So far mine is friction fit plus magnetic

Cool. I hope you can find a deal like this down under.

You bet. Cheap and easy to install too

You bet, thanks for watching

A very simple install. I like it. Thanks

Yep, thanks

Another person said the same. I guess i got lucky, Thanks!

I found the same when I fitted one to my mill drill, magnet in upside down and it doesnt work

Thanks, will do!

Thanks! There wasn't any good spot to put my magnet.

Glad you liked it!

Right on! They work well.

Thanks for the magnet advice. Others have said the same. I guess i got lucky.

Thanks!

Yes very simple. Ah yes, I think that is the first time I have ever used that vise. I got three of them with my mill and that one was sitting further back on the shelf.

and what a nice late

@@henkholdingastate It's a 1931 11-inch South Bend, thanks

Thanks Dave, the treadmill motor sounds great. I'm okay with my step pulleys. Most the time the speed on the lathe is not so critical plus on my 1931 it's nice to retain an original look even if it isn't really original. The milling machine I just restored had a bad motor. Vevor game me a 1 hp replacement so I used it. It seems to be a good motor and I like the fact that it was free but the belts are a real pain to get to. I'm seriously thinking about either a 3ph motor of a treadmill motor. I have a VFD and also found a 3/4HP 3ph motor so that's probably what I'll go with. My 1917 Avey drill press could also use a higher range of speeds. Right now I'm stuck between 280 and 550 RPM. It would be nice to have up to 1500 without losing the low speed. I might simply add a step pulley to the motor... again, it's nice to have the original look of the old machine.

Thanks for the comment. Yeah... I was tired of looking for the calculator. I think calculator and screw driver were work together. They like to hide from me. One time the screw driver got really creative, it was hiding in plane sight where you would never suspect. In my hand!

@@WinkysWorkshop 🤣🤣🤣🤣

Out of curiosity what does your 820 run at in it's 3 speeds? I'm guessing pretty close this one, 400 / 650 / 1000 ? (if you have the stock 1725 single phase motor)

@@Zt3v3 The Logan had a little more range. It had a 2 step pulley coming from the motor. The speeds were 420 780 and 1400 on the larger motor pulley. I never used the smaller pulley.

Been there done that... yeah, i like the 120V tach.

Great idea! I like that!

I totally agree. Thanks

That's what I plan to do, add this to my old DP.

Yeah, always on is probable a good way to go.

why ?the machine must have a speed chart so what with the RPM s

@@danhayward9186 Agree... for a variable speed drive its a huge advantage. My lathe doesn't have a speed chart. It was originally intended for overhead drives although it had options for motor brackets. Nevertheless, I made the drive and at least the motor pulley is not original (even if I had a speed chart). Yeah... I did some math but I wasn't sure where to measure the diameter of the drive pulley for the V-belt. It's about 1/2" thick. Do you use the small diameter or the outside of the belt..... maybe halfway between? Either way... the speed indicator was almost as easy as the math. :o)

Yeah... I got tired of losing the calculator! ha

I'd like to do that with my mill also. Both the VFD and indicator!

Thank requires math! Haha... Actually the flat belts are easy but the pulley on the motor is small and I'm never sure where to calculate the diameter? Inside the belt or outside or half way? Then the back gear ratio is unknown.

Thank you!

Very cool! Thanks

Thanks, I love to hear this. Yeah, that tap handle is very handy.

Your welcome, thanks for watching. AND thanks for the translation too!

Thanks for sharing

Thanks Paul, its an easy thing to do and its nice to know the speeds... cheap too!

Thanks!

Yes it does! Thanks

For sure cheap and they seem to work well!

You bet, thanks for watching

Any time! Thanks for watching.

that's great. Mine is still there. I mounted mine to a steel sleeve but later I found some instructions on the Amazon page that said it should be mounted on a non-magnetic surface. Hmmm... mine of on steel and works well.

@WinkysWorkshop yes that, plus I found my prox sensor was magnetically polarity sensitive. Had to be sure I had the "trigger pole" mounted outward

Thanks, yes I agree. Cheap!

Thanks 👍

Me too! Thanks

Glad you enjoyed it

Same here really. Still nice to know the speed however

Cool, let me know how it works out.

Thank you very much

Thank you! Cheers!

Haha... now that is creative!

Cool

Cool, I'll try it

I agree, epoxy is better in many situations. Although super glue is amazing stuff for some things. Like Balsa wood!

Interesting, maybe I need to flip the magnet. Maybe it will stabilize quicker.

That would have been the best approach!

Yeah... mine did not come with instructions but I found out about the non-ferrous metal looking the Amazon page. It seems to work... I missed the 10mm spec, Thanks!

Yes, thanks

Thanks on the south bend and I totally agree... i hate a bunch of wires!

A thin figure 8 lead from an old 12VDC plug pack is not so onerous I think. Better than messing with mains wiring.

@@BenMitro Messing with the main power was easy and I didn't want more wires and outlets to deal with. 12V would be okay if I had to but the 120v option is better for me.

@@WinkysWorkshop Coming from a 240V environment I guess I view this from a different angle, but yes, fair enough - whatever works.

@@BenMitro Yeah... I can understand that. I've been shocked by 120v a couple time. I didn't like it but. I'm still here.

Could be... maybe aluminum.

Hello Mark. I may do that. Maybe even leave it on. I'm not worried about the power but I thought it might shorten the life of the electronics. For $18 Bucks maybe I need to buy a couple replacements.

I'm glad you like it, Thanks

Thanks. Technically this would be a good idea but the wire I used is very industrial (thick insulation). Plus the wire will never be moved like it would be with a normal power cord.

Cool... and cheap.

Going on and off doesn't seem to bother the display but you could be right.

Your welcome. It's certainly simple.

Just got it in today. I'm still working through my lathe restore. Is there no ground for the it? You just feed power to one of the terminals right?

Thanks Dan!

True... so far its holding just with magnetism but I need to do something better.

@@WinkysWorkshop how about a set screw from the end?

@@dans_Learning_Curve I liked the idea one guy had, run an end mill almost all the way thru from the other side. So there is a lip to hold the magnet.

@@WinkysWorkshop and the magnetic would go in from the inside?

@@dans_Learning_Curve That would be the best for sure!

Cool.. I think its a great deal

Ha, thanks. On this indicator I found out later the magnet holder this be aluminum on non-magnetic. It works with steel but maybe better with non-magnetic.

Yes it does, thanks!

The power source for my readout is a nine volt battery. Amazon has a box with an on off switch just for a nine volt.

9V would be easier but I like not having to worry about batteries

Not a bad idea but I change chucks a lot

@@WinkysWorkshop It's easy to knock off even with the glue. I also catches a lot of metal dust but it wipes off easily.

@@perdidocamaronero5400 I'd drill a small hole and glue it in.

I agree... for 20 bucks I can wait 4 seconds

@@WinkysWorkshop Check out Mr. Pete’s Saturday video that I helped him produce by surface grinding two small angle plates to inspection grade. The title is “Precision Grinding Angle Plate’s”. Collaboration with Ellie Price.

@@ellieprice363 I just watched it, Very nice video! Isn't Mr. Pete a great guy? I met him at the Florida Flywheeler event last year. Thanks for letting me know about this video!

@@WinkysWorkshop Yes, Mr. Pete is a super nice guy and a wonderful teacher. I've never met him in person but enjoy sending him ideas to use on his channel. My primary purpose is to help him reach 300K subscribers which may be possible if he continues to publish his great videos. BTW, you're doing great. I see you've received over 13K views on your latest.

@@ellieprice3396 Yeah... this one is 34K which is great.

I forgot about those things... that would be handy to have

I agree... in hindsight.. Ha, I may modify. Thanks!

Maybe but i have a space problem to deal with... I need a bigger shop!

I agree

No DRO which is why I need the calculator :o)

@@WinkysWorkshop ok thanks

Thanks 👍

mine works imbedded in a steel tube but after I installed it I found instructions on the Amazon page that said it needed to be imbedded or attached to something non-magnetic.

Cool! I found out later that the Amazon page has some instructions on it. Apparently the magnet is supposed to be mounted in a non-magnetic surface. I mounted mine in steel and it worked.

Dang... NOW THAT is a GREAT idea!

I think you are right although it seems to work fine. Maybe I got lucky.

I've done without mine for a while but it's nice knowing the speeds.

I much prefer the older stuff. With that being said, most often these machines have wear, sometimes significant. My South Bend is worn fairly bad. If I was running a machine shop I'd look for new or newer machines but for hobby use I can take the time to work around the wear. I usually buy from individuals but have bought from dealers as well. My Hardinge lathe and Avey drill press came from a dealer. The Great Lakes area is a hot bed of used machines. I'm in KY so I sometimes end up driving a long distance. I mill was over 300 miles away.

Its battery and solar I'm not sure I have ever seen one of these go dead.

Thank you. Understood.

Thats a vert good idea, I may do that. Thanks!

Thanks Paul!

Let me look up daft.... uh, yeah... maybe daft :o) Honestly, I'm not sure on the back gear ratio and wasn't sure what diameter to use for the motor pulley. Maybe you know. It's about 3" on the OD of the belt and just over 2" on the ID.

It's always good to verify what's going on.

I gave up on MIG. TIG is much easier. I did a review on a Vevor TIG but they no longer make the one I reviewed. If I was doing production welding I would probably use MIG but my TIG welds look MUCH better than my MIG. If you just want to weld steel I recommend getting the cheapest 220V TIG. Inverter technology has progressed and I suspect most TIGs are good welder.

I just turned the lathe on with slack in the belt and then tightened it. It seems to take about the same time to stabilize. I suspect it might be due to the fact that my magnet is mounted in steel. After installing the speed indicator I found the instructions on line. It said i was supposed to mount the magnet in something non-magnetic like aluminum. I suspect this would help a lot.

Mine came with the magnet but i have seen them that pick up a hole in steel. I might try this.

@@WinkysWorkshop To be fully sure datasheets would need to be compared, not only physical outside, the blue end plug. But, You cal always test. Maybe the magnet makes a stronger, more detectable signal to the electronics. I used the sensors as home switch, end of move detection etc.

@@Stefan_Boerjesson No date sheet or instructions. ☹

@@WinkysWorkshop It's the same here. Bought them s long time ago, maybe from Ebay.... Just to test!

Simple to. Thanks

A good idea I'm sure. So far I've been lucky.... it's still in place and held by magnetism. Also, after installing the magnet I found instructions on the Amazon page. It said to mount the magnet in a non-magnetic material. I mounted in steel but it works.

I didn't think of the Non-magnetic mount till you mentioned it @@WinkysWorkshop but eventually it may lose its magnetism and/or spread the magnetic field around the circumference affecting the accuracy of your tach. A piece of PVC Tubing might have been a better choice of material. . .

@@oldSawyer I was thinking aluminum but PVC would work as well.

I got that at a garage sale 30 years ago. It is an excellent vice but has one big negative. The back jaw moves instead of the front. This makes it impossible to hold stock vertically below the vice. I'm not sure on the brand but it's make in Poland.

@@WinkysWorkshop interesting I didn’t even notice that. Very cool, thank you.

@@WinkysWorkshop interesting I didn’t even notice that. Very cool, thank you.

@@electropancake1554 No problem

If you know the RPM and the diameter you can calculate the surface speed (SFPM=Surface Feet Per Minute Dia is in inches that's why things get divided by 12 π= 3.14145927=Pi). You use this formula SFPM = (π x Dia x RPM) / 12 And if you want to know what RPM to go for a particular diameter to get a certain surface speed then you use this formula RPM = SFPM / (π x (Dia / 12)) HSS cutting mild steel you want to keep it under 100 SFPM. I have a chart hanging up so I'm not using those formulas all the time.

This is handy. www.machiningdoctor.com/charts/sfm-to-rpm/

@@WinkysWorkshop I'm not sure if the SFPM to metric is particularly handy. 😜

@@1pcfred Maybe for some... my brain is programmed for Inches and Feet. Admittedly an inferiors system.

@@WinkysWorkshop I do not find standard to be inferior to metric for what I use it for. I am not a scientist. I only build their laboratories for them.

A larger diameter would have greater surface speed but exactly the same RPM. No adjustment needed. Kind of like a clock. You can use the same clock works in any size dial you want.

@@WinkysWorkshop That was explained very well. Thanks.

@@MrModify Thanks.

Ratios only come into play when there's one thing spinning another thing. Like say two pulleys or gears. But if you spin a cone it's all spinning at the same RPM.

@@1pcfred you are right my brain must have been out of gear when I asked about it.

Like I said in the other comment, it is steel but it should be aluminum

Sorry black brow and blue on the sensor

You got it. If your lathe is 120V just hook into the main power at your switch and have two smaller wires go to the display. I'd say you could do it before the switch and just leave it on all the time. I was worried it might shorten the life of the display but who knows if this is true. If you don't feel comfortable doing the wiring get some help. I'd hate to hear about one of my viewers getting electrocuted!!!!

@@WinkysWorkshop thank you my only thoughts was how small the ports were for the AC Current and seeing it had no instructions with it I did not want to hook it up wrong and shorten out the unit. I'm having a problem finding a place to put the magnet on my South Ben the motor is down in the cabinet and my side door that covers the change gears has to be opened every day to oil my reverse gear and with something in the end of the spindle the side door will not open.

@@anthonycash4609 I'm not sure what to tell you on the magnet location but it needs to be on the spindle or bull gear. Yes the power wires going to the display need to be small gauge.

@@WinkysWorkshop finished my lathe speed meter today winky. Slow 471 medium 798 fast 1375 forgot to check back gear. I ended up putting the magnet on the end of the spindle like you did. Works good thanks for your help.

Of course you are right and I knew about what they were. The math was easy although I didn't know where to measure the V-belt pulley on the motor. On the outside of the belt or inside. This makes a big difference.... and the indicator was easy.

@@WinkysWorkshop I must have implied that the rev counter was of no value...sorry. What I should have said that just chucking the magnet is some temporary holder, noting the rpm for all possible belt combinations and making a chart would relieve the rev counter for some other application that is more variable.

@@Uts9000 No need to explain. You make a good point. I will say however, it's convenient to see. It's hard to find a place to post a speed chart in my shop. I'm now thinking about an easy access flip chart with tabs. I have stuff plastered everywhere.

Still going strong!

Why would this amuse the grandkids?

@@WinkysWorkshop If you put JB Weld on rare earth magnets the epoxy migrates over the entire surface and forms geometrically precise patterns of spikes. I found it amusing and was once a grandkid.

@@markkoons7488 Ah... now that I think about it that makes sense. Thanks

Surface speed would be nice!

Oooh... no kidding. Mine looked bad when I got it.

Simple and cheap!

On the outboard side I'd have to drill a hole in the guard for the sensor and I'm not willing to do that on this old lathe. The bull gear has the pin that you disengage for back gear that would obstruct the sensor.

I was supposed to use aluminum but didn't realize this. My instructions were missing. I'll check out your channel, thanks.