what sort of grinder were you using? I started on my 1x30, which I am still using.. but I started out doing convex bevels using the slack section of belt above the little grinding platen. I got good results that way. I've only recently started doing flat grinding.

Yes, Walter is a good instructor for the novice knife maker. Or should I just say that he's a good instructor, period.

haha very true.

This is more than true lol

Lol.. when your skindi grind turns into a pukko.

High if you want to remove a lot of material without taking forever, medium speeds for putting bevel and cutting edge, finally use slower speeds to do fine details/polishing the piece. Hope to be of help.

I'd love to see some info about grinding bevels and such on the 4x36. I know it's not optimal, but for me, it's all I have right now.

I have to admit I've never really used 4 X 36s...except to mess around with them in other guys shops, so I don't know that I have that much useful info to share!

Thank you anyway I appreciate it

On these 4x36s the belt doesn't go to the side you still have metal surface without a sliding belt you would need to cut out a slot on the side of the grinder so you can use that to make a clean smooth bevel

Work With Nature an angle grinder could be used to get the bulk of the metal off in the absence of a belt grinder, but you'll never get a good grind with it. My recommendation would be to take 80-90% of the material off with the angle grinder, and then finish with a file to even everything out

Check back through my videos and you'll find one that I did maybe a year or so ago.

ALet338 same problems

You guys could get one of those hand belt sanders used for like coffee tables and sanding large surfaces of wood and clamp the handle into a vice works really well if you dont mind working on your material downwards instead of vertical

I've gotten good results from using this method. I'd recommend a Skil belt sander. It did great for about a year and you're not too upset when it craps out on you since they're not all that expensive. Also stay away from the Rigid belt sander if loud and whiny is a deal breaker for you.

ALet338 😯

Try using a bit less pressure and running the blade across the belt a bit faster and at a more even speed. You're probably pausing or moving at an irregular speed across the belt IMO. Also try keeping your thumb behind the flat right in the center of the belt, and slide the flat against your thumb, so that the pressure stays constant, instead of varying as your thumb moves in relation to the platen. I actually use my thumbnail to apply pressure this way instead of the pad of the thumb, as it slides more smoothly across the steel. Works best with a tool rest although you can make a 'rest' with your hand to slide the blade through, but it risks bloody knuckles. The last thing is that as long as you're not too close to the plunge line, you can tilt the blade up or down, so that the flat is still flat on the belt, but you are grinding at, say, a 45 degree angle down the length of the blade instead of perpendicular to the edge. This gives you a much longer plane of contact and allows you to bridge the peaks of all those waves, which will help you get them all back in the same plane. Hope that wasn't too long winded! Happy grinding!

If you just want to practice grinding, you can't beat mild steel bars sold as welding steel. You can't harden them, but they're comparitively cheap.

Walter Sorrells thank you sir.

I second this. I have been wanting to make a bread knife for a while but short of quite expensive grinding wheels, there aren't many options that I have seen. Tired to freehand some with a small 1/2" sanding drum and 1/4" grinding wheel but they turned out sub par and I had to grind them back to a standard full flat.

The most sure fire way that I have found to put serrations in is to carefully file them. You could also Dremel them in but don't use a die grinder - way too aggressive. Be mindful of your angles, be consistent - you can aim the file by standing in one spot and try and get the same sight picture each time or use a jig. Or if you're like me just go for it - the spikes are meant for protecting the edge and tearing, not for geometric perfection.

I would like to see this as well, just out of curiosity (not going to try it anytime soon). My guess is that without a CNC machine of some kind, the best bet would be to use a very thin contact wheel with a thin flexible belt. If you watch “Man at Arms: Reforged”, you’ll see them use a grinder like this regularly for fullers and other stuff. My guess is that you could do it with that kind of grinder, although the spacing and beveling would be incredibly hard still I’m guessing. The other idea I have, just instinctively anyway, is to cut out a semi circle with a file or rotary grinder, and then use a small flexible belt to bevel them (actually, a worksharp sized belt would probably work well).

sumochop360 ... you're not trying to blame him for YOU wearing headphones are you?poor,poor baby!

Radoslaw Jocz Knife bevel jigs, lots for sale or just make one. I made one and helped me alot. I have some for sale as well.

You probably could, but I might try to forge it out a little or upset the steel and then forge it out. 1.25" would give you more steel to work with around the ring. If you have a way to drift the ring, 1" wide should be plenty. I like to use a 1" wrench to make them sometimes, but that is the interior of the box end.

Thanks

DeckDemonS hammer in wood pins first, unglued, then put in real pins after shaping.

Lol, that's exactly what I was thinking. "I went for a rustic look on this blade, challenged myself to make it using an angle grinder".

haha yep

KHRS whats your price range?

The only one I can "afford" right now (by afford I mean what I'm willing to spend on something that's going to be used very rarely in this context and I won't be able to use due to leaving for boot camp) is the $50 generic one from Harbor Freight. This knife (about 6 inch long) and possibly a smaller knife from the cutoff are the only knives I'll be making in the foreseeable future unless I happen upon another "easy" project like this. Basically, something cheap that I'll only use a few times (for now).

Always good to practice on some cheaper stuff than just going right into it. Working on my freehand grinds still after working on blades on and off for the past 6 months. Surely am better than the day i started, but need to keep improving

Roman Tressler 5 seconds off bud. Sorry boutcha

Hum.....to be debated later