You are very welcome Eric. Thanks for the feedback, KPO.

wish you could show how you did that I NEED TOO SEE /NOT TO SMART

Glad to help

Glad to help

Victor, it's great to have you along. Thank you, KPO.

Glad it helped!

You're very welcome!

Yes, a lot of people don't realize that, thanks for watching, KPO.

Thank you for your comment, I hope they help, KPO

Great to hear!

Never thought of this. Going to try it out. Thanks

Awesome! Glad the video helped and yes the swing away tongue would be another point of concern. Thanks for adding in and thanks for watching, KPO.

Glad it helped!

Mike, thanks a lot for that comment. I have a few more trailer light vids rolling around in my head dealing with specific problems. I just need to put them to video. Thanks for the support, KPO.

Awesome! So glad this video helped out. Trailer lights can be a pain if your not too familiar with them.

You're very welcome!

Awesome! So glad I could help!

Glad to hear it, KPO.

Great to hear!

Glad I could help!

Glad it helped!

Awesome! Here is a whole playlist of my trailer light vids - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y5dknstjqb_If6M.html Should be something in there for most problems. Any questions feel free to ask.

@@KnettersPracticalOutdoors I watched the whole series last night. I have not been back at yet and waiting on some replacement stuff and if i have problems I will ask thank you. one part I think your missing is attaching the wiring into the actual car. I had problems with my toyota, it didnt work as the instructions told me to do it. so i paid someone 50 bucks because i was ignorant and lazy.

You are very welcome, KPO.

Glad it was helpful!

Glad to hear the video helped! Thanks for watching, KPO.

You're welcome!

Thanks for adding in and thanks for the support!

Dude, thanks for those comments! Glad to share!

Great to hear!

true

Glad it helped, KPO.

Glad you like them!

Glad you liked it!

Welcome

No problem 👍

You are welcome, KPO.

@@KnettersPracticalOutdoors my issue was totaly grounding issues. the studs on 3/4 lights were totally corroded out. i had to dremel off 3 bolts just to get all of the lights off. i threw out the old lights, bought new, ground down the metal at the attachment points and sprayed everything down with anti-seize spray before assembling. i also went to the insane extreme of running a ground wire from every light stud to the main grounding lug under the trailer! it should be trouble-free for years!

Yes, great point, KPO.

You are welcome!

Yes! It's really a design flaw with trailer manufacturers. Glad the videos helped. Thanks for the comment, KPO.

Great to hear. Thanks for letting me know that.

You are welcome, KPO.

Glad it helped! KPO

welcome!

Thanks for the sub!

Something is wired wrong, RV side or pulled vehicle side or both, KPO.

@@KnettersPracticalOutdoors Thanks so much for responding but I reviewed ALL your vid’s and finally figured it out. I had two ground wires attached and when I disconnected one the problem was solved. Love your channel.

You bet!

Very welcome!

You are welcome!

It seems like grounds account for half the problems. Thanks for the comment, KPO.

You are welcome!

Glad it helped!

Welcome

Great!

You're welcome!

No problem!

Welcome aboard!

No problem!

Glad to help Richard, KPO.

Awesome! KPO

Thanks for that comment.

Thanks stay cool.

You are welcome! Thanks for the comment.

Elliott, well the closer to zero ohms the better. A good wire measured over 20 ft or so should be very close to zero, so your trailer frame should be the same. Now less than 2 or 3 ohms would probably be fine, but less is better. KPO

Awesome!

Is the older trailer have regular bulbs or LEDs? Regular bulbs can draw more than newer cars are designed for. So some newer cars may need a converter to handle the trailer requirements.

Let me know how it went.

Welcome!

Sometimes lights can do some weird things when they aren't grounded. They can use the other circuits as grounds sometimes. It's been my experience that if you're not grounded properly just about anything can happen. Get that ground fixed and go from there. Thanks for watching John, KPO.

No, shouldn't happen. Could it have been static? Unless you are really wet you shouldn't even feel 12 volts, KPO.

Make sure every fixture is grounded properly. Also any bolt together parts need continuity. Let me know how it turns out, KPO.

Thanks for the comment, KPO.

Checking all fixtures for good grounds is a great place to start.

I have often used stainless steel self tapers. I use some in this video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y5dknstjqb_If6M.html

@@KnettersPracticalOutdoors Just reporting back, ground issue fixed with your help. Those self tappers worked. Thank you!

Well the trailer can have continuity, but each fixture needs to be grounded properly too. And yes, mice love to eat wires for some reason. So anything is possible.

You are on the right track. I think it's just a cheaper way to do things. I'm working on another trailer light video right now where I talk about that very idea. If you run white to all fixtures just be sure to still ground the white to frame. That way any short circuits will still blow fuses and let you know there is a problem, KPO.

@@KnettersPracticalOutdoors it seems logical and the (problematic) LED trailer lights I am trying to fix at the moment have a sealed single earth throughout the wiring loom. The problem is that resistance increases over long distances. So you want short earth wires when you can. Those short individual ones for each light are the best option. A big steel trailer is a better conductor than a tiny copper wire. BTW your explanations are fanstastic.

Thank you for that comment, KPO.

Awesome! I'm pretty flexible, but if you can get Spotted Cow from Wisconsin, that's my favorite, KPO.

You are welcome my friend.

Thank you.

Thanks, KPO

This absolutely sounds like a ground problem. The circuit is back feeding through the bulbs because it doesn't have a good ground path. That's why they all blink. When you clean the connection point make sure and disconnect the wires and clean the connection point real good. You may even have to use sand paper to get through the corrosion. Maybe even run a temporary wire from your grounds to the front of the trailer and ground them there just to see if that's the problem. Also make sure the vehicle and the trailer are grounded together, KPO.

So glad to hear this helped! Thanks for watching, KPO.

Aluminum is a great conductor. Wire is made from aluminum sometimes when lighter weights are needed. You can run a white wire to each fixture, but if you get through the paint, grounding at the fixture shouldn't be an issue, KPO.

If there was never a white wire on the trailer plug to the frame of the trailer, the trailer may have been grounded through the hitch to the car frame. But over time the continuity of your hitch might have diminished. Maybe this is why it used to work. Try this trick, take a wire and touch it to the frame of the trailer with one end and then the car frame with the other. If you get good continuity between the two your lights might start working. I did another video addressing this issue, LINK - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gseFnZqLrtjbcZ8.html If this helps you may want to add a plug that has the white wire on the trailer side. Let me know how it turns out, KPO.

I don't have much experience with enclosed trailers, but there must be a way. The fixtures must come off somehow right? What if you had to change one? Sorry I don't have a specific answer but they must come off some way. If you take the lens cover off is there some screws that hold the fixture in place or do they snap out like some car fixtures? There's a way. Let me know what you find, KPO.

Does the sprinter work with a known good trailer? Do you have a history of the sprinter trailer lights working with the way they are wired now? Plug a known good trailer into the sprinter or even a tail light package. That should tell you a lot.

You are welcome! Thanks for letting me know that!

You are welcome my friend, KPO.

Bro what I’ve been watching your videos for months and I’m fixing the taillights on my trailer and you happened to comment that’s awesome

@@rookysparta0443 did u fix it? lol

I would double check the white. Make sure it is truly grounded to the frame.

Its good to have the trailer grounded also. Any short circuits will then blow fuses as they should.

I know, I have done some in other videos, KPO.

Welcome

Yes this will cure many problems. Just be sure to ground the white to the trailer also. That way shorts to the trailer will blow fuses as they should, KPO.

You are ahead of the curve bud. Not many people would do that. I personally always use wire the whole length of the run for the ground plus jumping over on the frame from any junction boxes.

It is the continuity of the trailer or grounding of the trailer. Check out this other video I did. This will explain it better. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gseFnZqLrtjbcZ8.html It really sounds like your trailer isn't grounded properly. This video may help also kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y5dknstjqb_If6M.html Let me know how it goes

Did you check the ground on the vehicle side too. Wiggle the wires way up under the vehicle. Something has to be loose. Also remember to check for any separations in the trailer itself. You may have a spot that takes the bumps of the road to show itself (tilt bed, bolt on fixture ext.) Let me know what you find, KPO.

ok

Hahah so with all that mess- the painted trailer shouldn’t matter, as long as all the grounding points are cleaned to bare metal, right?

Yes down to bare metal and the trailer needs to have continuity also, KPO

Those are great ideas

If the ground at the plug is connected near the hitch and the trailer frame doesn't have continuity back to the fixtures, then all the other stuff does matter. Unless you are describing a ground wire hardwired all the way front to back to each fixture.

Whenever another light comes on that isn't supposed to, it is almost always a grounding issue. Your right fixture doesn't have a good path to ground and is back feeding thru another fixture. That's why they both come on. I would double check the right fixture for a good ground. KPO

@@KnettersPracticalOutdoors Think I figured it out. I used a 12V battery and some alligator clips to work my way through every segment of the circuit starting at the tail lights. Thankfully, all the wiring on my trailer is easily accessible. All checked out fine til I hit the 7-pin connector up front. Disassembled it, put it back together... problem solved. In a 7-pin the right turn light pin is adjacent to the pin for the running lights. I think a strand or two of copper wire from the right tail light might have come out and touched the running light pin. Whenever I turned on the right signal, it was energizing both circuits. If I had noticed the running lights blinking I probably would have figured it out, but because they are around the side of the trailer, I missed that important detail. Water and electrical issues account for something like 90 percent of RV trailer problems. Your videos have been very helpful.

@@kabukiarmadillo Glad to help. Thanks for the comment, KPO.