Great video. I'm 48 and just finished my first semester in machining program here in Montana. I am constantly watching all the machining videos I can find. I made a machinist jack as my final project for the semester and man am I hooked. It's a difficult trade to learn but I love it. It helps keep me focused and the attention to detail needed to make the simplest thing is amazing.

Hi, apart from the various comments on a Chuck block for loading and unloading, and indexing the Chuck to the truest location and marking the hubs to ensure consistent refitting, I would suggest that for mounting and dismounting the chucks you use a socket set breaker bar and extension to loosen and tighten the cams and a tension wrench to consistently and accurately tighten the cams. I personally have stored away my T handle Chuck keys and just use a breaker bar for all square key operations on the lathe. It gives more consistent leverage and less knuckle damage from Chuck key slippage as a bonus. Good luck and take care.

Adam is a friend and is a very kind and person and is always open to help folks. You did a good job on fixing up your Chuck. Just one suggestion, make a support for the Chuck or get a skyhook. Not just for protection of the ways and Chuck but more importantly the protection of you hands and fingers. If you are not prepared for the weight which most are not, it will drop and you will be injured. I have seen this many times. Be safe. Thank you for sharing your process.😊😊😊😊

You should cover ways with wood cover when changing chuck. In case chuck drops

I have a 1440 Nardini lathe and I took a short piece of 4x4 using the band saw made cuts for the 2 raised v in the ways then slid it up to the chuck and marked it for the chuck. It makes changing out the chuck much easier.

Abom79 really is a great guy with a great channel. I reached out to him a few years back and he answered. Also, there are some firearms products out there from various manufacturers like Lucas oil (CLP), that are quite good cleaners and are not overly expensive. Nice video. Good luck with the channel.

Nice shirt!!! Always informative. Keep the video's coming!

The positioning of the Lathe Chuck will affect the Cam Locks ?? IF you take the Lathe Chuck off, and re-mount it in another position than where you removed it from the Cam Locks will tighten to a different position. Just something to know when you remove and re-mount the Lathe Chuck, best to have a datum point marked so you can re-mount the Chuck to it's original position 👍

Taught me something new thank you I will be trying the springs myself hopefully with that new hat since I’m a new subscriber lol if not thanks for the content and MERRY CHRISTMAS

One error I see a lot of people making with six jaw chucks, and worse, people in KZfaq saying that it should be done, is using it as a three jaw chuck. That should never be done. First of all six jaw chucks should only be used on precision machined work. It shouldn’t be used on mill material that isn’t exactly round. If you measure “round” non precision stock, you’ll find that indeed it’s not round. The problem with that is that some of the jaws tighten fully, and others remain loose. Loose in this case means not tight to the same amount as the tight jaws. This wears the tight jaws more than the others. Worse than that is removing three jaws and using it as a three jaw chuck. When you do that, you wear the jaws and their tracks in the body. That’s fine if you throw the other jaws away. But if you mostly use it with three jaws, the wear will not allow all six jaws to tighten on the work when you reinstall the other three. Older machinists (such as myself) know this, but younger guys, mostly who have little formal knowledge or training, don’t seem to. Chuck manufacturers will also tell one not to do it. If you absolutely insist on doing it anyway, then switch the three jaws for the other set on a regular basis to attempt to even out the wear. Not ideal, but much better than what I see most guys doing. Still, don’t use it as a six jaw on mill stock, that’s not what a six jaw is intended for. I know some guys will poo poo this, but that’s because they just don’t know, and haven’t thought it through. But really, it should be obvious to anyone who thinks of themselves as a machinist, even a hobbyist. You can see that that piece of stainless that was chucked isn’t round. That’s not a six jaw job. As an aside, always lightly oil the jaws when replacing them.

My Colchester has an alignment mark on the spindle and one on the chuck. The pins are individually set to the pockets so need to go back in to the same one. It may have been that your chuck had been rotated in the holes at some point. If yours doesn't have them I suggest a couple of centre pops. Those chucks are heavy, I always place a piece of wood across the lathe bed when removing a chuck, it stops any accidental damage if you drop the chuck and gives you a rest point whilst you look for a place to set it down. Good video, keep them coming.

As others have already stated- Make a wooden cradle with a scallop carved into to fit between the chuck and the bed ways of the lathe. It will minimize damage to the ways and your hands. In the shops that I worked in we had maintenance fab a small jib crane the mounted to the back side of the main drive with a hand wheel and an off-set hook the wnet through the center of the different chucks that we used. This eliminated the effort of lift those heavy chucks into the spindle. We also used them to hold large heavy pieces in place and long stock until the tail stocks could be run-in to support the work piece. As Tool make with 40 years in the trades STOP HITTING the T-Handles with your palms !!!! Get a deadblow hammer and use it. You will understand after to you have developed severe carpal tunnel issues to you your hands. If not a deadblow a length of pipe over the end of the tee handle works also. As for the Locating Pins no seating, the information is correct in aligning the pin with the groove in the body of the pin. This then allows the offset lock screw in the headstock of the lathe to "Cam Past Center" and stay locked in place. When you do not have them locked past center there is the potential for them to work loose on cuts that chatter or create a lot of energy and create all kinds of issues with your surface finishes that you don't realize come from a loose chuck. Keep up the good work....

Some chuck grease wouldn't hurt... Considering the time it was mounted on the lathe I would disassemble it completely and clean and grease all of the parts. It's a really nice chuck, I think it deserves some proper TLC and it will last you years to come. Thank you for sharing! And yes I would like to wear one of your caps. All the best! Job PS: did you tighten the automotive part down like you would on a part you would turn? The chuck bends under load so your center may vary because of that. PS2; the adjusting of the chuck to be true on center is only true for the diameter your clamping on the moment itself. Because the spiral which drives the yaws has an inaccuracy from start and will be worn inconsistently over the years of use, you have to recenter the chuck everytime you need to be really accurate reclamping parts. You probably knew but maybe it helps.

Just found your channel. interesting.Helpfull.

One thing I noticed is that the chuck seems to slide off the cone when the locks are loosened. IMO the fit should be just good enough that the chuck sticks slightly. That way you know the chuck is fitting solid on the taper, guaranteeing a snug fit and things are consistently centered. Not sure if it got better after the cleanup as you didn't show it. Stoning might help but with some of the cheap camlock plates need a little trimed of the back to achieve that fit. In your case it looks like taper may have simply worn some..

Good old Nardini. I have a 20x60 D1-8 spindle and it's a pretty good metal eating machine.

I am balding and the sun burns are painful. Please help!

I don't know about Cleaning properties but LPS3 is a superb Rust prevention. It dries & leaves a thin film of grease.

Wouldnt it be faster to put the jaws in 1 at a time? I mean i guess it works but its overkill. Rotate the scroll until it’s at number one and then put in the number one jaw and rotate 60 degrees. Rinse and repeat.

I’m 71 and live in Australia where we are coming into summer. I could really use a suave new cap

It’s windy on the Texas panhandle and a hat would be handy!

Had to let my old lathe go for a move. Need another lathe. What do you think of the Nardini?

KZfaq said give you a try. I'm glad it did. I'm number 96.

well the current hats sitting on my bench would speak volumes for just how bad I need a new hat!

"...seems to be going through it like butter!" It's aluminum. Steel is real, though. Have you considered grinding that chuck in? Robin Renzetti made a video about that recently. Anyway, nice video. And nice lathe. I have a 9x20 with that HF paint so I'm looking forward to leveling up into something like this.

"I don't know what I'm doing, but I'm going to adjust the locking cams on my lathe chuck."

My head is cold.

75lbs will do damage to your ways... Cover them before you loosen the cam locks. I use a 1 inch dense foam from packaging, just put it under your chuck... Even Adam does. 😀

Accuracy and shiny metal go together. Adjusting with surface rust will result in disappointment. Get it all clean and start from there.

If you saw My Head, you would not ask why I need a hat. You would BEG me to take one from you. Please Dear God. How was that?

Go back & watch Adam's video, your tightening procedure is incorrect. You should lightly stone the backplate surfaces then wipe it down clean. Protect the ways by placing a large piece if wood under the chuck

You should clean the rust off the jaws using wd40 and a red or gray scotchbrite pad.

Hi, apart from the various comments on a Chuck block for loading and unloading, and indexing the Chuck to the truest location and marking the hubs to ensure consistent refitting, I would suggest that for mounting and dismounting the chucks you use a socket set breaker bar and extension to loosen and tighten the cams and a tension wrench to consistently and accurately tighten the cams. I personally have stored away my T handle Chuck keys and just use a breaker bar for all square key operations on the lathe. It gives more consistent leverage and less knuckle damage from Chuck key slippage as a bonus. Good luck and take care.