Hey Kevin, good to see you in the new shop and making tech videos. The compensator is there for a reason. I’ll never get rid of it. I agree with you completely…..most of us don’t need to remove it.

Hey Kavin, fantastic to see your tech videos again! I opened my Darkhorse comp after 10k miles during primary and clutch maintenance. Cushions were like new. I had new ones for replacement but decided to put back old due to its condition.

Pretty much hit the nail on the head when you brought up the issue of high horsepower and torque in today's engines. The reason we can run straight sprockets and primary chains without tensioners in our oil Panheads is because we're not churning out crazy high H.P. and torque numbers. And even with what we are putting out we break things. Today's big engines shake, rattle and roll and all that energy has to go somewhere. This the introduction of compensators. Eliminate them at your own risk because eventually something's going to give. Nice little video.

Always useful to tune into the latest banter, no doubt there's no shortage of confusion there to clear up hehe. Whichever way you choose to teach please keep it coming Kevin, can't tell you what you've done for my bike building knowledge.

I changed my Man O War in my 128" build at 20,000 miles to see if I'd notice any wear. The new bushings quieted it down. So while 20,000 miles doesn't seem like a lot, remember it is a 150hp 128" and the bushings are only $40.00 and really quick to change...not to mention the better drivetrain feel the Man O War gives...

You have the best HD information on the internet, period. Very informative even for people not mechanically inclined like me.

40,000 miles with the manowar compensator, working perfectly and not noisy with my Heritage. Engine build perfect, might have something to do with that, also ride moderately. I can and do recommend the product strongly. Glad to see you back in your business, looking great. Hope to get together soon, best always. Bob

My Darkhorse compensator has been working perfectly so far.. They make a great one! I drove over to WI. to their shop directly from MI. to purchase it. Thanks for your recommendations. 20 K on it and running strong! M8 107 2017 Roadglide Special..

Great tech video as always. You always are honest about your opinions and thoughts on any subject. You don't try to push one way or another and always give plenty of info to consider. Thank you!

I have Hayden primary a tensioner. I have run them for 30 years. I got a 2020 Road limited new. I put the Hayden in the first week. Last fall I put a Dark Horse in 5000 miles. No noise from the primary. Love the Dark Horse. Very happy to see you back

I just replaced my compensator in my 2007 Street Glide with 56,000 miles on it. I some what knew the purpose of the comp was but your video explained it perfectly. Thanks for educating to me on what a compensator does.

Kevin, you speak reason. As an engineer myself, I recognize that Harley engineers are not infallible. However, they are the experts in that particular design and they don’t add features just to make the product more expensive for the consumer initially or to make it more expensive to maintain. Those features like the compensator are added to make the product more reliable overall. Deletion of a certain feature should only be done after learning why it exists and deliberating the resulting pros and cons. You’ve added some education to why the compensator exists and what can happen if it’s deleted, which is truly helpful. Thanks!

Really appreciate that video. Not having trouble out of my compensator. Have an '02 Dyna Super Glide and was researching for an upgraded comp. for future reference and couldn't find any. You answered my question without me asking. Guess I won't worry too much about it. Thanks

I appreciate you talking in layman terms, and also appreciate the honesty that you give.

Exactly what my intuition was whispering in my ear. Make perfect sense to me. Better to replace compensator than trans, clutch and many other components

Kevin, I agree with your choice. When I watched your video with Dark Horse and saw the Dark Horse product, I knew I wanted one in my bike. Little did I know at that time I was going to do a full build. I am glad now I waited. If I remember, you couldn't wait to get to there new part to talk about it. I back it up and watched it twice. I just ordered me a Skunked Hoodie. We are having some cooler mornings down here in Georgia too.

And on belt drives, clutch hub is a wearable part. I would never get rid of the compensator, on a modern, daily rider. JMO. Great video!

I swapped my Comp ramp in my FLFBS with a tool steel one from CycleRama. Problem Solved. Compensator features preserved. Was a fairly easy swap. You dont need to pull the clutch basket. You can pull the entire compensataor out once you remove the chain tensioner.

Just saw this video Kevin I thoroughly enjoy your videos they are very informative. I just upgraded my 2011 FLHX with a 96” TC motor with a new S&S Camchest kit, oil pump etc. based off watching your videos I took great care to measure everything to assure my crank and other areas within the camchest were in spec. I replaced the stock compensator with a dark horse comp, Barnett clutch with the coil spring pressure plate to assure I had no issues in the primary. Since the upgrades I increased my torque to 110ftlbs. I had the bike tuned and put in a dyno it throws out respectable numbers for a stage 2 with my set up on that motor. Thank you for passing on your knowledge it definitely helps with making sound decisions.

Kevin you're right on time with this one...... I'm about ti pop my primary open for inspection of everything in a 42k mile new to me 2011 Crossbones. Have been eyeing the Darkhorse unit as a possible upgrade if I need to replace my compensator.

Had to replace my compensator on my O4 after some one did a complete engine rebuild. They didn't check it but I found it along with a lot of more problems.

Thanks for this video, Kevin. I am new to Harleys, and am discussing whether to upgrade or delete my factory compensator on my '21 M8 107, which I upgraded to Stage II. Since I don't race, the answer is clear to keep the compensator, but I will upgrade to high alloy steel billet. I have seen reports of stock cast compensators cracking even at lower miles. I don't run the power many do, but even so that's an untenable failure on the road!

This is excellent information, by a Very Experienced Motor Builder.. And I will back up his Opinions fully, because I had an eliminator, but the clutch soon needed a new splineed hub..I did put back a compensator, currently It runs and shifts more smoothly.

Went to a manual primary chain adjuster and solid sprocket. At 10k miles and counting, like being able to find neutral and the easy gear shifts.

On my '09 Road King, I have chosen to compensate. After 70k miles the oe compensator began to fail, I opted for the factory recommended S.E. for replacement, my engine is relatively stock aside from an increase in displacement(to 103ci) and the usual "stage 1" goodies, I'm also not an aggressive rider (as I once was in my youth😉), so far so good and I don't expect it to fail anytime soon with my style of riding. Ride on all and be safe.

Substituting beer for coffee.but I’m watching and listening. Good info.Thanks

I needed to replace the comp on my 06 Road King, and thought I would try an eliminator. So I purchased a well known Comp eliminator sprocket. installed it and it lasted in the bike 3 days. I hated the way it felt! I felt it totally changed the way the ride ability of the bike. Very pulsey, almost like I could feel every fire of the cylinders. ya it might be for some people but I personally hated the feel. So I installed the new comp and everything was sweet again. Good video.

Nice job Kevin, you explained that very well 👍

Excellent explanation on the compensator eliminate debate-totally concur with your views/opinion on the subject👍🏻

Another vote here for the Man O War. I have one in my 2015 Ultra and I love it. Shifting is so much better. It didn't really have a shifting problem before but now its silky smooth.

Awesome video, working on bikes myself for living for quite a few years and from time to time, not always but there will come a bike with its springs shattered inside needing spring discs replaced and good to go, and a good service of course. But on my case there tends to be a trend and these bikes for the most part have either neglected service such as regular km oil changes, and/or as you stated very aggressive along with a few bad habits when riding (conclusions made after talking to clients leading me to that) great content sir, a huge follower all the way from Chile, south America

Mr. Kevin I think your videos are outstanding! So much so, when my 2015 Road Glide Special hits 50k I plan on taking it to you from Albuquerque, NM for a complete rebuild.

Great vid Kevin. I have a stage 2 107 M8 and I want reliability. I choose to keep the stock comp and if it fails which I don’t expect it too because I don’t abuse my bike, I’ll just replace it with an upgraded ramp and spring pack. I want my transmission, clutch and driveline to stay healthy. I’ll build a SE 119 or a 124 some day and will still keep the compensator. My right wrist will roll the power on slower and I’ll shift the bike easier to keep the primary and driveline from getting hammered to aggressively.

I’m running an extra spring in my compensator by Dan Thayer and I have 110,000 miles (18 RG) on the stock comp with a built motor. I ride briskly, but I don’t beat on it.

Kevin good video, I've got a 2008 CVO its my babe of choice, I have 76,842 on the clock I've had to replace the primary chain looked at my compensator there is very little wear. I'm a cruiser rider LD is weekly thing but from day one I changed oil products I'm my bike I contribute that to assisting in reduced friction less wear. I use a fully synthetic oil from Amisol. In all 9 of my bikes. Never had a comp failure.

Good information and explanation Kevin, thanks for sharing. 👍🏻🇺🇸

You explain it in a way that makes logical sense. These parts are put in for a reason. The Motor Company wouldn’t add more for no reason. I’m in the camp of having a compensator.

Thanks Kevin, you've answered a lot of my questions. I will be doing the Dark Horse!

Good explanation! I've made an aluminum shim to tighten the spring preasure on mine,I ride mine to drag race wheelie and travel at highspeeds and shim Works well! Solid mount I've stripped clutch basket splines,no issues after adding shim Cheers

Good insight - My billet Comp and Evolution Industires New Comp Spring packs are a good match. Compensators are a serviceable item and should be looked at for wear and if worn replace'em. My guess is checking around 10-15k unless sooner is needed for some unforeseen reason.

Good information as usual Kevin ! Thankyou!

Thanks for sharing. I really enjoy your videos!

Installed a Dark Horse compensator along with a Oregon Hot Bike hydraulic chain tensioner. Better throttle response, smoother shifting, and dead quiet primary! 2015 SGS.

Rite on ...sounds like good since....it is what it is ...look like you caught up on rest,congratulations on your new shop may you prosper my friend 👍☕️☕️✌️

I have a Baker Compensator 36,000 miles on it no issues at all well worth the money . Great Video Kevin !!

Good to see you making videos again!!

Thanks Kevin. I have been doing research into what you just covered in your podcast. I have a 2018 HD Softail deluxe flde and I want to have work done on my primary side ie compensator, clutch etc.

Thank you!!! Great info!!

Very good Topic Kevin we have a Company that produces these Compensator Ramps in Australia in Gladstone Queensland they are making these items that are virtually indistructable the name of the Company is called ALPHA PERFORMANCE ENGINES (APE) ,, The guys at Harbour City Harley Davidson really do know their Stuff and are Building some Awesome Big Power out of these M8 engines aswel like I'm talking 165 HP 173 Ft Lbs of torque and Beyond. But here I think the component is valued at around $700. Keep up the Great work Kevin I always love watching all of your informative videos Maaaaate. Brett in AU🇦🇺

I have a solid on a 120 Evo, I also have the Dark horse on my S.2 M8 r.king I love it. Probably will be going back to the original comp. on the Evo. Always a pleasure thank you sir.

I just recently started watching your videos and have already learned quite a bit about my motorcycle. I have a 1999 DYNA Super Glide and a 2016 Ultra Limited (Shriners/Fireman) model, I am neither but I really enjoy my bike. I know just enough about the Ultra Limited to make me dangerous at this point. The Ultra Limited I bought used with 16k+ miles almost 3 years ago and I don’t know if the previous owner did any cam upgrades, cam plate, etc. I’m going to watch more of your videos before I ask you anything because you might have already posted my questions. Thanks for your time, knowledge, and advice. Yes I’ve SUBSCRIBED.

You have to be the most agreeable engineer I've ever seen. Keep it up.

I have heard, and totally believe that quite a few failures of compensators were / are caused by bad riding habits, and NOT just overly aggressive riders, but the crowd that likes to lug their engine. You know, the guys that short shift their bikes, and are heavy on the throttle at sub 3,500 rpms.

Great video, point well made, l am going to fit a Dark Horse or Baker Drivetrain compensator, have not decided which one yet, to my 2010 Fatboy Lo, beginning to clank loudly on start up and neutral difficult to find sometimes, l suppose it must be the compensator.........

Thank you for this information I've been considering eliminating my compensator but after careful consideration I think I'll just replace it.

Thank you. I got my shovelhead stroker with a non-compensator sprocket 15+ years ago. Everything you said makes perfect sense. I imagine the engine pulses are even worse with a stroked engine. Your well put together video answered a bunch of long lingering questions. My '79 FLH is chain/chain and never cruised as smooth as I would like. Feeling the hard friction somewhere in the drivetrain bugs the crap out of me, I am in the process of swapping transmissions. I have the primary cover off, and when I squeeze the primary chain together the clutch basket moves back and forth considerably. I now am wondering what kind of nightmare I am facing with removing the clutch basket, "It all goes somewhere". I'm afraid I am going to find out where.

Thanks for the vid, it definitely helped make my mind up about changing to an eliminator. Let's just say I have a softail with compensator.

Thanks Kevin, great food for thought as always..photo bomb fly!

Well Said!! Thank you sir.

I ran a solid gear on my 2013 Road Glide for roughly 500 miles, I didn't like the feel the bike had running, more of a vibration, so I went back to the SE compensator and haven't had any issues so far.

good video Iam at 165 hp on my everyday bagger and I run cycle rama ramp no problems

From what i understand, the weakest compensators from HD came in stock bikes from the 06-09 Dynas and 07-09 FLs and Softails.

Nice info kevin, thank you for your honesty my man! 👊

Good information. Thanks!

Your info reminds me of the guy that replaces his stock bumper with a piece of iron. Then a minor hit bends his frame instead just the stock bumper. Thank you.

I’m running a Dark Horse balanced crank with their dark horse compensator on a mild 110 build. I don’t baby it but I don’t beat it to death either.

My comparator went out 😢 I have a 21 road glide limited with 10,100 miles so its out of warranty. I ended up with a billet comp ramp, new starter, new battery, I had one burnt clutch plate so I went with a set of heavier clutch springs. Add in the labor and my bill was $1,800. I'm not happy and about to sell my Harley and buy a GoldWing!!!!! I am mad that every time I take my bike to the shop its a minnum of $1,000! New "lo miles bikes" shouldn't have catastrophic failures, for the price of a new motorcycle today it should not brake OR have a better warranty!

I've decided this video is spot on. I tried a solid...........Don't do it. I took it right out as the chain clatter worsened especially at Idle. There was no more compensation for the pulses. I had the dealer install a booster spring on the original compensator and that was the ticket to a smoother shifting quieter compensator. 2014 Rushmore edition.

Thank you for the GREAT !!!!! information !!!!!

I agree the Dark Horse unit is a great way to go. I’ve got 2 years on mine with no issues. 2010 Softail Convertible street / strip.

I'm guessing that it could be said that the compensator is a sacrificial link that helps preserve other components in the drive chain setup, kind of like a fuse in an electrical system. So it's a replacement item that's easier and less costly to replace than everything downstream, would you say?

Thanks Kevin, just what I needed to here.

The engine shaft side variator pulley on my moped is made of aluminum I've replaced it many times but it's a lot cheaper than a bent crank! I think this is a similar situation.

Awesome vid! And I personally think that if it's in there from factory there's a reason. For the most part at least. Cheers from frosty Alberta Canada 🇨🇦

Good content...a little less tension on the drive chain working for mine..Carry on

I wish some one made a compensator for belt drive ..it would save wear and tear on the trans and engine shaft...I run an Evo with 4speed trans on an fxstwg /chain at the wheel...fun ride old school...thks for sharing ..stay safe..Peace

Well thought out. I am a fan of belt drives.

LORDY, IN THE FIRST 20 SECONDS I SEE PREMIUMN EQUIPMENT, GOOD FOR YOU AND THE REST OF US THAT LEARN AND GET SERVICED BYE YOUR SHOP. I WISH GREAT BUSINESS FOR YOU.

Great feedback, Kevin 👌

Thank you Kevin it is a great informacion that sometimes we take for granted just because we want to go fast. But at what cost?, thank you again

Excellent video brother!!! Keep'em comin'!!!

I've got an 07 ultra. I put the darkhorse unit in it with no regrets.

Thank you.

Thanks

Great thought and much appreciated! There is a place for the compensator for a reason! Well explained. To each His Own, you have shared the Facts Well! Thank you

Kevin, I have a 2012 Road king and I put the Screamin eagle compensator on mine and it works fine. I think it’s the same thing as the stock compensator just a little more heavy duty.

GREAT show 👏 👍

Kevin, good chat on the subject, is there any way to tell if you have a compensator going bad other than tearing into it ?

I am trying this year the Evolution Spring pack. So far I believe it is superior to Factory. Not allowing the ramp assembly to slide as much. I have a performance motor so I will let you know how long this modification last.

Great info, have a question about the baker compensator for the M8.

Compensators are not currently an issue for me but that you for the lesson.

Thank you, so in your opinion would you at least replace the stock ramp with a star or a moonshiners ramp?

Ready with Coffee!! Great Info!

Good evening all (from Cleveland Ohio) I just finished watching the video watching multiple times, I understand that if you are going through compensators like oil filters, there are other problems that need to be addressed first. Right now I have an 02 RoadKing with 100 CI S&S big bore kit, ported heads, and cams, I am happy with the performance and no compensator issues, but like people with old muscle cars, that want an 8-71 blower sticking out of the hood, I am thinking of having an S&S 124 kit installed. One topic that was mentioned, was the fact that people who owned bikes like mine back in the day, were not pushing them that hard, but with updating an 88 to 124, you would basically be rebuilding the entire engine, if everything checked out, and the compensator kept failing, what would be my options besides eliminating it, is it just rebuilding the stock one designed before 07 and upgrading the ramp? This question is driving me crazy, if I owned an 07 or later, just call Darkhorse/Baker and be done with it. Are early twin cams left out of all these upgrades, because they usually don't have any issues? Thanks in advanced, Tom

Excellent !

Sportsters were sold with compensating sprocket on e start and straight sprocket on kickstart models until the mid 70s. The old timers told me horror stories, but I havent seen it first hand. People have run straight sprockets on pans and shovels for years and have generally been fine

Knowing when your HD is using the compensator or the clutch is important. If you use the clutch properly it will slip as you add power and take off. If you do not use the clutch properly the compensator will chunk-chunk-chunk to compensate for the lack of slipping in the clutch. Since most riders only know how to kick a bike and gear and take off, you'll hear that compensator chunk-chunk-chunking after they duck walked their bike away from the curb.

I got tired of replacing the stock compensator ( twice in 2500 miles) went to the baker set up and got rid of the stock Harley primary chain adjustment set up and went back to a manual adjustment and have zero issues since. I feel the stock Harley primary adjustment device puts way too much pressure on the primary chain which I feel might be the issue with comp sprockets making noise and failing Harley has to know there is a big issue here when my local Harley dealer keeps plenty of these in stock! Hmmmm…..

here is my experience with the dark horse hybrid comp and an evolution complete stage one clutch basket. 2015 flhp. purchased with 1500 miles. like a fool i caused an issue with the clutch by installing a device to assist with the heavy clutch pull of the flhp. i believe it caused early problems with starting, finding neutral ETC. i installed a DH comp and Evolution complete set up with the billet inner-using blue springs. I had a VERY pronounced neutral rattle. also, some drive line noises until warmed up. after about 1000 miles, to satisfy my OCD, i tore it down to RE-check tolerances and torque specs. while doing so, i damaged the billet inner clutch basket so i ordered their steel one as a replacement (AND THE PROPER CLUTCH TOOL). All tolerances were WAY in spec. this time, I did change the way I installed the Compensator bolt. This time instead of cranking it to spec, I used the method in the manual. You have to season the threads by tq'ing to 100 ft lbs-----back it off and THEN crank it to full spec. (make sure to use a NEW comp bolt!) I even Re-used the same clutch plates. Quiet as a church mouse now. I'm VERY happy with the set up. THE ONLY negative is that at about 2800-3000 rpm, there is a bit of a shutter felt when at steady throttle. this is not from my tune. i'm using a thundermax auto tuner.

Before I watch IMO to eliminate is only pushing the problem of the weakest link to another location to absorb. To eliminate again IMO should be reserved for 1/4 miles runs not the street but hey it's just my opinion. OK now I'll watch and get the education, might change my mind Kevin.