Thanks for letting me know ;)

Youre welcome ;)

Thanks Martin

Thx Phil, glad you got it sorted. Hope you guys are doing ok with the heat there.

@@rovertasmania7033 We used to live in Perth, WA and have experienced those sort of temps many times so didn't get too excited by it. Normal service now resume however - it's back to grey and miserable. Having almost completed the inlet and exhaust manifold job, I'm now just watching your intercooler maintenance videos as there seems no point in cleaning out a huge amount of oily gunk from the inlet manifold just to have it get blown back in via the intercooler which I suspect will be in an equally oily state (the reason for starting the inlet / exhaust manifold job was to chase down the source of oil, which to my confusion, appeared to leaking down thecside if the engine from the inlet manifold - I couldn't work out why there would be oil there in the first place). After checking on my Defender, it appears the source of the oil is the cyclone filter on the opposite side of the engine - apparently it's a poor design, easily gets clogged and blows excess oil through the hose leading from the cyclone, 'down stream', to the point at which it joins the large plastic hose running from the back of the air filter. This in turn connects to the turbo, ie the oil is entering the turbo and being blown through and on into the intercooler and the inlet manifold rather rather than originating from a failure of the turbo itself. New uprated / improved Allisport cyclone filter on its way in a bid to address the origins of the problem. Thanks again....it was only by pulling everything apart with the assistance provided by your videos that I have been able to make sense of it all.

@@philsorah990 Great diagnosis, now you know how the whole thing works, nothing like having that freedom feeling of knowledge and independence. Thanks again for the post.

Good to know its sorted. Funny that my left side swivel is leaking again. This time ill try the option of cutting the swivel seal at 12oclock to put it in rather than removing the whole hub assembly!

Many thanks

jan mallia azzopardi Thanks for your comment and support.

Thanks Neill, I appreciate your comment.

You're welcome, cheers.

You're welcome Chris. Thx for the post.

Do the exhaust gasket, the manifolds dont usually fail so give that a first go. It will be somewhat obvious if the gasket has failed ;)

I dont put anything on these dry gaskets. Tighten it snug enough, but not to kill it ;)

That should do it! Yes 90 degrees will retain toque but see if you have the room.

+Jarzyna Dont use anything that is costic to the alloy... stick with petrolium products like diesel. Best to use a high pressure hose (like at a car wash) if you dont want to use diesel. Once cleaned, leave to dry completely before re-install as you dont want any water to be sucked into the engine. Also, if you use diesel (or pretolium) ensure you dont have any fumes left, its gotta smell clean.

I would remove anyway as you got an opportunity to clean the manifold and give it all a good look through ;)

Yes, if there is blockage it will reduce air flow, but i never seen one blocked. Most likely its a fuel delivery issue, or air leaking into the fuel line.

Hiya... You'll get issues with any old vehicle obviously. Things rust in place. I found using diesel in a spray bottle helps loosen up bolts, not a magic cure but helps. As for the stubborn one, try this first, the use vice grips if possible. Use heat as a last resort as you're dealing with an alloy head. Best of luck, and yes frustrations will happen. Cheers.

never owned a 200tdi, but its fairly straight forward.

+Roykie22 nz Hiya - its a 1995 with just over 260,000 klm... and still runs like a champ!

@@rovertasmania7033 what about now? Great vid. I am in the middle of doing this on my 96 disco. I couldn't quite bet my manifold as clean as yours, though!

@@supermarinespitfire1 Now its over 310k, going great. Clean is a matter of perspective ;)

Yes that dreaded nut! Gold clip... on the nut? Could be a lock washer to stop the nut from vibrating off. Cant see what else i could be.

No some gold clip around the middle of the turbo. Right where you put your extension bar through the gap. Your turbo doesn’t have it. Mines weird lol. Saw the injector pump diaphragm videos, pretty cool stuff man 👊

@@andrep8479 OK, may be an aftermarket turbo?? From memory you can get to the nut from the bottom, but you got to contort yourself like some Yogo nutter to get to it. Injector pump tweaks are actually easy, just need an EGT gauge before you go modifying the settings.

Yea I see the EGT gauge you set up. One day I’ll get to that, then the low coolant alarm, then the fuel screw on the injector pump n then the diaphragm. You’d definitely get better fuel economy. Mine is at best 6.5 - 7km to the litre and when towing it’s like 5.5km. Yes I say it’s leaking from 2/3 as I could only get a spanner on there and my torquing there definitely ain’t 45 NM (33 foot pound). It was ok for a day then leaked on the 2nd day. You can’t get any kind of leverage with a spanner (unless there’s room for 3 spanners lol) or any exact torquing applications for that matter.

P.S. yes it’s definitely an after market turbo. This turbo even has coolant running through the middle of it. With 2 hose ends.

There was no egr in Australia. Its just a blanking plate. I have the egt gauge there to measure temps, something that is vital if tweaking the pump.

It's a bugger! I used a long extension on a ratchet drive through the small gap.

@@rovertasmania7033 got it 3/8 inch ratchet and a 17mm rather than 15 👀

Yes, fairly thick too.

Rover Tasmania just wondering does it mean anything if there Is thick oil in the intake manifold

@@jameskray4368 ​ James Kray yes, its a possible issue. Need to have the turbo checked to make sure seal hasn't failed. Also check cyclone unit. I would pull the intercooler out and see if its full of oil. A little bit is fine, but too much indicates a turbo issue. If its OK then it may be the cyclone. First thing is to remove it, the intercooler and give them a thorough clean (not with petrol but a non flammable degreaser). Both need to be completely dry before reinstalling. Drive around for.a week or two and check if again lots of oil.

Rover Tasmania thanks a lot I will do that this week