loved the way your test sheet of film was in the darkslide backwards at 5.10

Thanks. Looks great. Huge print sounds cool.

Great movie, loved it, with a great result too.

Thanks for your generous process review and nice video doc work of that !! I am motivated to dust off my view camera kit and practice up for the warmer spring days. Right now, the ice and snow here (Ontario) make digital the best choice for landscape (while on snow shoes.)

Excellent video Justin and I liked the image too. A good overview of the whole end to end process that would benefit not only new large format shooters but more experienced users too.

I enjoyed every minute of your work, i really like the end result.

stunning !!!!!!!!!!!!

Nice video Justin - I think the final image turned out beautifully. Great to see your work flow from start to finish too

Awesome video, thanks for sharing 👍

I really enjoyed this very thorough video. I like that you included the mistakes. As a newbie who has made every conceivable mistake it was helpful.

Great looking print. Thumbs up and subscribed

Super video!!!

8x10 photography looks like so much fun! why havent i tried it before yet? maybe i am just scared, but thanks for sharing!

Justin, very nice! Beautiful image. Tony

Hi Justin, Thanks for the new video. Good inspiration for intimate landscape work. I use old Cibachrome 8x10 print developing canisters for my limited 8x10 work. They work like the ones you use and come up on eBay at good prices at times. I have wondered how to handle the agitation in these drums as most agitation instructions are for 1st minute continuous and 10 seconds every minute thereafter. I decided to deduct 10% development time for a constantly agitated drum agitation to tame contrast.

I am not sure sure, but I think I am seeing a Kwala in the photo or an otter .. and must say it is awesome

Glad you chose Satie for the end ... Not sure why you developed in those tubes ...they seem like scratching hazards plus doing things in the dark after loading it once seems backwards .... cheers

Huge light meter 😂👍 like you have pocket camera with you 😂😂 nice one

At 10:10 if you had left the shutter open then the image would be overexposed. Like it would be really dark, but most likely still useable (I accidentally did about a 15-second exposure in broad daylight on 4x5 by leaving my shutter open and still got a very useable negative). That sheet of film did not get exposed at all; there is no information on it whatsoever.

I’ve always wanted one just can’t seem to find one in my area.

I also use a motorized base and a tube meant for developing Paper, but I use it for film. I can get 4 sheets in there, and just reduce my dev time by 20% It's working out pretty good. Time to order for XTOL.

I need a large format scanner. I have been developing and hand printing and then scanning on my V500. Takes Forevvvvvvver.

Justin, love this video, showing your work flow and the beautiful end product. Thanks for the info regarding printer settings, as I am using the same equipment (but 4 x 5 film).Would you use similar settings on your printer for color negative film? Do you recommend 600 dpi for a 4 x 5 negative as well. Enjoying your channel, keep up the good work!

JUST DO A 8X10 contact print if you only want a small print.?

Excuse the French...... But that's FKN awesome!!! Even though there was visible camera shake the print turned out stunning!!

You’re working with a behemoth of an 8x10 camera and you don’t want to lug a proper light meter with you? Are you being ironic?

Awesome video. Would have loved to see the color version too. It looked like color would have worked for the composition also.

Shaking that tube is going to make the grain in the images shoot up and you're going to notice circles in the negs from where bubbles sit on them in the tube, since you do this in the dark, you could just tray develop which would be much better for the negs. I use the same film in 4x5 with a plethora of developers and I never get grain like that

👌

Love watching how other people work. Frustrating that you only got one pic out of three exposures but the one you got is very nice. I have used the BTZS tubes in the past. They are simple to use and it's nice to have that each negative can be developed separately. A couple of questions/thoughts: Why take the film out of the tubes for fixing? I've always done everything in the tube. Water stop bath then pour in the fix. Seem like it gives you more opportunity for scratching/damaging your film. Prior to fixing your film is more vulnerable. I've not used the TF-5 but I've been using TF-4 for 20 years. The fixing smell is not bad with it. Have you thought about trying pyro? Love the images I get with pyro. Fred tried to get me to change to a regular developer earlier this year but the results aren't as good a pyro developer. On those crazy bright days (on a beach surrounded by water) it's difficult not to get a little light leak. I leave my dark cloth in place to shield the holder from the light. Then pull and replace the dark slide underneath to protect from accidental flashing. Looking at the failed negative it looks like it didn't receive any exposure. If it wasn't for the little light spot in the upper right corner. Have you given any thought of going complete analog & doing contact printing at home? Thanks for the suggestion on your darkroom app. That may a show for you in the future. Photo apps to use: the good, bad and ugly. Another great video. Thanks for sharing.

Nice! I wish you had shown how you focused? Did you get up on a step ladder or something?

which light meter app do you use?

What happened to your original PS edit file prior to proofing? Did you flatten the layers and then proof it? Many would have saved the edit process as a "master" file and then resize for printing. I'm not criticizing you, just curious. Concerning the blank sheet of film, you said you left the shutter open, that couldn't have been what happened since there is no exposure on the negative! You either didn't cock the shutter, severely underexposed, or didn't remove the dark slide. Yeah, I've done those too. BTW, I have tested my iphone app's meter, and my digital camera spot meter, and both are 1 stop off (underexpose) as compared to my two calibrated Pentax 1 degree spot meters. Lastly, in my opinion, a darkroom silver print is the ultimate in class and beauty; I also print in ink from digital files, but my film images printed in the darkroom are just special. Thanks for the very good video, always good to see how someone else does it.

What is the cheapest used large 8x10 format I can get. You have any recommendations?

Could you lay out all the parts and number them, in another video. I have been going all over KZfaq trying to find exactly what is needed, and no other videos out there.

I liked it much better before the cropping

Great photo but you say that cheep film is good but it looks so grainy, that would be allot of grain for even a 35mm

Does anyone else see a mountain goat with curly horns?

You selected the wrong media type in your Print Studio Pro settings. It should be Photo Paper Pro Luster not Photo Paper Plus Semi-gloss.

Much better video, it is hands on. However, the results was also crapy. I think the tripod is not up to the camera (not only the weight, but the mass and volume). The focus can be lost easily. Also, the set up was difficult to handle, probably a different lens would have allowed you to focus better. These run of the mill low budget cameras may have light leaks easily. The 4x5 could be better in that sense. Please keep giving us the opportunity to criticize you from the privacy of our homes. Keep the good work.

Enjoyed your video very much. Regarding your Pentax Spotmeter, you can get it fixed and calibrated: www.lg4mat.net/

Seriously? You have such important camera and you use an app?!