Used Peter’s method about a dozen times - on 6 and 7 wire electric fences using 2.5 high tensile wire. Was sceptical that re-tensioning the brace would be difficult - but have never had to re tension a brace yet. Two brace loops tied off this way is certainly working for me and I do like tight fences. Also recommend Peter’s Stayblocks, however I still use timber posts with. Also as much of the country I have farmed is soft deep soils my preference is for the end post to be 9’ ie. 5’ in the ground and 4’ above.

Just in time. Im fencing my property. Gracias amigo from California.

Best channel for real life skills for fence builders

Most of us still fence with stays or timber box assemblies (as opposed to steel posts, etc), so these tutorials are worth their weight in gold. Thank you! 🙏🏼

Great to see you've caught up with Peter! One of the legends of the industry.

A "Knotless easy end assembly" yet he ties two knots?? :-) A handy tutorial none the less. Thanks.

Thanks Tim. Just yesterday I was discussing with my boss about tying off end assemblies. I’m going to give this technique a go 👍🏻

Thanks Tim, tried knotless box end this morning, worked a treat. Had to watch the video a few times to work out what you were doing.

Another fabulous video Tim. Thanks for takng the time.

Great video & Great Tips. I bought a pair of the wire strainers a little while back & they are brilliant. They are a bit different to use to start with, however once I used them a few times they were great. I wouldn’t be without them Keep up the great work Tim & Peter..👍

Absolutely brilliant, Cheers.

that is a very good tip. and hi from scotland

Looks like a lot less physical effort there Mr. Thompson. I like knotting the way you do in your videos. I try to make each knot closer to how you do it. When making a dozen knots a day... it makes the time go by faster. 😁

life saver

Did you get a new camera?? The vids look amazing!! Crisp and clear!!

Probably a silly question, how is the tension held on the strainer wire after you cut the wire at the back of the wire strainer? I’m not sure if it’s the way he is overlapping the wires and where did the loose end come from that he tied off second? My way of thinking would be that the loose end would have been in the wire strainer. Not knit-picking, I genuinely want to understand how his technique works. Thanks for the video and info Tim.

👍👍👍

The knotless method can't be used on a corner assembly. I have a fence repair job that is due to a car knocking over 4 line posts and a brace post. The corner post is still there but has a slight lean. This is a field fence that has 13 high tensile horizontal wires. I was intrigued by the comment in the video that the theoretical way to brace is to have 1 loop for every 2 high tensile wires of the fence. This would seem to indicate that I needed 6 loops. There was also a mention that maybe 3 loops is the maximum that is needed? This is kind of confusing because every brace I see on KZfaq is using two loops of wire. The previous fence contractor used 4 loops of wire. The loops were twisted together. I can see the advantage of twisting all loops at once because there is no tugging on the wire to get all the slack out that would be needed with for example a ratchet strainer that is attached to the last loop. Havinig more than 2 loops or needing more than 2 loops seems to be an undiscussed topic for all the fence straining videos. The idea here seems to be sharing the strain on the end post with the brace post. They both are the same size so it looks like the idea would be to share the load equally. A 13 high tensile field wire fence could possibly have thousands of pounds of strain on it and it would make sense that more than 4 wires would be needed that are in a 2 loop brace.

i would have thought the easier way would be to use a piece of timber on the diagonal using gal brackets (the ideal brackets for this purpose may not have been invented yet) and tek screws. i could probably use tek screws through hoop iron twisted around the timber to secure it. i hate staples. i'd have used big fat tek screws for the initial wiring around then used those nifty wire stays and tek screws like ive seen on other tim thompson videos.

Newbie here. Enjoy your knowledgable videos. It’s not quite clear for me, I’m trying to get what’s happening in this vid… so you strain the wire… then does the hammered staple hold that strain after you cut the wire to do your end knots?? cheers

Hi Tim, I followed this end assembly and it worked great. Unfortunately we have new fencing sections with two gal stays in 90' degree corners with stay plates supporting our driven gal strainer along each direction of fence . When it was strained it pulled over in the internal direction between the two stays, all the hinge and our top, mid and bottom wires went loose. Can you advise why you believe this has occured.. Glenn

Tim, could you add your links, please? Thanks!

Can the wire be tied at the top of the post

How do you maintain tension over time?

How does it stay tight after he cuts it loose from the strainers?

I 'm a bit slow , so help me out please . He started with the end of the wire at the spinner . Where did that end go ? At 2.25 in the video he's poking the end somewhere obscured by the grass , where is it going ? Is it tied off ? Next he picks up the wire and begins to loop it around the posts , strains the wire , then cuts it . Why doesn't the wire go slack ? It doesn't appear to be tied anywhere at this point , just held in place with loose staples . I'm mystified !

Not easy to tighten up the strut wire after time when it goes loose.

Oh hate when they leave small pieces of fencing wire out in the field.

isnt that knot?

I wouldn't say knotless, you're now tying 2 knots instead of one, and knocking in more than 2 staples to achieve the same outcome. As the saying goes, more than one way to skin a cat.

Love it , but l think you need to draw a picture for me.