Brings back the memories playing on my weber. 😁 Cheers King Mike. 🥃

Love a 34 Weber on a petrol Landy. Tick over at 100 rpm. Silent !!

Love your videos you make a big difference in terms of helping on the landrover world

That sounded as convoluted to find as the problem I had with the 200di I have in the old girl was.....rough running and idle was the symptom, a loose cover plate on the injector pump was the eventual cause....took me bleedin ages to sort that one!

It's a Singer! I always loved the way the old Land Rover engine ran, no vibrations, no noise, just a fuss free running engine. Beautiful. Good find by the way. I would have been tempted to look at ignition etc.

Always fascinating seeing these old girls run. Fantastic educational content as always, love and look forward to your adventures. Stay well from Jonathan in Kidderminster Worcestershire

Spot on with the detective work yet again 👍👍

My s2 2-1/4 petrol was a nightmare of poor starting and lumpy running and about 14mpg! I fabbed up a 90deg long manifold and fitted a single. 1-3/4 SU, better starting, smooth running and 22 mpg, although most of that was probably down to porosity in the old carb castings! Phil

I still long for the simple life of distributors and the simple carburetor. Where have we gone wrong?

Nice one Mike .

Great video, Mike. A lovely car - don't sell it!

Just rebuilt mine today. The idle jet thingy on the side (#23), ran like crap until i opened it just a wee bit and it smoothed out. Curious- it has a little set screw coming into the side of the body, presumably to lock the threads once adjusted. Anyways, runs fine now. Thanks again 👍 PS- still got your raccoon? Great little guy.

Same carb as old ford cortina escort mike

Nice to see me jet again! When you took it out (pardon!) to show us, did you need to count the turns on the mixture screw to be able to put it back in at the right place - or doesn't it work like that? Weird how it just stopped idling and it took a new jet to sort it. In any case it sounds and runs great. Glad the jets helped.

if you struggle with getting the correct jet size, you can always solder up the original and re-drill to spec size, would get you in the ball park.

The idle fuel enters the jet via the small hole at the end of the jet, where it then mixes with air. Most think the fuel comes out of the tiny hole.....but its the other way around....so you get a blockage in the actual jet body itself.... just a bit of crud floating around trapped within the jet body. Because fuel has slightly less energy than years gone by, for example the use of Ethanol mix in petrol, I have noticed that with all the carbs I set up, they need to be just a touch richer than 'the book' written in the 70s😀 to find the sweet spot. The 52 jet is actually a .52.5...so exactly half way between a .50 and a .55 so you can dial it in nicely.

I like the new Spanish 110 intro, it adds a little something to the video format. How are they getting on with the Spanish 110, do you know?

Ethanol, it corrodes brass. Ask any classic bike, owner it attacks the pilot jet first more often after a layup. Perhaps an SU might be a better bet its only got one jet with a big hole and a needle that wipes it clean.

Thanks for the info, Mike. I have the same carb on my 2.25 and it's always run rich. I live at just over 6,000 feet elevation, and I know these carbs are jetted for sea level, so I've been considering rejetting it for my altitude. The guidance I've seen is to go down one jet size for every 1000 feet once you're above 3000 feet. Do you have a link to the site where you got the jets?

Mike good morning,from experience having converted many land rovers to Webber carbs,back in the day,what you are suffering from is a build up of Alloy in the float chamber,this is caused by the material that the carb is made from gently dissolving when it come into contact with unleaded petrol,Webber had quite a problem with this happening,but solved it in the end by changing the alloy for the original mayzac to a higher grade that resists the effect of the fuel dissolving the body. All that is interesting but won't solve your problem,however this occurs more usually in vehicles that are infrequently used as the fuel sits in the float chamber and remains until it evaporates leaving a deposit Now I know that this is going on a bit but stick with me and I will give you some tips as how to prevent the alloy being affected in this way If you think back to when unleaded was first introduced here in the U.K we had great problems with pinking and hot running not to mention valve seat recession caused by the removal of the lead from the fuel. How we got round this ,well a couple of three ways ,you can if you wish get hold of some roofing lead and put a roll of it in the fuel tank where it will dissolve into the fuel very gently over time this will help to a certain extent, or take a couple of small pieces and place them in the bottom of the float chamber being careful not to block any passages!!.. and making sure that the float hight is not disturbed . However the best way ,if you can get your hands on one is a product that used to be marketed by a company called fuel saver which is to all purposes a tinning device consisting of a tube with a fuel union at each end, and inside a lot of small lead balls which the fuel passes through and picks up enough lead in doing so to prevent the problem occurring I don't know if these things are still available,but they work brilliantly and would be well worth trying to find one for your LR Be good to hear how you get on with it Cheers from Bristol. Reuben aka Mr Coggins.

E10 fuel over here is a nightmare

I might have piece of asbestos cloth .it might work lol

Try taking it to the dealership for service..