Thanks 👍

@@AJJAMStudios your welcome

Awesome, thank you!

Thanks. Welcome to the channel 😎👍

Awesome. I'm glad you've found a car that works for you. There are so many out there to choose from, one never really knows if they've chosen the right car until it's too late. Thanks for the comment. AJ

Thank you😎👍

Thanks and welcome😎👍

It's a simple one I found on Ebay a year ago; just search Kraton wheelie bar on Ebay and they should pop up right away. I just had this one laying around in the toolbox. Cody needed one until he could get a Tbone Racing one. With the RPM wing mounts that aluminum one is too hard on the whole rear situation. I figured it would work in the short term. I had the same one on my Talion 6s and it shredded the mounts. I have to admit, I earned it though. Thanks for asking. AJ

Those adjustment screws allow you to set the ride height of the vehicle. Thanks for asking 😎👍

Thank you. The EXB center brace setup was installed for two reasons, One: we needed the front brace, and Two: the HR brace was lighter and less stout. The EXB braces are simply heavier and built stronger. Thanks for commenting. AJ

The inland northwest Washington State.

Available on Ebay: Search "Metric Size HEX Driver Bits for RC Cars (1.5mm 2.0mm 2.5mm 3.0mm) Harden Steel"

@@AJJAMStudios thanks

I change out the arms to RPM and that helps a lot. Upsizing the screws is another way to go but the arms are still going to be an issue when you land on them. We’ve actually ripped a diff housing open landing on the stock ones. I hope this helps.

@AJJAMStudios Cheers, Mate. That really helps a lot. I'll grab the RPM ones, and I'm trying to source where you got that sweet Wheel Bar. Thanks so much for answering, I know you're a busy bloke 👍😁

Yes 😎👍

We have videos out for both rigs. The layout is similar for both, and the EXB's are built tougher. Check out the vids and see for yourself. Thanks. 😎👍

@@AJJAMStudios thank's bro

Good. We lost a rear differential a while back but other than that all good. 👍

Good question. The arms are really stout and they routinely break other components within the car itself. I find the more flexible ones to have a better durability rating. I've tested them thoroughly and have found the flexible ones to be superior. That's just my opinion however. Thanks for asking. AJ

@@AJJAMStudios how about the ends I know for fact those are better. I noticed that u didn’t reattach them to the new rpm arms??

I haven't needed to yet. The RPM arms seem to hold up fine. Plus, they do not attach the same way as they do for the ones they are intended for. 😎👍

@@AJJAMStudios thanks for info. I guess RPM need to up the process to new Arrma Version’s V5

I'm sure it will come in time. Thanks for commenting. AJ

I understand your confusion. The EXB brace is part of a set. Since Cody needed the front brace anyway, he picked up the entire center brace set. The HR brace we had on the car was temporary until he could get his own components for the build. The HR brace was not his to keep. Still, if you look the two over, the EXB brace is a thicker component and sturdier overall. Cody, being cautious and new to the hobby, will not push his rig hard enough to even test this brace set to its capacity. I thank you for asking. AJ

@@AJJAMStudios Hey Aj, I just wanted to thank you for making a particular video that no one else seems to of done before and I was thinking maybe you could do another video on the series so people can refer to it. The video I’m talking about is the Kraton EXB diff vid where you go in to detail about how the shims go inside the cup and what order. I’ve torn my diffs down many a time but I decided it was time to go through them again and replace them in there entirety. Problem was I was going to do 1 at a time but I ran into problems when I discovered 2 diffs had either a snapped pin or a pin that was basically welded in there. I had to cut both diffs open with a dremmel and remove the pins once the diff cups were in bits. My problem was I didn’t think ahead and take pics or write down what shim goes where or in what diff. Your video of the diff build starting at the o-ring and then putting the shims in saved my bacon! There’s literally no vids (that I could find) that show you where, if you have all 3 diffs torn down and a big pile of shims where they go when you put the diffs back together and the Arrma instruction manual for the Kraton EXB is so complicated to follow it’s almost useless! I think you should carry on with your diff vid and make a series of how to vids when people are starting from the ground up and they have done the same as me and ended up with a pile of sun gears, shims, cups, o-rings, etc etc and especially for the center diff. I know from experience that tearing down a diff and rebuilding it from ground up is easy but if you get in a situation like I’ve gotten myself into with everything from all diffs in a pile together, you confuse yourself. I was extremely stupid to tear down all the diffs at the same time and not put things in order, I simply took them apart washed everything and put it all together in a tray to dry off. So in essence what I’m suggesting is to add to your diff rebuild vid but add another one for the center diff and so on and so forth so people can refer to it. I’ve been in the hobby 35 + years and it’s the first time I’ve gotten so confused I’ve had to stop and thought Bollox I’ve really cocked up here! I hope you understand why I’m suggesting this and thanks again for making the vid that’s saved stressing over what goes where! And on the brace vid, I wasn’t criticizing I was simply confused as to why you would swap out a better designed brace for the EXB one where the screw can get stuck in after a hard impact Anyway thanks for the video, really appreciate your dedication to the hobby and helping out others but please think about doing more vids on diff builds as there easier to follow than the instructions🤯🤯🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤞🤞👍👍👍👍💪💪💪👊👊😎😎💥

bro sameeeeeee but mine was an outcast v5 with a max 8 v2 (sensored) so alittle more spicy... but now ive just converted it into a kraton v5 so im hoping i dont need to order all these rpms, new pins and new sway bars lol

@@moneyneeded9912 everything I have broken was both front and rear diffs, wing mount and bent shock towers and now a bent chassis. Upgraded both diffs to exb and have sent even harder with no issues. Rpm heavy duty wing mount is great. Then I bent the chassis and am replacing it with a Mojave chassis to make it a kraton XL.

@@uninvestigated hmm the only thing I broke was a rear shock tower (completely bent) and a wing mount like you said. If I brake another wing mount I'm definitely getting a rpm one. With the shock tower's I found front and back for £9.99 (original). I also bent a chassis but that was my fault 😂😂 concrete haha anyway I'm waiting for my titanium scorched RC one to arrive. That's where I'll get my shock tower's from if they bend again. Then Hopefully nothing else goes lol

@@moneyneeded9912 I haven't broke a shock somehow but all mine are dirt and gravel landing. I did bust a shock mount on my notorious tho. I replaced my bent shock towers with m2c carbon fiber ones and they have held up way better than stock on worse landing.

@@uninvestigated ooo, I was looking at carbon fibre for shock tower's, are they actually up to the job? I've heard people talking crap about them. But I am interested in some scorched RC ones.

Typhon is tougher due to the shorter arms. But picking a favorite is a matter of choice for the driver and what you plan to do with it. I love both. The Typhon for speed, track type running and jumping. Kraton for all out bashing. Both are cool.

@@AJJAMStudios I don't bash like in all these videos no skate parks in my state that I know of . I was thinking of building a tekno mt410.2 with the extended chassis of the eb48.3 a monster truck with super long chassis of 8 scale buggy and the quality of tekno what you think

I think that if that one speaks to you it’s perfect. Techno is a great RC company and parts are readily available. Best of luck. 😎👍

The braces do look a bit lighter than the EXB stuff. 😎👍

Many manufacturers do have weaknesses in their products when it comes to durability. And there are many ways to view the issue. One way of looking at it is: Stronger is better, build tougher arms and be damned to the consequences for the rest of the car. Or Two: added flexibility, which absorbs some of the impact and thus reduces the impact pressure against the other components; like the hinge pin region. Arrma isn't the only one out there who subscribes to the "built tough" mantra. But I get what you're saying...Arrma...Arms...I get it. Thanks for commenting. 😎👍