That chassis is a work of art. Its main performance enhancement is in your head: it makes you produce more endorphins while you drive ending up with a bigger smile and more fun! Thanks for the video.

You can also add spacers under the shock piston to shorten the shock travel. This is what most do to stop dog-bone loss.

Can you not just drop some spacers in the shocks to stop the dampers travelling so far?

That's an awesome chassis. That black will look nice underneath the red body. Excellent video Fil!

Excellent video. The chassis looks good. I think you're right about drilling some holes further along for the rear shocks to eliminate the excessive droop. Enjoy your weekend Phil 🙂👍🏼

Wow! I did not know there was an aluminum chassis out there for the ORV. That’s awesome!

That's an awesome looking chassis. I hope it's as awesome as it looks too! Ought to be fun to bash!

The Hot Trick Red Prince chassis had the same issue with the rear arms. Install a screw in the extra hole on the outside rear arm pivot, then trim the stop on the arm to limit rear travel. Limiting shock extension would work too.

Just going to echo the rest of the comments. I go to the hardware store and pick up some soft fuel hose for small engines like weedwackers. Cut to length and slip over the shock rod internally. It's a softer stop than spacers and being for fuel it holds up to oil.

What a fantastic chassis Fil. When I win the lottery this is the first thing I'm going to buy. Great stuff buddy. ATB and stay safe fella.

OH BABY! YES!

Fit internal spacers on the piston shaft to reduce the overall eye to eye length of the shock absorbers..

I dunno how I missed this and the running video. But watching now

Nice vid! Besides the "dogbone situation", the honest guide reviews on aftermarket parts could be a thing for your channel after all, cause we crave for some of those products and it is very informative when someone shows them as you do. Keep the good work. Cheers from Chile!

Put spacers under the piston in the shock to limit suspension droop.

You Macgyver that suspension dude!

Another way to limit the shocks that might be a little cleaner and more permanent solution is to make up some limiter straps the length you need and mount them to the back side of the shock mounts on the chassis and trailing arm so that the strap parallels the length of the shock between the mount and the chassis.

With your dampers maybe you could use spacers inside the dampers that would limit the travel of the piston. just a thought!!

Maybe spacers inside shock bodies? Their shocks they sell must be shorter is what I am thinking! Excellent video bro💯

G'day mate wow the orv chassis looks great love your cat trying to get in all the shots can't let my cat in my rc room walks over the top they chews parts off bad cat lucky to be alive lol. Wasn't going to say anything about you holding it upside down I knew you'd work it out build time. Love your video's mate and Oliva chassis are are the ducks nuts that's Australia for very nice mate 👍👍

The stock plastic chassis has tabs that stop the arms drooping quite as far as the metal chassis

Awesome content! You have a new sub! 👍

I think it’s time for a 4 wheel drive lunchbox. Or Blackfoot. It’s my next project 😊😊😊

Excellent chassis upgrade Fil! I LOVE the ORV..... have 5 in total (restored vintage beetle, restored vintage mud blaster, re re blackfoot, re re monster beetle and a heavily modified beetle that's my go to runner.) This chassis gets a lot of hate, but once it's issues are rectified it is a very tough, great handling fun rig! On my runner I also have the super stock bz motor and MIP ball diff (which is essential!), upgraded Alluminium shocks, working lights, alloy steering servo saver etc etc. And, like you so rightly said- On 2s with that superstock it's an absolute animal! After trying many different ways to stop it chucking out drive shafts, or even having them splitting through the rubber gators I simply mounted a small nut on the underside of the chassis where the trailing arms make contact on each side. This effectively slightly reduces the travel of the rear arms when fully released. It works a treat and hasn't spat a dogbone out ever again since! Trust me, it works a treat, and gives the rear end a slightly lower stance which actually improves the handling. Anyway bud, great video, I will definitely be looking into one of these chassis, as well as some of those other upgrades! Keep up the great content mate. 👍 👍 👍 👍

I have a metal chassis on my Sand Viper. No performance upgrade, but it's cool as hell.

i would put a spacer inside the shock, to prevent it from extend too much

Hey that's really cool. With the rear suspension droop, on the original plastic chassis the suspension is limited by a part of the arm hitting a part of the chassis rather than the length of the shocks. What I did was to put extra screws in the chassis to limit the movement further. Difficult to describe but I show it in my video "Tamiya ORV Blackfoot Review and Mods. ORV Chassis Problems and Issues". I'm not sure if it's possible to do such a mod to that metal chassis. If not then it would put me off buying it. Also the body posts are a major weak point so they could do with a mod also. Otherwise, looks great 👍

Love it

brotha just put spacers inside the shocks to limit the travel, works great!!

Awesome chassis looks killer! Spacers on the shocks shafts works well to reduce travel but I think a few have said this already probably! Smart looking gear though Fil but will confess I'll be leaving mine standard as way too much for me being a tamiya royalist lol.. Cheers buddy.

I love it! My only gripe is when you go to the music it's just way too loud continuously putting the volume up and down up and down up and down

Wish I had seen this BEFORE I built my frog.

All those option parts available and nothing that addresses the fundamental weakness of the vehicle which is the gearbox. They should definitely consider making some heavy duty gearbox side plates that prevent the diff from spreading/striping

I think if it’s a light as you say and with all the other mods you have on it then it has to make a difference and having the steering servo central to the who chassis again must make a small difference🤷‍♂️

Add spacers inside the rear shocks.

I'm not sure but it looks like maybe the front of the rear suspension mounts might be on the wrong way round, not teaching you to suck eggs but that is what I think the over droop might be happening

I didn't know that about the dog bones dropping out I'm going to look in to that is it only on the big wheel monster trucks not the frog

Use some fuel tube to internally limit the shocks

You should weigh the basic kit before you strip and change the chassis then weigh the finished project and compare

Very cool good Job poor boy😂

Why not use a smaller suspension to solve the drooping problem?

Used to be aluminum parts were changed for nylon for the weight benefits. How much much does this chassis weigh?

Do they make aluminum parts for Tamiya boomerang

are the rear front shock mounts installed the right way

nice video liked it a lot but the extremly load shreeky music had me turning the volume down and then had to turn it back up to hear what u are saying the whole time

I was so exited when i first saw this on Ebay, only to find out It doesnt work in all orv models, at least It doesnt work on my King Blackfoot, such a shame, as I run It with an 80a esc, and a 3660 3500kv motor, It would have been great!!! P.S. the solution Is to fit smaller shocks on the rear

Use shorter shocks?

It's called mechanical speedcontroller, not manual!

That fingernail is looking better! Must have running video !

The constant change in loudness gets annoying quite quickly. Especially when using headphones. 😵‍💫

FIRST,, 🎉. cooles Vid