far more than if the angle from the socket to the pivot is exactly perpendicular to the pushrod. So in this case, I would say that if you are trying to correct geometry of the valve train, the correct way would be to install a test spring. Get yourself a push rod that is adjustable. Install the push rod while adjusted to a reasonable length, install the rocker arm, take a measurement. Shorten the rocker arm by 50 to 100 thousandths, set lash and take another measurement. What you want to do here is to try and find the minimum amount of lift possible. Once that's found, you now have the push rod 50% of cam lift above perpendicular and 50% of cam lift below perpendicular. Lock your rocker down and don't touch it. Now, remove your rocker and shim the rocker up by 50 or 100 thousandths. Use your push rod to adjust valve lash, do not adjust lash using the rocker! Measure valve lift. What you want to do here is try and get the most amount of valve lift possible. Once you're able to find the shaft height at which you have the most amount of valve lift possible, you now have the rocker set so that half of valve lift is above perpendicular and half of the valve lift is below perpendicular. Repeat these steps one more time with the pushrod length adjustment using the rocker arm adjustment to take care of valve lash and obtain the least amount of valve lift. Ideally it should not have changed, however I'm sure it's possible that it could have ever so slightly. If it does change, go back and check the rocker shaft height one more time. You should now be dialed in. Pull the push rod, measure it, that's the pushrod you run and whatever shim is underneath your rocker pivot is what you need to run. Hope this makes some sense.

great vid, one question how come you set the valve clearance at .002 shouldn't it be more then that with solid lifters?

Question, i have stock rockers and stock pushrod length and stock cam with hydraulic lifters. In order for my engine to stop shaking so bad i had to put shims under the rocker shaft. No matter how much i think about im not sure if its the push rod length of the machine shop didnt sent my heads up right when they put harden seats in it. Thoughts?

Went threw same deal on 451 went with a 8.25 length of course 3/8

Good stuff brother… well done Now I’m going to go down a deep, dark rabbit hole of thinking through all of this geometry. Lol. You do realize you have just set yourself up for a whole bunch more annoying text messages, right? 😂😂

Joe why are you running solid lifters on a hyd cam ?

Them are sure nice Harland sharp rollers ther pretty pricey but nice

👍

Are you using 3/8" push rods?

If you go even shorter you will loose lift . Half way open isn't the middle of the pivot point. Cross Ram linkage works same way. If not carbs don't open all the way . Took me a while to figure it out . 😂

DONT use pushrod length to get lift, the ONLY function of pushrod length is the get the correct pattern on the VALVE TIP!!!.......got NOTHING to do with lift, has EVERYTHING to do with proper valetrain geometry.......you never mentioned the valve stem tip pattern.....its the ONLY thing pushrod length is there for, lift is non sequitor!!!!.......good luck!!

Size matters. That's what my gf told me.

Until you mushroom a set of pushrods, you don't realize how important it is. I feel a lot less confused than before. Considering I thought I knew what I was doing, the mushroom rods say otherwise. Now if you could only do a video on how to use adjustable pushrods, 👍👍👍