was about to buy a '24 with kdss, my gut has been telling me it's a bad idea and i'll regret it, I do tons of washboard driving and such, this video confirmed my suspicion. thank you very much. will be getting a non kdss 4runner

I took my KDSS 4Runner through the Rubicon a few times. I'd guess it's well under 1% of owners who will ever take them down a trail more challenging than the Rubicon. At very low speeds it's excellent. If you have stock control arms, it's hard to get more travel than KDSS will allow at low speeds when the shutter valves are open. It's the medium speed stuff where it comes up very harsh. IMO kdss is better than any other system I know of except one custom setup I've seen. It's a mechanical forced articulation system using torsion springs, a dana 60 center section (spider gears of the open diff mounted adjacent to transfer case) and run to each axle. Very cool, fully mechanical, forced articulation, zero travel restrictions, and excellent handling. But not realistic for an OEM.

Wow! I just saw this video, thank you for the info on the KDSS system including the mods. I was looking into purchasing the system to add to my 4Runner. Now I'm reconsidering. Thanks again!

You can install front and back sway bar from land cruiser 120. You will need to weld the back brackets for back sway bushings and front sway bar installation requires just very minor mods. I have the link with all dimensions and parts - the problem is that it is on RU language. Planning to do such nod once my kdss die

I see why KDSS is not ideal for your application. This is probably why the TRD Pro does not have KDSS. I like the system but agree the off-road harshness is a drawback. I also have the Dr KDSS switch and use it at moderately low speeds on bumpy roads. It definitely smooths ride quality at the speeds I drive but perhaps that is not the case at higher speeds. In any case, thanks for the video. It's good to get feedback on different applications and solutions.

Im sitting here trying to fix the kdss lean on my lifted GX460 (its jacked up with the valves open at the moment) and then i come across this. Ive had vehicles without the front sway bar but never had one without front or back. This might be my first. Thanks for the info.

Wow, excellent video, excellent info. Thank you.

I agree KDSS version aftermarket front skids do have less clearance. The issue here with you hitting your skid is the design of the RSG front skid plate, it hangs down about 1" lower than stock. My oem kdss front skid plate hits way less than my RSG front skid plate on the same trails. Cool skid plate but the lost of ground clearance sucks.

Thank you for doing the internet mythbusting on these "mods" and showing testing and real world use.

You saved me money and headaches. So many videos of people celebrating their kdss when that don't even need it or know what it does lol.

OMG someone talks about it, yes I agree, my 15 tundra no sway bars on king shocks takes dirt roads with mild whoops at speeds of 25-60 mph comfortably. I tried it with my wife’s stock 20 GX460 and it was uncomfortable, almost made me want to rip out KDSS and sway bars.

@mudpuppyoffroad excellent video. I really appreciate all the work and insight you shared. I’m running a 2012 4Runner Trail with approximately 2-2.5 lift and 33” tires. When you removed your front sway bar did you see or notice the CV shafts over extending?

Good stuff! Now Toyota has a bronco like true stabilizer disconnect, I prefer that way over the new e-kdss

Hey! Love these videos as they're super informative. Can you please just let me know what the process is on removing the front sway bar? Is it as simple as removing it from end links and chasis? Would it cause the KDSS light to come on? Mainly looking to improve the ride quality! Thanks for your help/guidance!

I just got $4200 estimate for kdss repair on my lifted truck. I’m thinking it’s time to delete

Does the new EKDSS contribute anything noticeable to on road driving. Specifically, if you put Overtrail tires/wheels on the Luxury plus (that does not have EKDSS) will the on road ride quality be close to the same as Overtrail Plus?

The video you showed comparing old KDSS vs new E-KDSS does show the difference between the two systems with STOCK SUSPENSION and the rebound/compression rate of that stock suspension with the two versions of KDSS. That is all. Aftermarket suspension with lighter or heavier springs, and different valve rates for rebound and compression can make the old KDSS system much worse off road or much better. Perhaps even better than the new E-KDSS system with stock springs and valving. That requires time and money to get right though. I'm looking forward to the new front sway bar disconnect that Toyota/Lexus is putting on newer vehicls.

Have you experienced better off-road articulation with DrKDSS (off) when traveling at off-roading speeds?

I put a gorilla axle on my 2018 Honda foreman on the would be driver side and it wore a little hole on the diff cover could you give me a pointer on getting the pinion out the old cover when I put the new one in ima go back with oem for that side

5th Gen 4R owner with KDSS and icon suspension with bumper and heavy duty springs and have been trying to diagnose my dreaded "kdss clunk" that showed up after shop put on the heavier springs. Exactly as you described the clunk- it's coming from that front cylinder for sure. So first and foremost thank you for the nerdy deep dive into the system and showing how these various mods may or may not impact it. Your assessment of losing travel with adding a spacer on fixed link on the front sway bar makes sense. But now I'm still left wondering if adding the two spacers on that companies sell for the rear might have any disadvantage? My icon kit came with a kdss modified rear panhard bar so i don't really have a clearance issue except maybe at absolute full flex. However, I'm wondering if adding any of these spacers might actually increase pressure in the hydraulic system (that doesn't seem likely in my mind) or particularly in the front change the geometry such that there's less lateral stress on the opposite cylinder assembly thus potentially reducing or eliminating the clunk? Or is it your opinion that the clunk is a sign of irreparable damage to the cylinder/system and a kdss delete is the best route?

Did you delete the Kdss? How’d it go if so?

kdss is very stiff even in the city.. small bumps are felt too much.

I’m dealing with the front cylinder clunk. I replaced it with an eBay part (50k miles) and that one clunks as well! Given your experience with KDSS, do you think the rear sway would work as intended if the front cylinder/sway is removed and the lines are capped off? It wouldn’t work exactly as intended, but seems like an easy way to retain the rear sway and get rid of the front clunk. I may just try it, if I can find the fittings to cap off. Otherwise will need to figure out some other rear sway bar solution. Seems like the rear sway is a must and front is optional for drive-ability

I have a 22' 4runner ORP W/KDSS, and at 13K, driver side cylinder leaked, got serviced and who knows when's it going to leak again.. Is this common problems?

Interesting, seems like it’s almost impossible to have the best of both worlds. I understand why Toyota developed the system, given their wide range of customer use cases, and it does seem to be pretty good in theory. But for your use case definitely seems like it would be advantageous to delete it. Curious to see how much more body roll there is without the system. Also that skid plate put in work lol

Hello, i am from colorado and just bought gx460. may you tell me how much lift you added to cover all these trails in CO? And which lift kit you chose.