Even 10 years later your awesome video Is still helping out! Good explanation. Very well done thank you

I'm sure few people care, but I found a 1988 Buick Lesabre with 57k miles and completely rust free recently and bought it. Not sure how long I'll keep it but it's nice to have the spirit of my old car back again for the moment!

I sold the vehicle back in 2016. It ran like a top with 260k miles the day I sold it despite the body rusting away beneath it. None of the vehicles I own today run as smoothly despite having far fewer miles/years. It was time to move on but I still miss it.

Nice video. When installing CKP on a 1995 Buick LeSabre a few small tips. 1. When putting in the puller bolts, depending if you rented the puller from AutoZone etc. can be a little tricky. The easy way is to press in and clockwise until you find the opening, then press in and do a turn or two counter clockwise. Then resume threading bold in. 2. Make sure the balancer is all the way in. It may have a type of ridge, where you think it is completely on, but has more to go. Verify that the belt lines up with other pullys. 3. Even though the 1995 is a series I 3800, the CKP sensor and bracket are one piece. So no alignment of sensor is needed. Also, no computer relearn procedure is needed.

Very professional video. Parts were well lit up, you didn't stand in front of what you were talking about, the explanation was to the point and there was no annoying music.

great tutorial video on how its done, explained very well and look forward to more of your mechanical knowledge in future vids,

Awesome video and great explanation I ever seen on youtube, for car repair! Indeed it has the best camera position all the time. Thank you very much and God be with you bro! :)

Best tutorial on this job I've seen. No BS, great info, well said. Thanks.

Thoroughly enjoyed your how to video, Sir, thanks for posting. I'll be doing this Crank Sensor replacement job on a 94 Ciera 3.1 liter. 109K miles. It's one of the last two sensors to replace ( the other is the 3x crankshaft position sensor that's located on the firewall side of the motor just up from the oil drain plug area a few inches), as I've replaced everything else I could think of that could cause these symptoms and then some. Your clear and concise description of what to do is greatly appreciated! Many thanks!

Thank you very much for posting this video, I was able to fix my 1992 buick regal 3.8 CPS :)

Great video and one of the more comprehensive CPS videos out there. Thanks to your video I was able to save some cash doing it DIY style.

Thank you for the amazing video!!! Man that special tool makes all the difference in the world. I bought one and now can get the job done Johnny on the spot with know double check and no worries. Get one you will not regret it. I tried it your way before this video back in 2017. Again thanks for the video Bravo………

I've watched both of your videos on this issue , I'll try cleaning it first. My sister will be happy if it works. Thanks 👍

Cool !!! Thank you......I'll be working on my 92 Pontiac Bonneville tomorrow...........Bobby

amazing video. I get frustrated working on cars sometimes and I've never tried to record it. I'd break my phone and burn my car down if I tried. Really really good thanks for this!

I have a 92 century with the 3.3 that has been very hard to start for a while now and the other day it died while driving down the road, it had been running for about 20 min before this. After cranking on it a handful of times it started and ran for about 2 min and died again, third time was the charm it wouldn't restart so I checked the fuel pressure and it rang in at a rock solid 45 psi with no bleed off so next I checked the spark plugs for spark and found nothing. Iv'e never worked on one of these little puppies and wanted a little more help than what the Haynes offered, I can't tell you how much I enjoyed your video and thank you for your time and trouble!

Standing ovation! Very helpful! This got my husband over the hump! Thank you for simply taking the time to help others!

Another great video! Only thing to offer would be to add a note in the video to disable the ignition coil if you are going to use the starter to remove the balancer bolt. I've always done that with the belt still connected and holding the engine back with a pry bar through an accessory like the power steering pump. Just a thought.

Well done, well explained,thanks for taking the time to make the video, big help.

Wow. You're a natural. VERY intelligent young man! Thanks for your efforts and information. Much appreciated!

I'm having an intermittent stalling issue with a 2000 Buick Lesabre. Not throwing any codes or check engine light. Going to give this repair a go. Thanks for great lighting, explanation and narration.

This video is an excellent tutorial on how to change the early crankshaft position sensor (a.k.a. CKP). These early CKP sensors are HELL because of the adjustable nature of them. Get the CKP in the wrong position and the reluctor rings will destroy the new sensor and damage the harmonic balancer - ask me how I know this - it CAN damage the harmonic balancer! The 1996 and up 3800 Series II CKP sensor is MUCH easier to replace as there is no side-to-side adjustment to clear the reluctor rings of the harmonic balancer. I changed mine earlier this year on my 97 LeSabre after buying the $15 Lisle adapter kit for my existing HB puller kit. Piece of cake. Thanks Knurlgnar, after just destroying a new CKP sensor and the HB on my Mom's '92 3800, I feel confident again now that I know how to SEE the position of the reluctor rings in relation to the CKP sensor gaps. I gave up earlier in disgust not knowing how to do it. Off to Autozone to get a new HB and another CKP sensor.

Excellent, excellent, excellent. you articulate so well and logical. sound like an engineer

G R E A T job. Excellent video with clear step-by-step explanation (mine is a '94 Regal). Kudos K24. Many thanks.

great video from a learning mechanic thats broke-a s s poor and with an old commodore VS...thanks heaps

Excellent communication skills explaining the steps. Video was very helpful, thank you for taking the time to do it.

Great video and commentary my man...short to the point and hopefully this will help me get back on the road...!!!

Thanks for such awesome accurate video. We used similar tools as yourself, however our breaker bar broke on 3rd try. No luck initially with impact wrench. We then put a small plumbers torch on the bolt taking care not to heat anything but the bolt for a few minutes, got it hot, put the impact wrench on the bolt and off it came easily. You are right, bloody bolt almost beat us! Anyway, rest of job piece o cake. Thanks again for such detailed info - job well done!

I just used the breaker bar method for removal. Worked great.

The MOST concise complete video with great info. Hands down the winner! Thank you. Subscribed

2001 model GM Holden Commodore VX series 1 Australian. ,I have an engine service light that comes on, OBD2 Scan gave me multi gear box (auto) errors, I believed this to be jerking and vibration at drive off also through gear change, had gear box replaced from a reck, now the service light comes back with crank sensor fault, it's a rear wheel drive car so this job should be a little easier, really thank you for your time to go out and show your work ...cheers P.S. this car has done 300,000kms ..:) 1/4 million miles

Awesome you made it look so easy. Thanks for sharing.

Not sure if it's in the comments I read a lot of them, anyway on the back of the mount fork on a series 1 there is an align pin hole that goes thru to the plastic housing of the sensor that gets it as close as you really need without the shuffle on and off. Always check it regardless but hopefully that helps someone in need to not be scared. There really isn't a video like this for those but that's the big change for newer models I'm not sure if this one has it. Saved me hours of fiddle. Thanks for the great vid.

Thank you That seems pretty close to my 3.3, the same steps should work. Now to get a puller.... later

Thank you for posting this video. I just finished with my 1996 Camaro. It took me a while to bust the balancer bot on a front mount. I put a breaker bar on it with a pipe on it pushing down. Although it took me a few hours it was well worth it. Thanks again!!

awesome video, I have a 2000 buick lesabre that won't start. No rpm on scanner when cranking. Guess I'll be following your instructions to replace my sensor.

boy! I wish I had seen the vid before I replaced mine. I spent way to much time on this and I have the manufactures shop manual for all the help it wasn't!!

Really enjoyed your vid. My crank pulley I had to rent a different puller set up but I would've been lost wo your vid. I was about to replace the sensor but I'm not able to turn the engine to check if the teeth are in position 360° so I'll putting on the new crank pulley, cleaning the old sensor and hoping for the best!

One trick to help with re-alignment is to mark/measure the old sensor before you take it out. The new one should line up the same.

Thanks so much, your video was awesome and so are you!

Very good detail I wish we had the same car because you doe really good explaining

I probably need to replace crank position sensor my 1995 Buick Regal. Thanks for sharing the video.

Thanks for the vid. friend. Last time I removed a harmonic balancer was on a '71 fury with a 360 in 1989. Very helpful! Peace!

This is a great commercial for Harbor Freight Tools ***lol***. Great video!!

Thank you so much for the information. and your time in putting this video together.

thanks this is really what I needed to see.....

Many thanks for sharing Video was most helpful during repair .. Best part was your suggestion to insert power bar and bump the Starter to break loose the Harmonic LARGE center Bolt .... CAUTION : Don't hold the Power bar by hand rather place it against vehicle I temporarily with some Electrical Wire Secured so my Hands are Out of harms way :o)

Thanks for the upload. I'm actually working on the same 90' Olds Royale and the rubber in my damper exploded

Good video not trying to tell you what to do it's just how I do things. I got a mat at AutoZone by Wells they gave it to me. It troubleshoots for crank position sensor, map sensor and other things on a vehicle. There's probably something like that online though. I remember on the GM cars of that year you can use the little coin or jump the wires over with a paperclip to count the flashes and look it up. But that doesn't always tell you what's wrong. One thing I always use and it keeps the bolts from getting loose and rusted is blue Loctite. I use it on the harmonic balancer Bolt and a lot of bolts because if things back off the bolt that is it can ruin things. And a balancer bolt it could take the threads out and you need a thread repair kit if you can get the threads restarted to take a bolt. If you can get a thread repair kit without breaking the bank. Also with blue Loctite you don't have to go as tight it's sort of like using Super Glue and that blue Loctite sets up like super glue. The blue Loctite can be removed the red Loctite you have to use heat and other methods to get it off.

i like very much how your hood opens!! is that a trick you did, never seen one open like that!! thank you much!!!

autozone has a kit called a retrofit kit for the 3800 engines to pull the balancer b

putting the nut on the outside of the bolt so it doesn't pull through was brilliant.

clear and concisely explained, very help thanks alot. i'm no mechanic, what should i expect to pay for this job? Thanks again.

This was a complaint before the engine I am replacing the crankshaft on now shit out. The person noticed random incorrect tach readings and started to stall before spinning a bearing. I bought the car with the idea of rebuilding the engine and wondered if components like this were reusable. Since the complaint was similar I will be replacing this part as well. Thanks for the in depth description of this issue. Most of us would have looked towards the top end for a stalling issue first and this saves some time. Although my engine is completely out of the car and apart this bad boy will be replaced just because of that. The cam sensor seems good so I am reusing that one since it's easy to get to as well. 89 Bonnie will ride again when I am done and I only paid 200 for it so I can afford to rebuild the engine yay for me.

What a great video!

The thread size of the bolts that thread into the balancer are size 7 mm X 1.0 in-case you need to tap them out to be able to get the tiny bolts started! I had to insert the tap and hit it with a hammer on two of the three holes just to be able to get the tap started enough to clean out the threads. the bolts went in like a dream after that.

This video is close to the 3.3 thanks it will help

Great video. My car would not start and I found that my coil pack had a crack due to hitting a deer. I was able to start the car with the broken coil pack with a rough idle. (I didn't know the pack was broken at that time) I replaced the coil pack and I still have a very rough idle thou the car starts right up. Replaced all spark plugs and same problem. Car seems to run a lot smoother at about 2000-2500 RPM. I have 210,00 MI. To my knowledge the CPS is original or at lest hasn't been changed in the last 18 years. Also I ran OBD code and came up with 41. Which says: cylinder select error OR cam sensor circuit. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

if your interested, heres an update..the hard part was easy..the easiest parts were a pain..balancer came off just slid right off and on..lining up the sensor went perfect..the easiest part took like 20 minutes..was like someone super glued the connection..getting it disconnected without breaking it was difficult but done. new belt was a pain cause it had conformed to the shape it was in while it was in its sleeve..but got it on..car cranked and ran smooth as silk..for exactly 23 minutes and and stalled out as if shutting the key off...going to try the ICM..i noticed it was red hot..car has 2 cooling fans on the radiator..a big one on the drivers side and a small one on the passenger side..i have never seen the small one come on..and the large one only comes on when i turn on the ac(which seems to have its own issue)..wouldn't the small fan help keep the ICM cool?..and how do i know which ICM to buy...there seems to be a few options

Very Well presented. No needless babble or music. It would have been nice to know if it started and the Tach was OK with all this.

I have an 1987 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale Sedan with this engine, it doesn't need a whole lot to keep it moving as far as I know, but I'd like to do some tune ups on it at some point, seeing it's my daily.

So I just replaced this part on the same engine in a 94 park ave, and after putting everything back on, and turning it over, the car will crank but not start and the serpentine is coming off of the balancer every time...when you put it back on was there something specific in the way you line it up? The replacement cps on mine is molded so there was no need to align the grooves

we have a 1989 bonneville, That run really rough and won't start when warmed up..We have to let it sit for a good hour then it will start and run fine. It runs great on colder day and rough on warmer days, We have no check engine light. Could it be this? Or the control module..

Great video

Great vid thanks!

Excellent demonstration with great camera work and angles. Not sure how completely this applies to my 3800 Series II SC Buick Riviera (other than the second belt for the supercharger) but it gives me a good idea. Plus I can kill two birds with one stone as I need to replace both the harmonic balancer and the CPS. Great vid. Thanks,

This CPS seems a common problem on GM vehicles. The job looks to be more of a PITA physically than technically. I once had a 99 Buick with the series II. Sometimes after warm-up and when doing a hard acceleration, the engine would stall and shake pretty bad. Never threw a CEL or anything but does that sound like a CPS starting to go bad?

Awesome video! I can do my 1999 buick regal thanks

Here's a handy tip, when removing the balancer best to replace the crankshaft front seal to.

Cheers, handy as video, also makes me so happy mines a north-south rwd car haha way easier to get to the pulleys

Just had bad CPS on dodge 4.7L. It didn't stall, but bucked and chugged, especially when you pulled out into traffic and really needed it to accelerate. :-o

I had this issue on a 3.8 like yours. Went through a bunch of different parts trying to figure it out but in the end it turned out to be carbon deposits building up in the intake manifold from the emissions system.

thank you

bro you fix everything wrong with my car keep the fucking work up man!!!!

I have a v6 3800 1992 Buick Regal, is this the same process to change my crankshaft position sensor?

I also had to run a 1/4 x28 tap thru the puller holes to clean them out and yeah the bolts I started with were way too short.

What a good video I have a buick regal 95 with the problem you said I use it for a while and if I turn it off it no longer turns on after an hour and it has no spark tomorrow I will change the crankshaft sensor and let you know if the problem is solved thanks

Great video!! watched 10 other ones and this is the best by far! Quick question, did your RPM tachometer work again after you replaced the sensor? My symptoms are the exact same as yours, my rpm gauge even stopped working a few months back but my car didn't start dieing till the other week.

My auto zone kit didn’t work because the bolts were the wrong size? What are the correct bolts to buy for the 98 Buick LeSabre harmonic balancer? I got the big bolt out using the breaker bar and 24mm socket trick with the starter? Again I just need to know the size bolts for the harmonic balancer using a puller?? Appreciate any info

I've replaced the fuel tank, sending unit, and pump, the engine has been running since that. This time it's just no spark. I bought a new ignition module and coils, no spark. But according to the troubleshooting guide, I've confirmed power from the ECM with key on, step 1, step 2 check was also good regarding 5vdc to crank sensor, o btw new cam shaft sensor before I replaced the fuel tank. And I've changed the wiring harness to the ignition module, I ohm'd out the connectors before I put it on too.

I have this same car- how do you get the plastic connection off the knock sensor? My crank sensor is good but knock sensor bad. Need to replace it but can't get the plastic connection off of it where the wire plugs into

I've been looking for the location of the crankshaft position sensor in my 2007 ford escape. 2wheel drive, 3.0 engine

i have an 04 impala ss and have the 6volts on off on the 18x side of the sensor, but constant 6v on the 3x side. Have you ran into this? My condition is no fire. Ran fine, I shut it down, and no restart

As a note: the 3800 engine on a 1989 Buick Reatta (probably other models and similar years) should NOT require a 'puller' for the harmonic balancer... As soon as the bolt is off, the balancer will just easily slide off... (there are not even any bolt holes to mount the puller -- If it were to be 'stuck-on' for some reason, all bets are off without destroying the balancer).... There is also no 'dust shield' on my Buick -- or is it actually a shield designed to protect sensor and teeth from a break in the drive belt? (This is, in fact, what happened to the crank sensor; the drive belt split and clobbered the sensor, breaking off one of the lobes, and even slightly bending the reluctor teeth)

autozone has a kit called a retrofit kit for the 3800 engines to pull the balancer

Do you remember what size the 3 bolts were for the balancer puller to fit it?

Great video, Thanks, but what was the scare noise @ 20:26 (27 to be more exact) ?

I have a 2002 Buick Regal LS with a 3800 Motor. It start fine when its cold but after driving, its hard to get it started. Any ideas? Do you think its the crank position sensor?

Great video I have a 2001 Park Ave ultra runs good dosnt stall but 70 mph Ican feel it misfiring. Sometimes the tacmeter needle will bounce and then drop to 0. I got the 0300 code (misfire) couple evap codes 440,449 and the 336 code csps and to top off that the 1811 code which is a trans code which means there is a lag in the shifting. Think maybe the sensor could cause these problems? Car ran great till the service engine light came on. But did notice a little lag in the tranny though.

Awesome video, very well explained and thorough. Thanks so much for taking the time to post.

Six marks on the bolt head is grade 8, 3 marks (slashes) on the head of the bolt is grade 5.

Question I have a 1986 Oldsmobile 98 v6 and I just took my crank sensor without removing my harmony balance. Could that cause my car not to start. Thank you

Do you remember what size and pitch the bolts that thread into the balancer are?

does it need to be a specific brand i bought 1 off amazon and somehow it skimmed inbetween the fins didnt hit eh fins but scrapped inbetween them whichs i find odd since i cant bolt it in any further,

Hi, I need help!!! I have a 2002 Touring Edition PT Cruiser 2.4 it cranks but won't start, I changed the Cam sensor still nothing. I've decided to change the crank sensor but to my surprise is not located behind or below the starter and I cannot find it. Do you have any idea where this sensor could be? I just ordered the ignition coil and today I changed the spark plugs and I could hear the fuel pump when I'm about to start the engine, all I need is to find the crank sensor and hopefully once I put it back together it'll start. If u can tell me where this sensor could be I'd appreciated. Thanks for ur time!

Here in Australia, where that 3800 engine is used in our base model Commodore, the crank angle sensors are prone to dying in the arse as shown in this video - the culprit is often a leaking water pump - is that a problem for you guys? Note, Commodores are rear wheel drive, north south engine orientation, the whole job can be done on the floor from above.

THANKYOU

I have a 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo SS with the 3.8 3800 Series 2 engine and it starts but after I have driven it and try to start it again it will crank but will not start. The dealer replaced the ignition control module wire connecter but that did not resolve the issue. any ideas?

My pullers come with thick washers so the bolt heads don't pull through. My 1995 lumina van is making a weird lurch upon starting and when turning it off, the tensioner moves a lot when doing both of these, its pully is new. While running it starts in making this clitty, clattity noise that quietens down slightly when the a/c compressor is engaged and then gets louder when it turns off. I replaced the powersteering pump and with belt off the pullies spin free enough except for the crankshaft pully which seems to make a bit of a bell sound when I try to move it one way and the other, seems to be location sound is coming from when running. Other than this the van runs fine with none of symptoms listed for crankshaft positioning sensor, so not sure what it could be, any ideas.

If your having problems stalling when hot or rough idle check ignition Module that is one part most people forget to check