30 Day Grip Training Experiment - 25,000 reps a week

Рет қаралды 71,802

11 күн бұрын

Have you heard of CARCing? 🤔 It's been around for decades in some form or another, but recently it has become really popular among a number of elite climbers and coaches. Could CARCing be the future?
You may have heard of ARC training, which is short for ‘Aerobic, Respiration and Capillarity’ training. It is to rock climbing what a Zone 2 run is to a mountaineer. It enables climbers to develop the base fitness that climbing performance relies on.
ARC training requires climbing for long periods of time on easy terrain which can be a mental challenge. The term CARCing was defined by Lattice coach Jonny Kydd after he started integrating his ARCing while on long car journeys to work on his project most weeks. This is why the ‘C’ was added, in his bid for efficiency and maximising performance, he swapped climbing practice for light grip training while in the car. 🚗
(⚠️ Please note that we would advise against any form of training whilst driving - see our disclaimer below ⚠️)
But CARCing, due to it being so far from rock climbing practice, is not well established as a form of training.
So, in typical Lattice Training fashion, we set about to devise an experiment to see if CARCing was truly worth the hype! In just 4 weeks, Lattice coach Josh Hadley did over 17 hours of CARCing to see if it improved his endurance… 100, 250 reps later the results are quite incredible. 😲
Will you be adding CARCing to your training routine?
0:43 What is Carcing
3:05 Why Carcing
4:25 My Experiment
5:35 My Testing
7:38 The Results
11:58 Should you Carc?
⚠️ DISCLAIMER: Please note that although we advocate the use of light grip training (and have adopted the term CARCing for this), we do not recommend or advise that you perform CARCing whilst driving any form of vehicle. The contents of this video are for informational purposes only. By watching this video, you agree that any actions you take as a result of the information or content provided are entirely at your own risk and Lattice Training Limited shall not be responsible for the loss, or damage, of or to any property or to any person arising from the same.
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Пікірлер: 175

@LatticeTraining 10 күн бұрын

A bit of extra context to how my endurance improved in these 4 weeks. Day 1. My Critical Force was 31.4%. This is below the average score for 8a/5.13b which is 34% Day 30. My Critical Force was 38.5%. This was above the average score for 8b/5.13d which is 38% These numbers are personalised to my height and gender.

@Miura.Powers 10 күн бұрын

You're on the same Level as Agnus Kille with 38,9%. Go get him Tiger! Well, and you have to match his 98,5% MVC :D This also puts Stefanos 64,5% into perspective....

@LatticeTraining 10 күн бұрын

@@Miura.Powers Haha yeah. If only my fingers were that strong. I'm working on it 😂 I still can't believe Stefano's score. I'd like to test Séb Bouin too!

@Miura.Powers 10 күн бұрын

@@LatticeTraining It's a shame that you guys switched to the force plate for MVC, now i can't compare my self anymore :D yeah, seb would be wild. Can you imagine him being around 40% and we all realize his technique is impeccable? :D

@eman1989z 9 күн бұрын

I'd like to know if it improved your deadhang time, but of course need two hands to verify

@Miura.Powers 9 күн бұрын

@@eman1989z you have his MVC, thats basicly deadhang.

@sebastianflynn1746 10 күн бұрын

This is the kind of content we need. I feel we need more context regarding how effective that increase is relative to other training methods.

@LatticeTraining 10 күн бұрын

Thank for the feedback. I was trying to keep it short where possible but a great point. I'll pin a comment that should add a bit more context to how much my critical force improved by!

@tristanmayfield4851 10 күн бұрын

I'm honored my desk grips made it into the video!

@minihjalte 10 күн бұрын

I love it😂

@coolguyASDQWEFEWFADSFAS 10 күн бұрын

If CARCing doesn't sound good what about something like edging? Since you are mimicking pulling on an edge for long periods of time without quite reaching that high intensity zone where you can't maintain.

@yercules 10 күн бұрын

sus

@LatticeTraining 10 күн бұрын

😂

@plixplux 10 күн бұрын

This is a very good one imho. Another alternative I'd like to suggest would be "Hold Play".

@rundown132 10 күн бұрын

im actively edging while watching this

@Animatedron 10 күн бұрын

😂😂😂

@McAwesomeness3 10 күн бұрын

Might be good to note that you are talking about percentage _points_, increasing your CF from 31.4% to 38.5% is a 22.6% increase!

@sightreader2507 7 күн бұрын

Glad I saw this comment, that was very misleading in the video Now that’s a significant improvement

@climbingclem 10 күн бұрын

I am CARCing while watching this video

@LiftedAdventures 9 күн бұрын

same

@ozamram 10 күн бұрын

Really interesting study and results! Thanks for the effort & great content

@TijmenHatesads 10 күн бұрын

For the injury worries I always wonder how manual labour factors in to training like this. I've never seen a construction worker warm up their wrists and hands: we just showed up (hopefully sober), chugged a cup and a half of coffee with the morning cigarette and grabbed the the tools we needed for the day. Then it's 6-12 hours of laying bricks, drilling holes or tightening nuts. Repeat for 5 days a week, ~45 weeks a year, 30-ish years total with generally little to no finger injuries. Quite some messed up elbow, shoulder and hip joints though. As for a name: call it barking. Barely Aerobic Resistance-training, Kinda.

@00Platypus00 10 күн бұрын

Cars are aid

@rundown132 10 күн бұрын

clothes are aid

@thestruggleclimbingshow 10 күн бұрын

Haha- LFG! c’ARC’ing lyfe 💪. If anyone wants to hear more on this- check out my episode with Ollie from a while back. Thanks for donating your left forearm to science to this Josh!

@sarayahyaie8425 10 күн бұрын

Could you please tell me in which episode it appeared? Please leave a link

@thestruggleclimbingshow 10 күн бұрын

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/peCHgpN9lsfZg30.htmlsi=3LhgKT5wXKqlzLRe

@mikegaunt837 9 күн бұрын

Interesting experiment and fun video, but there are some pretty big statistical issues (I also acknowledge some of the qualifications that were made): Sample size of one - results aren't generalizable. Only one measurement before and after for each test (as presented in video) - no account for variability (in arm strength, tiredness, injury, etc, etc). No randomization or blinding - potential bias. Using one arm as control - assumes both arms react the same. Low statistical power - hard to detect real effects. More participants and multiple measurements would improve reliability. Sorry for being the fun police :(

@paulgaras2606 5 күн бұрын

This is what you would call a case study if it was done by real scientists. The purpose is to cheaply and clearly demonstrate the basis for a hypothesis. Using one side as control is a pretty common method in exercise science. And the actual change observed would qualify as significant, all things considered.

@asmonder6734 10 күн бұрын

Very interesting study, and nicely carried out.

@georgeargiriadis112 10 күн бұрын

Awesome work as always, data driven, insight fueled... A thought on this one though... I think this subject could use a healthy section on repetitive stress injury cause and prevention.

@Tarabulus 10 күн бұрын

"I now have a passionate hatred for this thing!" Sounds like success to me! :)

@andrewhunter6536 10 күн бұрын

Really fun to see a little controlled experiment done like this with someone who has access to testing facilities

@peterkapunkt6783 10 күн бұрын

I am carcing with my right hand since I was a teenager for about once or twice a day. it's noticeably stronger so I guess it works.

@Osted-xe4ym 10 күн бұрын

Bro

@c4un544n5 10 күн бұрын

One part getting stronger, another part getting weaker. Sacrifices have to be made. 🫡

@willbland3307 3 күн бұрын

Great video! How did you schedule this around your training days - would you stack this onto the day you were climbing/hangboarding - or add this into the recovery days?

@MichaelJones-rs5ce 7 күн бұрын

Soo well explained, cheers for quality video! Also would be very interesting to know if this helps with injury prevention in the fingers.

@dsmeier6270 10 күн бұрын

The beauty of actually arcing is getting in movement practice with it. So you get technique practice and endurance gains.

@LatticeTraining 10 күн бұрын

Agreed. Just not practical for everyone. As a new dad I only get to the gym 2x a week at the moment and I like to have a short board session when I go. But I'd like to prepare for sport climbing in the autumn and this method gives me hope.

@chaosflash7 10 күн бұрын

glad theres a good study to back up my decision to avoid these things for my climbing career. ive had a lot of people suggest to me to check these kind of tools out, and ive always turned them away. ultimately, just like everything else, there is no short cut. to get better at the thing you gotta do the thing. goes with art, exercise, and day to day activities. if youre focused on getting better, noticing the things that are holding you back, and actively working on your weaknesses, youll get better. simple as

@Bubblemaker1987 10 күн бұрын

Are you referring to this video as the study? If so, how did this video back up your decision to avoid this method?

@shoqed 10 күн бұрын

what is the study?

@MohamedAshraf-fw1dc 10 күн бұрын

I’d also be interested in your power based measurements after having a power training phase, when the endurance training phase that had come before it included carcing, since the slower twitch fibers work to give the faster twitch fibers more endurance over the long run

@soccutd77 10 күн бұрын

Hey Josh, great video! I know you mentioned intensity quantification is difficult but for people who might want to try to replicate, is there some way you can quantify the amount of force you were squeezing against for an hour? Maybe the grip machine has a value for how much force is needed to close it?

@LatticeTraining 10 күн бұрын

I started on the very lowest setting on this devise. I think it might say 5kg but I doubt that is accurate. Because this is essentially threshold training, the intensity will be need to be very individual. It will matter how strong and how fit you are. And these can be quite independent. For example, Jonny Kydd mentioned at the beginning of the vid is WAY stronger than me. But his relative endurance was half what mine was. So I might be training at a higher resistance than him for the same relative outcome. Something I noticed made a big difference was the cadence too. If I started to get a bit too pumped I just slowed down until it felt right. I think going of perceived intensity is best but it takes some awareness and experience that comes with years of training. A cheap digital feedback tool is the future for this stuff. But I personally don't want an edge, ergonomics is everything when you are using it for 60-90 minutes at time.

@Veloxzr 4 күн бұрын

Now that one of your arms has a significantly higher critical force than the other, it would be interesting to try one of those 2-handed endurance tests on a hangboard and see the difference in feeling between your arms as you go. An instant comparison of what more critical force feels like!

@tomriddle2257 10 күн бұрын

I took a hand trainer with me for a 2 week bus round trip. Got me so bad inflammation that I couldn’t boulder for 2 weeks. 😅

@generalen517 10 күн бұрын

The control hand also getting stronger might be a demonstration of the cross-education effect!

@paulusul 9 күн бұрын

I'm surprised you didn't see and effect of "The Cross-Education Phenomenon" - Cross education is the process whereby training of one limb gives rise to enhancements in the performance of the opposite, untrained limb.

@999moxy 10 күн бұрын

I would like to see if the difficulty to compress the spring was harder, and you did say 5-10 mins at a stronger grip... Would this also train your contact strength, rate of force development etc. After all we don't climb for an hour and we need the muscles to move more blood, so if you recreated a slightly more challenging grip what would the results of that look like?

@nickarci 3 күн бұрын

Thanks for this post! How many KG were you squeezing in your study? Adjustable grip trainers [e.g. 5-60KG] set at the lowest setting (5KG) seem a bit too difficult (to me) for 30 minute ARCing sessions. I must be weak...

@LatticeTraining 3 күн бұрын

It's important you get it really low. Both strength and relative aerobic threshold will need to dictate the intensity you use.

@ItsASquirrel 10 күн бұрын

Judging by the drop in power, I'd guess that the main adaptation you achieved was converting a lot of fast twitch muscle fibers to slow twitch.

@eman1989z 10 күн бұрын

PET-ing, passive endurance training

@korok2619 10 күн бұрын

wouldn't trust that from a cat

@Veloxzr 10 күн бұрын

Regarding the grip trainer being uncomfortable for long periods, I’ve found that using it backwards (fingers on the side your palm is intended to be on) significantly more comfortable, to the point I would say I have no discomfort over long periods :)

@simonwilliams9850 10 күн бұрын

Yes I actually move it back to front and also upside down in each orientation, and with full hand or just fingers. I don't really get though why the 'standard' shape is as it is

@KiINGKaNG 9 күн бұрын

Taping the handles is a game changer

@jdev_fr 10 күн бұрын

Have you tried turning it spring facing you ? I find it more comfortable by fitting better in my palm. But in my case the friction becomes an issue quite early

@LatticeTraining 10 күн бұрын

I did try that. I swapped it around to all 4 orientations quite regularly to change up the position.

@danabartlett9772 10 күн бұрын

Grippers - at least some - are rated in terms of their difficulty, e.g., the popular Captains of Crush grippers, and a #1 COC gripper is rated at 140 pounds. Is the gripper you use rated in this way?

@motherlove8366 5 күн бұрын

The type of gripper he has has a screw at the top and you can tighten or loosen the gripper to your preferred resistance level

@MacawiSioux-z3v 7 күн бұрын

For people reading this review, it's okay, it's normal to feel lonely sometimes, if you're going through tough times, keep trying, but never give up, I wish you great success in your health, love, and happiness!

@sarayahyaie8425 10 күн бұрын

I have a question, was Josh said in the video that one should not pump on the forearm while doing the activity? Or I misunderstood? Because I think continuous squeezing for an hour leads to pump

@LatticeTraining 4 күн бұрын

Yes that is correct. Do NOT get pumped. This is comparable to a runner going for a light/recover run.

@KiINGKaNG 9 күн бұрын

I found taping the handles with climbing tape mostly solves the comfort thing

@stanante 10 күн бұрын

Is there a way to gauge the statistical significance of these changes? I assume you take the same data for yourself semi regularly. How do the changes compare in general? Or perhaps sig levels aren't even relevant given how variable your training might be long-term?

@LatticeTraining 10 күн бұрын

I think we'd need multiple trials or multiple subjects to calculate statistical significance. Maybe we could determine effect size? But I think it would be misleading in a way, to suggest this is rigorously scientific. I have done this test a fair amount. But it's quite a brutal test so I have gone over a year without testing. If it helps, the past couple of years I've hovered around the same level of endurance as my pre-test. With work life and being new Dad I've mostly bouldered and not been worried about getting fit. I've been a bit higher (CF) in the past, about 34%. But never as high as 38%. And my previous 34% peak was during a season of sport climbing.

@shoqed 10 күн бұрын

why do you ask for statistical significance if you clearly don't fully understand what it means? Statistical "significance" is not the be all end all even in a scientific studies and it's based on an arbitrary threshold of one of several popular methods of statistical analysis

@tibslikewiser863 10 күн бұрын

Does it translate to climbing though is it effective i just started getting into armlifts and pinchblocks maybe i can add this too

@HunterCottrell 10 күн бұрын

I've tried this in the past but found it to be hard to keep focus on over time. I've theorized that using a TENS unit on your forearm could have the same impact, but completely passively and no attention required after you apply the pads. If you can set the intensity to contract your forearm muscles correctly I think it could work? Feel free to try it on your other arm and even things back out! 🤣

@politykanazw2622 9 күн бұрын

"Jorking it" I've been jorking it for 17 hours

@k.a.8725 10 күн бұрын

let's call it pumping

@Berggorillas Күн бұрын

What is the training protocol? How many sets & reps per day? what is the resistance level?

@breadanrice 10 күн бұрын

I know this as "grease the groove" by repeatedly doing lower intensity motions

@Deus0tiosus 10 күн бұрын

When I started climbing, my fingers looked really weak. I kind of came up with a similar concept, squeezing a grip trainer around 1000 times per day, most days, and noticed a significant improvement in my climbing. From climbing 5b to my first 6a top-ropes. Intuition says this is more of a thing that would benefit beginners, though.

@immadness4420 9 күн бұрын

i would say for beginners, go climbing and no training, maybee some pull ups. If you go from 5b to 6a only with your fingers then work on your technic and footwork and you will go from 6a to 6c lead. I got from 5b to 7b in two years without any Hangboard Session or anything. Now i'm at this point where i need to work for fingerstrenght etc.

@TXEENT 9 күн бұрын

I prefer volume to hangboard training, but maybe Ive reached my limits without specific training or better technique. Usually end up injuring a finger or wrist whenever I try to push beyond v8 range. Im curious to give this a try, its easy to fit during the day.

@IAMDIMITRI 10 күн бұрын

But if you do 1h at the time, 3 times a week on your left arm. Doesn't that mean your forearms will be equal in strength and endurance?

@gavyndame3700 10 күн бұрын

Fantastic video I’ve got to work out of town and I have to drive for 5 hours so I know what I’ll be doing while driving

@MaartenHoutzager 10 күн бұрын

🙌

@garetwebster5002 4 күн бұрын

Can you do it again with grip holding instead of rapid squeezing?

@InspiredPhotons 10 күн бұрын

I've used a gyro ball while watching tv with a similar idea in mind - might keep the loads more balanced across flexors, extensors, etc...way more enjoyable and comfortable than a gripper. Powerball Titan is a good one. So if you get tired of CARCing you can play with your powerballs 😆

@LatticeTraining 10 күн бұрын

I remember playing with one of these years ago. Are they not quite noisy? Maybe they have got better since then.

@InspiredPhotons 10 күн бұрын

@@LatticeTraining This a is great point - they can be noisy when you rap them up to higher RPMs. This is a good argument for getting the Titan which is heavy and has a lot more resistance...staying below the lactate threshold with that one requires slower RPMs...also nicely built and I do remember it being noticeably more quite when I first upgraded to it from a prior one I had. I had a plastic one that eventually cracked...downside of metal one is it's not gonna be robust to dropping (bend and throw off balance etc). All that said, still gonna make some noise.

@patriksund 7 күн бұрын

I don't know how the RFD measurement works, but just looking at the data for the 'after' for the carcing arm it's completely flat in the start compared to the other ones and seems very similar once it starts rising. Could it be that the measurement started a bit too early? It looks to me like the whole graph should be shifted to the left.

@LatticeTraining 7 күн бұрын

Good spot. I did see this too and double checked. I believe it is just the graph that is wrong and the measurement was taken from the first upward inflection.

@RM-xq7gf 10 күн бұрын

difference of open hand and open crimp?

@OrionDuCros 4 күн бұрын

Can you test gooning next?

@bernhardbobo1188 10 күн бұрын

I have some TheraPutty on my Desk for playing around and squeezing in calls and so on. THis is quite comfortable, as it is not a rigid training device. Maybe a more comfortable way for "Carcing"

@gregoryb94 10 күн бұрын

I put an old sock around one side of the trainer, so my palm doesn't get red so easily.

@nolanbanfitch5070 10 күн бұрын

Carpal tunnel speedrun

@rundown132 10 күн бұрын

100% lol, one way ticket to overuse city

@LatticeTraining 10 күн бұрын

Yep I had this concern. I don't recommend jumping in at 3 hours a week. And I think more appropriate tools probably exist. Rice bucket? But I think if you build up slowly anything is possible. I like the anecdote from a builder in the comments. My volume was nothing compared to what some builders, bricklayer or scaffolders do. Our grip is very adaptable.

@mikafull 6 күн бұрын

If you use a Ring, you can train both arms at the same time :)

@johannielsen463 10 күн бұрын

I'd be curious if you could do the same type of intensity but with a rotating circuit of hand movements to avoid some of the repeptive stress...like have grippers, finger extensors, and a putty ball...I have had some irritation doing the carc'ing with the band is why I ask...or perhaps such a circuit might even yield more improved results it is relates to on the wall climbing as it is more varied...unfortunately/obviously adding more implements makes it less simple to fit into the week.

@LatticeTraining 10 күн бұрын

I agree more thought needs to go into the tools used. I actually want to try it again with a simple foam ball. Like a stress ball. It feels like it would support all the joints and load the hand evenly.

@filmfortressHD 8 күн бұрын

He chose the right arm for the controll arm because it was already ahead in strength. Now he is balanced..

@LatticeTraining 7 күн бұрын

The aim was not to build strength, it was to build endurance.

@biggussconnus 9 күн бұрын

Seems like a lot of squeezing a grip. I have one of those orange 30kg grips. I squeeze it. I found it hard to start, now I can crush it. I wasn't even able to entertain pinching it closed and now am close. --++ Do you think having a manual job might help. Being on the tools all day?? That is like hours of low intensity work

@yercules 10 күн бұрын

It should just be called ''arcing", "hand triggering" or "pistol gripping". Can't use edging, which is already taken. Just look it up in the urban dictionary.

@bjdfit 9 күн бұрын

Passive Aerobic Respiratory Capillary PARCing

@disgruntledwookie369 9 күн бұрын

The thumbnail of this video is freaking me out. How is that dude's thumb bent like that??

@TheValinov 10 күн бұрын

*pumping iron* Like the arnie movie? when i bought these things, when i started climbing, i felt like it made my sessions worse, because i somewhat overtrained. in my opinion these training devices doesn't transfer to any griptype, not even pinches. i also bought one with single finger "buttons". this was even worse, the fingers were quite in pain. hangboard still seems to be the king.

@LatticeTraining 10 күн бұрын

Yes totally agree. Not very useful for training climbing strength. But the intention here is to develop a dense capillary bed and more mitochondria, to enhance blood flow and aerobic energy production. This improves recovery and endurance. So you'd only likely notice a difference on long sport climbs or during rest periods.

@woevo 10 күн бұрын

Me gustaria probarlo para ver y testar si hay mejoras o perdidas en mi y tener mas ejemplos. Si podrias comentarme como hacerlo un poco mas especifico. Gracias y que grandes video subis.

@LatticeTraining 10 күн бұрын

What I did was ~1 hour, 3x per week. Nothing more complex than that.

@woevo 10 күн бұрын

@@LatticeTraining perfecto sabes decirme la carga que tenia el aparato que utilizas. Es que como no se ingles, me entero poco y como lo subtitulos no son completamente perfecto pues... jajaja pero sino me enterado mal sigues con tus rutinas normales pero añadiendo esto verdad?

@woevo 10 күн бұрын

Y muchas gracias por contestar tan rapidoo!

@Adumbfartzarano 10 күн бұрын

Blood flow work

@KarstenThoughts 10 күн бұрын

How can you isolate the effect to this and not other training?

@LatticeTraining 10 күн бұрын

My right arm acted as the control and did zero Carcing. Other than the Carcing on my left, all other training remained the same. So the change in endurance in my left arm can fairly confidently be attributed to the Carcing. Can you think of any confounding variables?

@KarstenThoughts 4 күн бұрын

@@LatticeTraining 1. The critical force test itself has variance on the day. It involves the shoulder to some degree so a simple difference in shoulder fatigue/strength could result in the delta. 2. The critical force test has variance like any other test. With only a few data points you have no idea if the improvement is within standard variance. 3. Climbers normally have differences in strength between sides like all other athletes. This can change especially if someone is at the mercy of a gym. It's entirely possible over the block that you biased a side for both strength and endurance oriented climbing. 4. It's possible that more volume prevented some sort of detraining in the test hand, which is different from improvement. 5. There's always the chance that the good result was simply due to random chance.

@ccord499 10 күн бұрын

PARCing, because you can do it while taking a walk in the park.

@tannerkemp4046 10 күн бұрын

Muscle endurance training

@SpartiateLunaire 4 күн бұрын

New name proposal : Squeezemaxxing

@bullydungeon9631 10 күн бұрын

I hate the word carcing so much. Im not really sure what the take away from this video is. This feels like saying if you do 16000 steps a day instead of 8000 your legs indurance will increase a bit, this feels intuitive.

@pedrohanekamp5968 3 күн бұрын

Ure supposed to use the curve part of the gripper on your palm not on the fingers

@Lifegrow 10 күн бұрын

You were holding it backwards, the inwards curve is ergonomically designed for your thumb and the straight bar keeps your fingers in alignment. It's over, re-do the whole damn thing :P

@LatticeTraining 10 күн бұрын

Haha! I did actually swap it facing both ways and upside down both ways. It kept things a bit more interesting while doing it for 60 mins.

@Lifegrow 10 күн бұрын

@@LatticeTraining Try horizontal (like a motor bike) with your pinky next to the spring - most comfortable imo. Great vids btw.

@DinoTamer23 10 күн бұрын

1 hour at a time seems excessive. Would be interested in seeing your results if you had just done 20-30 mins, 3 times per week.

@LatticeTraining 10 күн бұрын

Yes I totally agree. I just jumped in that high to see if it would work but not to give advice. We see similar approaches in research because they want to show a large effect size or reach statistical significance. The research that follows should then try to answer how it can be made practical to everyday users or athletes. Like finding the minimum effective dose.

@LemonLimeFlavoured 10 күн бұрын

do edging next

@Negrurafresca 9 күн бұрын

@LatticeTraining why didn’t you use your first critical force test to know that you needed to stay under 31%bw (let’s say 20kg) and use a 20kg grip tool or something and just replicate the 5s on 3s off or what ever so you assure you’re staying right under the aerobic threshold??? And I get that it would be a pain but wouldn’t it be better to use like the edge with the load cell to measure the load and keep it under 30% bw??? Finally I think it should be called EDGING LOL

@Negrurafresca 9 күн бұрын

Also you are doing your critical force test as a yielding isometric but training concentrically. Maybe a better insight into the muscles would be a concentric critical force test. Just saying lol

@LatticeTraining 9 күн бұрын

This is anecdotal but I much preferred short concentric muscle actions. It feels like it gets the blood flowing better. And it's possible shear stress from blood flow is important for angiogenesis. I am not sure any of the gripping devices are that accurate. My device said it was on 5kg resistance but I didn't believe it. Also critical force would approximate lactate threshold 2, and I wanted to train below lactate threshold 1. Which the CF test can't determine. If I could determine LT1 I could use a tindeq to train at the right threshold but I would not be able to do it dog walking etc and it all becomes less practical.

@Negrurafresca 9 күн бұрын

@@LatticeTraining oh yeah very true!! Maybe you should device a test like runners do and get blood samples of your forearm to measure the LT1 under 2mmol of lactic acid! Or something! Thanks for your reply I love your content! Very insightful! ❤️

@LatticeTraining 9 күн бұрын

@@Negrurafresca This has actually been done. Unfortunately because the blood sample is taken from the capillary bed it only measures whole blood lactate. And if we isolate exercise to the forearm the change in lactate is quite small and hard to define a clear upwards inflection point i.e. the threshold. I think using NIRS might be helpful here? But it needs some research to validate the method in climbers. Maybe a future video!?!

@janjaggy 10 күн бұрын

Is this be similar to 'greasing the groove', a tactic used by people who go for pull-up and push-up quantity records?

@LatticeTraining 10 күн бұрын

I'm not sure to be honest. I've heard the GtG tactic can be used for max strength but at very low volume. And GtG is also used for skill training like hand stands. So I always thought GtG was about low volume, high frequency. For me the Carcing was about doing loads of volume at a frequency of 3x per week.

@ryandelaney5842 9 күн бұрын

Wait, you hang board twice a day? You're not doing no-hang block training? You guys just put out video of you with the thumbnail throwing a hang board in the trash. (not literally, claro)

@tommeyer3871 10 күн бұрын

Since CARCing is particularly useful for people too BUSY to ARC on the wall I suggest BARCing as a better name 😂

@AlchemyInstruments 10 күн бұрын

I wonder if the amount of time I spend playing guitar counts haha

@LatticeTraining 10 күн бұрын

Interesting! I'd imagine your hand on the fret board gets worked harder. Have you ever done an endurance test on each hand to see if there is a difference?

@AlchemyInstruments 10 күн бұрын

@@LatticeTraining well because of the techniques I happen to use playing really technical music I actually use every finger on both hands quite a lot! I haven't. What test(s) do you recommend?

@VolodymyrBarna 9 күн бұрын

Now do the same with your other hand. I wonder how much it would replicate the experiment.

@owninggreendragsdude 9 күн бұрын

Anyone else up CARCing at 3am?

@crispycrimps865 10 күн бұрын

You're hangboarding 2 times a week? I thought you were into no hangs? Doesn't one of your videos show you throwing the hangboard I'm the trash? (Not literally I know)

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing 10 күн бұрын

Hey guys! I think you missed a 0 on the title

@lostleviathan2352 10 күн бұрын

I think they may actually have just put the comma in the wrong spot

@LatticeTraining 10 күн бұрын

Thanks! Updated!

@CrispyCrimpsClimbing 10 күн бұрын

@@LatticeTraining Thanks for always making amaizing videos!

@jackmilo019 10 күн бұрын

who up carcing they shit rn?

@bendtbendt1 10 күн бұрын

I don’t think your comparison of RFD is valid. No change should correspond to pulling 80% of your original max force not the new one

@nichope9 10 күн бұрын

Just my opinion here ~What i find misleading is the why a boulderer should want more low intensity endurance not movement specific while his energy systems will be mainly anaerobic. Improve aerobic capacity will for sure improve the way metabolites are expelled, but how such a low intensity repetetive movement can bring consistent changes on a trained person. When you said peripheral adaptations i don't get why you don't prioritize the type of fiber you recruit and the different results you may obtain training a lot fiber I instead of IIa IIx, specially in the long term. I would add as well that rest is really crucial in this sport and considering 3 hours in 1 week are a lot for the average climber, if Carcing is put in between sessions the risk for injuries would increase a lot with not so much gaining. To make everything simple my question is "if a 200m sprinter doesn't walk 3 hours a week thinking to improve his endurance, why a boulderer should carc?"

@DunkelBrauer 10 күн бұрын

Let's call it NAPping (Non-specific Aerobic Pinching or Non-specific Anecdotally Proven). Or BARCing (brain melting ARCing).

@MrWill830 10 күн бұрын

Lads, I found the perfect tool to train narrow pinches and marble pinches, I've decided I'll call it "edging"

@arselihp 10 күн бұрын

1 vote for "karqing"--same pronunciation but more enjoyable spelling

@average-team-kid 10 күн бұрын

But that removes all the reasoning behind the name. It's ARCing in the car

@arselihp 10 күн бұрын

@@average-team-kid Yes! Factual. But the original "carcing" name is intentionally silly, might as well have some fun with it.

@jimvano 9 күн бұрын

ARMing = Adaptive Repetitive Motion

@oliviervandeschilde9059 8 күн бұрын

I call it losing. Because you do Lots Of Squeezes and also you lose your sanity.

@telkmx 10 күн бұрын

now do the same with the rice bucket

@LatticeTraining 10 күн бұрын

Yes good call! I think this would work well. But maybe not as easy to take on a dog walk 😂

@telkmx 10 күн бұрын

@@LatticeTraining Haha yeah time to suffer even more. Its kind of restricting its true

@larryseibold4287 8 күн бұрын

Car-pulling. it has a ring to it. Note: I would think many short maximal pulls on an immovable object (edge block or steering wheel) with long rests would have different results than 10s of thousands of reps.

@dangarbutt5210 10 күн бұрын

Maybe the increase in strength could be to do with the carcing acting as a bit of active recovery?

@LatticeTraining 10 күн бұрын

Possibly. But I am not training that hard at the moment. Being a new dad means less time in the gym. A similar hypothesis could be better fitness means faster recovery from the strength training I was going. So better quality training overall.