Nice build, Erin (by the way, that is my daughter's name). I am in the process of building my own "Long". I agree with another commenter that putting a galvanized chain on the outside would alleviate the "notch" and fumbling problems with the lid. That's what I am doing. I like the weather strips, also. I am experimenting with using carpeting strips, instead. Hope it works. I am also going to install a towel rack on the opposite side of the entrances to hang the smoker on. Clever idea to let the chickens clean up the beetles. We don't have chicks, but put rock salt on the ground under the hive.

Ok I like your simplicity. I am an old timer doing bees for many years now.I give you a small tip.Thetop of the frames on the ends.you worried about the bees glueing it down. I use a little brush and apply a little vegetable oil in places where I do not want the bees to propilize.It works great for me. The leg design is very good,especially the two drilled holes for the rods to hold frames when you work your hive. Also you seen the importance of air circulation. I live where it gets well below zero and the cold does not hurt my bees, closed up to tight where water builds up and causes bad problems in a hive. Hives in your chicken yard is great idea especially if you have a few guinnees .The thrive on ticks and beetles.

5 years ago I started bee keeping. My first LLH was built according to Dr Leo's plans. The second year I reduced the entrances from 3 to 1. I have also put 2" foam insulation in the top. This insulation is in year round for summer cooling and winter heat retention.

I REALLY like the weatherstripping idea!! Also, keeping the plugs from the hole cutting of the vent holes is a really good idea. I also put that extra space to place beetle traps. I have just begun to build my first Long Langstroth Hive. I am watching all the videos, like yours, and learning a lot. Thank you!

Great job on this with woodworking skills and thoughtfulness. I like the double rabbets and allowance for bee space. This will be a good home and save your back!

G'day from Australia - I think you're awesome and did a great job, I like the idea about the pins to hold the frames but maybe put them at 10-15 degree angel so the frames don't slide off if accidentally knocked. I like that you left some bee crawl space at the top as the girls got to move from end to end - and those girls do get around. Regarding the lid -the way the chain was set up looked fiddly but I can see you put some thought about keeping that inside the box however I'm guessing it would be fine if attached to the exterior of the box - especially if it was galvanized. One thing I observed is people don't know what to do with their tools when working a long lang and most often set everything on the ground but a flip up table on the other end would be good to hold the smoker especially if there are going to be chooks underfoot and I had the ide of putting a magnet inside the the top lid so I can click my hive tool to it - then its in easy reach but out of the way. - cheers, D.

This is a good standard design. It is good to put the separate entrances close to the center board, especially if you make it for two colonies. I saw another design posted recently to youtube which has some interesting modifications to the design, llike a feeder shim. it is designed for two colonies. You can do a search for it. I think the title is something like... "horizontal hive design for 8 frame supers".

Awesome construction

I think drilling holes for the pins on the lip of the top, when opened, would also hold the frame over the hive and not risk dropping a queen or a bunch of bees. I liked the idea for a holder!

I put a follower board next to the feeder with 3- 1" holes and it works great for them to go through.

Great job! So interesting!

This is a project with LOVE en PROFFESIONALITEIT TOP

When you get a bit of time, would you upload your building of this? Would love to try to build one. Your instructions were so clear and easy to follow. Thanks! Have a fabulous weekend Erin and T.! Much love and light being sent!

really brilliant

Fred Dunn says 1/4” gap. You say 3/8”

Does the unused space accumulate any mites etc? How has the design worked? I like the idea!

Why did you put the chain on the inside?