Yes, I’d say it’s one of the worst I’ve come across. Thankfully it’s somewhat better now! Thank you for the comment John, your support is really appreciated 👍

Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! It will certainly do for now, I’m hoping to revisit this a future video…

That is the first instance I’ve heard of a tang being part of the torque transmission. A correctly mating taper should require no additional drive from tangs as the mechanical grip of the two items is more than enough to prevent slippage. I have had problems in the past when reducing morse tapers of larger drills to the next taper down for very specific tasks, here the cutting force required overcomes the taper and breaks the tang off. However I don’t make a habit of doing that… Sometimes we have limited with solutions, as long as it works then it’s a successful compromise!

The tang is decidedly not designed to take the torque, the friction in the mating faces of the taper is designed for torque. Kindly explain to me why a mild steel tang ( most morse taper drills and reamers have the HSS welded or brazed to a low carbon steel) of relatively small size can resist the torque whilst drilling. Regards John from the Black Country UK. Edit: whilst.

Curiosity led me to find the video the original poster above (sorry I can’t quote directly, the KZfaq app I receive comment notification on isn’t the easiest to scroll through…). In that video it was clearly written in various publications that the tang is to be used for transferring torque IN ADDITION to the taper. That is obviously an area of contention and whether that is 100% truth or not is to be debated. If I was to take that as truth, I could argue that very large drills (don’t quote me on a size but say 3” and above?) there may be some transmission of torque because the drill probably should be up to the next taper and morse taper 6 and 7 aren’t very common. The force required to make the tapers of something that size would be far beyond the scope of hand pressure, so the tang would absolutely be used as an anti-rotation device before the pressure on the drill forced the tapers together. Certainly for smaller drills us mortals tend to wield there should be no requirement for torque transmission through the tang and if there is I’d be looking for an issue with the drill or the quill.

@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 I was taught to insert the drill or reamer with slight rotation anticlockwise to create a gap, so if the drill slipped, there was maximum gap before the tang saw any load, plus slam it in, or use a mallet etc. Spot on, Ref slippage. Another point on yours ref larger drills on small tapers, just consider turning the OD a 100mm diameter part in the chuck , but it's only held on a 50mm diameter stub. Gotta love the power of tapers. Regards John.

Hi Phil, thank you for leaving a comment! Try to keep the reamer stick out length as short as possible otherwise it will go wherever it wants. Also, clocking it in was difficult so don’t rush and go steady. Otherwise you could bore with a carbide boring bar which will give good results. Any decent cutting compound will do, trefolex is another personal favourite but anything that clings on given its high cutting pressure. Otherwise good luck!!

Welcome to the club, thank you for the support 👍

Thanks, appreciate the support 👍 Stay tuned for more content coming soon!

@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 I'm thinking of building a shed and buying my own lathe but only a small one. It looks like I will have to get a Chinese one because I live out in Thailand now.

Hmm, you might not have much choice… I would strongly recommend getting a machine of some description, but I couldn’t do without a larger machine. The small ones are always just not big enough from what I’ve found using them in the past, but any lathe is better than no lathe!! Maybe consider making one from scratch if not? That would be a great project!

@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 It will be only for smallish stuff. I hope to make a tutorial channel on basic lathe operation and things. I was a fitter in the U.K in a car factory and we had a really nice maintenance shop but the trouble with being a fitter is you don't really get a lot of machining experience. Sometimes you would not use a lathe or mill for a few weeks so you will never be an expert on machining and when a machining job came in I was always a bit slow with it. If you know what I mean that is.

I absolutely do know what you mean. It impossible to become a master of anything without doing that thing very regularly. I was a fitter years ago but moved into the world of machining. There’s still a lot of satisfaction starting with a lump of steel, turning 90% of it into swarf but resulting in the part you drew on the back of a fag packet. Good luck with your tutorials if you decide to go along that route. It is time consuming creating content but it’s nice when even just one person enjoys watching

I think I’ve said this in other comments too but this is by far the worst condition tailstock quill I’ve ever come across. I still wonder how it grabbed anything! It probably isn’t the best method of refinishing and I wasn’t expecting it to need quite so much material out but once it’s started you may as well keep going! It’ll be near enough for my needs, I’ll be improving it in the near future anyway. I could still lap it, we’ll see how it goes! Thanks for the support and taking the time to leave a comment 👍

Aren’t they??!! I appreciate the briefness of your comment 😄 I do still find it amazing that this pokey little channel nestled in a group of millions of others is not only able to attract viewers, but like yourself, folk who are compelled to leave a comment (be it good, bad or indifferent). I think it’s great. I must scoff at your suggestion that milk goes in tea! As a tight-fisted Yorkshireman, milk and sugar doesn’t come close to a brew. I actually don’t like milk or sugar in my tea or coffee, they have to be black and strong enough to stand a spoon up in. A little glimpse into the inner sanctum…

Sure, it’s the best way to do that with out other machinery. While you were doing it, I did think that you would have to take a lot off the quill. There was so much damage (I’ve never seen a quill with that much damage) that you had to take a lot out of the taper. Since these tapers have a high ratio, just a small amount of enlargement means a lot of depth.

Thanks for taking time to leave a comment. Yes, there are few options if the lathe must fix itself, but the repair went well. I haven’t seen so much damage in a quill before either, it is a wonder it was able to grab anything at all! There was certainly a trade off here between leaving some damage but not reducing the overall length by too much, or removing all the damage and taking the hit on the length. I do have a plan to improve this so keep a look out for that!

I highly doubt it… they’ve almost certainly been used more in my ownership than the lathes entire life! Nevertheless, it wouldn’t have helped the bore as this shouldn’t have been oiled anyway. In fact, oiling of drills and centres may very well have caused this…

Great, thank you! Appreciate the support, keep a look out for the next release 👍

Thank you for that very comprehensive opinion/observation of the bodgery that goes on in this shop! I do really appreciate the time you’ve taken to post that comment. I’ll start with the justification to use a reamer. It was only supposed to be a tickle, but turned into much more… I lack carbide boring bars to turn the ID, although I am planning on getting hold of a few for something in the pipeline. As you rightly say, the blue check confirmed the less-than-perfect result of the reamed surface (I don’t particularly like reamers at the best of times) but the surface in there was so bad it’s unlikely to have been truer than it is now. Suppose it was a calculated trade-off between usability and potential loss of accuracy. I do have a couple of 0.0001” clocks but they weren’t local when this was filmed and being used to do another job. I also wouldn’t have managed to get it close enough to justify the use of a finer dti in that set up anyway. It wanted putting in another machine which I don’t have… Perfect world and all that! Also don’t forget even though this lathe represents some of the finest British engineering of its time, it was manufactured in the 40’s / 50’s so any accuracy that it once had is all gone, no thanks to its heavy handed past. That’s not an excuse by the way, you are right in that machines of this nature deserve the best. It would be nice to have the bed re-done and everything reconditioned but on such a cheap machine it isn’t worth it. Maybe in years to come I’ll do that. Your views and opinions have all been taken on board, thanks for watching and taking the time to reply 👍

@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 Im most glad you took the comment as it was intended! I get you, as i too have a whole array of troubling machines at my ``shop`` which need reworking, fixing, new parts and so on, and every single project would be better off if any and every other project on the list was already done... Not just that, but as with your preoccupied indicators, i too have a lot of lacking equipment in one way or another, which renders other work even harder, but i do try my best to go for robin renz. level of quality of work or i dont work at all... Speaking of bed of the lathe... I know im suggesting a comprehensive undertaking, but consider getting a nice 00grade thick straight edge and scraping in the bed with a few indicators, sub micron grade parallels and so on... One neednt have a whole machine reground professionally to have a 0.001mm tir or better... It will take months of effort and finesse, yet it is doable, and the results are worth all the time one could invest... Especially on that lathe, which unlike some, doesnt have ``hidden`` ways and crazy contraptions that demand you to scrape at maddening angles and maintain paraplegic body postures... As said, I too have a few olden machines, some with regretful ways geometry and some with pinned and bolted ways which can be taken out and surface ground to oem spec. in a few minutes... My machines are around 10 tonnes in collective mass, and most of them i got for scrap prices, as i saved them from the shredders, not due to wear and damage explicitly, but because someone died and they got tossed out... So my machines are cheap af too, but they like your lathe, are of the olden make, and can if redone with love, offer absolute precision, with rigidity far surpassing that of most modern machines... Sure, to send them to rebuilders, it would be 20k$ per machine or 10k at best, but a carbide scraper is 20$ and i have the precision instruments to refer to, just as the rebuilders would... Also, get a carbide boring bar, they are costly, but a 10 or 12mm one can be had for around 30$ and it will reshape the way you think about boring, they are literally an upgrade at the level of a solid toolpost... Regular steel boring bar of the same diameter may seem rigid, but once you lay your hands on carbide bar, you will be amazed at the difference in rigidity if nothing else... Surface finish and accuracy depend on the ways and your setup, but the bar alone is a huge step in the direction of artisan level surface finish and precision... All the best and kindest regards! Steuss

There is always a list longer than it is possible to complete in one lifetime, it’s just the way it is. The important decision comes from deciding how to prioritise those jobs. Unfortunately there are tools missing from even the best stocked workshops, it has always been a matter of how you use what you have to complete the desired task, rather than not doing anything through lack of intuition. This video being a prime example, although I accept sometimes it’s better not to do something rather than try with sub-optimal gear and make it worse… though we learn much through mistakes! I acknowledge the comments made about checking the bed, something I could do at a later day. The issue being the machine is far too useful to have partially stripped and unusable. I would like to give it some love but if I ground the bed it would very quickly rust due to a cold and damp workshop, and that would be disastrous! If you were interested this particular machine is a Woodhouse and Mitchel Junior 7, a highly specified machine for its day and coming in at a little over 1ton in its specified state. It was bought on a similar premise and far too good the simply scrap. I do have a milling machine which will be introduced in due course. Carbide tool holders have been on my list of things to buy for a while, this seems like the ideal time to acquire some! Again, appreciate the comments and time taken to post, it’s great to communicate with like minded people 👍

@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 Yeah, i completely get the problem with having a lathe in the works when you need a lathe, especially if its your only lathe... Tho, for any scraping and detailed work, you can always douse the whole thing worked in wd40 while you are working(no stoning then, as that can prove problematic with floating grit) but with lift off technique you neednt stone the scraped surface to check it, tho any procedure induces at least micro burrs, but a hardened steel parallel will shear off the micro burrs from cast iron like they never existed... Also, for such work, you can get a tub of cheapest chainsaw blade oil, its essentially way oil tacky, not a good way lube, yet it prevents any rust for years if slathered on... Grease also works amazingly, just dig your gloved hand in a tub`o`grease and slather that jam onto the bun you are working... It aint going nowhere, and it will allow you to shift it by a silicone kitchen scraper to clear a surface for hand scraping, before you can just pull that formed glob back over the freshly scraped part to again prevent oxidation... I know that scraping is generally done dry, but a sharp scraper, micron honed will cut even with lubricant on the surface, and will last longer and leave a superb finish, so apart from more effort on your behalf, it could be a good option for your case... Try it on a slab of steel, you can make your own surface plate essentially by scraping a slab of steel, or at least a cool square or whatever, its a practice piece that can only get better as you get better... Apart from that, i will subscribe as i want to see the mill... I am a machine fanatic, if that much wasnt/isnt obvious... Maybe i will start posting vids myself in due time, as i do have an enormous list of shit to do, and much of it could help a lot of people, who like me, and likely you, struggled with machines that have no manual, and come with various problems and issues... Not just that, but other projects that can either inspire others or allow me to ramble and turn someones attention to a mistake they are about to make themselves in their project... All the best!

Your comment certainly tickled me, the imagery generated by the thought of a gloved hand and plenty of jam was that of sheer bliss… that is my current preservation method, but it’s very frustrating having to work around a greased bed, table, ways etc. an insulated and heated garage would be a welcome addition to the toolkit… The mill table is in dire need of a scrape, I’m reluctant to do too much with the lathe at the minute due to reasons previously acknowledged. What I do have is a beautiful power scraper which supplements my hand sandvik carbide scraper perfectly. This will be making an appearance hopefully during the winter when I refresh the mill so your suggestion of a straight edge will certainly be needed. I have one or two surface tables in great condition that will be becoming well acquainted with the mill table in due course. If you have the time and some basic equipment I absolutely recommend giving it a go, and if you’ve got a reasonable understanding of photo and video editing then it will be much easier to start. I must invest in some better equipment, my current recording and editing gear is far from the best. It definitely isn’t easy though, maintaining attention is difficult, and you can’t please all the people all of the time… Good luck!

No raining done here, don’t worry about offending. The taper was soft, not overly but goes some way to explaining why it was so damaged. Did I say zero one? I’d have to check but if I did say zero one, I was talking in hundredths (so 0.01mm). My tenth thou clocks weren’t available but within 0.01mm at the chuck end and 0.03mm at the other I think I live with that considering the state before hand. The reamer wasn’t as rigid as I’d have liked but sometimes we have little choice. The length it was stuck out allowed some small flex in the set up when forced. It’s always a trade off in the home setting. I do have plans to improve this so it will certainly get me by for now! Appreciate the time spent to comment 👍