Thanks a lot!!! The only difference with out of vehicle is that it just shows you the menu for battery test only; the same battery test done in the video. Nothing is different at all. It removes the cranking and charging since it won't have access to the starter and alternator respectively.

Hi, there is another video by another person that did the out of vehicle. If you can't find, you to Amazon and find this product. Scroll through the pictures and there is a video of a mechanic . In hope this helps you 🙂

Thanks a lot!!!!

Thanks!

That's the way! I'm always armed with this when buying a battery. If you don't already, also explore charging the battery on a schedule out of the car. It will last much longer.

Thanks for the compliment!

Great. Glad I could be of help.

Much appreciated!

I was using this KW208 tester to figure out why my jump pack was working so poorly and it was able to easily determine the problem with mainly due to the on/off switch that this jump pack from harbor freight used. When testing by clipping on to the switch feed input versus the switch output I could see a huge difference in the CCA measurement. The nice thing with this is that it uses very little current during the test so it doesn't drain out the battery as I was repeatedly trying the different comparison load tests. As a result of the tests I decided to just connect the output cables directly instead of going through the switch and it works much better now. Using the tester I also was able to easily determine that the fairly large drop was due to the cables themselves, but there is no good way to fix that without cutting short or getting beefier cables than the ones harbor freight used on the Centech jump pack. This little tester is proving pretty invaluable, especially for the price that Walmart has it for 😉

Thanks for sharing this!

Good to know it's checking the boxes with your independent tests!

@@DIYAutoworksNG It was nice to see that the principle behind the tester was sound. I was actually thinking about using an add on for adding a separate wire connection to the sense line with a secondary clip to allow the proper connection to be made more easily, in case the terminal is too fat for the tester to handle. All that needs to be done is use a metal tab between the serrated jaw and the terminal, insulating it from contact with the terminal, and have a wire connected from the tab to a second clamp for attaching to the terminal separately. Should be easy enough to do -

Sounds good!

Many thanks!

Many thanks!

You are welcome!

Lol. I know banggood but have not procured from there before.

I received the konnwei unit a few days ago and am impressed with it using it on the two cars we have. On the cranking test, do you know what the min and max voltage figures refer to? I wonder if that’s a set figure, or relating to the battery being tested. I thought usually on a cranking test there would be just one voltage result, not two? Ive read the little instruction book and it doesn’t mention it. Great piece of kit 😀

Congrats on your acquisition. Also for verifying Banggood. 😄 The 2 voltages reflect the min & max voltage outputs the battery was able to deliver while the starter was pulling a load on the battery to start the car. The minimum value is important because below a certain value, it means the battery is either no good or that the starter is faulty and pulling an abnormally high load from the battery.

Thanks a lot mate! Yea. Nice piece of kit. Incidentally, used it 2 days ago when my neighbour called me to help check their car battery.

Thanks!

Good choice 👌🏼. Mine still works well.

You're welcome!

Thanks! Lucky you on the blue screen. 😂

Thanks!

Happy you found it useful! Thanks for sharing.

You're welcome!

You're welcome!

Thanks!

Thanks! Don't like the green screen too, but not enough to overlook how effective it is. Happy with this purchase.

The one I got has a white backlight, I guess they were changed at some point. It's a bit brighter than needed when working at night, but it can serve as a flashlight if needed 😎

Nice! I thought I was ordering the white one, only for it to show up green😅

@@DIYAutoworksNG The green is actually the latest version apparently, because your serial number is higher than the one I got with the white flashlight screen 😎 Same version numbers though.

I like the flash light😀

Thanks for the compliment!

Thanks!

Thanks

Many thanks!

You're welcome

Pleasure.

Many thanks!

Many thanks!

You're welcome. Thanks!

Thanks!

You're welcome!

You're welcome!

Thanks for the compliment! Yep. Ignition should be off for the battery test.

@@DIYAutoworksNG Thank you!

The test involves testing different components of the alternator, rectifier, voltage regulator, etc. Testing is done before (idle) and during the 2500RPMs.

@@DIYAutoworksNG thanks for the clarification!

It seems like the enter button is supposed to be pushed while the engine is revving for 10 seconds, but in all the videos I've seen, it's pushed after it returns to idle, and it didn't seem to affect the results.

@@wingerrrrrrrrr interesting. I think it should be pressed while it is revving. But for this you need two persons.

Yes, or that it doesn't have good contact with the terminals.

@@DIYAutoworksNG thanks reply back so quickly

You're welcome!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Seems you didn't remove surface charge before running the test, or did you?

@@DIYAutoworksNG I tested the battery 15 hrs after last driving. Surface charge accounts for only 1% of the voltage. My voltage was lower. Up to 12.36 v with a voltmeter after the car went “ to sleep” . Maybe your resistance was high and that is why it stated REPLACE even with a voltage of 12.8 ( which is very high, almost too high) . It was odd to see a CCA result of 1150 when the battery was rated at 760CCA even if there was a surface charge . Anyway thanks for the replies. It is a simple device and maybe just an anomaly. Did not have any battery problems before testing . I was just wondering what the battery condition of all my cars were since they are getting older. The konnwei was only sale for $20 at Amazon.

If you don't turn on the headlights for 10 seconds to clear surface charge when prompted by the tool, your readings will be off. However, 15 hrs after driving should be enough to clear surface charge. The replace recommendation is based on internal resistance I believe, a sulfated battery may still have a high voltage but the CCA will be low.

The internal resistance of the battery is likely quite high. The foxsur pulse repair will do the battery good and improve the SOH (may be slight), however, I have noticed that once the kw208 says replace, I haven't been able to get it to 'unsay' it by repairing the battery lol. Take note, this just means that the battery failed a certain threshold. When I got a failed test, I still used the battery for several months before it started giving symptoms that could get you stranded.

​@@DIYAutoworksNG Thanks for the feedback. Yes, I think that I will continue with the batter for the time being and just keep a close eye on its performance. I may use the pulse repair feature further down the line too but it's a case of monitoring things for the time being. I have a Varta F17 car battery and it has never failed to start the car so far so fingers crossed and thank you once again.

Good. Only thing I'd suggest is doing the pulse repair sooner than later. The longer a battery sits stratified, the harder the lead crystals get, and more difficult repair becomes.

​@@DIYAutoworksNGThanks for another great tip. I'll hopefully get the battery out of the car and get it on pulse repair asap.🙏🏾

What's the state of charge? Resistance of less than 10 Ohm is good.

I don't think this information is stated in the manual but should follow the pretty standard route of applying a load to the battery and measuring the current.

@@DIYAutoworksNG curious what kind of load is applied through those thin test leads. Must be a very transient load, I'll have to put a current probe on it to see when I get one to test out.

Nice plan!

Got one of these and ran a test on it to see what it's doing. The unit applies a 1.5A load in a 250Hz square wave for a duration of 400ms to do the test. The cable clamp is set up in a 4 wire configuration so the voltage at the battery can be more accurately measured for its response to the 1.5A current. Calculation of the battery resistance is based on how much the voltage drops with the load current applied compared to the no load portion in the test.

Nice analysis. Thanks for sharing!

Yes.

@@DIYAutoworksNG I think mine is defective. It won't power on.

The tester will work either way. If the battery is not properly charged, it will tell you to charge and retest.

@@DIYAutoworksNG Owh... Okay2... Thanks Ya Boss... :)

👌🏼👍🏼

It actually is better to allow the battery to sit for a while rather than test it right after you charge it. The numbers are counterintuitively lower if you test it right after you take it off the charger.

I agree. Especially if testing out of vehicle. If testing in vehicle, the tool usually prompts to turn on the headlights to clear surface charge.

I followed the procedure per the instructions on the tool. It tells you to raise and hold the RPM before pressing ENTER.

I haven't tried that.

It should on the regular 12v AGM XS power batteries. You'll just need to select AGM as battery type as well as the rest of the parameters as appropriate.

Ouch. The device is quite accurate. Time to part with some cash. I have tried repeatedly to see if I could charge any battery that it rated "replace" back to "Good Battery", using repair mode on a charger, no success to date. On the bright side, also use the device when you go to buy a new battery. You'll be surprised at what you'd find.

@@DIYAutoworksNG I know rii, tyme to spend more money 🤷🏾🤣

????

Thanks a lot. While you are correct that the cranking test in a way, is a test on the battery's performance, this tool's cranking test does test the starter motor. Battery voltage while cranking is an indication of starter function. See excerpt from the manual of the KW208 tool: "Cranking test helps you analyze the starting motor including cranking voltage and the cranking time to check the starting motor works properly or not" This independent resource also backs this up: constructionmanuals.tpub.com/14050/css/Cranking-Voltage-Test-92.htm

I tested mine it says “good recharge “ what does this mean my battery is no good ? because I’m having issues with my car it will start in the morning then if I go shopping it will not start. Battery is strong all lights work etc then after 10 tries or so my car will start! what could be the problem ? i did a crank test and it said “ charging high “ any help would be appreciated since i’m tight on money

@CHB_98 "Good Recharge" means you have a good battery that is low on charge. That's understandable from the multiple cranks you said it requires to start the car. Was it a crank or charging test you did next? Either way, hard starting can be a bunch of things; vacuum leaks, stuck pcv valve, dirty MAF sensor, throttle body, defective cold start switch (Toyota) and many more. What car is it?

@@DIYAutoworksNG hi it’s a 09 gmc acadia , I did a cranking test and it said normal , I have recharged the battery hope the problem goes away I was thinking it maybe the starter ?

Ideally less than 5 Ohm. 5 - 10 Ohm is also acceptable.

Depends on the test your running. It's all explained in the video.