Fingerboarding & Hangboarding: A Beginner's Guide

Рет қаралды 147,984

Күн бұрын

NEW TO FINGERBOARDING?
We get asked a lot of questions about beginning fingerboard routines, when we think it's appropriate to start and what anyone should be looking out for when they first start to use a fingerboard. In today's video, we've got Ollie Torr sharing our experience and methods for entry-level fingerboarders.
Despite the fingerboard being quite a simple tool (and the methods of training being relatively straight forward) there are a number of key items you MUST cover before diving too deeply into this form of training if you're new to it!
Grip Type: There are 4 main grip types that the vast majority of fingerboard training is completed in. Know what they look and feel like and really "learn" how to use them before you jump straight into training them!
Protocols: We're not aware of one "secret" or "only" way of fingerboarding that's better than anything else out there. The reality is that a varied methodology of training, made athlete-specific and used at the right time of the year is what works best. Sorry everyone, there's no magic pill!
Frequency: When you first start fingerboarding, you must be really careful with overall loading and frequency of training. It's going to be very easy for you to achieve overload initially, so don't overcook it (even if you're really motivated to train loads). Check your training history and avoid spikes in load!
Intro: (0:00)
Why Fingerboard?: (0:25)
Things to be aware of: (0:40)
Intensity: (1:07)
Grip Position: (2:27)
Protocols: (4:47)
Frequency: (6:59)
Form: (8:11)
Outro: (10:27)
Find out more about our Lattice Training Plans here: latticetraining.com/plans/
Download the Crimpd App:
App store - itunes.apple.com/us/app/crimp...
Google Play - play.google.com/store/apps/de...

Пікірлер: 95

@chaozzah 3 жыл бұрын

For true beginners, don't stress if the half crimp doesn't make sense or you are unable to do it. I thought my hands were weird, but after a few weeks I could manage just fine. It's often hailed as the best, and I do prefer it now, but it was a bit demotivating to start off not being able to do that. Full crimp on a fingerboard still feels weird to me, as if my thumb is too short. Not that I would want to do that, I don't think it actually adds to your training? It's just to give you a little more strength, but I'd save it for climbs that matter. Training is for training. I'll have to watch out for over-stressing I guess, I typically keep on going to failure. Most apps have such punishing exercises by default that I can't imagine any beginner completing them. The beastmaker app 6a (which for some reason doesn't mean you should be able to do 6a, there is no relation as they say) is brutal with 12-14 minutes of hangtime, including 2 finger pocket hangs. I had to change the default 7/3 to 6/4 to manage it.

@michaeltaborelli1659 3 жыл бұрын

I want an audiobook read by Ollie

@KitKatToeBeans 3 жыл бұрын

Check out cjugames 👍🏼 for a soothing voice.

@guswidener2854 2 жыл бұрын

i was looking up how to ollie on a fingerboard...like a finger skateboard

@MitchellRoman97 3 жыл бұрын

This video should be posted at every climbing gym ever. Beginners and intermediate climbers can benefit from waiter learning this or using this as a refresher. Thanks Lattice :)

@elie_ 3 жыл бұрын

Ver very veeeery informative, thanks! Even though I don't consider myself a beginner anymore, I learned a whole bunch. Especially regarding the different grips, why/when to train different grips or not. I started my fingerboard journey with a 4 fingers open hand, because it naturaly came ot me and I didn't know much. As a result, I became really unbalanced: way stronger open hand than in full crimp. I guess it's time for me to go back to underloading myself, into half crimp training!

@petemccormick1390 2 жыл бұрын

Brilliant video and instruction for us beginners thanks

@matteobecchi1210 2 жыл бұрын

This is really super useful! Thank you!

@Ataraxia_Atom 3 жыл бұрын

Great information thank you

@quarq111 3 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much! Just started today and desperately needed help! Can't wait to record the progress, slowly but surely and safely

@neiljacildo8776 3 жыл бұрын

Great explanations! Thanks bro

@punypixel2795 2 жыл бұрын

Incredibly useful as ever, I love the focus on avoiding injury - it makes me comfortable trying new exercises.

@jigglestumps Жыл бұрын

Really great video. There are far too many slightly irresponsible videos on this topic online, including from some very well known climbers. This is great content.

@dcollins48 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for a great video. 1) If I’m climbing 3 days a week, and adding 1 day of max hangs, is it best to fingerboard on the first of the 2 off days or the second? For example, climbing Sunday, Tuesday, Thursday-better to fingerboard on Friday or Saturday? 2) Is it also possible to add it in the morning on the same day as a lower intensity or endurance climbing session in the evening? Been climbing for 2 years and have done some fingerboarding already. Appreciate any advice, you guys are awesome!

@Sinfaroth 3 жыл бұрын

I started training at home two months ago because the gyms are closed in germany and I guess I just didn't do anything right. I did epeaters and max hang with too little rest periods. I did them five times a week. I think all of them would be classified as failed, because my hands start opening or slipping. I have edges that are about 40mm, 30mm and 20mm but they are at an 10°-20° downward angle. I haven't taken of any of my bodyweight and with a really cramped bodyposition I always tried cheating my way through. All the other strength training was going great. Thank you for the video, maybe there is still hope for my tendons.

@landenmoore8366 3 жыл бұрын

Y'all are putting out incredible content on this channel. Extremely informative. Far and away the best instructional channel for climbing that I've come across. Cheers

@LatticeTraining 3 жыл бұрын

Many thanks! 🙏

@kristiandaugaard7495 3 жыл бұрын

Is that the new wide boyz free standing wall in the background?

@jesskolbe Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much!

@morchn6714 3 жыл бұрын

Amazing Video! Keep ‘em coming!!!

@Didiclimbs Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much

@foihdzas 3 жыл бұрын

Amazing guide! I'm forwarding this to my new to climbing friend.

@MafuHardy 3 жыл бұрын

If you were going to do a grease the groove method, what warmup would you recommend?

@YSlimbo 2 жыл бұрын

My Fingerboard will arrive tomorrow! Really curious how more finger strength will affect my climbing.

@phluxx1991 2 жыл бұрын

would you recommend doing it on climbing days (before climbing i would guess) or on non-climbing days?

@gravyblue 3 жыл бұрын

PLEASE can we have a subscription option to unlock more of the app? I appreciate that coaching is your bread and butter, but I'll never buy a bespoke course, I'd gladly pay a few quid a month every month though

@bhgraf08 2 жыл бұрын

I like this guy

@damo_climbs 3 жыл бұрын

Great video guys! Used the Crimped app to find out my max hang on the 20mm edge of the Beastmaker 2000 is 78,3kg BW+45kg added weight. Is there gonna be an intermediate hangboard video coming aswell, 'cause I really need to know what protocals to follow for improving the finger strenght. Thanks for the usefull video's!❤️

@jonathanwhittall5122 3 жыл бұрын

What's the reasoning behind the 2 minute rest between max hangs? Is it just a matter of keeping the workout to a more managable length? I tried that protocol for a few months, but found it just isn't enough time for full recovery between sets for me. Since moving to a 3-4 minute rest I've gotten better gains - it's allowed for a higher intensity while maintaining form, and so an overall higher quality workout. Thanks!

@thenayancat8802 Жыл бұрын

Totally arbitrary I think, either you want full recovery for max efforts or to train to failure. Doing a set rest (almost always too short for full recovery for me) is the worst of both

@coleharvey6303 Жыл бұрын

For the lattice assessment body hang on a 20mm edge for 10 seconds, can you use any grip you want? Thanks

@mr.apartment 2 жыл бұрын

great info as always, just a couple questions. 1. what’s the best warm up before doing this? 2. do you recommend this before/during/after a typical climbing session?

@CoinBahd 2 жыл бұрын

From what I've seen in other videos, they recommend max hangs when fresh, so after a rest day and before a climbing session you're going to do both.

@dealwithit7515 Жыл бұрын

I have a question, I've been hangboarding w/ half crimp on a 20mm edge for past 6 months and for the last 2 months I've been stuck at bodyweight, i.e. I can't hang 10 seconds with my bodyweight. Do you have any tips on how to make progress? I'm afraid that my hands and fingers are just naturally that weak.

@EtaZeta01 3 жыл бұрын

I've been looking into this as a beginner recently, so a very well timed video. Do the people over at Lattice have any opinions about density hangs? I had read that they were a good way to build up tendon strength

@LatticeTraining 3 жыл бұрын

Yup we like them. In fact, they're a session inside of the Crimpd app that we recently added :-)

@immersediguana2326 Жыл бұрын

What if you can't hang with your body-weight from your fingers at all? Is putting your leg on a chair/stool or using a pulley the only way? I can hang from jugs just fine. I've been trying build up my active hangs, but don't have the grip/finger/lower arm strength to hang with my whole body weight (94kg/207lbs).

@valentinbaierl1606 Жыл бұрын

I am just always wondering when to to hangboarding. After climbing? Same day as climbing but seperate session?

@adajw89 2 жыл бұрын

What am i doing wrong if im slipping out of holds? I dont feel like im at my limit whilst training

@SHYGYMER 2 жыл бұрын

my middle finger feels so messed up like it aches and hurts when I touch it. I mainly only use the jugs and the deep pocket on the second level (for my board)

@MamaDespik 3 жыл бұрын

I was wondering if you could comment on this: I recently saw a video by Emil Abrahamsson where he suggested a light, twice-a-day workout could be really good for your finger strength/health, but that's in contrast to your twice a week recommendation. Do you think what he's suggesting might have value, or could it be dangerous?

@MamaDespik 3 жыл бұрын

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qaiEfJyizq6YhXk.html

@bobgalwey6115 3 жыл бұрын

You may have found it already but here's a thorough response that's both charitable and critical: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e8yDhruInqvVYo0.html

@sharpetrossian7753 2 жыл бұрын

If you've got golfers elbow in both elbows and hangboarding makes it quite painful, would you recommend hangboarding but keeping your shoulders fully engaged so it takes pressure off the joints?

@LatticeTraining 2 жыл бұрын

This isn’t necessarily going to sort your issues out. Most likely you need to make some changes in training/climbing load and look at the patterns that caused the issue in the first place. The only exception to this might be that IF changing the engagement pattern in your shoulder takes away the pain… then you’re in a pretty good position!

@marcusodell8811 Жыл бұрын

So would the max hang and repeaters count as one session or two ?

@lisa-koschat 2 жыл бұрын

What is your opinion on using rubber bands for assistance?

@bobobobbobobobobob 3 жыл бұрын

Should the advice on half crimp position be modified for someone with hypermobile DIP joints?

@LatticeTraining 3 жыл бұрын

If you’re hypermobile, it’s always worth speaking to someone direct to look at specifics. Particularly important will be training history and injury history.

@wissamharb5684 Жыл бұрын

4th week and I'm already noticing strength gains on the board! I couldn't do 3 finger drags and now I can do it on a 20mm edge (no weight added obviously). Btw is it normal that my half crimp is stronger than my open hand??

@LatticeTraining Жыл бұрын

Normal? Yeah I'd say so. Probably 'more common' is a better phrase because it can vary a lot and it's always normal for that individual .

@TesterAnimal1 3 жыл бұрын

The index finger straight with middle two crimped is called the chisel. Look at the shape the fingers make and compare it to a woodwork chisel.

@Cacovangor 3 жыл бұрын

@@ClimbersCrag always thought Neil Gresham was the man who codified the chisel crimp but suggested half crimp for training to actively load the index finger rather than rely on the friction. Think folks who were confused used the beastmaker app because I know until not too long ago there were exercises which included the chisel grip but the pictures are nonspecific and there are no explanations given.

@ChasenSugimoto 3 жыл бұрын

Will you guys ever consider doing an advanced routine?

@RoadsterDave1990 3 жыл бұрын

As a beginner would you recommended fingerboarding (Beatmaker 1000) as an alternative to the climbing gym. As the gyms are closed, I don't climb at a high grade and regularly hear people claiming you shouldn't fingerboard as a beginner?

@slapthesloper 3 жыл бұрын

Hangboarding can be safe for beginners if you keep the volume low and listen to your body. Side Rant: Idk why everyone uses the beast maker. Has tons of barely useful holds. is symmetric making many holds awkward to use, and lacks many useful edge sizes, especially for beginners. I bought Tension grindstone mk2 and it is simple with every edge being useful and equally usable.

@simonrobbins815 3 жыл бұрын

Fingerboarding is a good supplement to climbing, and as @Rex_T says, also potentially for beginners. I wouldn't say fingerboarding is a good _alternative_ to the climbing gym but if you can't get to the gym... 😉 For novices just climbing as much as possible is more important than training finger strength in isolation.

@Cacovangor 3 жыл бұрын

Maintain some finger strength by hangboarding while unable to get to the gym, and helps to supplement especially as gyms are restricted on open to mean folks who had say three or four sessions a week might only have one or two. Should be nothing you would come close to failing or struggling on until the intent is to increase finger strength, at which point you can figure out training plans and such. As to hangboards, my finger is the beastmaker 2000, but this is because I use the bottom rails as well as the lower monos, the rest of the board is less essential. Highly recommend the lattice edge or triple rung or the metolius prime rib is great as something simple and available and comfortable and inexpensive, the lattice folks obviously have some advantage in training and is more consistent.

@Manarhia 2 жыл бұрын

If I’m bouldering and doing fb at the same sesh, what should go first? Is it better to fb before climbing or after? Thanks for a very useful information)

@mattiti8523 2 жыл бұрын

You should warm up, then fingerboard and finally climb, monitoring how your fingers feel. If you boulder hard first, your hands will be wrecked before you even touch the fingerboard.

@Manarhia 2 жыл бұрын

@@mattiti8523 why lots of climbers do fb after bouldering instead? Im not arguing what you said, just curious

@mattiti8523 2 жыл бұрын

@@Manarhia because climbing is more fun. Most people prefer to climb fresh and have a not so productive fb session rather than a good fb session followed by less intense bouldering.

@Manarhia 2 жыл бұрын

@@mattiti8523 i kinda relate to it, fs is important for sure, but im as a amateur climber learn and progress more at the boulders in every aspects. Later tho, I definitely stick to your advice. Thanks a bunch)

@jamesfleming5422 3 жыл бұрын

For the three reps of 5 on 5 off repeaters, how many sets do you recommend?

@snipermohamad 3 жыл бұрын

3-5 sets of this exercise with about 1-2 mins rest in-between these sets.

@or9767 8 ай бұрын

I'm not beginner but I did a long break so I need to back myself

@Moshhpit1 3 жыл бұрын

What are those wood holds he's demonstrating on and where can I purchase them

@trigeektk 3 жыл бұрын

I don't recognize that exact brand but saw something similar on Etsy recently if you just search for 'micro holds climbing'

@LatticeTraining 3 жыл бұрын

The brand is Ash Climbing Products. Hand made by one of the strongest climbers in Sheffield 💪

@Moshhpit1 3 жыл бұрын

@@LatticeTraining Thank You!!! Those Sheffield climbers are dang strong...probably cause they only get 3 days of good weather a year.

@matthiasstecher9857 3 жыл бұрын

What's the problem with the thumbs up. Since you mentioned it specifically? My half crimb position is almost always with thumbs up...can this create stress in the thumb muscle?

@LatticeTraining 3 жыл бұрын

The issue lies in that we've seen more injuries, over-use issues crop up during the training of this grip position over the years, so we're suggesting that use of it should be heavily monitored and the training methods in this grip being conservative. It's not to say that full crimp is some dangerous grip that everyone should avoid... just one that holds more risk in a "high intensity + failure" setting than others. No issues with the thumb that we've seen so far! :-)

@Cacovangor 3 жыл бұрын

If you mean the thumb wrap over the top, this is because you hyperextend the distal joints of the fingers in trying to “close” the crimp, unless you have exceedingly long thumbs. If you feel more comfortable having the thumb upward versus point off or tucked, those are fine though people often add friction or pinch parts of the hangboard which reduces training load to the arms. If not touching the board or wrapped over a finger, thumb anywhere is fine.

@teeagle79 3 жыл бұрын

Just to check my understanding - you're saying do eitherthe max hangs or repeaters in a session, not both?

@LatticeTraining 3 жыл бұрын

Yeah doing both in a session is often not the best way forward for the majority of the climbing population

@LukeRockCimber 3 жыл бұрын

I keep getting injured on a fingerboard. I think I roll my middle finger slightly when I’m putting them down on the edge and it puts a lot of pressure on the side of the middle joint on my middle finger.... 😕

@Cacovangor 3 жыл бұрын

Check into the type of fingerboard used. Lattice rungs and triple rungs or metolius prime ribs are just long rungs which will better let you set your fingers to load more directly than boards which have preset breadth of edges.

@damn3061 3 жыл бұрын

how would u reccomend to warm up for fingervoarding?

@simonrobbins815 3 жыл бұрын

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/isVdntme1qnekqc.html

@laurinieminen 3 жыл бұрын

Thank you Simon, this was just the warm up video I've been looking for!

@Cacovangor 3 жыл бұрын

I warm up for fingerboarding in part by fingerboarding as well as with extensor bands and assist bands and pressups and a little core work. Gives me an opportunity for maintenance training and the fingerboarding itself allows me to feel how I am for the session. If moving swiftly, can get the heart rate up and everything warm and not have used much energy for the muscles from the fingerboard session. This also tends to be because I use some heavy repeater sets, but a series of max hangs requires a fair amount more active pulling to get warmed and ramped.

@Route_2_V11 3 жыл бұрын

I've noticed that i can hang quitte comfortably from the small bottom edge of the beastmaker 2000 with some extra weight.. however this is in a open hand position and in the half-crimp position i can't hold body weight... Do you guys have any good advice? should I start training specificly for half-crimp? for some extra info: my maximum boulder grade is around 7a(+) and have been bouldering for about ~2 years

@mantis1966 3 жыл бұрын

I'd train your "weakness" ie half crimp, but either use a pulley to take weight off or go to a bigger edge size so that you can do max hangs for 7-10s. Personally, I find my open hand grip weaker than crimping.

@rjmunt Жыл бұрын

My comprehension is not worth much it seems. Were the set numbers : _Session 1 (Max hang)_ 6sets of (10secs Hang, 1 to 2mins Rest), _Session 2 (repeaters)_ Repeat 3 to 5 times : 3 sets of (5secs Hang, 5secs Rest)

@alexgalays910 3 жыл бұрын

Hummm the grip names are a bit off - full crimp is over extended (over 90 degrees) fingers, doesn't matter if the thumb is over or not as that's not what, in itself causes the increased tissue risk. In fact you can even find one particular study that showed that the thumb actually helped stabilize the whole grip, making it less risky (at an equal angle) The more you deviate from 90 degrees, the more forces get exponentially bigger. - chisel is like a half crimp but where your index drops straight instead (sometimes it does it if your grip is tired but I think it's a legitimate grip in itself depending on your finger lengths) so, what you called open crimp I guess

@slushieonrblx 3 жыл бұрын

hey dude I'm not a pro at finger boarding but I can do 3 flips on it you don't have to do an exercise.You just practice makes perfect.

@robin5own5 3 жыл бұрын

first!

@LatticeTraining 3 жыл бұрын

100 Sit ups as a prize for you ;-)

@adamm8462 3 жыл бұрын

@@LatticeTraining Sit ups! My favorite climbing exercise! :)

@thomasditsas976 Жыл бұрын

Am I the only one here that feels that this video is too complicated for beginners? I forgot to bring my notebook... I would prefer a 1 minute video of an exercise to begin and next week a 1 minute video of an exercise to continue and so on.